The Māzǔ Temple (妈祖庙; Māzǔ Miào) on the knoll in the village is the local centre of worship. It’s dedicated to the goddess of seafarers and turns very lively on the 29th day of the first lunar calendar month, the birthday of the protector. All the women in the village turn out in traditional costumes to join in the annual Māzǔ procession.
A taxi from Quánzhōu bus station is about ¥25.
Cǎo’ān Manichaean Temple
Cǎo’ān Manichaean TempleTEMPLE
(草庵摩尼教寺, Cǎo’ān Móníjiào Sì Huábiǎo Hill, 华表山 admission ¥20; h8am-6pm)
This quirky temple is dedicated to Manichaeism, a religion originating in Persia in the 3rd century, combining elements of Zoroastrian, Christian and Gnostic thought, which reached China in the 7th century.
The well restored stone complex you see today is a rebuild dating to the Yuan dynasty (14th century). The most remarkable relic in the temple is the ‘Buddha of Light', a sitting stone statue in the main hall, which is actually the prophet Mani, founder of Manichaeism, in a Buddhist disguise.
Manichaeism was considered an illegal religion during the Song period and the religion had to operate in the guise of an esoteric Buddhist group. Take a closer look at the statue, and you’ll find its hairstyle (straight instead of curly), hand gestures and colour combinations are distinctly different from most representations of the Buddha.
The temple is 19km south of Quánzhōu. From the long-distance bus station in Quánzhōu, board a bus to Ānhǎi (安海; ¥12) and tell the driver to drop you off at Cǎo’ān Lùkǒu (草庵路口). Then look for the English signage saying Grass Temple and it’s a 2km walk uphill. The road is not well marked so taking a taxi is a recommended alternative; a taxi from Quánzhōu is around ¥65.
Fúzhōu 福州
%0591 / Pop 2.1 million
Fúzhōu (福州) is a handsome provincial capital most often passed through en route to other destinations in southern China. Its tea culture is renowned, though, and you’ll find plenty of purveyors along the banks of the Minjiang River. A short trip to the west lies Gu Mountain and its delightful, accessible hiking paths.
1Sights
oSānfāng QīxianARCHITECTURE
(三坊七巷 GOOGLE MAP ; Yangqiao Donglu & Nánhou Jie, 杨 桥 东 路 )
The ‘downtown’ area of the city is actually a series of ancient residential buildings known as ‘Three Lanes and Seven Paths'. Constructed in the late Jin dynasty around the 12th century, the residences prospered 400 years later during Ming and then Qing rule. Today thousands of visitors wander through the white-walled streets every day, from the traditional architecture to the hectic shopping strip on Nanhou Jie, and take a break at a cafe on the canal. A taxi here from the south long-distance bus station costs around ¥25.
Linzexu Memorial HallMUSEUM
(福州林则徐纪念馆, Fúzhōu Línzéxú Jìniàn Guǎn GOOGLE MAP ; %0591 8762 2782; www.linzexu.cn; 16 Aomen Lu, 澳门路16号 admission ¥30; h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sun)
The former residence of the anti-opium trade reformer is a surprisingly well presented museum. It offers an overview of Fuzhou’s seafaring history, attractive gardens and courtyards to escape the busy weekend foot traffic.
Jade Hill Scenic AreaPARK
(于山风景区, Yú Shān Fēngjǐngqū GOOGLE MAP )
This rocky hill park in the centre of Fúzhōu rises above a snow-white statue of Mao Zedong (毛主席像; Máo Zhǔxí Xiàng) playing ‘traffic cop'. Check out the seven-storey White Pagoda (白塔; Bái Tǎ), built in AD 904. At the foot of Jade Hill are the wretched remains of Fúzhōu’s Ming dynasty city wall (明代古城墙遗迹; Míngdài Gǔchéngqiáng Yíjì); originally boasting seven gates, the wall was pulled down for road widening.
4Sleeping
Hǎixī HostelHOSTEL$
(海西青年旅舍, Hǎixī Qīngnián Lǚshè GOOGLE MAP ; %0591 8364 4944; 39 Meixian Jie, Tatou Lu, 塔头路梅仙街39号 s from ¥65)
This friendly hostel in the eastern part of the city is terrific value. Beds are new and firm, while each dormitory has writing desks and small bedside tables. Bike rental is available. The vine-covered entrance is tucked away next to a busy market.
7 Days InnHOTEL$
(7天, Qītiān %0591-8803 8377; www.7daysinn.cn; 98 Wuyi Nanlu, 五一南路98号 r ¥150-190; ai)
This hugely popular chain has a decent branch 500m south of the south long-distance bus station. Reception is friendly and staff speak some English. The university hall–style rooms are all spotless.
