Xiāngchéng 乡城
%0836 / Pop 55,000 / Elevation 2977m
The valley town of Xiāngchéng (乡城; Chaktreng) is a good spot to break your journey into or out of Yúnnán province if you can't bear it all in one go. It benefits from a microclimate that keeps temperatures here slightly warmer than everywhere else around it, making it a particularly comfortable stop, with a number of small villages nearby that make for pleasant wandering.
1Sights
Bsampeling MonasteryBUDDHIST MONASTERY
(桑披岭寺; Sāngpīlǐng Sì 27 Tongsha Xiang; 同沙巷27号 ¥15; h5am-10.30pm)
Originally established in 1669, this collection of golden-roofed monastery buildings at the top end of town commands fine views of the surrounding hills. Be sure to take the stairs up to the 2nd and 3rd floors of the main structure for great close-up views of the large Buddha statues within and an excellent rooftop vantage over the town, respectively.
To reach the temple follow the main road left from the bus station. As the road curves to the right just outside of town, look for a number of small paths to the left that wind up to the temple area.
Seven LakesLAKE
(巴姆七湖; Bāmŭ Qīhú )
According to locals, this string of seven small iridescent lakes strung along a mountain valley makes an excellent full-day trip from Xiāngchéng. It's around 25km on the road towards Dàochéng to the signposted turn-off for the lakes, and another several hours' walk to the top of the valley.
4Sleeping
Xiāngchéng's main thoroughfare is lined with guesthouses and hostels, though there's very little to fill the gap between basic options and higher-end tour-group hotels. Of the few that exist, Sīqīng Gémăcāng (思卿格玛苍 %0836 582 9520; behind bus station; 车站右侧二楼 r ¥150; W) has some of the best-value rooms in town.
5Eating
The main road is dotted with restaurants offering similar menus of Sìchuān favourites. For a change of taste head up the small street to the left just before the town square – a northern Chinese couple cooks up their hometown-style of dumplings at Hēilóngjiāng Dōngběi Jiǎozi (黑龙江东北饺子 %182 8362 6582; 9 Sangpi Jie; 桑披街9号 dishes from ¥10; h8.30am-9pm; W).
8Getting There & Away
Two buses leave daily at 6am. One goes south into Yúnnán to Zhōngdiàn (Shangri-la; ¥88, eight hours); the other goes to Kāngdìng (¥147, 12 hours). Note that tickets to Lǐtáng are not sold on the Kāngdìng-bound bus, even though it’s en route; take a shared minivan instead (¥90, 4½ hours).
A passing bus to Dàochéng (¥46, three hours, 2.30pm) sometimes has seats, otherwise a shared minivan to Dàochéng is around ¥70.
Northern Sìchuān
Hiking, or even camping, in the stunning Jiǔzhàigōu National Park or heading out on horseback around Sōngpān are how most travellers experience the carpets of alpine forest, swaths of grasslands, icy lakes and snow-topped mountains of northern Sìchuān. Looping around towards western Sìchuān and Dānbā, take time as well for the stunning valleys and panoramic peak-filled landscapes of Four Sisters Mountain en route.
The Road to Gānsù
Those heading north out of Sìchuān into Gānsù province will need to bus-hop their way from Sōngpān or Jiǔzhàigōu. First stop is Zöigě (若尔盖; Ruò’ěrgài), a small Tibetan town with a distinct frontier feel. The grasslands here burst into life with wildflowers in late summer, but otherwise there are few reasons to linger.
There are plenty of eating and accommodation options on Shuguang Jie, with Shǔguāng Jiǔdiàn (曙光酒店 %083 7229 2988; Shuguang Jie; 曙光街 r standard/deluxe ¥100/120; W) among the best of the lot for those spending a night in between buses. Turn left out of the bus station and walk 100m.
Zöigě buses go to Sōngpān (¥49, three hours, 10am and 2.30pm) and Lángmùsì (郎木寺; ¥25, two hours, 2.30pm), an enchanting monastery town straddling the Sìchuān–Gānsù border from where it's possible to catch onward transport towards Lánzhōu. Buses can be sporadic, especially when snow renders roads impassable. Zöigě is at 3500m and temperatures can plummet suddenly.
