27Jiǔyǎn Bar StreetE7
28Kǎi Lú Lǎo Zhái CháyuánB4
29Lan Kwai Fong ChéngdūE6
WOW BarE7
3Entertainment
30New Little BarB8
31Shǔfēng Yǎyùn TeahouseB4
7Shopping
32Chūnxī Lù Shopping DistrictD5
33Sanfo OutdoorsB6
34Tai Koo LiE5
35Tibetan ShopsB6
8Information
36Chéngdū Entry & Exit Service CentreC5
37China Youth Travel AgencyD5
38French ConsulateE5
39German ConsulateD8
40Global Doctor Chéngdū ClinicD8
41Pakistani ConsulateC5
42Sìchuān Mountaineering AssociationD7
43Tibetan TrekkingB8
44US ConsulateD8
45West China Hospital SCUC6
46Windhorse TourC3
Transport
47China Eastern AirlinesC5
48Dragon AirC4
1Sights
oGiant Panda Breeding Research BaseWILDLIFE RESERVE
(大熊猫繁育基地; Dàxióngmāo Fányù Jīdì GOOGLE MAP ; %028 8351 0033; www.panda.org.cn; 1375 Xiongmao Dadao; 熊猫大道1375号 adult/student ¥58/29; h8am-5.30pm)
One of Chéngdū’s most popular attractions, this reserve 18km north of the city centre is the easiest way to glimpse Sìchuān’s most famous residents outside of a zoo. The enclosures here are large and well maintained. Home to nearly 120 giant and 76 red pandas, the base focuses on getting these shy creatures to breed.
March to May is the ‘falling in love period’ (wink wink). If you visit in autumn or winter, you may see tiny newborns in the nursery.
Try to visit in the morning, when the pandas are most active. Feeding takes place around opening time at 8am, although you’ll see them eating in the late afternoon too. They spend most of their afternoons sleeping, particularly during the height of midsummer, when they sometimes disappear into their (air-conditioned) living quarters.
Catch bus 49 (¥2, 40 minutes) and transfer at Zhāojué Hénglù stop (昭觉横路站) to bus 87 (¥2, 20 minutes) to the Panda Base stop (熊猫基地站; Xióngmāo Jīdì). Alternatively, from North Train Station take bus 9 (¥2, 60 minutes) to the Zoo stop (动物园站; Dòngwùyuán) and switch to 198 (¥2, 20 minutes). Hostels run trips here, too. Metro line 3 will run directly here when it is completed.
Wénshū TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(文殊院; Wénshū Yuàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 66 Wenshuyuan Lu; 文殊院路66号 h6am-9pm; m1)F
This Tang dynasty monastery is dedicated to Wénshū (Manjushri), the Bodhisattva of Wisdom, and is Chéngdū’s largest and best-preserved Buddhist temple. The air is heavy with incense and the low murmur of chanting; despite frequent crowds of worshippers, there’s still a sense of serenity and solitude.
People’s ParkPARK
(人民公园; Rénmín Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 9 Citang Jie; 祠堂街9号 h6.30am-10pm; m2)F
On weekends, locals fill this park with dancing, song and taichi. There’s a small, willow-tree-lined boating lake and a number of teahouses: Hè Míng Teahouse is the most popular and atmospheric.
Chéngdū MuseumMUSEUM
(成都博物馆; Chéngdū Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cdmuseum.com; west side of Tiānfǔ Sq; 天府广场西侧 h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)F
Spanning ancient Shu and pre-Qin to the Revolutionary era and modern Chéngdū, this brand-new five-storey museum is packed with historical and cultural relics of the city's past. Don't miss the 'Puppetry and Shadow Plays of China' gallery on the top floor, with excellent examples of the art from across the country.
Chéngdū Museum of Contemporary ArtGALLERY
(成都当代美术馆; Chéngdū Dāngdài Měishùguǎn %028 8598 0055; www.chengdumoca.org; Tiānfǔ Software Park, Bldg C1; 天府软件园C1楼 h10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun; p)F
This privately funded museum aims to create a space for the development and exhibition of contemporary and abstract art in Chinese society. Works on display range from thought-provoking critiques of the country's history to examinations of the interplay between nature and society, and make a visit well worth the trip out from central Chéngdū. Be sure to visit both wings of the museum, separated by a public garden space incorporated into the architecture of the museum itself.
Jīnshā Site MuseumMUSEUM
(金沙遗址博物馆; Jīnshā Yízhǐ Bówùguǎn www.jinshasitemuseum.com; 227 Qingyang Dadao; 青羊大道227号 ¥80; h8am-5.30pm)
In 2001 archaeologists made a historic discovery in Chéngdū’s western suburbs: they unearthed a major site containing ruins of the 3000-year-old Shu kingdom. This excellent, expansive museum includes the excavation site and beautiful displays of many of the uncovered objects, which were created between 1200 and 600 BC.
