7 Sìpíng Getting into the rhythms of village life with a homestay.
History
By the 7th and 8th centuries, Hángzhōu, Níngbō and Shàoxīng had emerged as three of China’s most important trading centres and ports. Fertile Zhèjiāng was part of the great southern granary from which food was shipped to the depleted areas of the north via the Grand Canal (Dà Yùnhé), which commences here. Growth accelerated when the Song dynasty moved court to Hángzhōu in the 12th century after invasion from the north. Due to intense cultivation, northern Zhèjiāng has lost a lot of natural vegetation and much of it is now flat, featureless plain.
8Getting There & Around
Zhèjiāng is well connected to the rest of the country by plane, high-speed train and bus. The provincial capital Hángzhōu is effortlessly reached by train from Shànghǎi and Sūzhōu, and serves as a useful first stop in Zhèjiāng. Hángzhōu and Pǔtuóshān are both served by nearby airports.
The province is quite small and getting around is straightforward. High-speed trains service hubs like Hángzhōu and Jīnhuá, from where you can get buses to surrounding villages, and Níngbō, the jumping-off point for sea journeys to Pǔtuóshān.
Hángzhōu 杭州
%571 / Pop 9 million
One of China’s most enduringly popular holiday spots, Hángzhōu’s (杭州) dreamy West Lake panoramas and fabulously green hills can easily tempt you into long sojourns. Eulogised by poets and applauded by emperors, the lake has intoxicated the Chinese imagination for aeons. Kept spotlessly clean by armies of street sweepers and litter collectors, its scenic vistas draw you into a classical Chinese watercolour of willow-lined banks, mist-covered hills and the occasional shíkùmén (stone-gate house) and old lǐlòng (residential lane).
Wonderful as it is, Hángzhōu's charms are by no means limited to West Lake scenery – delve further into the city to climb ancient pagodas and discover blissfully quiet temples. Away from the tourist drawcards exists a charismatic and buzzing city in its own right, with wide pedestrian walkways to wander, an unpretentious and exciting food scene, upbeat nightlife and increasingly cosmopolitan population.
Hángzhōu
1Top Sights
1West LakeD3
1Sights
2Bǎochù PagodaC1
3Bàopǔ Taoist TempleC1
4Bǎoshí ShānB1
5Big Buddha TempleC1
6China Silk MuseumD6
7Húqìngyú Táng Chinese Medicine MuseumF4
8Jìngcí TempleC6
9Léifēng PagodaC6
10Mausoleum of General Yue FeiB2
11Mid-Lake PavilionC3
12No 1 ParkE3
13Qīnghéfāng Old StreetE4
14Qūyuàn GardenA3
15Red Carp PondB5
16Seal Engravers SocietyB3
17Su Xiaoxiao's TombB3
18Sunrise TerraceB1
19Tàizǐwān ParkB6
20Three Pools Mirroring the MoonC5
21Xiǎoyíng IslandC4
22Zhèjiāng Provincial MuseumC3
23Zhōngshān ParkB3
2Activities, Courses & Tours
24West Lake Cruise BoatsE3
4Sleeping
25Crystal Orange HotelD5
26Four Seasons Hotel HángzhōuA3
27Hofang International Youth HostelF5
28In Lake Youth HostelE4
29Mingtown Youth HostelD4
30Tea Boutique HotelB1
31West Lake 7 Service ApartmentsF2
5Eating
32CarbonD1
33Grandma's HomeE3
34Green Tea RestaurantE3
35Nan Fang Mi ZongE3
36Northwest Family RestaurantF3
37Xiexie Tea & CoffeeD5
38Yīhé Zángxiāng Beef NoodlesE3
39Zhongshan South Road Food StreetF5
6Drinking & Nightlife
40Eudora StationD4
41JZ ClubE3
42Midtown BreweryE1
7Shopping
43Wushan Lu Night MarketF2
8Information
44Bank of China – Laodong LuE4
45Bank of China – Yanan LuE2
46Hángzhōu Tourist Information CentreC6
47Industrial & Commercial Bank of ChinaE2
48Zhèjiāng University First Affiliated HospitalG2
Transport
49Boats to Xiǎoyíng IslandE3
50Bus Ticket OfficeG4
51Small Boat HireE2
52Train Ticket OfficeE3
1Sights
oWest LakeLAKE
(西湖, Xīhú MAP GOOGLE MAP )
The very definition of classical beauty in China, West Lake is utterly mesmerising: pagoda-topped hills rise over willow-lined waters as boats drift slowly through a vignette of leisurely charm. Walkways, perfectly positioned benches, parks and gardens around the banks of the lake offer a thousand and one vantage points for visitors to admire the faultless scenery.
