Vegetarian or not, the interesting dishes in this calm, large restaurant will please many. Try skewers of mock meat, hand-pulled noodles in a rich tomato and mushroom broth, or corn tea. The iPad menus have scant English but detailed photos. It's on the 4th floor above the Dōngmén food court and, ironically, McDonald's.
LaurelDIM SUM, CANTONESE$
(丹桂轩; Dānguìxuān MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0755 8232 3668; Renmin Nanlu; 人民南路 dim sum ¥9-28, dishes ¥40-180; h7am-11pm; mGuómào)
An excellent, modern, dim-sum restaurant on the 5th floor of Luóhú Commercial City. Tables are a little close together, but the environment is pleasant and service is warm.
DōngméndīngMARKET$
(东门町美食街; Dōngméndīng Měishíjiē MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0755 8884 6001; Renmin Beilu; 人民北路 h9am-9pm; mLǎojiē)
If you want to try street food that's cleaned up and smartened up, this is the place. Three undercover strips have elaborate snacks such as crab claws, spicy coriander and yellow bean crêpes, hand-pulled noodles, squid skewers and everything else you might have seen on the street, but with seating. Look for the faux-ancient gates.
West Lake SpringZHEJIANG$$
(西湖春天; Xīhú Chūntiān GOOGLE MAP ; %0755 8211 6988; 3019 Sungang Donglu, 2nd-3rd fl, Parkway Tower; dishes ¥21-260; h10am-11pm; g18, get off at Xīhú Bīnguǎn)
This Hángzhōu restaurant gets the thumbs-up from locals. Signature dishes such as Lóngjǐng Xiārén (龙井虾仁; stir-fried freshwater shrimp with Longjing tea leaves; ¥88) and Sòngsǎo Yúgēng (宋嫂鱼羹; yellow croaker soup; small/large ¥48/58) are delicately flavoured like they should be. There's no English menu but the Chinese menu has pictures.
Phoenix HouseDIM SUM, CANTONESE$$
(凤凰楼; Fènghuánglóu GOOGLE MAP ; %0755 8207 6338, 0755 8207 6688; 4002 Huaqiang Beilu, East Wing, Pavilion Hotel, 华强北路4002号 lunch ¥60-80, dinner ¥100-350; h7.30am-11pm; mHuáqiánglù, exit A)
One of the best Cantonese restaurants in town, but expect noisy waits for 30 minutes or more after 11.30am. Some of the dim sum can be ordered by the piece – good when you’re dining alone.
6Drinking & Nightlife
There is plenty of glitz in town but most clubs in tall buildings are just flashes in the pan and it can be difficult to find a place to drink that isn't just a show of wealth. The OCT-LOFT arts complex is the best bet for small places with personality.
YīdùtángBAR
(一渡堂 %0755 8610 6046; Enping Lu, Block F3, OCT-LOFT, Huáqiáochéng, Nánshān District; h11.30am-2am; mQiáochéngdōng, exit A)
International and local indie bands play almost every night after 10pm at this warehouse-turned-bohemian-haunt in OCT-LOFT. It's a pleasant place with large glass panes, a soaring ceiling (from which chandeliers hang) and velvet armchairs placed next to brick walls. During the day it's an upmarket cafe.
3Entertainment
Brown Sugar JarLIVE MUSIC
(红糖罐子; Hóngtáng Guànzi Tairan Jiulu, Fútián District, ground fl, Block 2, Huángguān Kējìyuán; tickets ¥40-120; h2pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; mChēgōngmiào, exit C)
Sandwiched between a garage and a hair salon near the entrance of Crown Technology Park (皇冠科技園; Huángguān Kējìyuán), this loft-like bar is where local and foreign indie bands play every weekend from 9pm. Run by young musicians, it sports eclectic furniture and paintings displayed on bare concrete walls.
At the metro exit, turn right and walk to the end of the road, then make a left. You should see the park entrance on your right after two minutes.
INDIE MUSIC FESTIVALS
Shēnzhèn's indie music scene is rocking, and there's irrefutable proof – China's largest indie music events, Strawberry Music Festival (草莓音乐节; Căoméi Yīnyuè Jié www.modernsky.com) and Midi Music Festival (谜笛音乐节; Midí Yīnyuè Jié www.midifestival.com), have had Shēnzhèn editions since 2013–14. Both events feature the strongest bands from China, Taiwan and Hong Kong performing for three days. Midi takes place on New Year's Eve/New Year's Day and Strawberry is usually in May. Check their websites for details.
