Détiān Waterfall 德天瀑布
Détiān WaterfallWATERFALL
(德天瀑布; Détiān Pùbù; Ban Gioc Waterfall GOOGLE MAP ; ¥80)
Détiān Waterfall belongs to the Chūnguī River (春归河, Chūnguīhé), which flows between China and Vietnam. The river is only 30m across in this upstream section, which means that people on both sides can see each other going about their business. It's not grand like Niagara Falls, but it is the largest falls spanning two countries in Asia, with the added buzz of being surrounded by karst peaks. The best months to see the waters in their full glory are between July and November.
The falls drop in three stages to create cascades and small pools. Swimming is not allowed, but bamboo rafts (¥30) will take you up to the spray. You can also legally cross the Vietnamese border at the 53rd merestone – tourists love doing selfies stepping into what's officially Vietnamese territory.
There is only one direct bus from Nánníng’s International Tourism Distribution Centre (¥75, 3½ hours, 7.40am), which stops en route at Lángdōng bus station (8.30am); otherwise you will have to take a bus (¥55, regular, 2½ hours) first to Dàxīn (大新) from Nánníng. At Dàxīn, switch to a bus headed to Détiān (德天; ¥20, two hours, hourly); a cab costs around ¥110.
The last bus leaves for Dàxīn at around 5.30pm. Regular buses run from Dàxīn to Nánníng until 8.30pm. The direct bus from the falls back to Nánníng leaves at 3.30pm.
Tōnglíng Grand Canyon 通灵大峡谷
Tōnglíng Grand CanyonCANYON
(通灵大峡谷; Tōnglíng Dàxiá Gǔ %0771 618 0076; ¥90; h8am-5pm)
Located in Bǎisè city (百色市), Jìngxī County (靖西县), the name of this gorge means 'Connected to the Spirit World'. You will certainly feel spiritual as you descend narrow flights of stairs down to a large cavern, with flickering bulbs and the roar of an underground river. Emerging past the cave, you venture through a thick tropical forest into a series of wild gorges, and past vaulted cliffs with hanging stalactites and dramatic waterfalls that end in crystal pools framed by boulders.
You can walk around some of the waterfalls into the cool, other-worldly caves beyond. But you can't go near the tallest one, which has a drop of 170m and a splash of hundreds of metres in the summer.
From the canyon's exit, walk 30 minutes uphill to the entrance car park, where you can ask your driver to meet you. Alternatively, vans can take you there for ¥5.
There are buses from Jìngxī south bus station that make the hour-long trip (¥10) to the canyon every 20 to 30 minutes until 7pm. Look for those headed for Húrùn town (湖润镇; Húrùnzhèn).
Buses (¥124) depart every 40 minutes between 8.50am and 6.50pm from Nánníng Lángdōng bus station for Jìngxī. Nánníng's Lángdōng bus station runs tour buses (¥55) to Dàxīn (大新) that stop at the canyon.
Lèyè 乐业
%0776 / Pop 157,000
Guǎngxī's highest county, Lèyè (乐业) is perched on the western edge of the province, a fine springboard to the surrounding underground caves, primeval forests and natural sinkholes, and an opportunity to get off the beaten path to a less-visited part of the province.
1Sights
Not a large place at all, peaceful Lèyè belongs to Bǎisè city (百色市), which also administers Jìngxī County (靖西县) where Tōnglíng Grand Canyon is located. Allow a day or two to visit the area's impressive sights.
You can buy a combo ticket (¥158) for the two sinkholes of Lèyè Geopark and the Lotus Cave; just for the sinkholes (¥118); or for Dàshíwēi Sinkhole and the Lotus Cave (¥128).
oLèyè GeoparkNATURE RESERVE
(乐业世界地质公园; Lèyè Shìjiè Dìzhì Gōngyuán www.lfgeopark.com; ¥158; h8.30am-5pm)
There are 28 naturally formed and highly impressive sinkholes (天坑; tiānkēng) here, including six major ones; the remainder are large and medium-sized, with a handful of smaller sinkholes amid an environment of karst landforms, caves, underground rivers and dramatic geological features.
