Kungfu HostelHOSTEL$
(功夫客栈, Gōngfù Kèzhàn %0371 6274 8889; 20 Dujia Village, Shàolín Temple Grounds, 少林景区内度假村20号院 dm/d ¥80/198; aW)
If waking up to the sounds of crowing roosters and future Jet Lis jogging laps past the door sounds like your cup of chá, don't miss this opportunity to stay at Shàolín Temple. Set in a residential compound on a hillside opposite the main temple, this is without a doubt the best place to soak up the full Shàolín experience.
Make sure to reserve in advance – it's hard to find (about a 20- to 30-minute walk from the ticket office), and you need to purchase a ticket before you check in (unless it's after 6pm). They can help arrange private martial arts classes, too.
Dēngfēng Climb HostelHOSTEL$
(登封攀登国际青年旅舍, Dēngfēng Pāndēng Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě %138 3853 6111; Songyang Lu, 嵩阳路 dm/d ¥30/120; aW)
The simple and friendly Climb Hostel has an enviable location set against the mountains, just steps from the entrance to Mt Tàishì. Located all the way in the north of town, it can be a bit tricky to reach on your first try, though. Bus 6 runs almost here from the bus station (last stop, then ask directions).
Shàolín HotelHOTEL$$
(少林宾馆, Shàolín Bīnguǎn %0371 6016 1616; 66 Zhongyue Dajie, 中岳大街66号 d from ¥238; aW)
Bright and cheery staff, good discounts and clean rooms make this neat and trim midrange hotel a good choice. Look for the four-storey white building east of Dicos (a fast-food restaurant) with the yellow-and-red sign. It's a ¥7 taxi ride from the bus station. Discounts of ¥100 available.
WǔSHù OR GōNGFù?
When planning to study Chinese martial arts, the first question you should ask is: shall I learn wǔshù (武术) or gōngfù (功夫)? There may be considerable overlap, but there are crucial differences.
Wǔshù is a more recently coined term that's strongly associated with athletic martial arts displays and competition-based martial arts patterns or forms. Gōngfù (kung fu), however, is more about the development of internal and more esoteric skills, rather than physical prowess or mainstream athleticism.
If you're lucky enough to see a martial arts master break a piece of ceramic from a bowl and grind it to dust with his bare fingers, this is gōngfù, not wǔshù.
3Entertainment
Wǔshù Training CentreMARTIAL ARTS
(武术馆, Wǔshù Guǎn h9.30am, 10.30am, 11.30am, 2pm, 3pm, 4pm)
Coming through Shàolín Temple's main entrance, you’ll pass several wǔshù schools. On the right, about 500m in, is the Wǔshù Training Centre, with free entertaining performances by the novices – a quintessential part of the Shàolín experience. (There is no 9.30am show in the off-season.)
8Information
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yīnháng 52 Zhongyue Dajie, 中岳大街52号 h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Has a 24-hour ATM and foreign exchange.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(186 Shaolin Dadao, 少林大道186号 h9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri)
China International Travel ServiceTOURIST INFORMATION
(CITS, 中国国际旅行社, Zhōngguó Guójì Lǚxíngshè %0371 6287 3387; www.cits.net; Dayu Lu; 大禹路 )
China PostPOST
(中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng cnr Zhongyue & Wangji Rd, 中岳路与望箕路 )
Centrally located post office.
Number Two People’s HospitalHOSPITAL
(第二人民医院, Dì’èr Rénmín Yīyuàn %0371 6289 9999; 189 Shaolin Dadao, 少林大道189号 )
On the main road.
Train Ticket OfficeTICKET OFFICE
(火车预售票处, huǒchē yùshòupiàochù 72 Shaolin Dadao, 少林大道72号 h8am-6pm)
8Getting There & Away
The main bus station (总站; zǒng zhàn) is in the east of town; jump on bus 1 (¥1) to reach Zhongyue Dajie and the town centre. There’s also a west bus station (西站; xī zhàn), which some buses head to after dropping people off at the main station. Buses run to the following:
AKāifēng ¥40, three hours, four daily
ALuòyáng ¥25, two hours, half-hourly
AZhèngzhōu ¥27, two hours, half-hourly
Don't buy the cheaper Zhèngzhōu bus ticket (¥22) – it won't take you to the central bus station.
