Climate
Part of the Loess Plateau, Níngxià is composed primarily of arid mountain ranges and highlands in a region of very low rainfall. Summer temperatures soar during the day, while winters are long and often freezing; spring is lovely, though blustery.
8Getting There & Away
Níngxià’s capital Yínchuān is the major flight hub, although Zhōngwèi has an airport, as does Bayanhot (for connections within Inner Mongolia). Trains connect Yínchuān, Zhōngwèi and Gùyuán with neighbouring provinces, as do long-distance buses.
8Getting Around
Níngxià is so small you can cross it by vehicle it in a few hours. Buses go everywhere, sometimes slowly, while trains connect the major towns.
Yínchuān 银川
%0951 / Pop 750,000
In the sun-parched land of Níngxià, Yínchuān (银川) has managed to thrive. The Tangut founders wisely chose this spot as their capital, planting the city between a source of water (the Yellow River) and a natural barrier from the Gobi Desert (the Hèlán Shān mountains).
Modern-day Yínchuān is predominantly Han, although its many mosques reveal its status as the capital of the Hui peoples’ homeland. But the most interesting sights, the Western Xia Tombs and Hèlán Shān to the west of the city, predate both the Han and the Hui. Yínchuān is also a handy jumping-off point for longer trips to western Inner Mongolia.
The name Yínchuān means 'Silver River'. Some say it comes from the alkaline land which can appear white, while others say that it's because the Yellow River is clear in these parts and can appear bright, but the exact origin is obscure.
History
The Western Xia, or Tanguts, were descendants of tribes forced to flee the northeastern Tibetan plateau towards the end of the 10th century. Although short-lived, at the kingdom's height it encompassed an area composed of modern-day Gānsù, Níngxià, Shaanxi and Western Inner Mongolia, and even rivalled the Song and Liao dynasties.
The Western Xia present such an enigma today because nearly all traces of their civilisation vanished in one fell swoop – thanks to the Mongols, who virtually obliterated them in 1227. Yínchuān was besieged for a year; towards the end of the siege, Genghis Khan died, possibly while fighting against the Western Xia. The city was then taken and most of its inhabitants put to the sword. However, if one were to believe Marco Polo, and also archaeological evidence uncovered in Kharakhoto (near Ejin Qi, Inner Mongolia), it's possible that some form of Western Xia culture survived for at least another hundred years.
Yínchuān
1Sights
1Chéngtiānsì PagodaB2
2Nánxūn MénD2
4Sleeping
3Yínchuān HotelD1
5Eating
4Dà Mā Jiǎozi GuǎnC1
5Xiānhè LóuD2
6Drinking & Nightlife
6Liángyuán BarD1
1Sights
Yínchuān is divided into three parts. Xīxià Qū (西夏区; New City), the new industrialised section, is on the western outskirts. Jīnfèng Qū (金凤区) is the central district (the train station is on Jīnfèng’s western edge). Xìngqìng Qū (兴庆区; Old City) is 12km east of the train station and has most of the town’s sights.
oHǎibǎo PagodaBUDDHIST PAGODA
(海宝塔; Hǎibǎo Tǎ Hǎibǎo Park, Minzu Beijie; 民族北街的海宝公园 ¥10)
This fantastically well-preserved pagoda in the north of town is a beauty. Its cross-shaped (from above), straight-edged and tapering form was exquisitely built. The pagoda was slightly damaged during the 2008 Sìchuān earthquake, so sadly can no longer be climbed, but repair work may reopen it down the line. For now, it is a highly photogenic element of the surrounding temple, while to the south lie the waters and willow trees of South Lake.
The steeple is also rather unusual in its design, although it is similar to the town's other famous pagoda, Chéngtiānsì Pagoda. Also known as North Pagoda (北塔; Běitǎ) and at one time also called the Black Pagoda, the structure was possibly originally built in the 5th century (although the exact date is unknown), before being toppled by an earthquake in 1739. It was then rebuilt in its current form in 1771. Take bus 29 from the Drum Tower, then enter by the east gate which will take you to the pagoda (and the lovely lakeside park it is located in).