Luómèi Lotus CaveCAVE
(罗妹莲花洞; Luōmeì Liánhuā Dòng Tongle Lu; 同乐路 ¥80; h8am-5pm)
This 970m-long cave, once an underground river, shelters the world's largest collection of lotus-shaped limestone formations, illuminated by colourful lights (in a way that spoils their natural beauty). The cave is handily located 200m north of the bus station.
oChuāndòng SinkholeCAVE
(穿洞天坑; Chuāndòng Tiānkēng Lèyè Geopark; 乐业世界地质公园 ¥75; hto 5.30pm)
A two-hour hike takes you past limestone caves, primeval vegetation and an underground river in this sinkhole that reaches 312m in height. Trek to the sinkhole's bottom via an ethereal-looking cavern with a hole in its roof: on sunny days at noon, a shaft of light shines through the hole to illuminate the cavern floor.
There's no bus to Chuāndóng Sinkhole, but if you go to Dàshíwēi Sinkhole, the staff can arrange a driver to take you there and back to the city centre for ¥80 to ¥100 a car (seats four).
Dàshíwēi SinkholeCAVE
(大石围天坑; Dàshíwēi Tiānkēng Lèyè Geopark; 乐业世界地质公园 ¥98; h8am-5.30pm)
From the ticket office here, you're transferred to an electric cart for a 20-minute ride to what resembles a deep meteor crater; it's an astonishing sight. Follow the path to one of three viewing platforms at the top for cloud-level views of the surrounding karst ranges.
Every 20 to 30 minutes, between 8am and 4.30pm, a bus leaves Lèyè for Dàshíwēi Sinkhole. Catch it at a large temporary car park diagonally opposite the People's Hospital (人民医院; Rénmín Yīyuàn). The car park is accessible via a small alley. The 30-minute ride costs ¥4.30.
SKY PITS
Sinkholes, known as 天坑 (tiānkēng), literally 'sky pits' in Chinese, are depressions in the land caused by the collapse of the surface layer. This happens when bedrock made of a soluble substance such as limestone is eroded by underground water, forming caves that perforate the interior rock, which may eventually collapse inwards. Some sinkholes have openings into the caves below or to the underground rivers that have eroded its interior. Some are also carpeted by primeval forests that have sought purchase upon them.
4Sleeping
There are several hotels where foreigners can stay, so you won't be stuck without a roof or bed for the night. Rooms start at around ¥75 and come with air-con and ensuite bathrooms. Xingle Lu is a good place to start looking.
City Comfort InnHOTEL$$
(城市便捷酒店; Chéngshì Biànjié Jiǔdiàn %0776 255 9888; unit 1, Bldg 4, Lètiān Gardens District; 乐天花园小区第4栋1单元 r ¥166-199)
Small, bright and comfortable rooms in a small hotel next to Mínzú Middle School (民族中学).
8Getting There & Away
There are two daily buses from Nánníng Lángdōng bus station (¥120, six hours) at 10.10am and 7.20pm. The main station in Lèyè is on the southern end of Tongle Lu (同乐路) and the town is 1km north. The best way to get around is via pedicab – short rides cost about ¥8.
Détiān's Húrùn Town Bus Station (湖润镇客运汽车站; Húrùnzhèn Kèyùn Qìchēzhàn) also runs buses to Jìngxī (靖西) every 20 minutes (¥10); Jìngxī has frequent buses to Bǎisè (¥60, 3½ hours).
Regular daily buses depart from Lèyè for:
ABǎisè (the regional hub where you can connect to southern destinations such as Dàxīn and Guǎngdōng) ¥60, three to four hours, 12.30pm to 8pm
ANánníng ¥120, six hours, twice daily
8Getting Around
The easiest way to see the sights in Lèyè is to hire a pedicab for the day (¥200 to ¥250). Ask the driver: Bāochē yìtiān yào duō shǎo? 包车一天要多少? (How much is it to hire your car with chauffeur service for a day?).
Guìzhōu
Guiyang
Qingyan
Kil
Basha
Leishan
Longl
Xijiang
&n
bsp; Zhaoxing
Zhenyun
Around Zhenyun
Anshun
Around Anshun
Weining
Chishu
Guìzhōu
Pop 35.1 million
Why Go?