Sōngpān 松潘
%0837 / Pop 67,972 / Elev 3014m
Horse trekking into the woods and mountains is the main draw of the laid-back, historic town of Sōngpān (松潘), a holdover from its role as a major trading centre on the Tea Horse Road (茶马路, Chá Mǎ Lù). The hiking is also good, so there's a healthy backpacker population to swap travel tales with.
Much of the old town has been rebuilt in recent years, but architecturally it still holds much of its visual appeal and finding the touches of true history hidden throughout make it feel even more special. In midwinter (December to March) Sōngpān slows down and some businesses close; however, even in the cold, horse trekking is still possible.
Sōngpān
1Sights
1Guānyīn TempleA5
2North GateB2
3West GateA2
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Qíqílè MǎduìA6
5Shùnjiāng Horse TreksC1
4Sleeping
6Amdo Coffee House InnB3
7Emma's GuesthouseC1
8Shùnjiāng GuesthouseC1
5Eating
9Emma's KitchenC1
10Lǎo Wū CháyuánA6
11Song in the MountainC1
6Drinking & Nightlife
12Zūwū Heritage HouseB2
7Shopping
13Jīnmíngzhū SupermarketB2
1Sights
Sōngpān’s partially rebuilt city wall may be less than 10 years old, but its ancient gates are original Ming dynasty structures dating back some 600 years. Note the horse carvings at the foot of the two south gates, half swallowed up by the ever-rising level of the road. The only original part of the old wall is by the rebuilt West Gate (西大门; Xī Dàmén MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-6pm), which overlooks the town from its hillside perch far above.
Two wooden covered bridges (古松桥; Gǔsōng Qiáo and 映月桥; Yìng Yuè Qiáo), the bases of which are genuinely old, span the Mín River. On the western side of the Yíngyuè Bridge is Guānyīn Temple (观音阁; Guānyīn Gé MAP GOOGLE MAP ), a small temple near the start of a hillside trail that offers good views over Sōngpān en route to the West Gate.
Shàngníbā MonasteryBUDDHIST MONASTERY
(上泥巴寺; Shàngníbā Sì GOOGLE MAP )F
A two-hour hike or horse ride east over the hills from Sōngpān, this small Tibetan Buddhist monastery sits in a picturesque valley among small minority villages. One-day horse trips often head out here for a roughly five-hour round trip, including a stop for lunch.
North GateGATE
(北门; Bĕi Mén MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-6pm)
From just west of the North Gate, it's possible to ascend onto a small restored section of the city wall for ¥150.
2Activities
One of the most popular ways to experience the alpine forests and lakes surrounding Sōngpān is by signing on for a horse trek. Many people rate this experience as a highlight of their travels in this region. Guides lead you through otherwise unseen territory to remote campsites aboard not-so-big, very tame horses. Food and gear are all provided.
One of the most popular routes is a three- or four-day trek through unspoilt scenery to Ice Mountain (雪宝顶; Xuěbǎodǐng), a spectacular peak. A three-day trek to Qīcáng Valley (七藏沟; Qīcáng Gōu), recently opened to camping, passes several technicolour lakes.
Rates are all-inclusive of gear, horses and two meals. Your guides take care of setting up tents and cooking, unless you want to. The only additional charges are park entry fees for some of the trips (you are told of these before you set out), and tips, should you be inclined.
The majority of travellers seem happy with their services, but we do sometimes receive reports of guides careless about environmental impact. Also, some travellers have had trouble getting refunds, particularly when the weather turned, which it often does. If you do
n't speak Chinese or Tibetan, we recommend booking through local and Chéngdū hostels, which will help you negotiate details such as the terms for a refund.
The nearby hills are wonderfully good for hiking. One option is to hike around one hour up to the only remaining part of the original town wall, by the West Gate. There are three paths up: one starts beside the stream north of North Gate; another leads up the hill from the west end of Gulou Jie; while a third is accessed via Guānyīn Temple. Another option is to hike for about two hours to Shàngníbā Monastery in the eastern hills.
Qíqílè MǎduìHORSE RIDING
(骑奇乐马队 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %189 0904 3667, 0837 723 4138; www.517sp.net; Nanjie, Yingyue Xiang; 南街映月巷 per day per person from ¥220; h8.30am-7pm)
If you speak Chinese, you should enquire at this well-run outfitter. They cover the usual local favourites and further afield to northerly Zöigě (若尔盖; Ruò'ěrgài; eight days) and southward to Hóng Yuán (红原; 10 days). Daily prices include food, tent rental and all other costs aside from admission to any national parks included in the route (which are outlined up front).
