The toughest section of the trek comes after Nuòyu, when the trail winds through the 28 agonising bends, or turns, that lead to the highest point of the gorge. Count on six hours at normal pace to get through here and to reach Yāchà (牙叉) village. It’s a relatively straightforward walk on to Běndìwān (本地湾). About 1½ hours on from here, you begin the descent to the road on slippery, poor, precarious paths. Watch your step here; if you twist an ankle, it’s a long hop down.
After the path meets the road at Tina’s Guesthouse, there’s a good detour that leads down to the middle rapids and Tiger Leaping Stone ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥15), where a tiger is once said to have leapt across the Yangzi, thus giving the gorge its name. Locals charge ¥15 to go down the path and it's a two hour round trip. At the bottom of this insanely steep trail locals charge another ¥15 for one viewpoint but another spot is free. From one of the lower rest points another trail (¥15) heads downstream for a one-hour walk to Walnut Garden (核桃园).
Most hikers stop at Tina’s, have lunch, and head back to Qiáotóu. Those continuing to Walnut Garden can take the trail along the river or use an alternative trail that keeps high where the path descends to Tina’s, crosses a stream and a ‘bamboo forest’ before descending into Walnut Garden. If you are deciding where to spend the night, Walnut Garden is more attractive than Tina’s.
YúNNáN'S BEST HIKES
A Tiger Leaping Gorge (虎跳峡; Hǔtiào Xiá ¥65)
A Nù Jiāng Valley
A Xīshuāngbǎnnà
A Yǔbēng & Kawa Karpo Hikes
A Cāng Shān
4Sleeping & Eating
There are numerous accommodation options along the trek through the gorge. In the unlikely event that everywhere is full, basic rooms will be available with a local. We’ve never heard of anyone who had to sleep rough in the gorge.
All the guesthouses double as restaurants and shops, where you can have meals, or pick up water and snacks. A few hardy vendors can be found along the high trail as far as Běndìwān, selling water, fruit, chocolate bars and, sometimes, the local herb.
Qiáotóu
Jane’s Tibetan GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(峡谷行客栈; Xiágǔ Xíng Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0888 880 6570; [email protected]; dm ¥35, d with/without bathroom ¥120/70; W)
The rooms and dorms at this friendly place with a cosy communal area are basic, but this is still where many people start their trek. The breakfasts here make for good walking fuel and it has left-luggage facilities (¥5 a bag).
In the Gorge
Halfway GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(中途客栈; Zhōngtú Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %131 7079 5128; Běndìwān; dm ¥40, d ¥120-300; W)
Once a simple home to a guy collecting medicinal herbs and his family, this is now a busy operation set around a courtyard and with a great roof terrace. The vistas here are awe-inspiring and perhaps the best of any lodging in the gorge; the view from the communal toilets alone is worth the price of a bed.
Come InnGUESTHOUSE$
(下一客栈; Xiàyī Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %181 8385 3151; [email protected]; dm ¥45, d ¥160-280; W)
Big, well-maintained dorms with bathrooms and sliding doors that open out onto a vast wooden terrace for super views are on offer at this newish guesthouse near the entrance to Běndìwān village. Private rooms are in tip-top condition. English spoken.
Chateau de WoodyGUESTHOUSE$
(山白脸旅馆; Shānbáiliǎn Lǚguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %139 8875 6901; [email protected]; dm ¥30, d ¥120-220; W)
This old-school gorge guesthouse has rooms with good views and modern bathrooms that are a decent deal. Across the road, the less-attractive modern extension has the cheapest rooms.
Tina’s GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(中峡旅店; Zhōngxiá Lǚdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0888 820 2258; [email protected]; 8-/4-bed dm ¥30/40, d ¥120-280; iW)
Almost a package-holiday operation, with travellers funnelled to and from the gorge. Tina's lacks the charm of its competitors, but it's efficiently run, has plenty of beds and the location is perfect for those too knackered to make it to Walnut Garden. Pricier rooms have excellent views. There are daily buses from here to Lìjiāng and Shangri-la (¥55, 3.30pm).
Tea Horse GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(茶马客栈; Chámǎ Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %139 8870 7922; dm ¥40, d ¥100-268; W)
Just after Yāchà village, this ever-expanding place has a reasonable restaurant – it makes a sensible lunch stop – as well as a small spa and massage parlour where aching limbs can be eased. The cheapest rooms share bathrooms, the most expensive are very big and have good beds, modern bathrooms and shared balconies.