It's hard to call Guìzhōu (贵州) underrated as a travel destination when it's largely unknown to travellers outside China entirely – and what a travesty of justice. The province has two of the country's largest and most spectacular natural features – a waterfall and a cave – while outside the capital, Guìyáng, it's pretty much green hills and valleys, flowing rivers and limestone formations to the horizon. There's even a 'bamboo sea'.
Guìzhōu's people are as diverse as its environment. Around 37% of the province’s population consists of more than 18 ethnic minorities. Flitting around the Dong and Miao villages in the east of the province is like an anthropological dream sequence. Nearby is the ancient riverside settlement of Zhènyuǎn, as striking as Guìlín to the south, where Chinese tourists chuckle into their hot-and-spicy sour fish soup that they still have it all to themselves.
When to Go
AJan Follow the birdsong to Cǎohǎi Lake, where birdwatchers flock each winter.
AJul & Aug Immerse yourself in the spray of 4000 waterfalls emerging from a bamboo forest.
AOct & Nov Toast the Miao New Year in the traditional villages around Kǎilǐ.
Best Places to Eat
A Old Kaili Sour Fish Restaurant
A Sìhéyuàn
A Anshun Night Market
Best Places to Sleep
A Dàhéguān Hotel
A He House Art Hotel
A Indigo Lodge
A Double Tree Hilton
A River View Private Hotel
Guìzhōu Highlights
1 Huángguǒshù Falls Rafting in the wash of China’s largest waterfall, and hiking the nearby region.
2 Zhènyuǎn River-cruising through a charming 2000-year-old settlement.
3 Zhījīn Cave Descending into the spectacular largest cavern in China.
4 Kǎilǐ Hopping between the Miao villages located around here.
5 Chìshuǐ Getting way off the beaten track in prehistoric fern forests.
6 Festivals Partying with the locals at one of the thousand-odd celebrations held in Guìzhōu each year.
History
Chinese rulers set up an administration in this area as far back as the Han dynasty (206 BC–AD 220), but it was merely an attempt to maintain some measure of control over Guìzhōu's non-Han tribes.
It wasn’t until the Sino-Japanese war, when the Kuomintang made Chóngqìng their wartime capital, that the development of Guìzhōu began. Most of this activity ceased at the end of WWII; industrialisation of the area wasn’t revived until the Chinese Communist Party (CCP) began construction of the railways.
Despite an expanding mining industry, Guìzhōu's GDP per capita remains the lowest in all China.
8Getting There & Away
Air
You can fly to more than 40 destinations within China from the squeaky clean and spacious Guìyáng Lóngdòngbǎo International Airport, including all major Chinese cities plus direct flights to Taipei (Taiwan), Hong Kong, Bangkok, Seoul and Singapore.
Bus
Guìyáng and Chóngqìng are linked by an expressway. Another expressway links Guìyáng with Kūnmíng, via Huángguǒshù Falls. Yúnnán is also accessible – though less comfortably – by bus via Wēiníng in the west. You can reach Guǎngxī through Cóngjiāng in the southeastern part of the province from Guǎngxī.
Secondary roads in the northeast and west in particular can be less than ideal.
Train
Sleeper trains to Chéngdū, Kūnmíng and Guìlín are popular. Guìyáng is also now linked by high-speed rail to Chéngdū (15 to 16 hours) and Guǎngzhōu (four to five hours). You can enter Guìzhōu by train from Húnán through the back door from Huáihuà to Zhènyuǎn.
Central Guìzhōu
Guìyáng 贵阳
%0851 / Pop 3.1 million
Guìyáng (贵阳) is an unpretentious, relatively youthful provincial capital under seemingly continual construction. While it may not leap out at the traveller, there are some interesting sights and affordable fine hotels, and the city's location makes it a perfect base for exploring the surrounding southern countryside, especially Huángguǒshù Falls, the ethnic villages around Kǎilǐ, and historic Zhènyuǎn.
The city passed through the hands of various warring states until it became established during the Yuan dynasty in 1283. While Guìyáng has not featured prominently in the annals of Chinese history, it has since emerged from the smoke of the country's industrial boom.