7Shopping
oOld Heaven BooksBOOKS
(旧天堂书店; Jiùtiāntáng Shūdiàn %0755 8614 8090; [email protected]; Room 120, Block A5, OCT-LOFT, Huáqiáochéng, Nánshān District; h11am-10pm; mQiáochéngdōng, exit A)
A delicious bookstore specialising in cultural and academic titles, that also doubles as a music store (vinyls anyone?). Gigs sometimes take place in the adjoining cafe. Located in the northern section of the OCT-LOFT arts complex, it's up the street perpendicular to the music space B10 Live House, on the left-hand side.
Dàfēn Oil Painting VillageARTS & CRAFTS
(大芬村; Dàfēncūn %0755 8473 2633; Dàfēn, Buji, Lónggǎng District; h9am-6pm; mDàfēncūn, exit A1)
A real eye-opener: 600 studios-cum-stores, churning out thousands of copies of Rembrandt, Renoir and Picasso paintings every week, and some original work, in laneways for all to see. Prices start from ¥200. Exit the metro and turn right until just after Walmart. Bus 306 from Shēnzhèn's Luóhú station takes you to the village in about an hour. A taxi costs around ¥80.
It's also a good place to stock up on art supplies, with prices about 50% cheaper than in downtown Shēnzhèn.
8Information
You can buy a five-day Shēnzhèn-only visa (¥168 for most nationalities, ¥469 for Brits; cash only) at the Luóhú border ( GOOGLE MAP ; Lo Wu; h8.45am-12.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm), Huángǎng (9am-1pm & 2.30-5pm) and Shékǒu (h8.45am-12.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm). US citizens must buy a visa in advance in Macau or Hong Kong.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; 2022 Jianshe Lu; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun)
You can use either Chinese rénmínbì or yuán ('¥') or Hong Kong dollars in Shēnzhèn, but the rise of the rénmínbì makes Hong Kong dollars less desired.
China PostPOST
(中国邮政; Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; 3040 Shennan Donglu; h8am-8pm)
China Travel ServiceTOURIST INFORMATION
(CTS; 中国旅行社; Zhōngguó Lǚxíngshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0755 8228 7644; 3023 Renmin Nanlu; h9am-6pm)
Great Land International Travel ServiceTOURIST INFORMATION
(巨邦国际旅行社; Jùbāng Guójì Lǚxíngshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0755 2515 5555; 3rd fl, Jùntíng Hotel, 3085 Shennan Donglu; h10am-6pm)
Good for air tickets.
HSBCBANK
(汇丰银行; Huìfēng Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; ground fl, Shangri-La Hotel, 1002 Jianshe Lu; 香格里拉大酒店, Xiānggélǐlā Dàjiǔdiàn h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat)
Internet CafeINTERNET
(网吧 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 3023 Renmin Nanlu; per hr ¥5; h10am-10pm)
Adjacent to the CTS.
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB; 公安局; Gōng’ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; %0755 2446 3999; 4018 Jiefang Lu; h24hr)
Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(深圳旅遊咨詢中心; Shēnzhèn Tourist Consultation Centre MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0755 8232 3045; ground fl, Shēnzhèn train station, east exit; h9am-6pm)
Free and reasonably detailed maps available on request. There’s another branch at Fútián Port that keeps the same hours.
8Getting There & Away
Shēnzhèn Airport Has flights to most major destinations around China.
Boat
Shékǒu Port (%0755 2669 1213) has services to Hong Kong (take the bus ( GOOGLE MAP ) to the port):
AHong Kong International Airport ¥260, 30 minutes, 14 daily (7.45am to 9pm)
AHong Kong–Macau Ferry Terminal, Central ¥120, one hour, six daily (7.45am, 10.15am, 11.45am, 2.15pm, 4.45pm and 7.15pm)
To Macau:
AMacau Maritime Ferry Terminal ¥190, one hour, 11 daily (8.15am to 7.30pm)
ATaipa Temporary Ferry Terminal ¥190, one hour, seven daily (9.30am to 7pm)
To Zhūhǎi:
&nb
sp; AJiǔzhōu Port ¥150, one hour, every 30 minutes (7.30am to 8.30pm)
Fúyǒng ferry terminal (福永码头; Fúyǒng Mǎtóu %0755 2345 5388) at Shēnzhèn Airport runs ferries to Hong Kong and Macau:
AMacau Maritime Ferry Terminal ¥222, 80 minutes, seven daily (8.15am to 6pm)
ASky Pier, Hong Kong International Airport ¥295, 40 minutes, four daily (8.35am, 11.30am, 3.30pm and 6.30pm)
Bus
Regular intercity buses leave from Luóhú bus station (罗湖汽车站; Luóhú Qìchēzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0755 8232 1670):
ACháozhōu ¥150, 5½ hours, three daily (8.30am, 1.40pm and 8pm)
AGuǎngzhōu ¥50 to ¥70, two hours, every 20 minutes (7am to 10pm)
AShàntóu ¥130 to ¥170, four to five hours, every 30 minutes (7.20am to 9.40pm)
AXiàmén ¥220 to ¥240, eight hours, six daily (9.30am, 11am, 7.30pm, 8.30pm, 9.30pm and 9.50pm)
For Hong Kong, book a long-distance bus with China Travel Tours Transportation Services (CTS; GOOGLE MAP ; %0755 2764 9803; www.hkctsbus.com).