Originally a lagoon adjoining the Qiántáng River, the lake didn’t come into existence until the 8th century, when the governor of Hángzhōu had the marshy expanse dredged. As time passed, the lake’s splendour was gradually cultivated: gardens were planted, pagodas built, and causeways and islands were constructed from dredged silt.
Celebrated poet Su Dongpo himself had a hand in the lake’s development, constructing the Sū Causeway (苏堤; Sūdī) during his tenure as local governor in the 11th century. It wasn’t an original idea – the poet-governor Bai Juyi had already constructed the Bái Causeway (白堤; Báidī) some 200 years earlier. Lined by willow, plum and peach trees, today the traffic-free causeways with their half-moon bridges make for restful outings.
Lashed to the northern shores by the Bái Causeway is Gūshān Island (孤山岛; Gūshān Dǎo), the largest island in the lake and the location of the Zhèjiāng Provincial Museum (浙江省博物馆; Zhèjiāng Shěng Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 25 Gushan Lu; 孤山路25号 audioguide ¥10; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun) and Zhōngshān Park (中山公园; Zhōngshān Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ). The island’s buildings and gardens were once the site of Emperor Qianlong’s 18th-century holiday palace and gardens. Also on the island is the intriguing Seal Engravers Society (西泠印社; Xīlíng Yìnshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-5.30pm), though it was closed for renovations at the time of research, dedicated to the ancient art of carving the name seals (chops) that serve as personal signatures.
The northwest of the lake is fringed with the lovely Qūyuàn Garden (曲院风荷; Qūyuàn Fēnghé MAP GOOGLE MAP ), a collection of gardens spread out over numerous islets and renowned for their fragrant spring lotus blossoms. Near Xīlíng Bridge (Xīlíng Qiáo) is Su Xiaoxiao's Tomb (苏小小墓; Sū Xiǎoxiǎo Mù MAP GOOGLE MAP ), a 5th-century courtesan who died of grief while waiting for her lover to return. It’s been said that her ghost haunts the area and the tinkle of the bells on her gown are audible at night.
The smaller island in the lake is Xiǎoyíng Island (小瀛洲; Xiǎoyíng Zhōu MAP GOOGLE MAP ), where you can look over at Three Pools Mirroring the Moon (三潭印月; Sāntán Yìnyuè MAP GOOGLE MAP ), three small towers in the water on the south side of the island; each has five holes that release shafts of candlelight on the night of the mid-autumn festival. From Lesser Yíngzhōu Island, you can gaze over to Red Carp Pond (花港观鱼; Huāgǎng Guānyú MAP GOOGLE MAP ), home to a few thousand red carp.
Impromptu opera singing, ballroom dancing and other cultural activities often take place around the lake, and if the weather’s fine, don’t forget to earmark the east shore for sunset over West Lake photos.
It's hardly needed, but musical dancing fountains burst into action at regular intervals throughout the night and day, close to Lakeview Park.
Crowds can be a real issue here, especially on public days off when it can seem as if every holidaymaker in China is strolling around the lake. Escape the jam of people by getting out and about early in the morning – also the best time to spot the odd serene lakeside taichi s
ession.
The best way to get around the lake is by bike or on foot.
West Lake, Hángzhōu, Zhèjiāng | ZHAO JIAN KANG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
oDragon Well Tea VillageVILLAGE
(龙井问茶, Lóngjǐng Wènchá GOOGLE MAP ; h8am-5.30pm)
The lush, green scenery around this tea village up in the hills southwest of West Lake makes for a wonderful break from the bustle of Hangzhou. Visitors can wander through the village and up into the tea plantations themselves. During the spring, which is the best time to visit, straw-hatted workers can be seen picking the tea leaves by hand in the fields, and baskets of the fresh leaves are left out to dry in the sun back in the village.
