6Drinking & Nightlife
23DunyaB1
Summit CaféA2
7Shopping
24DropenlingD3
25Outlook Outdoor EquipmentC1
8Information
26Shigatse TravelsB1
27Tibet Highland ToursB2
28Tibet Roof of World International TravelA1
29Tibet Songtsan International Travel CompanyB2
oChagpo Ri Rock CarvingsHISTORIC SITE
(药王山; Yàowáng Shān MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Deji Zhonglu; admission ¥10; hdawn-dusk)
This hidden corner of Lhasa features more than 5000 painted rock carvings that were created on the back side of Chagpo Ri over the course of a millennium. Throughout the day, pilgrims perform full-body prostrations in front of the images, while stone carvers at the far end of the courtyard contribute to a large chörten built entirely of the carvers’ mani stones. The best way to visit the area is as part of the Lingkhor pilgrim route.
Barkhor SquareSQUARE
(八角广场, Bājiǎo Guǎngchǎng MAP GOOGLE MAP )
For your first visit to the Barkhor, enter from Barkhor Sq, a large plaza that was cleared in 1985. The square has been a focus for violent political protest on several occasions, notably in 1998 (when a Dutch tourist was shot in the shoulder) and most recently in 2008. The square is now bordered by metal detectors, riot-squad vehicles, fire-extinguisher teams (to prevent self-immolations) and rooftop surveillance. Despite the stream of selfie-taking tourists, the atmosphere is one of occupation or siege.
Tibet MuseumMUSEUM
(འགྲེམས་སྟོན་ཁང་, 西藏博物馆, Xīzàng Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Minzu Nanlu; h9.30am‑5.30pm Tue-Sun)F
This museum has some interesting exhibits and heavy Communist Party propaganda. Starting with the prehistory of Tibet, the multiple halls cover everything from weapons and musical instruments to folk handicrafts and fine ancient thangkas (Tibetan sacred art). A useful handheld audio self-touring device (¥10) is available if you bring your passport as a deposit.
DAILY COSTS
Budget: Less than US$75
ARoom without bathroom: US$8–12
AMeal in a local restaurant: US$5
AMonastery entry fee: US$5–15
Midrange: US$75–150
ADouble room with bathroom: US$30–60
AShort taxi ride: US$1.50
AGuide per day: US$40
Top End: More than US$150
ABoutique or four-star hotel: US$90–150
AMain course in a top restaurant: US$8–10
CCourses
Higher Ground Treks & ToursTOUR
(%0891-686 5352; [email protected]; 75 Beijing Zhonglu)
The head of this trekking agency, Karma Khampa, was once a manager at the long-standing Tibet International Sports Travel.
zFestivals & Events
Losar FestivalRELIGIOUS
(hFeb)
New Year celebrations take place in the first week of the first lunar month (February), with performances of Tibetan opera, prayer ceremonies at the Jokhang and Nechung Monastery, and the streets thronged with Tibetans dressed in their finest.
Saga DawaRELIGIOUS
(hMay or Jun)
The 15th day (full moon) of the fourth lunar month (May/June) sees huge numbers of pilgrims walking and prostrating along the Lingkhor and Barkhor pilgrim circuits. Follow the locals’ cue and change ¥10 into a fat wad of one-máo notes to hand out as alms during the walk.
Drepung FestivalRELIGIOUS
(hJul)
The 30th day of the sixth lunar month (July) is celebrated with the hanging at dawn of a huge thangka at Drepung Monastery. Lamas and monks perform opera in the main courtyard.
Shötun FestivalRELIGIOUS
(hAug)
The first week of the seventh lunar month (August) sees the unveiling of a giant thangka at Drepung Monastery; festivities then move down to Sera and to the Norbulingka for performances of lhamo (Tibetan opera) and some epic picnics.
Tsongkhapa FestivalRELIGIOUS
(hDec)
Much respect is shown to Tsongkhapa, the founder of the Gelugpa order, on the anniversary of his death on the 25th day of the 10th lunar month (December). Check for processions and monk dances at the monasteries at Ganden, Sera and Drepung.
LHASA IN...
TWO DAYS
On arrival in Lhasa you need at least two days to adjust to the altitude; you can expect to be tired and headachey most of the time. We recommend adding an extra day and taking the first day very easy.
