The most direct way to get here is on the bus that runs down the eastern expressway between Hǎikǒu and Sānyà: ask the driver to drop you off at the exit for Rì Yuè, from where it’s a 500m walk down the ramp to the shore. Only the lower-class green buses will stop, so check when you buy a ticket. From Sānyà you’ll have to buy a ticket to Wànníng (万宁; ¥34, 1½ hours, every 40 minutes); from Hǎikǒu, buy one to Língshuǐ (陵水; ¥43, three hours, 7.15am, 11am, 3pm). You can also take a taxi from Xīnglóng for around ¥50.
If you're cycling down the eastern highway, note that the expressway (which runs closer to the coast here) blocks your access to the beach. A county road down the coast, which would be an attractive alternative, was still under construction in parts at the time of research.
SURFING ON HǎINáN
Surfing is slowly gaining a following in China, and Hǎinán is without question the centre of that budding scene. Conditions are never going to make this the next Indonesia, but every level, from beginner to advanced, can find suitable waves.
If you want to try your hand at the sport, Dàdōnghǎi and Hòuhǎi get decent waves from May to September and are suitable for absolute novices (especially quiet Hòuhǎi). Rì Yuè Bay (Sun & Moon Bay) is prime from November to January, but it’s possible to surf all year. With up to five breaks, the area is suitable for all levels; advanced surfers can try their luck on the Ghost Hotel waves. Unlike further south, Sun & Moon Bay gets a bit chilly and overcast in the winter months, so light wetsuits are recommended.
Rentals and lessons are available year-round through Surfing Hǎinán in Rì Yuè Bay and White Castle Club in Hòuhǎi. During summer you can find rentals and basic lessons in Sānyà at Sānyà Backpackers.
Sānyà 三亚
%0898 / Pop 580,500
China’s premier beach community claims to be the ‘Hawaii of China', but ‘Moscow on the South China Sea’ is more like it. The modern, hyper-developed resort city has such a steady influx of Russian vacationers these days that almost all signs are in Cyrillic as well as Chinese. Middle-class Chinese families are increasingly drawn to the golden shores of Sānyà (三亚) as well.
While the full 40km or so of coastline dedicated to tourism is usually referred to as Sānyà, the region is actually made up of three distinct zones. Sānyà Bay is home to the bustling city centre and a long stretch of beach and hotels aimed at locals and mainland holidaymakers. Busy, cheerfully tacky Dàdōnghǎi Bay, about 3km southeast, beyond the Lùhuítóu Peninsula, is where most Western travellers stay. A further 15km east, at exclusive Yàlóng Bay, the beach is first-rate, as is the line of plush international resorts.
Sānyà (Dàdōnghǎi)
1Sights
1Dàdōnghǎi BayC2
4Sleeping
2Golden Beach VillaC2
3Resort IntimeB2
4Sānyà BackpackersB1
6Drinking & Nightlife
5Dolphin Sports Bar & GrillC1
1Sights & Activities
Unsurprisingly for a beach resort, the vast majority of things to see and do revolve around sand, sea, shopping and after-hours entertainment. If you want to scuba dive or snorkel, May to August, before typhoon season, is the best time, though locals will tell you honestly that there is not that much to see in the water. Be aware that although beaches often have lifeguards they may not be properly trained.
Hòuhǎi BeachBEACH
(后海 )
A crescent-shaped sandy beach about 30km northeast of Dàdōnghǎi, Hòuhǎi is the place for those looking to get away from the crowds (though ironically it lies in the southern reach of Hǎitáng Bay where the scale of development must be seen to be believed). It’s the most low-key of the Sānyà area beaches and is a popular place for beginner surfers.
Bus 28 from the main road in Dàdōnghǎi (¥10, one hour) takes you to the beach. There’s a small village here, where every house doubles as a guesthouse, and plenty of small restaurants and fruit stands.
Sānyà BayBEACH
(三亚湾, Sānyà Wān )
The long sandy strip off the city centre at Sānyà Bay is where you’ll find crowds of mostly mainland Chinese tourists kicking back. In little covered areas locals play music, sing, write characters in the sand and so on. There’s a long pathway for strolling in the cool evenings, and if the tide is out a little, you can walk on the sand for many kilometres. In the evenings it’s fun to watch the lights on Phoenix Island (the awesome cruise-ship terminal).
Dàdōnghǎi BayBEACH
(大东海湾, Dàdōnghǎi Wān MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Dàdōnghǎi Bay sports a wider beach than Sānyà and has a shaded boardwalk running along most of its length. The setting, in a deep blue bay with rocky headlands, is simply gorgeous, but it does get busy here. At night, half the crowd is knocking back beers and eating crabs at the boardwalk restaurants, while the other half is still bobbing in the sea under the light of the moon.