Guìyáng
1Sights
1Cuìwēi GōngyuánD4
2Hóngfú TempleA1
3Jiǎxiù PavilionD4
4Sleeping
4Hàntíng ExpressB5
5He House Art HotelD2
5Eating
6Old Kaili Sour Fish RestaurantD3
7SìhéyuànC2
8Tree KitchenC4
6Drinking & Nightlife
9Highlands CoffeeC4
10Hobo'sC2
1Sights
Hóngfú TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(弘福寺; Hóngfú Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥2, cable car one-way/return ¥15/20; h7am-6pm, cable car 9am-5pm)
Guìyáng's best attraction is a temple complex hidden inside mountainous Qiánlíng Park to the north of the city. Near the top of 1300m Qiánlíng Shān, Hóngfú Temple dates back to the 17th century and is reached via an easy 40-minute walk (or a cable car if you don't feel up to it). The on-site monastery has a decent vegetarian restaurant in the rear courtyard. From the train station area, take bus 2.
Cuìwēi GōngyuánBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(翠微公园 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h8am-11pm)F
This city park features a restored Ming dynasty temple with some picturesque pavilions. It's a pleasant place to find some respite from the city noise.
Jiǎxiù PavilionNOTABLE BUILDING
(甲秀楼; Jiǎxiù Lóu MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h8.30am-6.30pm)F
Constructed during the Ming dynasty in 1598, this triple-roofed pavilion perched atop a boulder is Guìyáng's most iconic landmark. Built to celebrate the local people as 'the finest and most talented under heaven', the structure contains slabs of marble and an impressive art and calligraphy collection.
TTours
Organised tours (in Chinese) to Huángguǒshù Falls and Lónggōng Caves leave daily from a special tourist bus station opposite Qiánlíng Building (hourly, from 7am to 8pm). There are far fewer tours in the winter months.
4Sleeping
Guìyáng has a few reasonable hostels, and a host of business hotels. The high-end places offer the best value, especially out in the new economic zone of Jìnyáng, 15km northwest of the centre.
Guìyáng Shu HostelHOSTEL$
(贵阳墅国际青年驿栈; Guìyáng Shù Guójì Qīngnián Yìzhàn %181 9828 7383; 86 Wujin Lu; 乌金路86号 dm ¥50)
Quiet and friendly hostel run by a bilingual Singaporean expat has clean dorm rooms, spacious shared bathrooms and loads of useful information on travelling around the province. If coming from Guìyáng North train station, catch bus 261.
Hàntíng ExpressHOTEL$$
(汉庭连锁酒店; Hàntíng Liánsuǒ Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0851 855 1888; www.htinns.com; 372 Jiefang Lu; 解放路372号 tw & d ¥219-239; aiW)
In a central but fairly uneventful part of town, this efficient chain hotel is a good-value 'overnighter' for singles. Rooms are spotless (if a little tight), and free coffee awaits guests in the lounge. Walk north up Zunyi Lu and turn left along Jiefang Lu; it’s on the far side of the road.
oHe House Art HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(贵阳和舍艺术精品酒店; Guìyáng Héshè Yìshù Jīngpǐn Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0851 682 5888; www.hehousehotel.com; 219 Baoshanbei Lu; 宝山北路219号 d from ¥530; paW)
Gu
ìyáng's independent hotel scene has been lifted in one grand sweep by this large white gallery space in a converted building in the city's east. Open-plan rooms are oversized and crisply prepared with original artworks and bathroom amenities. Service is earnest but knowledgeable about the city. The on-site restaurant has a limited selection; breakfast buffet has a colourful continental variety.
PRICES RANGES
SLEEPING
$ less than ¥200
$$ ¥200–¥400
$$$ more than ¥400
EATING
$ less than ¥50
$$ ¥50–¥100
$$$ more than ¥100
5Eating
North of the train station and Jiefang Lu, Zunyi Xiang (遵义巷) is a lively and busy food street of hotpot, Sìchuān and Jiāchángcài restaurants, which all shut around 10pm.
SìhéyuànGUIZHOU$
(四合院 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0851 682 5419; Qianling Lu; 黔灵路 mains from ¥15; hnoon-9.30pm)
Here's the quintessential local restaurant writ large, thanks to consistent Guìzhōu cuisine in an unpretentious setting. Hundreds of tables are squeezed in among the alleys off Zhonghua Beilu as diners feast year-round on the 200-plus spicy dishes on the menu. Just ask for recommendations. It's opposite the large red-crossed Protestant Church on Qianling Lu.
Lonely Planet China Page 130