Sunrise TerraceVIEWPOINT
(初阳台, Chūyáng Tái MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Vantage point on Bǎoshí Shān.
oLíngyǐn TempleBUDDHIST SITE
(灵隐寺, Língyǐn Sì GOOGLE MAP ; Lingyin Lu, 灵隐路 grounds ¥45, temple ¥30; h7am-5pm)
Hángzhōu’s most famous Buddhist temple, Língyǐn Temple was originally built in AD 326, but has been destroyed and rebuilt no fewer than 16 times. During the Five Dynasties (AD 907–960) about 3000 monks lived here. The Hall of the Four Heavenly Kings is astonishing, with its four vast guardians and an ornate cabinet housing Milefo (the future Buddha). The Great Hall contains a magnificent 20m-high statue of Siddhartha Gautama (Sakyamuni), sculpted from 24 blocks of camphor wood in 1956 and based on a Tang dynasty original.
Behind the giant statue is a startling montage of Guanyin surrounded by 150 small figures, including multiple luóhàn (arhat), in a variety of poses. The earlier hall collapsed in 1949, crushing the Buddhist statues within, so it was rebuilt and the statue conceived. The Hall of the Medicine Buddha is beyond.
The walk up to the temple skirts the flanks of Fēilái Peak (飞来峰; Fēilái Fēng; Peak Flying from Afar), magically transported here from India according to legend. The Buddhist carvings (all 470 of them) lining the riverbanks and hillsides and tucked away inside grottoes date from the 10th to 14th centuries. To get a close-up view of the best carvings, including the famed ‘laughing’ Maitreya Buddha, follow the paths along the far (east) side of the stream.
There are several other temples near Língyǐn Temple that can be explored, including Yǒngfú Temple and Tāoguāng Temple.
Behind Língyǐn Temple is the Northern Peak (Běi Gāofēng), which can be scaled by cable car (up/down/return ¥30/20/40). From the summit there are sweeping views across the lake and city.
oJìngcí TempleBUDDHIST SITE
(净慈寺, Jìngcí Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Nanshan Lu, 南山路 ¥10; h6am-5.15pm summer, 6.30am-4.45pm winter)
The serene yet monastically active Chan (Zen) Jìngcí Temple was originally built in AD 954 and is now fully restored. The splendid first hall contains the massive, foreboding Heavenly Kings and an elaborate red and gold case encapsulating Milefo (the future Buddha) and Weituo (protector of the Buddhist temples and teachings). The main hall – known as the Great Treasure Hall – contains a vast seated effigy of Sakyamuni (Buddha).
No 1 ParkPARK
(一公园, Yī Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Hubin Lu, 湖滨路 )
Cruise boats across West Lake depart from here to Xiǎoyíng Island.
Hángzhōu Botanical GardenGARDENS
(杭州植物园, Hángzhōu Zhíwùyuán GOOGLE MAP ; www.hzbg.cn; 1 Taoyuan Ling, 桃源岭1号 ¥10; h7am-5pm)
With huge tracts of towering bamboo, flowering magnolias and other delightful plants and trees, these vast gardens make for lovely walks to the northwest of West Lake. Sprawling over 245 hectares, they're just as well kept as you'd expect in a city that prides itself on its beautiful environment.
Mid-Lake PavilionLANDMARK
(湖心亭, Húxīn Tíng MAP GOOGLE MAP )
A Ming dynasty Chinese pavilion sits on this small islet in the West Lake. Many of the cruise boats pass close by it, but it's not accessible to tourists.
Bǎoshí ShānHILL
(宝石山 MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Bǎoshí Hill is one of the loveliest places in Hángzhōu to take a hike. Numerous well kept paths wind through the forest, taking you up steep slopes and past pagodas, West Lake viewpoints and a temple. A perfect escape from the city bustle.
Tàizǐwān ParkPARK
(太子湾公园, Tàizǐwān Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Nanshan Lu, 南山路 )
This exquisite and serene park just south of the Sū Causeway off West Lake offers quiet walks among lush woodland, ponds, lakes, rose gardens and lawns along a wooden walkway. Just take off and explore. It’s heavenly in spring, with gorgeous beds of tulips and daffodils and flowering trees.
China National Silk MuseumMUSEUM
(中国丝绸博物馆, Zhōngguó Sīchóu Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.chinasilkmuseum.com; 73-1 Yuhuangshan Lu, 玉皇山路73-1号 h9am-5pm Tue-Sun, noon-5pm Mon)F
This vast museum is devoted to all things silk, covering fashion, craftsmanship and the historic Silk Road in great depth. Extensive galleries showcase the evolution of the qípáo (Chinese dress) from the 1920s onward, as well as some fabulously ornate European gowns from the 1600-1800s.