Jùchūnyuán Inn FuzhouHOTEL$$
(福州聚春园驿馆, Fúzhōu Jùchūnyuán Yìguǎn GOOGLE MAP ; %0591-6303 3888; 22 Gong Xiang, Sānfáng Qīxiàn, 三坊七巷宫巷22号 d ¥435-515; naiW)
A beautiful inn housed in a historic mansion in the pedestrianised Sānfáng Qīxiàn area. All 56 rooms are tastefully and modernly appointed.
Intercontinental FúzhōuLUXURY HOTEL$$$
(福州世茂洲际酒店, Fúzhōu Shìmào Zhōujì Jiǔdiàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0591-8612 8888; www.ihg.com; 108 Guangda Lu, 广达路108号 r from ¥1000, f ¥1300; paWs)
The tallest building in town is a classic five-star number with a stunning breakfast buffet and gym. The family suites are excellent value.
Shangri-La HotelHOTEL$$$
(香格里拉大酒店, Xiānggélǐlā Dàjiǔdiàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0591-8798 8888; www.shangri-la.com; 9 Xinquan Nanlu, 新权南路9号 d ¥1450; aiWs)
Overlooking Wuyi Square, this hotel is the finest in Fúzhōu. The swimming pool, lobby and breakfast spread live up to the brand’s reputation. The suites are good value when discounts apply. A cab from the south long-distance bus station is around ¥25.
5Eating
Sānfáng Qīxiàn is by far the most atmospheric area to eat out in Fúzhōu. Its narrow laneways and Ming-style houses have been impeccably maintained, while stylish cafes line small canals. You’ll find small eateries on both sides of Nanhou Jie (南后街), which also fills with shoppers on weekends.
ShíjǐnzhāiVEGETARIAN$
(食锦斋 %0591-8751 5500; 332 Tatou Lu, 福清市石竹山道院内332 mains ¥20-30; h9.30am-9pm Mon-Sun; v)
This reputable, 20-year old vegetarian restaurant has a welcoming outdoor area and a variety of mock-meat dishes. It gets busy with workers at lunchtime. It’s about 2km east of Sānfāng Qīxian.
30ml Coffee StudioCAFE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0591 8789 1230; Yushuanjian Xiang, 号闽发西湖广场楼号店 snacks ¥35-45; h9am-9pm; W)
Near the corner of ‘Seven Alleys', on the edge of the canal, 30ml is almost too cool for Fúzhōu. Here you’ll find delicious coffee (¥28-32), cake, chicken wings, imported fruit beer and the diverse sounds of Cash, Cook, Dylan et al. Reasonable English spoken, with a Chinese sensibility.
8Information
Civil Aviation Administration ChinaTRAVEL AGENCY
(CAAC, 中国民航, Zhōngguó Mínháng %0591 8334 5988; 8 Wuyi Zhonglu, 五一中路8号 )
8Getting There & Away
Air
Fúzhōu airport is 45km southeast of the city centre and has daily flights to Běijīng (¥1700, 2½ hours), Guǎngzhōu (¥900, one hour), Shànghǎi (¥800, 70 minutes) and Hong Kong (¥1400, 80 minutes).
Airport buses leave from at least three locations in town: the Apollo Hotel (阿波罗大酒店; Ābōluó Dàjiǔdiàn; ¥25) on Wuyi Zhonglu, 400m north of the south long-distance bus station, has departures every 20 minutes between 5.30am and 10pm; the north long-distance bus station (¥25) near the North Rail Station has departures every hour between 6am and 8pm; the South Rail Station has departures every hour between 12pm and 5pm. The trip takes about an hour.