Western Xià TombsHISTORIC SITE
(西夏王陵; Xīxià Wánglíng ¥60; h8am-5.30pm, to 6pm summer)
The Western Xia Tombs, which resemble giant beehives, are Níngxià’s most celebrated sight. The first tombs were built a millennium ago by Li Yuanhao, the founder of the Western Xia dynasty. There are nine imperial tombs, plus 200 lesser tombs, in an area of 50 sq km – there are electric carts if you’re not up for walking. The tomb you’ll see belongs to Li Yuanhao; it's a 23m-tall tomb originally constructed as an octagonal seven-storey wooden pagoda. All that remains is the large earthen core. Permits, usually organised through local tour operators, are required to visit other tombs in the area.
The examples of Buddhist art in the good site museum (8am to 5.30pm) offer a rare glimpse into the ephemeral Western Xia culture, and point to clear artistic influences from neighbouring Tibet and Central Asia. There are also many fascinating artefacts excavated from Li Yuanhao’s tomb.
The tombs are 33km west of Yínchuān. A return taxi costs from around ¥150 (including waiting time). Regular buses (¥12, every 30 minutes, 7am to 7pm) run past the tombs from the bus station next to the Nánguān Mosque (南关清真寺; Nánguān Qīngzhènsí), not far from South Gate Square (南门广场; Nánmén Guǎngchǎng); you will need to tell the driver you want to get off at the tombs. From the South Gate, you could also take bus 2 or 4 to its terminus in Xīxià Qū and then take a van (around ¥40 each way) from there. As the site is on the road towards Bayanhot, you can get off any bus heading that way.
Chéngtiānsì PagodaBUDDHIST PAGODA
(承天寺塔; Chéngtiānsì Tǎ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jinning Nanjie; admission ¥5, climb pagoda ¥20; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun, to 5.30pm summer)
Climb the 13 storeys of steep, narrow stairs of this brick pagoda topped with a green spire for 360-degree views of Yínchuān. The pagoda is also known as Xī Tǎ (西塔; West Pagoda) and dates back almost 1000 years to the Western Xia dynasty, though it has been rebuilt several times since, especially after it toppled during the great Níngxià earthquake of 1738; the current pagoda dates to 1820. Buses 9, 10, 24 and 25 all reach the temple.
Nánxūn MénGATE
(南薰门; Nánxūn Mén MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Nanxun Dongjie; 南薰东街 )
The sole surviving gate of the old town wall, Nánxūn Mén looks south out onto Nanmen Sq (南门广场; Nánmén Guǎngchǎng) from its position east of Nanxun Dongjie. The two viewing platforms were added in the 1970s, making a faithful duplication in miniature of Běijīng's Gate of Heavenly Peace – Tiān'ānmén, which looks over Tiān'ānmén Sq. Mao's portrait was added, to perfect the copy.
Nánguān MosqueMOSQUE
(南关清真寺; Nánguān Qīngzhèn Sì GOOGLE MAP ; Yuhuangge Nanjie; 玉皇阁南街 ¥12; h8am to 6pm)
This modern Middle Eastern–style mosque is a 1981 rebuild of the Ming-dynasty mosque that was entirely destroyed during the Cultural Revolution
Shuǐ Dòng GōuARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
(水洞沟 h8am-6pm)
The archaeological site of Shuǐ Dòng Gōu, 25km east of Yínchuān, right on the border with Inner Mongolia, has been turned into something of an adventure theme park. The site is divided into two parts; the first is a museum that resembles Jabba the Hutt’s bunker and which contains the Palaeolithic-era relics first uncovered here in 1923.
From there, it’s a golf-cart ride to an unrestored section of the Great Wall dating back to the Ming dynasty. Then it’s a walk, boat trip, donkey- and camel-cart ride to a fortress with an elaborate network of underground tunnels once used by Chinese soldiers defending the Wall. The renovated tunnels include trap doors, false passages and booby traps.
The catch is
that the admission price to Shuǐ Dòng Gōu only lets you into the site itself. Everything else – the museum, fort and all transport – costs extra, making this an expensive day out. Unless you fancy an 8km walk around the complex, the cheapest way to do it is to buy the through ticket (通票, tōngpiào) for ¥130. Standard admission costs ¥60.
Buses run from Yínchuān’s southern bus terminal past Shuǐ Dòng Gōu (¥12, 40 minutes, eight daily) from 7.30am to 5.30pm. To return, wait by the highway and flag down any passing Yínchuān-bound bus.
WORTH A TRIP
108 DAGOBAS
108 DagobasBUDDHIST SITE
(一百零八塔; Yībǎilíngbā Tǎ ¥60)
This unusual arrangement of Tibetan-style Buddhist dagobas, or stupas, is 83km south of Yínchuān, not far from the town of Qīngtóngxiá (青铜峡). The 12 rows of (much renovated) brick vaselike structures date from the Yuan dynasty and are arranged in a large triangular constellation on the banks of the Yellow River.