Like the discoveries further outside the city at Sānxīngduī, the 6000 or so relics here include both functional and decorative items, from pottery and tools to jade artefacts, stone carvings and ornate gold masks. A large number of elephant tusks were also unearthed here.
Take bus 901 from Xīnnánmén bus station, or metro line 2 to Yipintianxia (一品天下).
Wǔhóu TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(武侯祠; Wǔhóu Cí MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 231 Wuhouci Dajie; 武侯祠大街231号 adult/student ¥60/30; h8am-8pm; g1, 21, 26)
Located adjacent to Nánjiāo Park and surrounded by mossy cypresses, this temple (rebuilt in 1672) honours several figures from the Three Kingdoms period, namely legendary military strategist Zhuge Liang and Emperor Liu Bei (his tomb is here). Both were immortalised in the Chinese literature classic, Romance of the Three Kingdoms (Sān Guó Yǎnyì).
Qīngyáng TempleTAOIST TEMPLE
(青羊宫; Qīngyáng Gōng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 9 Huanlu Xi Er Duan; 一环路西二段9号 ¥10; h8am-6pm; g11, 27, 45)
Located alongside Culture Park (文化公园; Wénhuà Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 9 Huanlu Xi Er Duan; 一环路西二段9号 h6am-10pm; c), this is Chéngdū’s oldest and most extensive Taoist temple. Qīngyáng (or Green Ram) Temple dates from the Zhou dynasty, although most of what you see is Qing. A highlight is the unusually squat, eight-sided pagoda, built without bolts or pegs. There's also a popular teahouse (¥10) inside, towards the back.
4Sleeping
oLoft Design HostelHOSTEL$
(四号工厂青年旅馆; Sìhào Gōngchǎng Qīngnián Lǚguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %028 8626 5770; www.lofthostel.com; 4 Xiaotong Xiang, off Zhongtongren Lu; 中通仁路, 小桶巷4号 dm ¥50-60, s/d from ¥180/300; aiW; g48, 54, 341)
Chic boutique meets trendy hostel for grown-ups in this converted printing factory with its pretty cafe/bar, exposed brick and arty vibe. The front desk offers solid travel advice plus a decent cocktail selection. Dorms are small but the deluxe private rooms are spacious. The biggest downfalls: wi-fi is only in the common spaces and it's far from the metro.
Lazybones Backpacker Boutique HostelHOSTEL$
(懒骨头青年旅舍; Lǎngútóu Qīngnián Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %028 8669 5778; www.chengduhostel.com; 16 Yangshi Jie; 羊市街16号 dm ¥50, tw & d ¥189; aiW)
Owned by the same group that runs Mix Hostel (驴友记青年旅舍; Lǘyǒujì Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %028 8322 2271; www.mixhostel.com; 23 Ren Jia Wan, Xinghui Lu West; 星辉西路任家湾23号 dm ¥40, s ¥88, d/tr from ¥98/130; aiW; g16, 55), this friendly hostel can organise tours, whip up a Western breakfast, offer advice on the city, tell you about their free activities, or just leave you be to play with the house cat. If all that weren't enough, it's also just a few minutes from the Luomashi metro stop.
Nova Traveller's LodgeHOSTEL$
(成都乐浮国际青年旅舍; Chéngdū Lèfú Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %028 8695 0016; www.dragontown.com.cn; 10 Taisheng Beilu; 太升北路10号 dm ¥45, standard/deluxe r ¥130/170; aW)
Clean, bright and quiet, and the staff here make the collection of good facilities into a truly excellent hostel.
Standard private rooms are on the quite small side, so upgrade to one of the roomier deluxe rooms.
Cloud Atlas HostelHOSTEL$
(云图国际青年旅舍; Yúntú Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %028 8334 6767; [email protected]; 288 Shuncheng Jie; 顺城街288号 dm ¥45-75, tw ¥150-240; naW)
Excellent facilities, great coffee, lots of common space – this hostel has it all. It's large enough to feel a bit institutional on the dorm floors, but that just means there are tonnes of new friends to be made.
Chéngdū Dreams Travel HostelHOSTEL$
(梦之旅国际青年旅舍; Mèngzhīlǚ Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %028 8557 0315; www.dreams-travel.com/youthhostel/en; 242 Wuhouci Dajie; 武侯祠大街242号 dm ¥45-60, r ¥155-265; W; g57)
Across the street from Wǔhóu Temple, this backpacker joint has loads of common space and friendly, helpful staff. Our only complaint is that the bathrooms could use a good scrubbing.