Bus
The north long-distance bus station (长途汽车北站; Chángtú Qìchē Běizhàn GOOGLE MAP ; 317 Hualin Lu; 华林路317号 ) is 400m south of the North Rail Station. Services include the following:
AGuǎngzhōu ¥320, 12 hours, seven daily
AQuánzhōu ¥70, two hours, regular
AShànghǎi ¥310, 10 hours, two daily
AWǔyí Shān ¥100, eight hours, 5.30pm
AXiàmén ¥105, 3½ hours, every 20 minutes
The south long-distance bus station (长途汽车南站; Chángtú Qìchē Nánzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Guohuo Xilu & Wuyi Zhonglu; 在国货西路与五一中路的路口 ) services the following destinations:
AGuǎngzhōu ¥270, 13 hours, eight daily
AHong Kong ¥404, 15 hours, four daily
AShēnzhèn ¥340, 12 hours, five daily
AXiàmén ¥115, 3½ hours, every 15 minutes
Train
Fúzhōu has a good network of trains to many major cities. D trains sometimes leave from the more centrally located North Rail Station (福州北站; Fúzhōu Běizhàn 502 Hualin Lu; 华林路502号 ), but more often from the South Rail Station (福州南站; Fúzhōu Nánzhàn East of Lulei Village, Canshan District), 17km southeast of the town centre:
ABěijīng ¥719 to ¥765, 7½ to 10½ hours, six daily
AQuánzhōu ¥55, one hour, half-hourly
AShànghǎi ¥333, 6½ hours, 16 daily
AWǔyí Shān ¥174, five to 6½ hours, seven daily
AXiàmén ¥80, 1½ hours, every 15 minutes
BORDER CROSSING: GETTING TO TAIWAN
A ferry departs from Fúzhōu’s Máwěi ferry terminal (马尾码头; Máwěi Mǎtóu) to Taiwan’s archipelago of Matzu (马祖; Mázǔ). The boat leaves at 11am, takes about 1½ hours and costs ¥150.
Wǔyí Shān 武夷山
%0599 / Pop 230,000
Despite a long association with domestic travellers, Wǔyí Shān (武夷山) is a mountain retreat which retains a sense of untouched natural splendour. Set high up in the northwest of Fújiàn, its hiking trails through protected forests and the famed bamboo rafting trip are well worth the effort to come here. Try to visit midweek or in low season (November, March and April) and you might have the area to yourself. Avoid the area during heavy rain (especially during summer months) even if the hotels and tour organisers advise otherwise.
1Sights
The scenic part of Wǔyí Shān lies on the west bank of Chóngyáng Stream (Chóngyáng Xī). The main settlement is Wǔyí Shān city, about 10km to the northeast, with the train station and airport roughly halfway in between.
Wǔyí Shān Scenic AreaPARK
(武夷宫 1-/2-/3-day access ¥140/150/160; h7am-5pm)
The entrance to the Wǔyí Shān Scenic Area is at Wǔyí Gōng, about 200m south of the Wǔyí Mountain Villa. Trails within the scenic area connect all the major sites. Good walks include the 530m Great King Peak (大王峰; Dàwáng Fēng), accessed through the main entrance, and the 410m Heavenly Tour Peak (天游峰; Tiānyóu Fēng), where an entrance is reached by road up the Nine Twists River.
It’s a moderate two-hour walk to Great King Peak among bamboo groves and steep-cut rock walls. The trail can be slippery and wet, so bring suitable shoes.
The walk to Heavenly Tour Peak is more scenic, with better views of the river and mountain peaks. But the path is also the most popular with tour groups. At the northern end of the scenic area, the Water Curtain Cave (水帘洞; Shuǐlián Dòng) is a cleft in the rock about one-third of the way up a 100m cliff face. In winter and autumn, water plunges over the top of the cliff, creating a curtain of spray.
XiàméiVILLAGE
(下梅 admission ¥60)
This village dates to the Northern Song dynasty and boasts some spectacular Qing dynasty architecture from its heyday as a wealthy tea-trading centre. Motorbikes in Wǔyí Shān city can take you to Xiàméi (¥50 round trip) for this 12km journey.
2Activities
Nine Twists RiverRAFTING
(九曲溪, Jiǔqū Xī boat rides ¥120; h7am-5pm)
One of the highlights for visitors to Wǔyí Shān is floating down the river on zhúpái (bamboo rafts) fitted with rattan chairs. Departing from Xīngcūn (星村), a short bus ride west of the resort area, the trip down the river takes over an hour and brings you through some magnificent gorge scenery, with sheer rock cliffs and lush green vegetation.
4Sleeping
Most of the accommodation in Wǔyí Shān is in the midrange category and most is overpriced unless you come here during low season. Hotels are mostly on the eastern side of the river, while family-run guesthouses and hostels are in the village of Lántāng on the relatively quieter western side. The village is 700m north of Wǔyí Mountain Villa.
Wǔyíshān Shāncháhuā Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(武夷山山茶花青年旅舍, Wǔyíshān Shāncháhuā Qīngnián Lǔshè %0599 523 2345, 1890 5093 345; [email protected]; 27 Sangu Lantangcun; 三菇兰汤村27号 8-/4-bed dm ¥35/50, d ¥118-190; i)
Situated on the west bank in the village of Sángū Lántāng, away from anything like action, our favourite hostel in the area is by no means impressive on arrival. But the ‘Camellia’ offers bucolic seclusion and good double rooms for the price. To get there, take bus 5, or take a taxi (about ¥30 to ¥40) from the train station.