Shùnjiāng Horse TreksHORSE RIDING
(顺江旅游马队; Shùnjiāng Lǚyóu Mǎduì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0837 723 1064, 153 0904 6777; Shunjiang Beilu; 顺江北路 per person per day all-inclusive ¥220-320)
The most established union of guides in town has been leading tourists on horse treks for years. You can tailor trips from one to five days. Expect limited English-language skills. Guides take care of everything: you won’t touch a tent pole or a cooking pot unless you want to. The only additional charge is entrance to the different sites and national parks visited on some trips.
However, in recent years we have received several complaints from readers about the company’s overly aggressive attitude towards some guests when disputes about payment arise, and about the treatment of its horses. If you do decide to stay in their guesthouse (顺江自助旅馆; Shùnjiāng Zìzhù Lǚguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %139 0904 3501, 0837 723 1064; Shunjiang Beilu; 顺江北路 dm ¥30, r ¥120; W) or go horse trekking with Shùnjiāng, make sure you are very clear about what you are getting, and for what price, before you commit to anything. For comparison you may want to also make enquiries with the less-established but well-run Qíqílè Mǎduì, although they are less accustomed to dealing with foreign tourists.
ALTITUDE SICKNESS
At elevations above 2800m altitude sickness and acute mountain sickness (AMS) are possible concerns that, while usually easily managed, can be fatal if left unattended.
It's important to give your body time to acclimatise as you proceed higher into the region, and to take heed of any signs of sickness as warnings to slow down and rest before proceeding any higher.
Early signs include:
AHeadaches
ATrouble sleeping
ANausea
AShortness of breath
More serious warning signs:
AConfusion
ADifficulty walking
ACoughing up blood
If you or your travel partners experience any of these, particularly the more extreme signs of sickness, descend immediately to lower elevations and get medical help.
4Sleeping
Amdo Coffee House InnHOTEL$$
(安多房子咖啡客栈, Ānduō Fángzi Kāfēi Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %139 9041 7006, English 135 1596 0964; Beijie, North Gate; 北街农行旁 s/d without bathroom from ¥200; nW)
In a stylish wooden structure just inside the old town's north gate, this hip guesthouse with a historical touch packs in all the modern conveniences plus airport pick-up (¥120). Some rooms are small, so head downstairs to the wired cafe for real coffee (¥20) and a big window perfect for people-watching from 8am to 10pm.
Room rates drop to ¥150 in low season.
Emma's GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(小歐洲青年旅舍; Xiǎo Ōuzhōu Qīngnián Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0837 723 1088, 131 0837 2888; [email protected]; Shunjiang Cun; 顺江村 dm ¥40-60, r ¥120-180, ste ¥200-300; aW)
Knowledgable Emma runs this warm guesthouse, which is next to her family's wood-framed house down a quiet side street. The rooms are bright and clean with private bathrooms, and heaters and electric blankets for the cold months. Check in at Emma's Kitchen.
5Eating
Lǎo Wū CháyuánTEAHOUSE$
(老屋茶园 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0837 723 3519; 15 Yingyue Jie; 映月街15号 tea from ¥5, dishes from ¥8; h8am-11pm)
Through an unassuming archway near the east end of Yìng Yuè Qiáo is this buzzing courtyard teahouse, a local favourite. The house special, spicy liángfěn (凉粉; ¥8), made of mung bean and potato starch, won the prize for being the best in the region. The hours are a bit erratic in practice, but officially they're open from 8am to 11pm.
Song in the MountainCHINESE, WESTERN$
(山里子之歌川菜馆; Shānlizǐ Zhīgē Chuān Càiguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %189 0904 3640; Shunjiang Beilu; 顺江北路 mains ¥18-45; h8.30am-11.30pm; Wv)
Run by the helpful Sarah Yang, this small restaurant serves a variety of simple but tasty Western and Chinese dishes at reasonable prices. Dozens of hand-written endorsements line the walls, testifying to its ongoing popularity with both local and foreign travellers.