Yàlóng BayBEACH
(亚龙湾, Yàlóng Wān; Asian Dragon Bay )
Yàlóng Bay is the most picture-perfect of Sānyà’s beaches, though jet skis and banana boats do buzz through (there are roped-off swimming areas in the shallows). This is resort central, with all the attendant luxuries. Budget travellers will want to head to the main plaza for fast-food and coconut stands.
China’s beaches are theoretically open to everyone, but at Yàlóng Bay there can be a quasi-official entry fee if you’re not staying at one of the beachfront resorts. To avoid any sporadically enforced fees, walk through one of the hotels rather than entering the beach from the main square. No one will bother you.
4Sleeping
A glut of hotel rooms makes even luxury resorts affordable in Sānyà. Dàdōnghǎi Bay is the place to head for midrange and budget lodgings catering to the international set. Hòuhǎi Beach has a row of beachside guesthouses and a backpacker vibe. The top-end resorts are at Yàlóng Bay, in a private area of palm-lined roads and landscaped grounds. Outside peak periods 30% to 60% discounts are common everywhere.
White Castle ClubGUESTHOUSE$
(百城堡冲浪俱乐部, Báichéng Bǎochōnglàng Jùlèbù %133 7994 6916, 0898 8882 7103; Hǎitáng Bay, 海棠湾 r from ¥190; aW)
This is the hub of Hòuhǎi’s nascent surf scene and a great place to base yourself if you’re keen to learn and make friends. The guesthouse backs on to the sand, with a hang-out spot that serves traveller staples like yoghurt, granola and pizzas. The rooms without sea views are a little damp.
In-house licensed instructors run intro courses of three daily, 1½-hour lessons (¥900 including board rental). Just board rental costs ¥150 per day. If you’re ready to splurge on your own, White Castle sells hand-shaped boards (from ¥8800). English spoken.
Sānyà BackpackersHOSTEL$
(三亚背包度假屋, Sānyà Bēibāo Dùjià Wū MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0898 8821 3963; www.sanyabackpackers.com; No 1 Type 1 Villa, Lu Ming Community, Haihua Lu, 海花路鹿鸣小区一型一号别墅, Dàdōnghǎi dm ¥75, s/d ¥200/240; aW)
This spick-and-span hostel is a more intimate and friendly place than others in town. Set in a whitewashed building in a residential compound it’s also an oasis. Simple backpacker dishes are available, and there’s a bar (which can get noisy) for hanging out in the evenings. Surf lessons and board rentals (¥150 per day) are available during the summer.
Golden Beach VillaHOTEL$$
(金沙滩海景度假别墅, Jīn Shātān Hǎijǐng Dùjià Biéshù MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0898 8821 2760; 11 Donghai Lu, 东海路11号, Dàdōnghǎi r from ¥268; aW)
Golden Beach Villa is not as fancy as the name suggests but it’s right on the beach. Rooms, which are enclosed in a walled-off garden, face the sea, and the upper floors have excellent views. Outside the busy season, you can roll up and bargain for a great rate.
Ritz-CarltonRESORT$$$
(丽思卡尔顿酒店, Lìsī Kǎěrdùn Jiǔdiàn %0898 8898 8888; www.ritzcarlton.com; Yàlóng Bay; r from ¥4000; paWs)
Wh
ile some of Yàlóng Bay’s palatial resorts can feel a bit like a ghost town due to Sānyà’s overbuilding, the Ritz is always abuzz. Well-heeled matrons sip tea on the grand patio, princelings splash down water slides in the kids’ pool, and young couples lie on the wide, sugar-white beach. Rooms are large and airy, all white linen and elegant mahogany.
Hotel PullmanHOTEL$$$
(三亚湾海居铂尔曼度假酒店, Sānyà Wānhǎi Jūbó'ěr Màndùjià Jiǔdiàn %0898 8855 5588; www.pullmanhotels.com; Yàlóng Bay; r from ¥2000; paWs)
Directly across the street from the ocean, what you give up in oceanfront views, you make up in savings at the Pullman. Ground-floor rooms have ‘swim up’ entrances to the pool, which surrounds an emerald interior courtyard. Kids will dig the water-slide area. Don’t expect five-star luxury, just solid midrange value and comfort.
Resort IntimeRESORT$$$
(湘投银泰度假酒店, Xiāngtóu Yíntài Dùjià Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0898 8821 0888; www.resortintime.com; 88 Haihua, 海花路88号, Dàdōnghǎi r from ¥1989; naWs)
This great little resort right by the beach has surprisingly large and leafy grounds with a barbecue area near the pool. The rooms aren’t the most spacious, but those with sea views are set at a perfect angle to take in the bay. Nonsmoking floors are available. Discounts of over 50% are common.