Start at Barkhor Square, finding your legs on a relaxed stroll around the Barkhor circuit before visiting the Jokhang. Grab lunch at nearby Snowland Restaurant or Lhasa Kitchen. In the afternoon head to Sera Monastery to catch the monks debating. If your headache’s gone, round off the day with a cold Lhasa Beer at Dunya ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 100 Beijing Donglu; beer ¥15; h3-11pm) or on the roof of Shambhala Palace.
On day two visit the Potala Palace at your allotted time and then spend the afternoon losing yourself in the fascinating old town.
FOUR DAYS
With four days you could leave the Potala until day three, and add on a stroll around the Potala kora ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), grabbing some sweet te a in a teahouse en route. On day four leave the city on a day trip out to Ganden Monastery, visiting the hermitage caves of Drak Yerpa (བྲག་ཡར་པ་; 扎叶巴寺; Zhā Yèbā Sì admission ¥30) on the way back. Try to budget some time for handicraft shopping at Dropenling.
4Sleeping
The Tibetan eastern end of town is easily the most interesting place to be based, with accommodation options in all budgets. There are dozens of shiny, characterless Chinese-style hotels scattered around other parts of town. You might find yourself in one of these if you arrive on a tour or book a hotel online.
Note that most of the budget places don’t accept reservations.
Banak SholHOTEL$
(八郎学宾馆, Bālángxué Bīnguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-632 3829; 8 Beijing Donglu; dm ¥50, d/tr without bathroom ¥100/150, d with bathroom ¥150-160; W)
It's a mixed picture at this backpacker stalwart. The newest triple rooms without bathroom are spacious, fresh and carpeted, and the shared shower blocks are sparkling. The recently renovated Chinese-style standard rooms with bathroom are normally the cheapest such options in town. Avoid the older roadside doubles and singles, though, as these are still small, noisy and overpriced.
Bike HostelHOSTEL$
(风马飞扬旅舍, Fēngmǎ Fēiyáng Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-679 0250; www.tibetbike.com; dm ¥33-50, d without/with bathroom ¥120/180; W)
This tidy courtyard hostel (north of Beijing Donglu behind the Yak Hotel) is a decent budget option, especially if you speak some Chinese and want to connect with the many overland Chinese cyclists here. The en-suite rooms are bright, modern and good value, and the dorms come with shared hot showers and free washing-machine access.
Dōngcuò International Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(东措国际青年旅馆, Dōngcuò Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-627 3388; [email protected]; 10 Beijing Donglu; dm ¥30-55, s/d/tr with bathroom ¥120/140/180, r without bathroom ¥80-120; iW)
Lhasa's best Chinese-run hostel attracts mainly Chinese backpackers, though a few foreign travellers find their way here. Rooms are smallish but well maintained, with wooden floors and crisp white sheets, but the graffiti-covered walls beloved by Chinese backpackers add to the slightly grim, institutional feel. Bike rental (¥30) and a laundry service are bonuses. Prices rise in July and August.
oYak HotelHOTEL$$
(亚宾馆, Yà Bīnguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-630 0195; 100 Beijing Donglu; dm ¥50, d ¥240-650, r VIP ¥880; aiW)
The ever-popular Yak has matured in recent years from backpacker hang-out to tour-group favourite, eschewing the cramped dorm rooms (there are three left) for a range of comfortable en-suite rooms. Reservations are recommended throug
h your agency (online booking websites are currently unreliable). The 5th-floor breakfast bar offers great views of the Potala. Walk-in discounts of 40% are standard.
Tashi Choeta Tibetan Folk HotelHOTEL$$
(扎西曲塔风情酒店, Zhāxī Qūtǎ Fēngqíng Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %139 8998 5865; aiW)
This new hotel (opened in 2016) has a great location on the edge of the old town, with 58 comfortable Tibetan-style rooms ranged around a sunny atrium. The superior rooms are more spacious; all are set around a central courtyard restaurant. Prices were not fixed at the time of research.
oKyichu HotelHOTEL$$$
(吉曲饭店, Jíqǔ Fàndiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-633 1541; www.lhasakyichuhotel.com; 18 Beijing Donglu; r standard/deluxe from ¥480/580; aiW)
The renovated Kyichu is a friendly and well-run choice that’s very popular with repeat travellers to Tibet. Rooms are comfortable and pleasant, with wooden floors, underfloor heating, Tibetan carpets and private bathrooms, but the real selling points are the location, the excellent service and – that rarest of Lhasa commodities – a peaceful garden courtyard (with espresso coffee). Reservations recommended.