To purchase tickets in advance for trains departing from Zhèngzhōu, go to the train ticket office.
Taxis are a cheap and easy way to get around. Fares start at ¥5, though many drivers insist on a ¥10 flat fee (accept or switch taxis).
Luòyáng 洛阳
%0379 / Pop 1.8 million
Access point for the incredible Lóngmén Grottoes outside town, Luòyáng (洛阳) was one of China’s true dynastic citadels. The city was the prosperous capital of 13 dynasties, until the Northern Song dynasty shifted its capital east along the Yellow River to Kāifēng in the 10th century. The mighty Sui- and Tang-dynasty walls formed an imposing rectangle north and south of the Luò River, while worshippers flocked to 1300 Buddhist temples through the city.
Luòyáng was once the very centre of the Chinese universe and the eastern capital of the resplendent Tang dynasty. Tragically, little remains of this glorious past: the heart of the magnificent Sui dynasty palace complex was centred on the point where today’s Zhongzhou Zhonglu and Dingding Lu intersect in a frenzy of traffic.
Luòyáng
1Sights
1Lìjǐng GateD2
2Luòyáng Old TownD2
3Wángchéng ParkA3
4Sleeping
4Christian's HotelB2
5Luòyáng Yìjiā International Youth HostelD1
5Eating
Niūniū DàpánjīD1
6Old Town Night MarketD2
8Information
7Bank of ChinaA3
8Bank of ChinaA1
9Bank of ChinaB3
10Industrial & Commercial BankB2
1Sights
oLuòyáng MuseumMUSEUM
(洛阳市博物馆, Luòyáng Shì Bówùguǎn www.lymuseum.com; Nietai Lu, 聂泰路 h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun)F
This huge museum, situated out of the action south of the river, has exhilarating displays across two huge floors and is one of the few places to get ancient Luòyáng in any kind of perspective. There’s an absorbing collection of three-colour Tang dynasty sāncǎi porcelain; the city’s rise is traced through dynastic pottery, bronzeware and other magnificent objects. An audio guide (¥40) is also available.
Ancient Tombs MuseumMUSEUM
(古墓博物馆, Gǔmù Bówùguǎn Airport Rd, 机场路 h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun)F
This superb but little-visited museum has three main exhibits: 20 reconstructed tombs (spanning five main dynasties, or over 1000 years), re-created using original building materials; original tomb murals; and a Northern Wei royal burial mound (closed at the time of research). Grab an audio guide (¥20) on the way in and let loose your inner Indiana Jones: crawl on hands and knees into a 2000-year-old tomb to admire delicately carved peony panels and the faded frescoes on a domed ceiling.
The museum is 7km north of town. To get here, take bus 83 north from the train station (¥1, 20 minutes). A taxi will run about ¥30.
Luòyáng Old TownAREA
(老城区, lǎochéngqū MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Any Chinese city worth its rice has an Old Town. Luòyáng’s is east of the rebuilt Lìjǐng Gate (丽景门; Lìjǐng Mén MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Xi Dajie; 西大街 ¥30; h8am-8pm summer, shorter hours rest of year), where the narrow Xi Dajie yields up a plethora of shops, grey-brick houses and the occasional creaking monument, including the old Drum Tower (鼓楼; Gǔ Lóu) rising up on Dong Dajie (东大街) and, just south, the lovely brick Wénfēng Pagoda (文峰塔; Wénfēng Tǎ), originally built in the Song dynasty.
Wángchéng ParkPARK
(王城公园, Wángchéng Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Zhongzhou Zhonglu, 中洲中路 h6am-9.30pm summer, shorter hours rest of year)
>
One of Luòyáng’s indispensable green lungs, this park is the site of the annual Peony Festival. Unfortunately, the park is home to a decrepit zoo. There’s also an amusement park (rides ¥15 to ¥20).
zFestivals & Events
Peony FestivalCULTURAL
(Wángchéng Park; hApr)
The annual peony festival floods Wángchéng Park with colour, floral aficionados, photographers, young girls with garlands on their heads and hawkers selling huge bouquets of flowers.
4Sleeping
Luòyáng has a large range of hotels in every budget bracket dotted all over the city.