5Eating
The entire beachfront at Dàdōnghǎi is one long strip of restaurants, bars and cafes, most of which are overpriced and not terribly good, even if the overall atmosphere is cool, shady and scenic. When ordering seafood, be sure to settle on price beforehand – Sānyà has had some fairly infamous restaurant scams. The narrow alley Honghai Xiang has good street food.
oSānyà Market #1MARKET$
(第一市场, Dì Yī Shìchǎng GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jiefang Lu & Xinjian Lu, 解放路新建路路口, Sānyà h11am-2am)
Sānyà’s most popular market is ostensibly a place to bargain for cheap and colourful clothes and accessories, but its real appeal lies on the fringes, where food vendors set up shop. Stop for barbecued seafood, grilled corn and local sweets like qīngbǔliáng (清补凉; a cold sweet soup; ¥10) and chǎobīng (炒冰; fried ice, like sorbet; ¥25). Things really heat up after dark.
Casa Mia Italian RestaurantITALIAN$$
(卡萨米亚意大利餐厅, Kǎsà Mǐyà Yìdàlì Cāntīng %0898 8888 9828; 88 Sanya Wan Lu, 三亚湾路88号, Sānyà mains ¥58-98; h11.30am-10pm; W)
A jaded traveller might pooh-pooh the thought of finding top-notch Italian in a Chinese resort town. But they’d be wrong. Casa Mia has truly divine pizzas, pastas (try the special seafood linguine) and classics like veal scallopini. The wine list is nothing to sneeze at either. The terrace gets a nice breeze from Sānyà Bay across the street.
Bus 8 (¥2) from Dàdōnghǎi will take you here in 45 minutes; otherwise it’s about ¥50 in a taxi.
Baan Rim NamTHAI$$$
(水岸阁餐厅, Shuǐ Àn Gé Cāntīng %0898 8888 5088; http://sanya.anantara.com; 6 Donghai Lu, 小东海路6号, Anantara Resort, 安纳塔拉度假会 dishes from ¥108-268; hnoon-10pm; Wv)
Dine on Thai classics like curried crab, green papaya salad, and basil pork at this hushed and elegant restaurant in the Anantara Resort, a spa-like resort all done up in mirrors and dark wood. Service is extremely friendly. If it’s not too hot, opt to sit on the patio.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Most of the after-hours fun is in Sānyà and Dàdōnghǎi Bay. Times Coast Bar Street (时代海岸酒吧街, Shídài Hǎiàn Jiǔ Bā Jiē GOOGLE MAP ; Yuya Lu, 榆亚路 ), on Yuya Lu, where it crosses the river, is the nexus of Sānyà’s club scene.
Sunset BarCOCKTAIL BAR
(日落吧, Rì Luò Bā GOOGLE MAP ; 12 Yuhai Lu; 榆海路12号, Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 文华东方酒店 h11am-1am)
A two-for-one happy hour (5pm to 7pm) makes this terrace bar at the cool and collected Mandarin Oriental almost a good deal. Watch the sun drop behind the headland while sipping a signature ginger lycheetini (¥90). Smoothies from ¥60. A taxi from Dàdōnghǎi costs ¥10.
Dolphin Sports Bar & GrillPUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0898 8821 5700; www.sanyadolphin.com; 99 Yuya Lu, 榆亚路99号, Dàdōnghǎi beer from ¥25; h11am-2am)
International tourists and expats mingle with locals at this always-packed Western-style pub. Wash down a (very good) cheeseburger with a pint while watching football on the multiple TVs, or wait until after 10pm, when the live music starts up and the crowd really gets rolling. Friendly servers speak impeccable English.
8Information
Wi-fi is widely available in restaurants and cafes.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; 119 Yuya Lu, 榆亚路119号, Dàdōnghǎi h9am-5pm)
Changes travellers cheques and has a 24-hour ATM.
China PostPOST
(中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; 147 Yuya Lu, 榆亚路147号, Dàdōnghǎi h9am-5pm)
Dàdōnghǎi Air Ticket OfficeTICKETS
(蓝色海航空售票中心, Lánsèhǎi Hángkōng Shòupiào Zhōngxīn GOOGLE MAP ; %0898 8821 5557; 172 Yuya Lu, 榆亚路172号, Dàdōnghǎi h8am-9.30pm)
Air and rail tickets can be purchased from the air ticket office two bus stops east of Summer Mall (the stop is called Bayi Zhongxue).