Naxi Family GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(纳西雅阁; Nàxī Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %139 8875 8424; dm ¥30, d ¥120-160; W)
Taking your time to spend a night here instead of double-timing it to Walnut Garden isn’t a bad idea. It’s an incredibly friendly, well-run place (organic veggies and wines), set around a pleasant courtyard.
Sean’s Spring GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(山泉客栈; Shānquán Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %158 9436 7846, 0888 820 2223; www.tigerleapinggorge.com; r ¥160-380, without bathroom ¥60-80; nW)
One of the original guesthouses on the trail. The eponymous Sean is a true character, a good source of travel info and one of the few locals seriously concerned with the gorge's environmental well-being. There are 28 rooms here, including a couple of cheapies, and the best have great views of Yùlóng Xuěshān. The meals are all-organic and tasty.
DANGERS OF THE TREK
The gorge hike is not to be taken lightly. Even for those in good physical shape, it’s a workout and can certainly wreck the knees. The path constricts and crumbles and is alarmingly narrow in places, making it sometimes dangerous. When it’s raining (especially in July and August), landslides and swollen waterfalls can block the paths, in particular on the low road. (The best time to come is May and the start of June, when the hills are afire with plant and flower life.)
A few people – including a handful of foreign travellers – have died in the gorge. During the past decade, there have also been cases of travellers being assaulted on the trail. It’s safer in all ways not to do the hike alone.
Check with cafes and lodgings in Lìjiāng or Qiáotóu for trail and weather updates. Most have fairly detailed gorge maps; just remember they’re not to scale and are occasionally out of date.
You can buy water along the way at the guesthouses on the route, but make sure to bring plenty of sunscreen and lip balm.
8Getting There & Away
From Lìjiāng's long-distance bus station there is one direct bus a day to Qiáotóu at 8.30am (¥22, 1½ hours). Otherwise, catch any bus to Shangri-la (¥40, 1½ hours, every 40 minutes, 7.30am to 5pm) and get off at Qiáotóu.
Some travellers get a minivan (¥35) to the start of the walking track, organised through their guesthouse in Lìjiāng. The minivan can deliver extra luggage to the guesthouse of your choice (usually Tina’s or Jane’s).
Returning to Lìjiāng from Qiáotóu, buses start passing through from Shangri-la at around 9.30am. The last one rolls through at around 8pm. The last bus to Shangri-la passes through at around 6.30pm. Tina’s Guesthouse also organises one bus a day to both Lìjiāng and Shangri-la (both ¥55) at 3.30pm. You can also pick up a bus to Lìjiāng from Walnut Garden at 3.30pm (¥55).
There is one daily bus to Báishuǐtái from Lìjiāng at 9am (¥38, three hours). There is also one bus a day from Shangri-la to Báishuǐtái at 9.40am (¥24, three hours).
Tiger Leaping Gorge to Báishuǐtái
An adventurous add-on to the gorge trek is to continue north all the way to Hābā (哈巴) village and the limestone terraces of Báishuǐtái. This turns it into a four-day trek from Qiáotóu and from here you can travel on to Shangri-la. From Walnut Garden to Hābā, via Jiāngbiān (江边), is a seven- to-eight-hour walk. From here to the Yi village of Sānbà (�
�坝), close to Báishuǐtái, is about the same, following trails. You could just follow the road and hitch with the occasional truck or tractor, but it’s longer and less scenic. The best way would be to hire a guide in Walnut Garden (¥400 per day for an English-speaker). A horse will cost ¥250 to ¥300 per day extra. The turn-off to Hābā starts 6km down the road from Walnut Garden, up the hill where you see ‘Welcome to Tibet Guesthouse’ painted on the retaining wall.
There are a number of guesthouses In Hābā. Hābā Snow Mountain Inn (哈巴雪山客栈; Hābā Xuěshān Kèzhàn %0888 7886 6596; dm ¥30, d ¥80-150; W) has old dorms and newer double rooms. The enthusiastic host can organise guides to lead you up to the base camp of Hābā Mountain (哈巴山, Hābā Shān), a two-day trek, or to Black Lake (黑海, Hēi Hǎi), a nine-hour round-trip hike. Note that locals now charge a ¥200 'protection fee' per person for access to the mountain, supposedly going towards conservation efforts.