Take a bus (¥25, 2½ hours) from Yínchuān long-distance bus station to Qīngtóngxiá and then take bus 2 to the Qīngtóngxiá Hydroelectric Station (青铜峡水电站; Qīngtóngxiá Shuǐdiànzhàn) and take a boat (included in the admission ticket) to the far bank.
4Sleeping
There are several decent choices in Xìngqìng Qū in all price brackets. This is the part of town to base yourself in, for history, character and tourist amenities.
oYínchuān HotelHOTEL$
(银川宾馆; Yínchuān Bīnguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0951 603 7666; 28 Yuhuangge Nanjie; 玉皇阁南街28号 d ¥138-238; W)
Yes, it's an old-school clunker. Yes, a pompous grand classical portico greets you. Yes, a vast dusty chandelier hangs from its capacious lobby ceiling. But this place has lovely staff and the rooms are huge, and a bargain. For ¥138 you acquire a colossal room with swirly carpet, flat-screen TV, shower room and more-than-acceptable beds.
Holiday InnHOTEL$$$
(假日酒店; Jiàrì Jiǔdiàn %0951 7800 000; www.holidayinn.com.cn; 141 Jiefang Xijie; 解放西街141号 d ¥600-2488, ste ¥2488-4888; naWs)
Opened around four years ago, this hotel at the Yínchuān International Trade Centre is excellent, offering a range of stylish amenities, professional service, comfortable, well-equipped contemporary rooms and a choice of smart dining options, as well as a smooth bar. The inviting 18m swimming pool is a further draw.
PRICE RANGES
EATING
The following price ranges are for a main course.
$ less than ¥30
$$ ¥30–¥50
$$$ more than ¥50
SLEEPING
The following prices are for a double room with shower or bathroom.
Category Cost
$ less than ¥250
$$ ¥250–¥400
$$$ more than ¥400
5Eating
oXiānhè LóuCHINESE$
(仙鹤楼 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 204 Xinhua Dongjie; 新华东街204号 dishes from ¥15; h24hr)
This fantastic, cavernous place opens round the clock, serving both big spenders and budget-seekers. You could splash out on the pricey fish dishes or the gorgeous kǎoyángpái (烤羊排; barbecued ribs; ¥108) from the picture menu, but a half jīn of fried lamb dumplings (羊肉煎饺; yángròu jiānjiǎo; ¥28) makes for a filling meal for one, arriving with a crimson soy sauce and chilli dip.
Dà Mā Jiǎozi GuǎnDUMPLINGS$
(大妈饺子馆 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 32 Jiefang Dongjie; 解放东街32号 dumplings per half jīn from ¥15; h11am-9.30pm; W)
This popular place is dedicated to Chinese dumplings which come by the jīn, but you can order a half or quarter jīn, and there are all sorts of beef, prawn and vegie options as well as pot-stickers (锅贴; guōtiē) – delicious fried dumplings, too. Plenty of other soups, meat, fish and noodle dishes also available in the large, glossy photo (English) menu.
oQuánjùdéPEKING DUCK$$
(全聚德 Jiefang Dongjie; 解放东街 half-duck ¥76; h11am-10pm)
If you pine for Peking duck, Quánjùdé steps up to the plate. For ¥76 you get half a duck, a meal for one, served with cucumber, scallions and hoisin sauce. Purists maintain that the best Peking duck is served within earshot of the Forbidden City, but as a Běijīng institution, Quánjùdé is a close second.
The picture menu is Chinese only, but you can ask either for a whole duck (一只烤鸭; yīzhī kǎoyā) or a half duck (半只烤鸭; bànzhī kǎoyā). The chef carves it for you at your table, as in Běijīng.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Liángyuán BarBAR
(凉缘酒吧 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 127 Wenhua Dongjie; 文化东街127号 beer from ¥25; h10.30am-1am; W)
This pretty standard, rock-steady bar has been dishing up drinks and live music since 1998. It's a seasoned spot with cratered and scratched tables, Tiffany lampshades and a range of Belgian brews plus other cheaper brands. The live band kicks off at around 9.30pm, with Bob Marley, Coldplay and other anthemic numbers bringing on sporadic applause.