Wǔyí Mountain Dàwáng Peak Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(武夷山大王峰青年旅舍, Wǔyíshān Dàwángfēng Qīngnián Lǚshě %0599 520 9518; 46 Lantang Village, 兰汤村46号 dm ¥50, d ¥148-178; iW)
Walking paths lead to the back door of this attractive budget property where independent travellers hang out below the gaze of a giant Che Guevara image. No revolution in the cramped dorms, but the mood is bright and the non-English-speaking staff are very accommodating. To get there, take bus 5, or pay about ¥30 to ¥40 for a taxi ride from the train station.
Elite Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(逸精品酒店, Yìjīngpǐn Jiǔdiàn %0599 520 6088; 1 Qingliang Xia, 武夷山三菇度假区清凉峡1号 r ¥310-510; aW)
Excellent price for a clean, well appointed room and a perfectly adequate breakfast. It’s ideally located at the southern gate to the park proper.
C & D Resort Wǔyí MountainHOTEL$$$
(武夷山悦华酒店 %0599 523 8999; www.yeohwahotels.com; Dawangfeng Lu, 大王峰路 s/d ¥748/848; aiW)
New management have taken over at the flashest resort on the mountain. Expect the same couple of hundred five-star rooms, loads of tourists in high season, impeccable service and tremendous views of Great King Peak. You can take comfort in the on-site restaurants and rooms that are not expensive for the size.
8Information
There are some grubby internet cafes in the back alleys south of Wangfeng Lu (望峰路), charging ¥3 to ¥4 an hour.
Chinese maps of the Wǔyí Shān Scenic Area are available in bookshops and hotels in the resort district.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng Wujiu Lu, 无咎路 h9am-5pm)
This branch in Wǔyí Shān city has an ATM.
China International Travel ServiceTOURIST INFORMATION
(CITS, 中国国际旅行社, Zhōngguó Guójì Lǚxíngshè %0599 5134 666; www.cits.net; Guolu Dalou, Sangu Jie; h9am-4pm Mon-Sat)
The staff can arrange train tickets and tours.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Wǔyí Shān’s airport, about 15km south of the town and east of the mountain, has air links to several cities. A taxi should cost about ¥40 to either.
ABěijīng ¥1350, two hours, two daily
AGuǎngzhōu ¥890, 2½ hours, one daily
AShànghǎi ¥660, one hour, one daily
AXiàmén ¥720, 50 minutes, two daily
Bus
Buses run from the long-distance bus station in Wǔyí Shān city, about 1km west of the town.
AFúzhōu ¥174, five to six hours, two daily
AXiàmén ¥144 to ¥223, nine hours, four daily
Train
Trains go to Wǔyí Shān from Quánzhōu (¥148, one to two hours, hourly) and Xiàmén (¥149 to ¥232, 12 hours, hourly).
8Getting Around
Bus 6 links the long-distance bus station, train station, airport, resort area and Wǔyí Mountain Villa.
> The resort area is small enough for you to walk everywhere. Expect to pay about ¥15 for a motorised trishaw from the resort district to most of the scenic area entrances. A ride from the train station or airport to the resort district will cost ¥30.
Shānxī
Datong
Around Datong
Wtai Shan
Taiyuan
Around Taiyuan
Pingyao
Around Pingyao
Qikou
Jincheng
Guoyu
Prime Minister Chens Castle
Shānxī
Pop 35.7 million
Why Go?
Waist-deep in handsome history, Shānxī (山西) is home to an impressive roll-call of must-see, ancient sights. Most travellers start with the walled city of Píngyáo. Basing yourself here and jumping to the town's surrounding sights is practically all you need: you'll encounter time-worn temples, traditional Qing dynasty courtyard architecture, some of the warmest people in the Middle Kingdom and the opportunity for a day trip to the dizzying mountain cliffs and gorges of Mián Shān.
Travellers shouldn't overlook Dàtóng, a forward-thinking city with a brand-new city wall and a great-looking old town, but it's the astonishing cave sculptures at Yúngāng outside town that give expression to the province's other great source of magic: a rich vein of Buddhist heritage, which splendidly litters the rolling mountain vastness of Wǔtái Shān with temples. Add the still-inhabited cave dwellings of Lǐjiā Shān and vestiges of the Great Wall, and you could find yourself staying longer than planned.
Lonely Planet China Page 70