The daily bus to Sānbà passes Tina's Guesthouse around 1pm (¥40, three hours), but not if the road is blocked. One bus from Báishuǐtái to Shangri-la goes through Sānbà around noon (¥24, two hours). Minivans frequently ply these routes so flagging down a ride isn’t too tough.
If you plan to hike the route alone, assume you’ll need all provisions and equipment for extremes of weather. Ask for local advice before setting out.
Lúgū Lake 泸沽湖
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Straddling the remote Yúnnán–Sìchuān border, Lúgū Lake (泸沽湖; Lúgū Hú) is an absolutely idyllic place, even with the rise in domestic tourism. The ascent to the lake, which sits at 2690m, is via a spectacular switchback road and the first sight of the 50-sq-km body of water, surrounded by lushly forested slopes, will take your breath away.
The best times to visit the lake are April to May, and September to October, when the weather is dry and mild. It’s sometimes snowbound during the winter months.
1Sights & Activities
From Luòshuǐ and Lǐgé you can punt about with local Mosuo by dugout canoe – known by the Mosuo as ‘pig troughs’ (zhūcáo chuān). Expect to head for Lǐwùbǐ Dǎo (里务比岛), the largest island (and throw a stone into Sìchuān). The second-largest island is Hēiwǎé Dǎo (黑瓦俄岛). Boat-trip prices vary wildly. If you’re in a group, it’s ¥50 per person. But if it's a quiet time, you should be able to get a ride on your own for under ¥100.
Bikes (per day ¥30) and scooters (per day ¥80 to ¥100) can be hired along the lake shore at Luòshuǐ and Lǐgé. The lake is around 60km in circumference and you can travel around it by scooter in five hours or so. Strong cyclists will be able to circumnavigate it in a day (there are plenty of steep climbs).
Zhāměi TempleMONASTERY
(扎美寺; Zhāměi Sì Yǒngníng; admission by donation)
This substantial Tibetan monastery at Yǒngníng village is worth a visit, although only a few lamas are in residence at any time. Admission is free, but a donation is expected. A private minivan costs ¥20 per person for the half-hour ride.
Mosuo Folk Custom MuseumMUSEUM
(摩梭民俗博物馆; Mósuō Mínzú Bówùguǎn Luòshuǐ; ¥60; h8am-5pm)
This museum in Luòshuǐ is set within the traditional home of a wealthy Mosuo family, and the obligatory guide will explain how the matriarchal society functions. There is also an interesting collection of photos taken by Joseph Rock in the 1920s. The entrance fee is sometimes discounted by 50%.
VILLAGES AROUND LúGū LAKE
Villages are scattered around the outskirts of the lake, with Luòshuǐ (洛水) the biggest and most developed, and the one where the bus will drop you. As well as guesthouses, restaurants and a few cafes with English menus and Western food, there are the inevitable souvenir shops and a number of bars with live music. Away from them, though, the dominant night-time sound is the lapping of the lake.
Most travellers move quickly to Lǐgé (里格), 9km further up the road, tucked into a bay on the northwestern shore of the lake. Although guesthouses make up most of the place, along with restaurants serving succulent, but pricey, barbecue, the sights and nights here are lovely. If you want a less touristy experience, then you need to keep village-hopping around the lake to the Sìchuān side. At the moment, top votes for alternative locations are Luòwǎ (洛瓦), Wǔzhīluó (五支罗) and Zhào Jiā Wān （赵家湾).
4Sleeping
Hotels and guesthouses line the lakeside in Luòshuǐ and Lǐgé, with basic rooms available from ¥80.
Lao Shay Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(老谢车马店; Lǎoxiè Chēmǎdiàn %0888 588 1555; www.laoshay.com; Lǐgé; dm ¥40, s & d ¥88-180; iW)
Still the best spot for cheap digs in Lǐgé, with a prime location smack in the middle of the village. The best rooms have balconies and lake views, the cheapest share bathrooms. Dorms have lockers and are in reasonable condition. Lackadaisical staff. Bike hire is ¥30 per day.
