In recent years, domestic tourists have discovered Dàlǐ in a big way and the scene has changed accordingly. Instead of dreadlocked Westerners, it's young Chinese who walk around with flowers in their hair. Still, Dàlǐ has not been overwhelmed by visitors like nearby Lìjiāng and remains a reasonably relaxed destination, with the local Bai population very much part of daily life.
Surrounding Dàlǐ there are fascinating possibilities for exploring, especially by bicycle and in the mountains above the lake, or you can do what travellers have done for years – eat, drink and make merry.
History
Dàlǐ lies on the western edge of Ěrhǎi Lake at an altitude of 1900m, with a backdrop of the imposing 4000m-tall Cāng Shān (Green Mountains). For much of the five centuries in which Yúnnán governed its own affairs, Dàlǐ was the centre of operations, and the old city retains a historical atmosphere that is hard to come by in other parts of China.
The main inhabitants of the region are the Bai, who number about 1.5 million and are thought to have settled the area some 3000 years ago. In the early 8th century they succeeded in defeating the Tang imperial army before establishing the Nanzhao kingdom, which lasted until the Mongol hordes arrived in the mid-13th century.
Dàlǐ
1Sights
1Dàlǐ Catholic ChurchC3
2Activities, Courses & Tours
2Climb DàlǐA3
3Rice & FriendsB5
4Sleeping
4Dàlǐ Spoor Youth HostelC2
5Dragonfly GuesthouseC1
6Five ElementsA4
7Four Seasons Travelling With HotelD2
8Jade EmuA4
9Jim's Tibetan HotelB5
10Sleepyfish LodgeD1
5Eating
11Birdbar CafeA3
12Cāng Ěr ChūnB3
13CháimǐduōC2
14Duan's KitchenD2
15Good PandaB3
16Lovely Lotus Delicious VegetarianB3
17SerendipityB2
6Drinking & Nightlife
18Bad MonkeyB3
7Shopping
19Mandarin Books & CDsA3
1Sights
Dàlǐ Catholic ChurchCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off Renmin Lu)
It's worth checking out Dàlǐ’s Catholic Church. Dating back to 1927, it's a unique mix of Bai-style architecture and classic European church design. Mass is held here every Sunday at 9.30am.
Three PagodasPAGODA
(三塔寺; Sān Tǎ Sì admission ¥120; h8.30am-6.30pm)
Absolutely the symbol of the town and region, these pagodas, a 2km walk north of the north gate, are among the oldest standing structures in southwestern China. The tallest of the three, Qiānxún Pagoda, has 16 tiers that reach a height of 70m. It was originally erected in the mid-9th century by engineers from Xī’ān. It is flanked by two smaller 10-tiered pagodas, each of which are 42m high.
While the price is cheeky considering you can’t go inside the pagodas, Chóngshèng Temple (Chóngshèng Sì) behind them has been restored and converted into a relatively worthy museum.
2Activities
Climb DàlǐCLIMBING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %131 5064 4701; www.climbdali.com; 20 Renmin Lu)
This outfit runs active adventures around Dàlǐ, including rock climbing, mountaineering, kayaking and rafting trips. Contact Adam Kritzer.
CCourses
Rice & FriendsCOOKING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %151 2526 4065; www.riceandfriends.com)
Recommended cooking school that includes trips to markets to purchase ingredients and tips on preparation, as well as cooking classes.
TTours
China Minority TravelCULTURAL
(%138 8723 5264; [email protected])
Henriette, a Dutch expat, can offer a long list of trips, including tours to Muslim and Yi minority markets as well as through remote areas of Yúnnán and Guìzhōu.
Zouba ToursBICYCLE TOUR, HIKING
(%152 8814 5939; www.zoubatours.com)
Bike tours and treks to the less-visited parts of Yúnnán.
Tibet Motorcycle AdventuresMOTORCYCLE TOUR
(%151 8499 9452; www.tibetmoto.de)
Motorbikes can be rented for ¥150 per day and tours (although not to Tibet) arranged. Contact Hendrik Heyne.
zFestivals & Events
Third Moon FairCULTURAL
(三月节; Sānyuè Jié )
Merrymaking – along with endless buying, selling and general horse-trading (but mostly partying) – takes place during the Third Moon Fair, which begins on the 15th day of the third lunar month (usually April) and ends on the 21st day.