Tourist Information CenterTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0898 8836 8826; 19 Yuya Lu, 榆亚路19号, Dàdōnghǎi h9am-9pm; W)
Has bilingual city maps of Sānyà. There’s usually someone at the counter who speaks English.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Sānyà’s Phoenix Airport (三亚凤凰国际机场; Sānyà Fèng Huáng Guójì Jīchǎng www.sanyaairport.com) has international flights to Singapore, Hong Kong, Malaysia, Thailand, Taiwan and Japan, as well as to Běijīng, Guǎngzhōu and Shànghǎi.
Bus
Frequent buses and minibuses to most parts of Hǎinán depart from the long-distance bus station (三亚汽车站; Sānyà Qìchēzhàn Jiefang Lu; 解放路 ), in busy central Sānyà.
ABǎotíng ¥20, 1½ hours, half-hourly
AHǎikǒu ¥80, 3½ hours, hourly
AQióngzhōng ¥48, four hours, 8.10am, 11am, 1.35pm, 3.30pm
AWànníng ¥30, two hours, hourly
High-Speed Train
The high-speed train station is far out of town. Bus 4 (¥2) runs there from Dàdōnghǎi, but takes over an hour. A taxi will cost ¥50 for a 20-minute ride.
AHǎikǒu ¥99, two hours, hourly
AQiónghǎi ¥49, one hour, hourly
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
Phoenix Airport is 25km from Dàdōnghǎi Bay. The airport is a stop on the new western high-speed rail line (¥8, 10 minutes to Sānyà), though trains are infrequent and the Sānyà train station is inconveniently located. Bus 8 (¥5, one hour) leaves for the airport from Yuya Lu. A taxi costs ¥70 to ¥80.
Bus
Buses 2 and 8 (¥2, frequent) travel from Sānyà bus station to Dàdōnghǎi Bay. From Dàdōnghǎi Bay to Yàlóng Bay, catch bus 15 (¥5, 45 minutes).
Taxi
Taxis charge ¥10 for the first 2km. A taxi from Sānyà to Dàdōnghǎi Bay costs ¥15 to ¥20, and from Dàdōnghǎi Bay to Yàlóng Bay it’s ¥70.
Xīnglóng 兴隆
%0898 / Pop 25,800
Xīnglóng (兴隆) is a hot-spring town that is home to communities of overseas Chinese who returned from Southeast Asia in the 1950s.
1Sights
Xīnglóng Tropical Botanical GardensGARDENS
(兴隆热带植物园, Xīnglóng Rèdài Zhíwùyuán h24hr)
What sounds like another of Hǎinán’s many tourist traps is actually a worthy retreat: a network of largely traffic-free lanes – where you're more likely to run into a butterfly than a motorbike – snaking through hills and between villages. Walk or cycle past clear springs, groves of mango trees and coffee plantations. Rental cycles (¥80 per day) are available at t
he Qiáo Xiāng Yìzhàn (桥乡驿站) cafe, which also serves excellent local coffee (¥5).
From Xīnglóng bus station, bus 4 (¥2, 20 minutes) runs to the garden entrance, or get a taxi to the cafe – all drivers should know it.
4Sleeping
There are several high-end hot-spring resorts in the vicinity, but otherwise Xīnglóng is best visited as a day trip from Sānyà.
5Eating
Tucking into authentic Southeast Asian food and sweets is the number one reason to visit Xīnglóng.
Xīng Xīn GéINDONESIAN$$
(兴欣阁 Xingmei Dadao, 兴梅大道 dishes ¥45-75; h11am-9pm)
There’s no menu here: just pop into the kitchen and point to whichever of the Indonesian-style stews and curries looks (or smells!) the best. In the afternoon, stop by for coffee and qī céng gāo (七层糕), 'seven layer’ steamed cakes flavored with coffee and isatis leaf. The restaurant is on the right of the entrance to the Xīnglóng Tropical Botanical Gardens.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Xīnglóng is the locus of Hǎinán’s unexpected – and unexpectedly good – cafe scene. When the coffee shops close up around dusk, though, it’s a quiet place.
Lín Qīng GéCOFFEE
(林清阁 1 Gonghui Lu, 工会路1号 h6am-4pm)
In the 1950s a number of overseas Chinese returned from Southeast Asia and settled in Xīnglóng – bringing coffee back with them. Downtown Xīnglóng, around the Xīnglóng Trade Union (兴隆工会; Xīnglóng Gōnghuì) bus stop, is full of cafes selling local coffee (¥5) and Indonesian-style sweets. Lín Qīng Gé has won the local coffee competition several years running.
Lonely Planet China Page 123