Hello Chéngdū International Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(老宋青年旅舍; Lǎosòng Qīngnián Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %028 8196 7573, 028 8335 5322; www.gogosc.com; 211 Huanlu Bei 4 Duan; 一环路北四段211号 dm from ¥40, s without/with bathroom ¥90/120, d from ¥140; naiW; g28, 34)
Once one of the best hostels in China, never mind Chéngdū, this place has lost much of its finesse in recent years. It’s still a nice space, though, sprawled around two garden courtyards, good for kids and adults to laze about. Rooms are clean and simple, and facilities are what you’d expect from a top-class hostel.
Mrs Panda HostelHOSTEL$
(熊猫夫人青年旅舍; Xióngmāo Fūrén Qīngnián Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %028 8705 5315; [email protected]; 6 Linjiang Zhonglu; 临江中路6号 dm ¥45-50, r without bathroom ¥90, with bathroom ¥170-210; aiW; g55, 76, 16)
The new owners recently spruced up beloved Traffic Inn hostel with a panda theme. Rooms with shared bathrooms remain the best value thanks to the spotless showers and toilets. Close to Xīnnánmén bus station, this is extremely convenient for day trips to museums or old towns in the countryside surrounding Chéngdū.
Traffic HotelHOTEL$
(交通饭店; Jiāotōng Fàndiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %028 8545 1017; 6 Linjiang Zhonglu; 临江中路6号 r from ¥80; pW)
A backpacker standard for ages, this hotel is old-fashioned but has clean rooms and every service you could ever imagine, including several travel agencies and an on-site restaurant. The location near Xīnnánmén station can't be beaten and it's got helpful English-speaking staff.
ZhengFu Cao Tang Decent InnGUESTHOUSE$$
(正福徳馨客栈; Zhèngfú Déxīn Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %028 8666 4008; [email protected]; 5 Renmin Lu Er Duan; 人民路二段5号 dm ¥45, r ¥138; aW; m1)
Despite being steps away from Loumashi metro stop and fronting busy Renmin Lu, this guesthouse and its rustic stylings and quiet common area feel far removed from the city bustle just outside. Dorms and rooms all have private bathroom.
BuddhaZen HotelHOTEL$$$
(圆和圆佛禪客栈; Yuánhéyuán Fúchán Kèzhàn, O和O MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %028 8692 9898; www.buddhazenhotel.com; B6-6 Wenshufang; 青羊区文殊坊B6-6号 incl breakfast s & d from ¥498, ste from ¥788; aiW; m1)
Set in a tranquil courtyard building, this boutique hotel near Wénshū Temple blends traditional decor with modern comforts and a taste of Buddhist philosophy. You can ponder life sipping tea on your private balcony, circling the sand garden or soaking in a wooden tub at the spa. It's lovely here.
Old Chéngdū Book ClubHOTEL$$$
(成都书院; Chéngdū Shūyuàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %028 8695 6688; www.oldchengduclub.com.cn; 28 Wuyuegong Jie; 五岳宫街28号 s/d/tr from ¥480/580/780; aiW)
On Wénshū Temple's doorstep, the Ming-dynasty-style courtyard buildings and luxurious rooms of this hotel are decorated with lovely Chinese furnishings and artwork. It's worth upgrading to the bright and sumptuous rooms in the main building. Limited English spoken.
PRICE RANGES
SLEEPING
The following price ranges refer to a double room. Unless otherwise stated, private bathroom is included in the price.
$ less than ¥100
$$ ¥100–¥400
$$$ more than ¥400
EATING
The following price ranges refer to a main course.
$ less than ¥30
$$ ¥30–¥50
$$$ more than ¥50
5Eating
Wénshū Temple Vegetarian RestaurantVEGETARIAN$
(文殊院素宴厅; Wénshūyuàn Sùyàn Tīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; southeast cnr of Wénshū Temple, Wenshuyuan Lu; 文殊院路 dishes ¥12-48, tea from ¥68; h9.40am-9.30pm; v)
This excellent volunteer-staffed vegetarian restaurant and the atmospheric teahouse that surrounds it are on the Wénshū Temple's grounds. There's also a coffee shop in a separate pavilion in the first courtyard.
Lǎo Mā Rabbit HeadSICHUAN$
(老妈兔头; Lǎomā Tùtóu MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %132 1902 5349; http://laomatutou.chengdu.edushi.com; 22 Jinsi Jie; 金丝22号 rabbit head ¥8, mains from ¥28; h8.30am-10pm)
The menu has the full range of Sìchuān dishes, but it's only really worth the trip for the namesake: rabbit head (兔头; tùtóu). Order by the piece, kinda-spicy (五香; wǔxiāng) or pretty spicy (麻辣; málà). When it comes, dig in. Break open the jaw, split open the skull, and don't miss the best bits down in the cranial cavity.