The history of the Chinese silk trade and its influence on the relationship between East and West is also explored in a series of exhibitions.
Húqìngyú Táng Chinese Medicine MuseumMUSEUM
(中药博物馆, Zhōngyào Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 95 Dajing Xiang, 大井巷95号 ¥10; h8.30am-5pm)
The Huqing Yutang Chinese Medicine Museum has an actual dispensary and clinic adjoined to the museum. Originally established by the Qing dynasty merchant Hu Xueyan in 1874, the medicine shop and factory retain the typical style of the period. The museum itself is housed in a lovely, musty old building with a bright courtyard full of TCM plants.
Displays range from the fascinating, such as an ancient instruction book for medicine-making and old medical implements, to the surreal – including a giant rhino model.
Léifēng PagodaPAGODA
(雷峰塔, Léifēng Tǎ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Nanshan Lu, 南山路 adult/child ¥40/20; h8am-8.30pm Mar-Nov, to 5.30pm Dec-Feb)
Topped with a golden spire, the eye-catching Léifēng Pagoda can be climbed for fine views of the lake. The original pagoda, built in AD 977, collapsed in 1924. During renovations in 2001, Buddhist scriptures written on silk were discovered in the foundations, along with other treasures. There's now an elevator and escalator to help visitors reach the top.
Six Harmonies PagodaPAGODA
(六和塔, Liùhé Tǎ 16 Zhijiang Lu, 之江路16号 grounds ¥20, grounds & pagoda ¥30; h6am-6.30pm)
Three kilometres southwest of West Lake, an enormous rail and road bridge spans the Qiántáng River. Close by rears up the 60m-high octagonal Six Harmonies Pagoda, first built in AD 960. The stout pagoda also served as a lighthouse, and was said to possess magical powers to halt the 6.5m-high tidal bore that thunders up Qiántáng River. You can climb the tight stairs of the pagoda, while behind stretches a charming walk through terraces dotted with sculptures, bells (¥10 buys you six chimes and a lucky bracelet), shrines and inscriptions.
Qīnghéfāng Old StreetSTREET
(清河坊历史文化街, Qīnghéfāng Lìshǐ Wénhuà Jiē MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Hefang Jie, 河坊街 )
At the south end of Zhongshan Zhonglu is this touristy, crowded and bustling pedestrian street, with makeshift puppet theatres, teahouses and gift and curio stalls, selling everything from stone teapots to boxes of lóngxūtáng (龙须糖; dragon whiskers sweets), ginseng and silk. It’s also home to several traditional medicine shops, including the Húqìngyú Táng Chinese Medicine Museum, which is an actual dispensary and clinic.
Big Buddha TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(大佛寺, Dàfó Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP )
The remains of this historic temple on the western slope of Bǎoshí Shān north of West Lake only run to a weather-beaten and dilapidated vast stone head of a Buddha; all the temple halls have vanished. It's easy to
miss, unless you're hunting for it, as it lies behind a residential building and can only be seen from the top of the steps that lie along the hill's slope.
Bǎochù PagodaBUDDHIST SITE
(保俶塔, Bǎochù Tǎ MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Visiting this charming pagoda overlooking West Lake makes for a lovely walk in the hills north of the lake.
Mausoleum of General Yue FeiTEMPLE
(岳庙, Yuè Fēi Mù MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Beishan Lu; ¥25; h7.30am-5.30pm)
Commander of the southern Song armies, General Yue Fei (1103–42) led successful battles against northern Jurchen invaders in the 12th century. Despite initial successes, he was recalled to the Song court, where he was executed, along with his son, after being deceived by the treacherous prime minister Qin Hui. In 1163, Song emperor Gao Zong exonerated Yue Fei and had his corpse reburied here.
DAILY COSTS
Budget: Less than ¥200
ADorm bed: ¥60–80
ABowl of noodles: ¥8–15
ABus tickets: ¥2
AEntry to sights: ¥20–30
Midrange: ¥200-800
ADouble room in a hotel: ¥300–800
AMeal in local restaurant: ¥60–120
AShort taxi trip: ¥11–20
AWest Lake boat trip: ¥70
Top end: More than ¥800
ASuite in top hotel: ¥2000
AMeal with wine: ¥500
APrivate boat hire: ¥150
4Sleeping
Book well ahead in the summer months, at weekends and during the busy holiday periods. Room prices at hostels and some hotels get a significant weekend hike.
Lonely Planet China Page 50
