Rìshēngchāng Financial House MuseumMUSEUM
(日升昌, Rìshēngchāng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 38 Xi Dajie, 西大街38号 h8am-7pm)
Not to be missed, this museum began life as a humble dye shop in the late 18th century before its tremendous success as a business saw it transform into China’s first draft bank (1823), eventually expanding to 57 branches nationwide. The museum has nearly 100 rooms, including offices, living quarters and a kitchen, as well as several cheques from the days of yore.
Entry included with ticket to the town.
City God TempleTAOIST SITE
(城隍庙, Chénghuáng Miào MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Chenghuangmiao Jie, 城隍庙街 )
Within the venerable halls of this astonishing temple are some intriguing frescoes, including the hall at the very rear of the temple, the Qǐn Gōng (寝宫). Also look out for the two-faced fertility goddess in the Songsheng Dian (送生殿) – she is the zhuǎnshēng pópo (转生婆婆; reincarnation mother), responsible for sending out babies to the world. Her face at the back is, however, ferocious. She is helped in her work by assistants standing next to her who deliver babies from baskets.
Admission included with entrance ticket to the town.
Nine Dragon ScreenMONUMENT
(九龙壁, Jiǔlóng Bì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Chenghuangmiao Jie, 城隍庙街 )
The old Píngyáo Theatre (大戏堂; Dàxì Táng) has been converted into a hotel's banquet hall, but it is fronted by this magnificent stone wall.
Confucius TempleCONFUCIAN SITE
(文庙, Wén Miào MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Wenmiao Jie, 文庙街 h8am-7pm)
Píngyáo’s oldest surviving building is Dàchéng Hall (大成殿; Dàchéng Diàn), dating from 1163. It can be found in the Confucius Temple, a huge complex where bureaucrats-to-be came to take the imperial exams. Within the hall, beneath the roosting and cooing pigeons, is the seated sage with his fellow disciples.
Admission included with entrance ticket to the town.
4Sleeping
Most old-town hotels are conversions of old courtyard homes, and finding a bed isn't hard. Hoteliers are increasingly aware of the needs of Western travellers, some English is spoken and they can make a passable Western breakfast. Most places offer train- or bus-station pick-ups.
Upon arrival, touts will direct you to rooms with air-con, private bathrooms and wi-fi from ¥80. Make sure it's not too far from the centre and don't be afraid to say no.
Zhèngjiā KèzhànCOURTYARD HOTEL$
(郑家客栈 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0354 568 4466; 68 Yamen Jie, 衙门街68号 dm ¥50, d from ¥140; aiW)
With two locations virtually next door to each other, head to the one closest to the Listen to the Rain Pavilion for decent doubles with kàng (raised sleeping platform) beds set around a very pleasant courtyard. The cramped but fresh, sweet and clean dorms are under the eaves at the neighbouring courtyard (which also has doubles), but the tiny bathrooms are dark.
The lobby and communal area at the front has been half-converted to a bookshop (with many travel books). It sees more Chinese travellers than the other guesthouses, making it a good place to meet the locals.
oHarmony GuesthouseCOURTYARD HOTEL$$
(和义昌客栈, Héyìchāng Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0354 568 4963, 134 5327 0465; www.py-harmony.com; 1 Duan Xiang, 段巷1号 r ¥180-480; aiW)
The rooms in these three lovingly preserved 300-year-old Qing courtyards are superb and the tranquil atmosphere is sublime. The English-speaking husband-and-wife team also offer good local information and breakfasts. The location is excellent, tucked away quietly down a charming alleyway. The hotel also offers tours, ticketing, bike rental, laundry and pick-up.
Private rooms have traditional stone kàng beds, wooden bed-top tea tables and wooden inlaid windows. At night, when red lanterns light up the courtyards, it's even more picturesque.
Déjūyuán GuesthouseCOURTYARD HOTEL$$
(德居源客栈, Déjūyuán Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0354 568 5266; www.pydjy.net; 43 Xi Dajie, 西大街43号 s ¥150, d & tw ¥280-488, ste ¥1480; aiW)
If it's good enough for former French president Giscard D'Estaing who spent two nights here, it's good enough for you. The lovely rooms at this efficient and friendly place are set around two of the oldest courtyards in Píngyáo. The cheapest rooms are excellent value, while the suites are exquisite, with walnut-wood 'phoenix' beds (rather like four-posters).
oJing’s ResidenceCOURTYARD HOTEL$$$
(锦宅, Jǐn Zhái MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0354 584 1000; www.jingsresidence.com; 16 Dong Dajie, 东大街16号 r ¥1500, ste ¥2000-3200; aiW)
With the superhushed atmosphere that’s unique to the most exclusive (and expensive) hotels, Jing’s is a soothing blend of old Píngyáo and modern flair that’s squarely aimed at upmarket Western travellers. At 260 years old, the former home of a Qing dynasty silk merchant is sleek and well-finished with polished service from the English-speaking staff.