Train
Services to Guǎngzhōu and Hong Kong leave from Luóhú train station to Guǎngzhōu East station (¥80, 1½ hours); and from Shēnzhèn North station (深圳北站; Shēnzhèn Běizhàn) in Lónghuá to Guǎngzhōu South station (¥80, 40 minutes).
The Mass Transit Railway (MTR) links Shēnzhèn with Hong Kong.
8Getting Around
Shēnzhèn has a good public transport network, with five metro lines (¥2 to ¥11), plus the Airport Express (Line 11), which opened in June 2016. Transit passes (深圳通; Shēnzhèn Tōng) can be bought in metro stations and are good for all services except taxis. Bus and minibus ( GOOGLE MAP ) fares cost ¥2 to ¥10.
To/From the Airport
Shēnzhèn’s airport, 36km west of the city, is connected to Luóhú by metro line 1 (¥9, 70 minutes). Metro line 11 is due to open in June 2016, connecting the airport with the city centre.
Airport bus departures are from Huálián Mansion (华联大厦, Huálián Dàshà GOOGLE MAP ; Shennan Zhonglu; g101, mKexue Guan, exit B2) and cost ¥20 (40 minutes, every 15 minutes, 5am to 9pm), and Luóhú train station in Luóhú (¥20, one hour, every 15 minutes, 7am to 10pm).
Buses leave from the local bus station west of the train station.
A taxi costs ¥180 to ¥200.
Taxi
Flag fall for taxis ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0755 8322 8000) costs ¥12.50 (¥16 from 11pm to 6am), with a ¥4 fuel surcharge and ¥2.40 for every additional kilometre.
Around Shēnzhèn
oGuānlán Original Printmaking BaseVILLAGE
(观澜版画原创产业基地; Guānlán Bǎnhuà Yuánchuàng Chǎnyè Jīde %0755 2978 2510; www.guanlanprints.com/en; Dàshuĭtián, Niúhú, Băo'ān District; g312, M258, M285, M288, M338, M339 to Guānlán Printmaking Base stop, mQīnghú, then bus M338, gB650, B768, B769, E4 to Guānlán Jiēdàobàn Zhàn, 观澜街道办站)F
At this 300-year-old village, rows of quaint black-and-white houses exuding a modest, functional elegance unique to Hakka architecture are occupied by the workshops and galleries of printmaking artists from China and overseas. The village, with its tree-lined paths and lotus ponds, is open all day, but the galleries keep different hours. The journey from downtown Shēnzhèn takes about 1½ hours. Check the website for exhibitions, events and detailed directions.
oDàpéng FortressVILLAGE
(大鹏所城; Dàpéng Suǒchéng %0755 8431 5618; Dàpéng Town, Lónggǎng District, 龙岗区大鹏市 adult/student & senior ¥20/10; h10am-6pm)
This walled town and lively village built 600 years ago lies on Shēnzhèn's eastern edge and was a key battle site in the Opium Wars of the 19th century. Stately mansions, fortress gates and ornate temples from the Ming and Qing dynasties are the main attractions. Having the place to yourself with very few visitors is another.
Board bus 360 at Yínhú bus station or near China Regency Hotel on Sungang Lu. The journey takes about 90 minutes. At Dàpéng bus station (大鹏总站; Dàpéng Zǒngzhàn) change to bus 966. A taxi from Luóhú costs ¥190.
Zhūhǎi 珠海
%0756 / Pop 1.6 million
Zhūhǎi (珠海) is close enough to Macau for a day trip without any maniacal driving. Never too hot or too frosty, Zhūhǎi is the just-right popular Chinese getaway – especially in summer – with plenty of seaside glitz. Yet it remains laid-back, and what helps it really shine is the natural beauty of its gardens and an attractive, relatively clean port.
1Sights
Lover's RoadSTREET
(情侣路; Qínglǚ Lù GOOGLE MAP )
This balmy promenade starts at Gŏngbĕi (拱北), at the border with Macau, and sweeps north for 28km along the coast, passing some of Zhūhăi's most coveted real estate. The section near Tángjiā Public Garden is the most beautiful. There are kite and bicycle rentals along the way, and snack booths at night.
4Sleeping
Zhūhǎi Holiday Resort Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(国际青年学生旅馆; Guójì Qīngnián Xuéshēng Lǚguǎn GOOGLE MAP ; %0756 333 3838; www.zhuhai-holitel.com; 9 Shihua Donglu; 石花东路9号 dm ¥65)
Hidden away inside the Zhūhǎi Holiday Resort (珠海度假村; Zhūhǎi Dùjiàcūn) in Jídà, this hostel has two eight-bed dorms. Take bus 99 to get there.