Luòyáng Yìjiā International Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(洛阳易家国际青年旅舍, Luòyáng Yìjiā Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0379 6351 2311; 329 Zhongzhou Donglu, 中洲东路329号 dm ¥30-50, d & tw ¥158; aiW)
Located in the busy Old Town, this hostel hits its stride with a lively communal area and bar. Six-bed dorms are a little tight; private rooms are the equivalent of a two-star Chinese room. Rooms facing the main road are noisy (and bright), so check first. Transport to town and all the major sights is within walking distance.
Buses 5 and 41 from the train and bus stations come past. From the Lóngmén train station, take bus 49, then switch to bus 9 at Xiguan.
Christian’s HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(克丽司汀酒店, Kèlìsītīng Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0379 6326 6666; www.5xjd.com; 56 Jiefang Lu, 解放路56号, entrance on Tanggong Xilu d from ¥1499; aiW)
This boutique hotel scores points for its variety of rooms, each with a kitchen and dining area, large plush beds, flat-screen TVs, and mini-bar. Do you go for Tang dynasty style or white walls and a circular bed? Regardless, you’ll be thanking the eponymous Christian each time you step into the room. Outside of April, discounts usually slash rates in half.
5Eating
Luòyáng’s famous ‘water banquet’ (水席; shǔixí) is much discussed on China’s culinary grapevine. The main dishes of this 24-course meal are soups served up with the speed of flowing water – hence the name.
In the centre of town, the Today Mall (新都汇; Xīndùhuì), at the corner of Tanggong Xilu and Jiefang Lu, has a wide variety of things to eat.
Niūniū DàpánjīXINJIANG$
(妞妞大盘鸡 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 329 Zhongzhou Donglu, 中州东路329号 big-plate chicken ¥32; h11.30am-2pm & 5.30-10pm)
A Xīnjiāng speciality, dàpánjī (大盘鸡; big-plate chicken) is a spicy chicken, potato and pepper stew; halfway through the meal, handmade noodles and greens are added to the mix – the ensemble is absolutely delicious. A small portion feeds two people, and this is the only dish they serve, so you can be assured they do it well!
Old Town Night MarketSTREET FOOD$
(十字街夜市, Shízìjiē Yèshì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Xinghua Jie, 兴华街 meals ¥10-50; h6pm-1am)
Festooned with brightly lit red lanterns, this lively night market has a cornucopia of snacks from lamb kebabs (羊肉串; yángròu chuàn) and fermented soup noodles (浆面; jiāng miàn) to roasted garlic-stuffed eggplant (蒜香茄子; suànxiāng qiézi). Stalls on the left offer a wide range of cooked dishes served at tables set up on the sidewalk behind.
Qiánmén Kǎoyā DàjiǔdiànPEKING DUCK$$
(前门烤鸭大酒店 GOOGLE MAP ; %0379 6395 3333; cnr Zhongzhou Donglu & Minzu Jie; half/whole duck ¥70/138, other dishes from ¥22; h10am-2pm & 5-9pm)
This efficient and smart choice serves up rich and tasty roast duck, cooked by an army of white-clad chefs. There are other vegetable and meat dishes on the menu, but why bother?
8Information
Internet cafes (¥3 per hour) are scattered around the train station and sprinkled along nearby Jinguyuan Lu.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Daonan Lu, 道南路 )
Handy branch just west of the train station.
Bank of ChinaBANK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Zhongzhou Xilu, 中州西路 )
For foreign exchange and cashing travellers cheques.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Zhongzhou Zhonglu, 中州中路 h8am-4.30pm)
China PostPOST
(中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; Zhongzhou Zhonglu, 中州中路 )
Industrial & Commercial BankBANK
(ICBC, 工商银行, Gōngshāng Yínháng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Zhongzhou Zhonglu, 中州中路 )
Huge branch; foreign exchange and 24-hour ATM.
Luòyáng Central HospitalHOSPITAL
(洛阳市中心医院, Luòyáng Shì Zhōngxīn Yīyuàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0379 6389 2222; 288 Zhongzhou Zhonglu, 中州中路288号 )
Works in cooperation with SOS International; also has a 24-hour pharmacy.
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB, 公安局, Gōng’ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; %0379 6313 3313; cnr Taitang Lu & Guanxi Lu, 太康路与馆西路交叉口 h8am-noon & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri)
The exit-entry department (出入境大厅; chūrùjìng dàtīng) is across the river to the southwest.