8Information
All hotels and a fair number of restaurants have wi-fi.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; 170 Jiefang Xijie; 解放西街170号 h8am-noon & 2.30-6pm)
You can change travellers cheques and use the 24-hour ATM at this main branch. Other branches change cash only.
China Comfort International Travel ServiceTRAVEL AGENCY
(CCT; 康辉旅游; Kānghuī Lǚyóu GOOGLE MAP ; %0951 504 5678; 317 Jiefang Xijie; 解放西街317号 h8.30am-noon & 2.30-6pm Mon-Fri)
Organises desert trips, rafting and permits for Éjìnà Qí (Inner Mongolia). It’s located 2km west along a road running from the Drum Tower to just before the Fenghuangjie intersection.
China PostPOST
(中国邮政; Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jiefang Xijie & Minzu Beijie; 解放西街民族北街的路口 h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Handily located post office.
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB; 公安局; Gōng’ānjú 472 Beijing Donglu; h8.30am-noon & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri)
For visa extensions. It’s on a busy intersection near a hospital, a large park and schools. Take bus 3 from the Drum Tower.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Yínchuān Hedong International Airport (银川河东国际机场; Yínchuān Hédōng Guójì Jīchǎng) is located by the Yellow River, 24km southeast of the Drum Tower and Xìngqìng Qū. Flights connect Yínchuān with Běijīng (¥900), Chéngdū (¥1100), Guǎngzhōu (¥1150), Shànghǎi (¥900), Ürümqi (¥1080) and Xī’ān (¥380). Buy tickets at www.ctrip.com or www.elong.net.
Bus
The main South Bus Station (银川汽车站; Yínchuān qìchēzhàn) is 5km south of Nanmen Sq on the road to Zhōngwèi. Departures run to the following destinations:
ABayanhot ¥30, two to three hours, every 40 minutes (7.20am to 6pm)
AGùyuán ¥68 to ¥90, five hours, every 20 minutes (6.15am to 6.54pm)
ALánzhōu ¥140, six hours, every 45 minutes (7.20am to 5.05pm)
AXī’ān ¥181, eight to 10 hours, six daily (8.30am to 7pm), last three are sleepers
AYán’ān ¥136, 5¼ hours, four daily (8.50am to 2.10pm)
AZhōngwèi (¥35), two hours, every 30 minutes (7.35am to 6.15pm)
Some buses north to Inner Mongolia also go from the northern (tourism) bus station (北门车站; běimén chēzhàn). Bus 316 (¥1) trundles between it and the main bus station.
From the southern terminal the express buses (kuàikè) to Zhōngwèi and Gùyuán are far quicker than the local buses that stop at every village along the way.
Train
Yínchuān is on the Lánzhōu–Běijīng railway line, which runs via Hohhot (11 hours) and Dàtóng (13½ hours) before reaching Běijīng (21 hours). If you’re heading for Lánzhōu, the handy overnight K9679 train (hard/soft sleeper ¥130/194, seven to nine hours) leaves at 10.40pm, arriving at around 7am. For Xī’ān, the K1
615 (hard/soft sleeper ¥230/351, 15½ hours) leaves Yínchuān at 7.05pm, arriving in Xī’ān at 7.20am.
The train station is in Xīxià Qū, about 12km west of the Xìngqìng Qū centre. Book sleeper tickets well in advance. A train ticket booking office (South Bus Station; h8am-noon & 1-7pm) can be found at the South Bus Station.
8Getting Around
The airport is 25km from the Xìngqìng Qū (Old City) centre; buses (¥20, 30 minutes, hourly 6am to 6pm) arrive and leave from in front of the Civil Aviation Administration of China office on Changcheng Donglu, just south of Nanmen Sq. A taxi to/from the airport costs around ¥60.
Between 6am and 11.30pm green BRT bus 1 (¥1) runs from the southern bus terminal (from the bus shelter in the middle of the road) to Nanmen Sq (10 minutes) in Xìngqìng Qū, via Nanmen Sq and along Jiefang Jie and on to the train station in Xīxià Qū (40 to 50 minutes). Buses 45 (¥1, 6.40am to 8pm) and 521 (¥1, 7am to 10.30pm) also run from the train station to Nanmen Sq.
Taxis cost ¥7 for the first 3km. A taxi between the train station and Xìngqìng Qū costs ¥20 to ¥30. A taxi to the South Bus Station from Nanmen Sq is ¥12.
Lonely Planet China Page 180