oShambhala PalaceBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(香巴拉宫, Xiāngbālā Gōng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-630 7779; www.shambhalaserai.com; 16 Taibeng Gang; r incl breakfast ¥480-720; hclosed mid-Jan–end Apr; iW)
This quiet 17-room hotel is hidden deep in the old town, offering stylish rooms, a spacious rooftop and good service. Avoid the smallest rooms, though. Manager Nyima Tashi is particularly helpful. Low-season discounts of 20% are available.
oHouse of ShambhalaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(桌玛拉宫, Zhuōmǎlā Gōng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-632 6533; www.shambhalaserai.com; 7 Jiri Erxiang, 吉日二巷7号 d incl breakfast ¥490-980; hclosed mid-Jan–end Apr; i)
Hidden in the old town in a historic Tibetan building, the romantic, boutique-style Shambhala mixes the neighbourhood's earthy charm with buckets of style and a great rooftop lounge, making it perfect for couples who prefer atmosphere over mod cons. The 13 rooms, decorated in natural wood and slate with antique Tibetan furniture, vary only in size.
PRICE RANGES
EATING
The following price ranges refer to a standard dish in Chinese restaurants or a main course in Western restaurants. There are no additional taxes, though some higher-end places may add a service charge.
$ less than ¥30
$$ ¥30–80
$$$ more than ¥80
SLEEPING
The following price ranges refer to a standard double room before discounts. Unless otherwise stated, breakfast is not included.
$ less than ¥200
$$ ¥200–400
$$$ more than ¥400
5Eating
The best Tibetan, Nepali and Western restaurants are in the Tibetan quarter around Barkhor Sq. Almost all places offer decent breakfasts, perhaps the best being at Lhasa Kitchen (拉萨厨房, Lāsà Chúfáng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 3 Danjielin Lu; mains ¥20-30, Nepali sets ¥35; h9am-11pm) and Snowland. Most eateries serve lunch and dinner, but you will struggle to find a meal after about 10pm. For the flashiest Chinese restaurants you’ll have to head to the western districts.
Father Vegetarian RestaurantTIBETAN$
(父亲素食厨房, Fùqīn Sùshí Chúfáng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains ¥17-40; h11am-9.30pm; v)
This hole-in-the wall ('Yebche Gartse Suertob' in Tibetan) is a good place to get a cheap and authentic vegetarian lunch. There's no English menu, so consider going with your Tibetan guide. The combo dishes with rice are good value at ¥10 and the Tibetan-style fried mushrooms (臧式炒蘑菇, zāngshì chǎomógu) and dry hotpot (干锅, gànguō) dishes are particularly recommended.
Tibetan Family KitchenTIBETAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %138 8901 5053; dishes ¥15-40; h12:30-9pm; W)
For a taste of Tibetan homemade recipes such as yak meat in tomato sauce, put in an order with chef Namdon an hour or two in advance at this family-run kitchen. Better still, take the two-hour cooking class (¥100 per person, including dinner), during which you can learn to make authentic momos (dumplings) and Amdo-style noodles.
Seyzhong Nongze Bösey RestaurantTIBETAN$
(金臧特宝藏餐, Jīnzāng Tèbǎo Zāngcaān MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ramoche Lam; dishes ¥15-35)
Super-convenient if you’re visiting the next-door Ramoche Temple (ར་མོ་ཆེ་, 小昭寺; Xiǎozhāo Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥20; h7.30am-8pm), this pleasant upstairs Amdo Tibetan restaurant offers great views over the street below from the low Tibetan-style tables. Try the set meal of shemdre (meat, rice and curried potatoes) for ¥25 or choose something more adventurous from the photo menu, such as the sizzling beef and peppers or the tiger-skin chillies (虎皮青椒; hǔpíqīngjiāo).