Jĭnjiāng InnINN$$
(锦江之星; Jǐnjiāng Zhīxīng GOOGLE MAP ; %0756 221 9899; 1058 Fenghuang Nanlu; 凤凰南路1058号 r ¥245-450; aW)
The best of several branches in Zhūhăi, this one is 50m from Lover's Road, and 300m from Wānzăishā Sq (湾仔沙广场; Wānzǐshā Guăngchăng). Rooms are bright and clean though those facing the street can be a tad noisy. Not all staff members speak English, but they're helpful and courteous. A reliable and affordable option.
5Eating
The GardenINTERNATIONAL$
(健康园餐饮; Jiànkāngyuán Cānyǐn GOOGLE MAP ; %0756 830 5190; www.thegarden.com.cn; Unit 3115, New Century Plaza, 376 Changsheng Lu, 昌盛路376号新世纪广场3115号 mains ¥38-60; h10.30am-11pm; aW)
If you're craving a break from Chinese food, the Garden might please you with some international bistro favourites, such as Greek feta salad, good steaks and salmon, couscous and a nice selection of wines.
May Flower RestaurantCANTONESE$$
(皇朝五月花大酒楼; Huángcháo Wǔyuèhuā Jiǔjiā GOOGLE MAP ; %0756 818 1111; 3 Rìdōng Guăngchăng, 日东广场3号 mains ¥32-400; h7.30am-11pm)
Where the middle classes go when they have important guests, this veteran of Zhūhăi's fine-dining scene serves up elaborately prepared seafood dishes, claypot goodies, and other Cantonese deliciousness, including, of course, dim sum.
3Entertainment
Zhūhăi Live BarLIVE MUSIC
(珠海現場酒吧; Zhūhăi Xiànchăng Jiŭbā GOOGLE MAP ; %0756 3352 580, 137 0232 9064; 45 Jidayuan Linlu; 吉大园林路45号 h7pm-late)
A dive bar that hosts local and overseas gigs nightly from 9pm within its graffitied walls. The music can be pop, rock and everything in between. It's across the road from Xìnhăi Building (信海大厦; Xìnhăi Dàxià), between Píngān Insurance Building (平安保险; Píngān Băoxiăn) and Chūnxīng Restaurant ( 春兴酒家; Chūnxīng Jiŭjiā). Get here by bus 23 or 43.
8Information
Visas (¥168 for most nationalities, ¥469 for Brits) valid for three days are available at the border (8.30am to 12.15pm, 1pm to 6.15pm, and 7pm to 10.30pm). US citizens must buy a visa in advance in Macau or Hong Kong.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Yingbin Nanlu & Yuehai Donglu; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun)
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; Lianhua Lu; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun)
China Travel ServiceTOURIST INFORMATION
(CTS; 中国旅行社; Zhōngguó Lǚxíngshè GOOGLE MAP ; %0756 889 9228; 2nd fl, Overseas Chinese Hotel, 2016 Yingbin Nanlu; h8am-8pm)
Public Secur
ity BureauPOLICE
(PSB; 公安局; Gōng’ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; %0756 888 5277; 1038 Yingbin Nanlu)
8Getting There & Away
Air
Zhūhǎi Airport (%0756 777 8888; www.zhairport.com) Serves various destinations in China, including Běijīng (¥1380), Shànghǎi (¥860) and Chéngdū (¥890).
Boat
Hong Kong–bound jetcats leave from Jiǔzhōu Port (九州港; Jiǔzhōu Gǎng GOOGLE MAP ; %0756 333 3359):
AChina Ferry Terminal, Kowloon ¥175, 70 minutes, six daily (8am to 5pm)
AHong Kong International Airport ¥290, one hour, four daily (9.30am, 12.40pm, 3.30pm and 6.30pm)
AHong Kong–Macau Ferry Terminal, Central ¥175, 70 minutes, nine daily (9am to 9.30pm)
Ferries leave Jiǔzhōu Port for Shēnzhèn’s port of Shékǒu (¥150, one hour, every 30 minutes, 8am to 9.30pm); ferries leave Shékǒu for Jiǔzhōu every 30 minutes (7.30am to 9.30pm).
Local buses 3, 4, 12, 23, 25 and 26 go to Jiǔzhōu Port.
Bus
Gǒngběi long-distance bus station (拱北长途汽车站; Gǒngběi Chángtú Qìchēzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0756 888 5218; Lianhua Lu) at Gǒngběi Port ( GOOGLE MAP ) runs regular buses between 6am and 9.30pm:
Lonely Planet China Page 118