5Eating
Most guesthouses can rustle up (Western or Chinese) meals. Píngyáo’s lanes are stuffed with xiǎochī guǎn (小吃馆; hole-in-the-wall restaurants), most offering the same dishes at similar prices. For something cheaper and less touristy, head to Xia Xiguan Jie (下西关街) just outside Lower West Gate, where food stalls sell noodles for ¥5 and up, plus ròujiāmó (肉夹馍; fried pork or beef with green peppers in bread), and meat and veggie skewers.
oDéjūyuánCHINESE$
(德居源, Petit Resto MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 82 Nan Dajie, 南大街82号 mains from ¥25; h8.30am-10pm; W)
Traveller-friendly, but no worse for that, this welcoming and popular little restaurant has a simple and tasty menu (in English) of northern Chinese dishes such as dumplings (¥25), plus all the local faves. Try the famed Píngyáo beef (¥45), the mountain noodles (¥15) or the fried shrimps with green pepper (¥48). It's often packed, so you may have to share a table.
oTianyuankui GuesthouseCHINESE$$
(天元奎客栈, Tiānyuánkuí Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0354 568 0069; 73 Nan Dajie, 南大街73号 dishes ¥10-68; h7.30am-10pm; W)
With warm wooden furnishings and floral cushions, friendly staff, free wi-fi and soft music, this restaurant has an easygoing vibe that invites travellers to linger over their meals. The English iPad menu has photos of the dishes (a range of traditional favourites such as Píngyáo beef sit next to the usual meat, veg and tofu offerings) making ordering a snap.
It's a good place for an early-morning breakfast before other places open. There are also comfortable rooms (from ¥400) in the rear courtyard compound.
Sakura CafeCAFE$$
(樱花屋西餐酒吧, Yīnghuāwū Xīcān Jiǔbā MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 6 Dong Dajie, 东大街6号 mains from ¥30; h8am-11pm; Wv)
This eclectic and fun cafe-bar attracts both locals and foreigners with its daily food and drink specials. It does decent, if pricey, pizzas (from ¥65), burgers, sandwiches and omelettes, plus breakfasts, coffee, beer (from ¥15) and cocktails. Staff are welcoming. There’s another equally popular branch at 86 Nan Dajie, which is more aimed at Chinese (this branch is aimed at Westerners).
6Drinking & Nightlife
Coffee by ShrewCAFE
(池池咖啡馆, Chíchí Kāfēiguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 9 Chenghuangmiao Jie, 城隍庙街9号 coffee from ¥25, cakes ¥28, alcohol from ¥35; h11am-9pm; W)
Behind its green doors is a cute-as-pie, blink-and-you'll-miss-it cafe serving some of Píngyáo's best espresso, lattes and single-origin brews in a warm setting lined with bookshelves and cosy seats. Come night-time, swap caffeine for simple cocktails and start a conversation with the Fujianese owner Shrew. Shrew has rooms too – they're not at this address, but she can take you there.
7Shopping
Nan Dajie (南大街) is stuffed with wood-panelled shops selling Píngyáo snacks, knick-knacks, faux Cultural Revolution memorabilia, 'antiques', jade, shoes and slippers, and loads more. Look out for red and black Shānxī paper cuts, which make excellent presents.
8Inform
ation
China PostPOST
(中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; Xi Dajie, 西大街 h8am-6pm)
Handily located at the centre of the old town.
Industrial & Commercial Bank of ChinaBANK
(ICBC, 工商银行, Gōngshāng Yínháng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Xia Xiguan Dajie, 下西关大街 )
ATM just west of the old city wall.
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB, 公安局, Gōng’ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; %0354 563 5010; off Yamen Jie, 衙门街 h8am-noon & 3-6pm Mon-Fri)
Next to the Píngyáo fire station on Yamen Jie, also known as Zhengfu Jie. You cannot extend visas here, but you can in Tàiyuán (although it takes seven working days).