oLhasa Namaste RestaurantINTERNATIONAL, NEPALI$$
(拉萨娜玛瑟德餐厅, Lāsà Nàmǎsèdé Cāntīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 11 Lugu Wu Xiang; mains ¥25-50; h11am-9:30pm)
It's worth battling the labyrinthine old-town backstreets to get to this Nepali-run restaurant, with a charming location in the garden courtyard of the Trichang Labrang Hotel (志江拉让宾馆, Chìjiāng Lāràng Bīnguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-630 9555; 11 Lugu Wu Xiang; r ¥340, ste ¥968; aiW). The rewards are some of Lhasa's tastiest curries, as well as sizzlers, yak burgers and cakes. Arrive before 6pm to get a table and leave a popcorn trail to find your way back again.
oSnowland RestaurantINTERNATIONAL$$
(雪域餐厅, Xuěyù Cāntīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-633 7323; 8 Danjielin Lu; dishes ¥25-70; h10am-10pm)
This old-timer has a new location but is still an extremely popular place that serves a mix of excellent Continental and Nepali food in very civilised surroundings. The Indian dishes are particularly good, especially the tasty chicken butter masala (¥55) and giant naan breads. The cakes are the best in town; give the lemon pie our fond regards.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oSummit CaféCAFE
(顶峰咖啡店, Dǐngfēng Kāfēidiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thetibetsummitcafe.com; 1 Danjielin Lu; coffee ¥22-30, mains ¥50-80; h8:30am-9:30pm; W)
With authentic espresso coffee and smoothies, free wi-fi and melt-in-your-mouth cheesecakes, plus salads, paninis, pizza and American-style breakfast waffles and pancakes, this coffeehouse is mocha-flavoured nirvana. It’s in the courtyard of the Shangbala Hotel (香巴拉酒店, Xiāngbālā Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-632 3888; 1 Danjielin Lu; aW), a stone’s throw from the Jokhang. There are other, less useful branches around town.
Dzongyab Lukhang Park Teahouse EastTEAHOUSE
(龙王潭风经情茶园; Lóngwángtán Fēngqíng Cháyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; tea ¥4)
One of two good teahouse restaurants in pleasant Dzongyab Lukhang Park. Grab a thermos of sweet tea or try a cheap lunch of shemdre (meat and curried potatoes; mains ¥15 to ¥20).
7Shopping
oDropenlingARTS & CRAFTS
(桌番林, Zhuōfānlín MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-633 0558; www.tibetcraft.com; 11 Chaktsalgang Lam; h10am-8pm)S
This impressive nonprofit enterprise aims to bolster traditional Tibetan handicrafts in the face of rising Chinese and Nepali imports. Products are unique and of high quality, and they are made using traditional techniques (natural dyes, wool not acrylic etc) updated with contemporary designs. Ask about the 90-minute artisan walking tour of Lhasa’s old town (¥30 per person).
Outlook Outdoor EquipmentSPORTS & OUTDOORS
(边塞远景户外装备, Biànsāi Yuǎnjǐng Hùwài Zhuāngbèi MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-633 8990; 11 Beijing Donglu)
This trekking shop has a dwindling selection of Western-quality sleeping bags (¥350 to ¥600), Gore-Tex jackets, and tents, plus hard-to-find imported knick-knacks such as altimeters, trekking socks and Primus cook sets. A limited amount of gear is also available for rent.
8Information
Dangers & Annoyances
If you fly straight into Lhasa, remember to take things easy for your firs
t day or two: it’s not uncommon to feel breathless, suffer from headaches and sleep poorly because of the altitude. Don’t attempt the steps up to the Potala for the first few days and drink lots of fluids.
Chinese armed-police posts and riot-squad teams currently occupy every street corner in the old town. Most Tibetans ignore them, but you should take care not to photograph any military posts or armed patrols.
Emergency Numbers
Ambulance 120
Fire 119
Police 11
Internet Access
Most public internet cafes won't accept foreigners without a local identity card. Almost all hotels and some cafes, including the Summit Café, offer free wi-fi to patrons.
Medical Services
120 Emergency CentreHOSPITAL
(急救中心, Jíjiù Zhōngxīn GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-633 2462; 16 Linkuo Beilu)
Part of People’s Hospital. Consultations cost around ¥150.
Tibet Military HospitalHOSPITAL
(西藏军区总医院, Xīzàng Jūnqū Zǒngyīyuàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0891-625 3120; Niangre Beilu)
Travellers who have received medical attention confirm that this place is the best option (if you have an option).
Lonely Planet China Page 192