Yǎsé Dába Lǚxíngzhě ZhījiāHOTEL$$$
(雅瑟达吧旅行者之家 %0888 588 1196; [email protected]; Lǐgé; d ¥420-580; W)
Stuck out on a little promontory at the edge of Lǐgé, all the rooms here come with decent views, but the ones on the 2nd floor are tremendous. They're a little overpriced but the bathrooms are a cut above the rest in the village. In the attached restaurant, try Lúgū Lake fish (泸沽湖鱼; Lúgū Hú yú) or sausage (香肠; xiāngcháng).
5Eating
There are many restaurants that serve traditional Mosuo foods, including preserved pig’s fat and salted sour fish – the latter being somewhat tastier than the former. Most popular of all is the fantastic barbecued pork: you'll see the pigs being roasted outside. Lǐgé is the best place for barbecue.
Zhāxī CāntīngBARBECUE$$
(扎西餐厅 %0888 588 1055; Lǐgé; dishes from ¥30; h5pm-midnight; W)
Lively restaurant and barbecue joint that's good for the local speciality, Mosuo pork (¥50). You'll see the pigs being roasted whole outside, where you can sit near the lake.
3Entertainment
Mosuo Dance ShowDANCE
(篝火晚会; Gōuhuǒ Wǎnhuì Luòshǐ; ¥30; h8.20-9.20pm)
This nightly dance show sees group dancing by many Mosuo women in traditional dress around a fire. The local name for it translates as 'bonfire party', but don't expect to see effigies of Guy Fawkes. It's very popular with domestic tourists and is held in a forecourt off the street back from the lake.
8Getting There & Away
Lìjiāng’s express bus station has two direct buses a day to the lake (¥100, eight hours, 8.30am and 9am), but buy your ticket at least one day in advance as it’s frequently sold out. Note too that it often takes nine or ten hours to get to the lake for various road-related reasons. Both the buses pick up passengers at the main bus station (客运站; kèyùnzhàn) as well.
For Lǐgé you’ll have to change for a minibus in Luòshuǐ (¥20 per person), or hire a bike.
Leaving Luòshuǐ, there are two daily buses to Lìjiāng at 9.30am and 10am. Again, tickets should be bought at least a day in advance. You can also catch one of the regular minivans to Nínglàng (宁蒗; ¥30, four hours), from where there are five buses daily to Lìjiāng.
At the time of writing, no buses were running to Xīchāng (西昌) in Sìchuān. But minivans make the run (¥130, seven hours). Hostels can arrange pick-ups.
Shangri-la 香格里拉
%0887 / Pop 130,000
Shangri-la (香格里拉, Xiānggélǐlā), formerly known as Zhōngdiàn (中甸) and sometimes called 'Gyalthang' in Tibetan, is where you begin to breathe in the Tibetan world. That’s if you can breathe at all, given its altitude (3200m). Travelling here allows you to experience an intriguing blend of Tibetan and Han Chinese culture.
Home to one of Yúnnán’s most rewarding monasteries and surrounded by mountains, lakes and grassland, it's also the last stop in Yúnnán before a rough five- to six-day journey to Chéngdū via the Tibetan townships and rugged terrain of western Sìchuān.
The town is divide
d into two distinct sections: the larger modern side and the old quarter. A devastating fire in January 2014 sent much of the old town up in smoke, but it's now been almost completely rebuilt. Most of the places you'll visit in the new town are within walking distance of the old town, making getting around easy.
Plan your visit for between March or April and October. During winter, Shangri-la is still busy but it gets very cold indeed, although spectacular mountain views can be the reward for braving the frigid temperatures.
In mid- to late June, the town hosts a horse-racing festival that sees several days of dancing, singing, eating and, of course, horse racing. Accommodation is tight at this time.
Shangri-la
1Sights
1Guīshān SìB4
2Old TownA3
3Shangri-la Thangka AcademyA4
4Zhùangjīn TǒngA4
2Activities, Courses & Tours
5Khampa CaravanA4
4Sleeping
6Arro Khampa HotelA4
7Kersang's Relay StationA4
8Kevin's Trekker InnA3
9Nánshān Arts HotelB3
10N's Kitchen & LodgeA3
11Tavern 47A3
5Eating
12CompassB3
13Flying Tigers CafeA4
14Noah's CafeA3
15Silent Holy StonesA3
6Drinking & Nightlife
16RavenA1
7Shopping
Lonely Planet China Page 143