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Píngyáo’s bus station (汽车新站; Qìchēxīnzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0354 569 0011; Zhongdu Dongjie; 中都东街 ) has buses to the following locations:
ATàiyuán (¥26, two hours, frequent, 6.30am to 7.40pm)
ALíshí (¥44, two hours, 8.30am and 12.30pm)
AChángzhì (¥79, three hours, 7.50am and 1.40pm)
AQiao Family Courtyard (¥13, 45 minutes, half-hourly)
Train
Píngyáo has two train stations: the older Píngyáo Train Station (平遥站; Píngyáo Zhàn) just north of the city walls and the new Píngyáo Gŭchéng Train Station (平遥古城站; Píngyáo Gǔchéng Zhàn) further away to the south; the latter mainly services high-speed trains. Check to see which station your train is pulling in at.
Tickets for trains (especially to Xī’ān) are tough to get in summer, so book ahead. Your hotel/hostel should be able to help. Trains depart for the following destinations.
ABěijīng D-class train 1st/2nd class ¥255/183, 4½ hours, two daily
ABěijīng G-class train 1st/2nd class ¥323/226, four hours, one daily
ADàtóng hard seat/sleeper ¥61/122, six to eight hours, four daily
ATàiyuán ¥18, 1½ hours, frequent
ATàiyuán South D-class train 1st/2nd class ¥35/29, 40 minutes, 15 per day
ATàiyuán South G-class train 1st/2nd class ¥35/29, 40 minutes, one daily 1.40pm
AXī’ān D-class train 1st/2nd class ¥188/150, three hours, six daily
8Getting Around
Many hotels and hostels arrange pick-up from the train station, so check up front.
A rickshaw will run from Píngyáo train station and the bus station to the old town for ¥10. A taxi from Píngyáo Gŭchéng train station to the old town costs ¥30. Note that taxis are not allowed to enter the old town (to keep traffic under control), so you will be dropped outside the gates of the city wall.
From Píngyáo Gŭchéng train station, take bus 108 (¥1) to the old town.
Píngyáo can be easily navigated on foot or bicycle (¥10 per day). Bike rental is available all over; most guesthouses offer it and there are many spots along Nan Dajie and Xi Dajie.
Around Píngyáo
Most hostels and guesthouses will arrange transport to the surrounding sights. Day tours to the Wang Family Courtyard and Zhāngbì Underground Castle are ¥80 per person (excluding the admission price or food) and depart at 8.30am, returning late afternoon. You can also hire a private car for ¥350 per day.
oMián ShānMOUNTAIN
(绵山 incl bus ¥160)
With vertiginous and dizzying cliffs alongside a deep gorge, this astonishing mountain area is a splendid day trip from Píngyáo. Lined with precariously perched temple architecture, scenic gully walks and breathtaking views, the road snaking around the mountain is an undemanding hike, with buses linking the main sights. From the bus drop-off, it's a short walk to Dragon Head Temple (龙头寺; Lóngtóu Sì), from where a long, flat road links to the Shuǐtāogōu Scenic Area (水涛沟景区; Shuǐtāogōu Jǐngqū), a few hours' walk.
From Dragon Head Temple, the wide road (which accommodates the hop-on, hop-off buses that rattle along the route) hugs the side of the mountain, overlooking a deep and perilous drop into the gorge below. The distant sound of the river at the bottom accompanies you as you hike, with vertical cliffs on either side. You will pass a spring and then the Dàluó Temple (大罗宫; Dàluō Gōng), built up the side of the cliff. Winding around the mountain with a stomach-wrenching view below your feet is Rabbit Bridge (兔桥; Tùqiáo). It was out of bounds at the time of writing, so you needed to walk through the tunnel. Ahead is Yúnfēng Temple (云峰寺; Yúnfēng Sì) and the Sky Ladder (天桥; Tiānqiáo), a scary-looking walkway climbing up the side of the mountain. Past Five Dragon Peak (无龙峰; Wǔlóng Fēng) is the exhilarating Qīxián Gǔ (栖贤谷), a lovely river-gorge walk. Beyond lie the waterfalls, bridges and water-curtain caves of the Shuǐtāogōu Scenic Area.
Buses run regularly between the sights, so just hop-on and hop-off, although walking between the different areas is not difficult. The first/last bus up the mountain from the ticket office is at 7am/7pm. You must buy the bus ticket (¥50) as you cannot walk up from the main ticket office and the ticket entitles you to free transport between the sights. Pick up a map at the ticket office for ¥5. Take water, sunscreen and, if travelling in the colder months, some warm clothes.