Emma’s KitchenCAFE, PIZZA$$
(小欧洲西咖啡餐厅; Xiǎo Ōuzhōu Xī Kāfēi Cāntīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0837 723 1088, 131 0837 2888; [email protected]; Shunjiang Beilu; 顺江北路 mains ¥18-58; h8am-midnight; W)
Sōngpān’s main traveller hang-out is this laid-back cafe with wi-fi and fresh coffee (from ¥28), pizza and other Western fare, along with a range of Chinese dishes. Emma is exceedingly knowledgable and can sort out almost anything from laundry to tickets to picnic lunches for your horse trek, and leads on mountain-biking tours (from ¥220).
This is where you check-in for Emma's Guesthouse.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Zūwū Heritage HouseCAFE
(祖屋客栈; Zūwū Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0837 723 1011; 45 Minshan Cun; 岷山村45号 h8am-midnight; W)
Centred on a large tree-shaded courtyard, this combination teahouse/cafe/guesthouse is a chilled-out place to relax by day or a classy spot for a drink by night with drinks for all hours starting from around ¥20.
7Shopping
Jīnmíngzhū SupermarketMARKET
(金明珠购物中心; Jīnmíngzhū Gòuwùzhōngxīn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; North Gate square; 北门广场 h8.30am-9.30pm)
At the foot of the square just inside the old town's North Gate, this supermarket is the best place in town to stock up on food for trips into the countryside.
8Information
It is not currently possible to change foreign currency in Sōngpān. The ATMs at the Agricultural Bank of China (中国农业银行; Nóngyè Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; Shunjiang Beilu; 顺江北路 ) accept Visa and MasterCard, though many travellers report problems accessing their foreign accounts.
Internet CafeINTERNET
(沙巴克网吧; Shābākè Wǎngbā GOOGLE MAP ; old-town Nanjie; 古镇南街 per hr ¥10; h24hr; W)
Upstairs off a side street on the southern foot of the central covered bridge. No English sign.
Public Security BureauVISA AGENCY
(PSB; 公安局; Gōng’ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; %0837 723 3778; East Gate square; 东门广场 h8.30am-noon & 3-6pm)
The PSB office can usually renew visas in one working day, though they may refer you to the new district (新区) main office (a ¥10 taxi ride) if the necessary personnel are not on hand. It's at the top of the square just inside the East Gate.
MONEY TIPS
Note that banks in this region cannot change foreign currency, though ATMs do accept foreign cards.
8Getting There & Away
Air
There’s no public transport between Sōngpān and the nearby Jiǔhuáng Airport. A taxi should be around ¥100 (¥150 at night).
Bus
Buses leaving Sōn
gpān's bus station (汽车站; Qìchēzhàn GOOGLE MAP ) include:
AChéngdū ¥110, 8½ hours, four daily (6am, 6.30am, 7am, 12.30pm)
ADūjiāngyàn ¥107, 6½ hours, one daily (7.20am)
AHuánglóng National Park ¥28, two hours, three daily (6am, 7am, 2pm)
AJiǔzhàigōu ¥40 to ¥46, 2½ hours, two daily (9am, 1pm)
AZöigě ¥50, three hours, one daily (6.20am)
Train
Train Booking Office (售票处; Shòupiàochù GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-5.30pm) While Sōngpān is not connected to China's rail network, this small booking office in the heart of the old town can procure tickets for onward travel from ¥5 per booking.
8Getting Around
Pedicabs ( GOOGLE MAP ) wait on the west end of Gulou Jie (鼓楼街) to give rides, generally starting at ¥5.
Jiǔzhàigōu National Park 九寨沟风景名胜区
%0837 / Pop 67,039 / Elev 2175m
Jiǔzhàigōu National Park (九寨沟风景名胜区), an enchanting Unesco World Heritage Site, is one of Sìchuān’s and even China's star attractions. More than two million people visit annually to gawk at its famous bluer-than-blue lakes, rushing waterfalls and deep woodlands backlit by snowy mountain ranges. The park's major sights are easily accessed on foot, via kilometres of well-maintained boardwalk trails, or by bus. There are even opportunities to camp.
Jiǔzhàigōu means ‘Nine Village Valley’ and refers to the nine Tibetan villages scattered in the parklands. According to Tibetan legend, Jiǔzhàigōu was created when a jealous devil caused the goddess Wunosemo to drop her magic mirror, a present from her lover the warlord god, Dage. The mirror dropped to the ground and shattered into 114 shimmering turquoise lakes.
Lonely Planet China Page 159