Táng Sòng Food StreetSTREET FOOD$
(春熙坊唐宋美食街; Chūnxīfāng Tángsòng Měishí Jiē MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 29 Zongfu Lu; 总府路29号 mains from ¥12; h9.30am-10.30pm)
This reconstructed ancient alleyway is jam-packed with tourists and Chéngdū favourites like chāoshǒu (抄手; wontons; ¥12) and chuànchuàn xiāng (串串香; the skewer version of the Chóngqìng hotpot; ¥2 to ¥4). Musical performances reverberate in the indoor space in the evening. Look for the wooden sign and doors near Lotte KTV. If you want to try traditional Sìchuān favourite tùtóu (兔头; rabbit head) head for Bāshǔ Shānhuò (巴蜀山貨).
oChóngqìng Yúanlǎosì Old HotpotHOTPOT$$
(重庆袁老四老火锅; Chóngqìng Yuánlǎosì Lǎohuǒguō MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %028 8444 5220; 66 Mengzhuiwan Jie; 猛追湾街66号 pot ¥88, dishes from ¥10; h11am-10pm)
Though it may seem like sacrilege to eat Chóngqìng-style hotpot in rival Chéngdū, this place is cleaner than most and the flavour and ingredient quality speak for themselves (plus the beer is cold).
Chén Mápó DòufuSICHUAN$$
(陈麻婆豆腐 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %028 8674 3889; 197 Xi Yulong Jie; 西玉龙街197号 mains ¥22-58; h11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-9pm)
The plush flagship of this famous chain is a great place to experience mápó dòufu (麻婆豆腐; small/large ¥12/20) – soft, house bean curd with a fiery sauce of garlic, minced beef, fermented soybean, chilli oil and Sìchuān pepper. It’s one of Sìchuān’s most famous dishes and is this restaurant’s specialty. Non-spicy choices, too.
SultanMIDDLE EASTERN$$$
(苏坦土耳其餐吧; Sūtǎn Tǔ'ěrqí Cānba MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %028 8555 4780; 25-12 Fanghua Jie; 芳华街25号附12号 mains from ¥50; hnoon-11pm; Wv)
Crowd-pleasing fare from the western reaches of the Silk Road, including lamb kebabs, hummus, house-made yoghurt, Turkish coffee, and warm naan. Hook into the free wi-fi outside on the patio, or into a sheesha pipe (¥50) in a private room piled with cushions.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Sìchuān does teahouses better than anywhere else in China. In Chéngdū there are plenty of options for the harder stuff too, including raucous Jiǔyǎn Bar Street (九眼酒吧街; Jiǔyǎn Jiǔbā Jiē MAP GOOGLE MAP ), a strip of bars and clubs on the Jǐn Jiāng, and the newly developed upscale bar/club/restaurant district at Lan Kwai Fong (兰桂坊; Lánguìfāng MAP GOOGLE MAP ). For the latest on Chéngdū’s nightlife, pick up copies of Hello Chengdu or More Chengdu (www.morechengdu.com), or check out www.gochengdoo.com/en.
oKǎi Lú Lǎo Zhái CháyuánTEAHOUSE
(庐恺老宅茶园 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %180 3041 6632; 11 Kuan Xiangzi; 宽巷子11号 h10am-11pm; W)
For 200 years one of the city's most venerable teahouses has been tucked away in a peaceful courtyard behind a stone archway off frenetic Kuan Alley, the distant hum of which is more than countered by the sound of zither music that plays in the background. These days there's wi-fi, but that seems to be about all that has changed. Tea from ¥38; snacks ¥12.
Hè Míng TeahouseTEAHOUSE
(鹤鸣茶馆; Hèmíng Cháguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; People’s Park, 人民公园 h6am-9pm)
Always lively, this century-old spot is most pleasant for whiling away an afternoon with a bottomless cup of tea (¥12 to ¥30). Neat tea-pouring performances happen on Saturdays from 2pm to 3pm. Ear cleanings (¥20) available daily.
Beer NestBAR
(啤酒窝酒吧; Píjiǔ Wō Jiǔbā MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %151 0836 0121; [email protected]; 34-7 Jinxiu Li; 锦绣路34号附7号 h2pm-late)
Owned by a real-life Belgian brewing his own beer, this place is an instant favourite. There's a daily 'Buy-2-Get-1' Happy Hour (2pm to 8pm) and specials every day of the week, but Tuesday (three-beer sampler for ¥40), Thursday (beer pong 8pm to 11pm, free beer!) and Sunday (¥30 craft beers) are among the best. They can also get Tex-Mex delivered (¥15 to ¥38).
Lonely Planet China Page 150