Take a train (¥7 to ¥9, 25 minutes, regular) to Jièxiū (介休) from Píngyáo train station or take a bus (¥11, one hour) from Píngyáo bus station to Jièxiū bus station. Buses (¥10) to Mián Shān leave from in front of the train station, around 300m east along Xinjian Xilu (新建西路) from the long-distance bus station in Jièxiū. Booking a car from Píngyáo would cost around ¥300 for the return trip; this can be arranged at hotels such as the Harmony Guesthouse.
oShuānglín TempleBUDDHIST SITE
(双林寺, Shuānglín Sì ¥40; h8.30am-6.30pm)
Within easy reach of Píngyáo, this astonishing Buddhist temple houses many incredibly rare, intricately carved Tang, Song and Yuan painted statues. Rebuilt in 1571, it’s an impressive complex of ancient halls: the interiors of the Sakyamuni Hall and flanking buildings are exquisite. The Four Heavenly Kings date to the Tang dynasty and the Thousand Buddha Hall contains an astonishing 1000-arm Guanyin. Dark-faced Buddha statues hide within the Great Treasure Hall, while young sculptors come here to cast their likeness from clay.
Guanyin is portrayed sitting lalitasana (a very lithe and relaxed regal posture) in another hall, while in the Luohan Hall, one of the ancient luóhàn (arhat) is depicted boozing. Note how some of the statues have a wooden skeleton, covered in clay. You can also go up and walk along the wall around the temple. A rickshaw or taxi from town will cost ¥50 return, or you could cycle the 7km here.
oZhènguó TempleBUDDHIST SITE
(镇国寺, Zhènguó Sì ¥25; h8am-6pm)
While not as famous as Shuānglín Temple, Zhènguó Temple also houses a magnificent collection of old halls and ancient statues. Don't miss the still-living 1000-year-old Dragon Scholar Tree. The incredible Hall of the Ten Thousand Buddhas, built in 963 AD (Northern Han dynasty), is one of the oldest wooden halls in the land. Housed within its time-worn timbers is a collection of 11 10th-century painted sculptures and frescoes.
At the rear of the hall a Guanyin sits lalitasana (a lithe and very relaxed regal posture). Inside the Three Buddhas Hall, you are greeted by three ancient statues of the past, present and future Buddha. The Hall of the King of Hell houses Ming dynasty effigies of Dizang and his attendants. The Hall of Heavenly Kings is no upstart either, it dates to the Yuan dynasty.
The temple lies around 12km northeast of Píngyáo. Take bus 9 (¥4, 30 minutes) from Guāngdà Shāngchéng (光大商城) on Shuncheng Beilu (顺城北路) to the west of the city wall.
Wang Family CourtyardHISTORIC BUILDING
(王家大院, Wángjiā Dàyuàn ¥55; h8am-7pm)
More castle than cosy home, this grand Qing-dynasty former residence has been very well maintained (note the wooden galleries fronting many of the courtyard buildings). Due to the sheer size, the seemingly endless procession of courtyards (123 in all) become a litt
le repetitive, but it's still beautiful and the complex is interspersed with gardens. Four direct buses (¥17, one hour, 7.10am, 8.40am, 12.40pm and 2.20pm) leave from Píngyáo’s bus station, returning at 10.50am, 12.30pm, 3.30pm and 5.20pm.
You can join a tour or hire a car to get here. Climb up onto the walls around the vast courtyard for excellent views. Behind the castle walls are interesting and still-occupied cave dwellings (窑洞; yáodòng), while in front of the complex is a Yuan dynasty Confucius Temple, with a beautiful three-tiered wooden pagoda. An audio guide to the courtyard complex is ¥20 (¥50 deposit).
Zhāngbì Underground CastleCAVE
(张壁古堡, Zhāngbì Gǔbǎo ¥60; h8am-6.30pm)
This 1400-year-old network of defence tunnels, stretching underground for 10km, are the oldest and longest series of such tunnels in China. Built at the end of the Sui dynasty in case of attack by Tang dynasty invaders, they were never used and subsequently fell into disrepair. Today, 1500m of tunnels on three levels have been restored. You descend as low as 26m in places and tour narrow and low subterranean passages, which were once storage rooms, guardhouses and bedrooms.
Holes cut into the side of shafts leading to the surface indicate escape routes and places where soldiers stood sentry to spy on would-be attackers. Chinese-speaking guides (included in the ticket price) are compulsory; you don’t want to get lost here.
Lonely Planet China Page 74