Three Temples FestivalCULTURAL
(绕三灵; Ràosān Líng )
The Three Temples Festival is held between the 23rd and 25th days of the fourth lunar month (usually May).
Torch FestivalCULTURAL
(火把节; Huǒbǎ Jié )
The Torch Festival is held on the 24th day of the sixth lunar month (normally July) and is likely to be the best photo op in the province. Flaming torches are paraded at night through homes and fields. Locals throw pine resin at the torches causing minor explosions everywhere. According to one local guesthouse owner, ‘it’s total madness’.
4Sleeping
There’s heaps of accommodation in Dàlǐ, but the popular places fill up quickly during peak summer months. Increasingly, the most in-demand guesthouses are located just outside the west gate of the old town, or close to the east gate.
oJade EmuHOSTEL$
(金玉缘中澳国际青年旅舍; Jīnyùyuán Zhōng’ào Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0872 267 7311; www.jade-emu.com; West Gate Village; 西门村 dm ¥25-40, d ¥128-298; aiW)
Smack in the shadow of Cāng Shān and now spread over four buildings, the Jade Emu sets the standard for hostels in Dàlǐ and elsewhere with its attention to detail. The dorms are more comfortable than most and the private rooms are spacious, clean and bright, while the new boutique annexe is perfect for flashpackers. Staff are efficient and friendly.
Dragonfly GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(清亭国际青年旅舍; Qīngtíng Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0872 250 4255; www.dalidragonfly.com; 200 Pingdeng Rd; 平等路200号 6-/4-bed dm ¥35/40, s ¥110/148; aiW)
This newish guesthouse gets rave reviews, and the dorm beds are certainly some of the most comfortable in Dàlǐ. But all the rooms are sizeable and have decent bathrooms, while there's a roof terrace with views towards the lake and mountains and a basic restaurant. It's 15 minutes' walk from the centre of town at the northern end of Yeyu Lu.
Dàlǐ Spoor Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(大理十步国际青年旅舍; Dàlǐ Shíbù Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0872 251 4476; [email protected]; 121 Yeyu Lu; 叶榆路121号 dm ¥35-40, s ¥80, d ¥110-190; aiW)
The anonymous white exterior doesn't promise much, but there's an attractive garden courtyard here. The four-bed dorms are cramped, but the private rooms are a reasonable size and well-maintained and the bathrooms OK. It sees mostly Chinese travellers, but some English is spoken.
Four Seasons Travelling With HotelHOTEL$
(四季客栈; Sìjì Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0872 267 4507; 428 Renmin Lu; 人民路428号 s ¥58, d ¥138-248; aW)
With a large, interior courtyard, this place has a mix of rooms with the cheapest being on the roof terrace, which offers fine views towards the surrounding mountains. Singles are small, but all the rooms are modern and some have beds raised off the floor. The staff speak some English and you can rent a bike for ¥20 a day.
Sleepyfish LodgeHOSTEL$
(大理乐游客栈; Dàlǐ Lèyóu Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0872 267 8040; www.sleepyfishlodge.com; Yu'er Lu; 玉洱路东 dm ¥50, d ¥248-288; W)
Well away from Dàlǐ's main tourist strip near Dongmen, Sleepyfish is all about peace and quiet. Rooms lack TVs, but come with balconies overlooking a garden and are a big step up from the more functional dorms.
It's close to the east gate, down an alley off the right-hand side of Yu Er Lu just before the ornamental gate: signs point the way.
Bike-hire is available from ¥25 a day; you may need one as it's a good 20 minute walk to the centre of town.
Five ElementsHOSTEL$
(五行国际客栈; Wǔ Xíng Guójì Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %130 9985 0360; [email protected]; 西门村; West Gate Village 6-/4-bed dm ¥30/45, d ¥80-260; aiW)
This place has a popular following with backpackers, thanks to the low prices and friendly vibe. Dorms need more storage space but are reasonably sized, while the private rooms are a decent deal for the price. The best are very comfortable and set around a pleasant garden where the manager grows organic veggies. Bike hire is ¥30 per day.