Train Ticket AgencyTICKET OFFICE
(火车票代售处, Huǒchēpiào Dàishòuchǔ 249 Zhongzhou Donglu, 中州东路249号 h9am-5pm)
Sells train tickets for a ¥5 commission.
8Getting There & Away
Air
You would do better to fly into or out of Zhèngzhōu. One or two daily flights operate to Běijīng (¥275, 1½ hours), Shànghǎi (¥710, 1½ hours), Guǎngzhōu (¥900, two hours) and other cities. Obtain tickets through hotels or Ctrip.
Bus
Regular departures from the long-distance bus station (洛阳一运汽车站; Luòyáng yīyùn qìchēzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; 51 Jinguyuan Lu; 金谷园路 ), located diagonally across from the train station, include the following:
ADēngfēng ¥24, two hours, every 40 minutes (5.30am to 6.50pm)
AKāifēng ¥60, four hours, half-hourly
AShàolín Temple ¥19, 1½ hours, every 40 minutes (5.30am to 6.50pm)
AZhèngzhōu ¥50, two hours, half-hourly
Buses to similar destinations also depart from the friendly and less frantic Jǐnyuǎn bus station (锦远汽车站; Jǐnyuǎn qìchēzhàn GOOGLE MAP ), just west of the train station.
Train
Luòyáng’s Lóngmén Station (洛阳龙门站, Lùoyáng Lóngmén Zhàn), over the river in the south of town, is the high-speed station. The main train station (洛阳火车站, Lùoyáng huǒchē zhàn) has slower trains.
You can get tickets for a ¥5 commission from a train ticket agency.
Destinations departing the main train station:
ABěijīng West Seat/sleeper ¥105/208, 7½ to 11 hours, seven daily
AKāifēng Hard seat ¥30, three hours, nine daily (afternoon only)
ANánjīng Seat/sleeper ¥112/219, eight to 12 hours, seven daily
AShànghǎi Seat/sleeper ¥142/276, nine to 17 hours, six daily
From Luòyáng Lóngmén Station:
ABěijīng West G train 2nd/1st class ¥367/587, four hours, seven daily
AShànghǎi D train sleeper ¥765, nine hours, 22.52pm
AWǔhàn 2nd/1st class ¥302/483, three hours, regular
AXī’ān North G train 2nd/1st class ¥175/280, 1¾ hours, frequent
AZhèngzhōu G train 2nd/1st class ¥60/90, 40 minutes, frequent
8Getting Around
The airport is 12km north of the city. Bus 83 (¥1, 30 minutes) runs to/from the parking lot to the left of the train station. A taxi to/from the train station costs about ¥35.
Buses 5 and 41 go to the Old Town from the train station, running via Wángchéng Sq. Bus 49 (among others) runs from Lóngmén station to the centre of town.
Taxis are ¥5 at flag fall, making them good value. Expect to pay about ¥30 to Lóngmén station and ¥10 to the main train and bus station area.
Around Luòyáng
oLóngmén GrottoesBUDDHIST SITE
The ravaged grottoes at Lóngmén constitute one of China’s handful of surviving masterpieces of Buddhist rock carving. A sutra in stone, the epic achievement of the Lóngmén Grottoes was commenced by chisellers from the Northern Wei dynasty after the capital relocated here from Dàtóng in the year 494. Over the next two centuries, more than 100,000 images and statues of Buddha and his disciples emerged from over a kilometre of limestone cliff wall along the Yī River (伊河; Yī Hé).
A disheartening amount of decapitation disfigures the statuary at this Unesco World Heritage Site. In the early 20th century, many effigies were beheaded by unscrupulous collectors or simply extracted whole, many ending up abroad in such institutions as the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Atkinson Museum in Kansas City and the Tokyo National Museum. Many statues have clearly just had their faces crudely bludgeoned off, vandalism that probably dates to the Cultural Revolution and earlier episodes of anti-Buddhist fervour. The elements have also intervened, wearing smooth the faces of many other statues.
The grottoes are scattered in a line on the west and east sides of the river. Most of the significant Buddhist carvings are on the west side, but a small crop can also be admired after traversing the bridge to the east side. Admission also includes entry to a temple and garden on the east side. English captions are rudimentary.
Lonely Planet China Page 86