Jim’s Tibetan HotelHOTEL$$
(吉姆和平酒店; Jímǔ Hépíng Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0872 267 7824; [email protected]; 13 Yuxiu Lu; 玉秀路13号 d ¥300-500; aW)
The rooms here are some of the most distinctive in Dàlǐ, coming with Tibetan motifs and packed with antique Chinese-style furniture, even if the bathrooms are looking their age now. There’s also a garden, rooftop terrace, restaurant and bar. Travel services and tours can be booked, while bikes and scooters can be hired.
5Eating
Bai food makes use of local flora and fauna – many of which are unrecognisable! Specialities include rǔbǐng (goat’s cheese) and ěr kuài (饵块; toasted rice ‘cakes’). Given the proximity of Ěrhǎi Lake, try shāguō yú (沙锅鱼), a claypot fish casserole/stew made from salted Ěrhǎi Lake carp – and, as a Bai touch, magnolia petals.
Lovely Lotus Delicious VegetarianCHINESE$
(爱莲说素膳; Ài Lián Shuō Sùshàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0872 533 7737; B2, Jiulongju, west side of Fuxing Lu; 复兴路西侧九隆居B2号 buffet ¥20; h11.30am-1.30pm & 6-8pm; v)
No menu here; instead you choose from a tempting buffet of all-vegetarian dishes. It bustles at lunchtimes and there's a small outside area to eat at. It's just off Boai Lu on the right-hand side of a forecourt.
Good PandaYUNNAN$
(妙香园; Miàoxiāng Yuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 81 Renmin Lu; 人民路81号 dishes from ¥18; h9am-10pm)
Surrounded by Western-style restaurants, this is a more local joint and a good introduction to classic Dàlǐ eats like sizzling beef (tíebǎn niúròu) and crispy carp (jiànchuān gānshāo yú), plus Yúnnán-wide food and some Sìchuān dishes. There’s a limited English menu, but some English is spoken and you can point at the vegetables that look best.
oDuan's KitchenYUNNAN$$
(小段厨房; Xiǎoduàn Chúfáng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %153 0872 7919; 12 Renmin Lu; 人民路12号 dishes from ¥38; h11am-2pm & 5.30-9pm; W)
Now so popular that you can expect to queue for a table, this place is set around a cosy and cute courtyard. The dishes are an interpretation of Bai cuisine rather than 100% the real deal, but the ingredients are absolutely local. It's at the far eastern end of Renmin Lu.
SerendipityAMERICAN$$
(大理美国小馆; Dàlǐ Měiguó Xiǎoguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 53 Guangwu Lu; 广武路53号 mains from ¥38; h8am-11.30pm; W)
Busy, American-run diner with a traditional counter to sit around and a solid menu of properly cooked burgers, steaks, pasta and salad, as well as hefty, top-notch breakfasts. Some outdoor seating on an alley that is rather quieter than Dàlǐ's main drag.
Cāng Ěr ChūnYUNNAN$$
(苍洱春 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 48 Renmin Lu; 人民路48号 dishes from ¥18; h11am-11pm)
A little more expensive than some other Bai restaurants and slightly brusque service, but the food is worthwhile and authentic: the locals like it. The rǔbǐng (乳饼; goat’s cheese) is especially good here.
Birdbar CafeJAPANESE$$
(鸟吧咖啡馆; Niǎoba Kāfēi Guǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0872 250 1902; www.flightdiary.com; 20 Renmin Lu; 人民路20号 dishes from ¥28; h9am-7pm Tue-Sun; W)
There's a great, sun-filled upstairs area to lounge in over a coffee, tea or beer, while the menu mixes Western, Chinese and Japanese cuisine (all organic). The breakfasts are an especially good deal, as are the set meals (from ¥48).
CháimǐduōINTERNATIONAL$$$
(柴米多 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 204 Yeyu Lu; 叶榆路204号 mains & breakfast from ¥38, tapas from ¥18; h9.30am-10pm; Wc)
Iberian-Chinese fusion with a Spanish chef and all-organic ingredients sourced from their own farm outside Dàlǐ. All dishes are presented tapas-style. There's an open kitchen, artful, faux-rustic design and a large outside area to eat in (good for the kids). It's more expensive than many places in town, but the food is consistently good.
6Drinking & Nightlife
BackyardBAR
(后院酒吧; Hòuyuàn Jiǔbā GOOGLE MAP ; 27 Hongwu Lu; 洪武路27号 beers from ¥15; h6pm-late, closed Thu; W)
Dàlǐ's most laid-back and hidden away bar attracts locals and expats with a fine selection of foreign beers and alcohol and a bar set in a garden (hence the name). It shows live European football on the weekends, there's pool, table football and darts, and it serves the best chips and spaghetti bolognese in town.
To find it, turn right at the east gate and walk along Hongwu Lu for 300m. It's down a small alley to the right of a motor repair shop. Look for the light.
Bad MonkeyBAR
(坏猴子; Huài Hóuzi MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %136 8882 4871; 59 Renmin Lu; 人民路59号 beers from ¥15; h9am-late; W)
The eternally happening, Brit-run Bad Monkey brews its own strong ales (from ¥30; the IPA packs a punch), has nightly live music and endless drink specials. There's also reasonable pub grub (pizzas, burgers and shepherd’s pie) and Sunday roast for ¥55. A couple of doors down is a second Bad Monkey, which is more of a music venue than a bar.
7Shopping
Dàlǐ is famous for its marble blue and white batik printed on cotton and silk. There are many clothes shops around Dàlǐ. Most can also make clothes to your specifications – which will come as a relief when you see how small some of the items of ready-made clothing are.
Maps and books can be found at Mandarin Books & CDs (五华书苑; Wǔhuá Shūyuàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Huguo Lu, 护国路 h9.30am-9.30pm).
MARKETS AROUND DàLǐ
Travellers have a market to go to nearly every day of the week. Every Monday at Shāpíng (沙坪), about 30km north of Dàlǐ, there is a colourful Bai market (Shāpíng Gǎnjí). From 10am to 2.30pm you can buy everything from food products and clothing to jewellery and local batik.
Regular buses to Shāpíng (¥11, one hour) leave from just outside the west gate. By bike, it will take about two hours at a good clip.
Markets also take place in Shuāngláng (双廊; Tuesday), Shābā (沙坝; Wednesday), Yòusuǒ (右所; Friday morning, the largest in Yúnnán) and Jiāngwěi (江尾; Saturday). Xǐzhōu (喜州) and Zhōuchéng (州城) have daily morning and afternoon markets, respectively. Wāsè (挖色) also has a popular market every five days with trading from 9am to 4.30pm. Thanks to the lack of boats, travellers now have to slog to Xiàguān’s east bus station for buses to Wāsè (¥20).
Many guesthouses and hostels in Dàlǐ offer tours or can arrange transportation to these markets for around ¥150 for a half-day.
8Information
All hostels and guesthouses and many hotels offer travel advice, arrange tours and book tickets for onward travel. There are also numerous travel agencies and cafes that will book bus tickets and offer all manner of tours. They can be expensive unless you can get a group together.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; Fuxing Lu, 复兴路 )
Changes cash and travellers cheques, and has an ATM that accepts all major cards.
China PostPOST
(中国邮政; Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Fuxing Lu & Huguo Lu, 复兴路护国路的路口 h8am-8pm)
Dàlǐ's main post office.
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB; 公安局; Gōng’ānj
ú %0872 214 2149; Dàlǐ Rd; h8-11am & 2-5pm Mon-Fri)
Note that visas cannot be renewed in Dàlǐ; you have to go to Xiàguān.
8Getting There & Away
The golden rule: almost all buses advertised to Dàlǐ actually go to Xiàguān. Coming from Lìjiāng and Shangri-la, Xiàguān-bound buses stop at the eastern end of Dàlǐ to let passengers off before continuing on to Xiàguān's north bus station.
From Kūnmíng’s west bus station there are numerous buses to Dàlǐ (¥110 to ¥137, four to five hours, every 15 minutes from 7.20am to 8.20pm). Heading north, it’s easiest to pick up a bus on the roads outside the west or east gates; buy your ticket in advance from your guesthouse or a travel agent and they’ll make sure you get on the right one. (You could hail one yourself to save a surcharge but you’re not guaranteed a seat.)
From the old town (near the west gate) you can catch a 30-seat bus to Kūnmíng for ¥130; it runs seven times a day, departing 8.30am, 9.30am, 10.30am, 11.30am, 1.30pm, 2.30pm and 4.30pm. There are also frequent buses from the old town to Lìjiāng (¥85) and Shangri-la (¥117).
Buses run regularly to Shāpíng (¥11), Xǐzhōu (¥7) and other local destinations from outside the west gate.
Lonely Planet China Page 139
