by Jan Berry
Customizing Your Lip Balm Recipes
Some garden herbs and flowers are more suited to lip balms than others.
A FEW HERBS AND FLOWERS TO CONSIDER INFUSING IN OIL FOR USE IN YOUR LIP BALM CREATIONS
Basil—skin repairing
Calendula—healing
Chamomile—anti-inflammatory
Daisy—heals damaged skin
Dandelion Flowers—for cracked, chapped skin
Lemon Balm—fights the virus that causes cold sores
Plantain—for chapped lips
Mint—lightly scents oil
Rose—soothing
Sunflower Petals—skin conditioning
Violet Leaf—for flaky, dry lips
SOME OILS THAT DO WELL IN LIP BALM
Apricot Oil—for sensitive or mature skin
Avocado Oil—nourishing
Castor Oil—highly recommended, adds gloss and smoothness
Coconut Oil—melts easily, so counts as an oil instead of solid butter
Grapeseed Oil—light, absorbs quickly
Hemp Seed Oil—nutritious
Olive Oil—all-purpose, easy to find
Sunflower Oil—light, heals damaged skin
Sweet Almond Oil—softens lips
Tamanu Oil—helps a variety of skin conditions
While they’re an optional component, cosmetic butters can enrich your recipe and help your lip balm to stay on longer. Shea, mango or avocado butter are soft enough that you can add them to the recipe, if you’d like, without them adversely affecting the ratios of oil to wax. However, if you decide to use a hard butter such as cocoa or kokum instead, you may need to add 3 or 4 extra grams of oil to compensate for the extra firmness they bring to lip balm.
SOME GOOD BUTTER CHOICES
Cocoa Butter—rich and creamy, protects skin
Kokum Butter—for dry, cracked skin, a good substitute for cocoa butter
Shea Butter—for weathered, dry skin, unrefined tends to have a distinctive smell
Mango Butter—moisturizes and softens, can be exchanged for shea butter
Avocado Butter—wonderfully smooth and nourishing, suitable for those with tree nut allergies
Adding Colors and Essential Oils to Lip Balms
Since lip balms contain oils and no water, they should be colored with oil-soluble colorants such as:
Alkanet Root—use a tiny pinch to get colors ranging from pink to dark red
Annatto Seed—for shades of orange
Chlorella—for a pale shade of lime green
For best results, infuse your oil with the natural colorant a few days ahead of time, then strain through a cheese cloth before using. This keeps little specks from appearing in your balm.
Colored clays are not recommended, since they may pull moisture from your lips and dry them out.
The judicious use of essential oils can add a delightful scent to your lip balm. In some ways they act as a light flavoring, too, but not like the candy-flavored lip balms you may remember from your youth. Cold-pressed lemon and lime oils are phototoxic, which means they can make you more prone to sunburn if you apply them before outdoor activities; however, distilled versions are available and are safer to use.
Lemon—distilled only
Lime—distilled only
Mandarin
Tangerine
Sweet Orange
Peppermint
Rose
Spearmint
Vanilla Absolute
For a hint of chocolate, try stirring in a pinch of unsweetened cocoa powder, unrefined cocoa butter or a few chocolate chips into the melted lip balm before pouring into tubes or tins.
Adding Honey to Lip Balm
Lip balm is a naturally anhydrous product. That means it contains all oil and no water. Honey, however, is a water-based product. While we know that water and oil won’t readily mix, it is possible to make a lip balm with honey, with a few caveats.
After melting your lip balm ingredients, remove from heat and stir in the honey while it’s still hot. For the lip balm formula given in this book, you can try adding around ¼ teaspoon honey. Stir continuously for about 2 minutes, then let the mixture sit until it starts to firm up. Stir again for 2 to 3 more minutes and spoon into tubes or small jars. The extra stirring will help the honey better incorporate into the lip balm, though over time, it will still tend to bead out. Don’t store a honey-containing lip balm in tins, since any type of water-based ingredient could make them rust.
Chamomile Lip Scrub
Winter weather and heated indoor air can play havoc on skin, hair and lips. Use this gentle scrub, once every week or two, followed by a nourishing lip balm, to remedy dry, flaky lips. Chamomile was chosen for this recipe because of its ability to soothe and relieve irritation and inflammation. Sunflower is excellent for repairing broken skin, but other oils that work well in this recipe include olive, sweet almond, rosehip, jojoba, hemp and avocado.
YIELD: ¼ CUP (60 ML) OF LIP SCRUB
2 tbsp (30 ml) sunflower oil
1 tbsp (1 g) dried chamomile flowers
2 tbsp (26 g) granulated sugar
Using one of the methods here, infuse the sunflower oil with the chamomile flowers. Strain the finished oil.
Combine the sugar and infused oil and stir well. Spoon into a glass jar. Store in a cool location, out of direct sunlight.
To use, rub a small amount over dry, flaky lips with your finger. Be light-handed and gentle as the skin on your lips is very thin and sensitive. Although the ingredients are technically edible and won’t harm you if licked, this recipe isn’t intended for consumption. Rinse the scrub off with warm water and follow with a handmade, moisturizing lip balm from earlier in the chapter.
Mint Lip Scrub
This naturally colored lip scrub is a delightful way to use mint from the garden. Common white sugar is a brilliant exfoliant that works to polish away dry, flaky skin. It’s paired here with nourishing sweet almond oil to help soften and condition your lips. If you’re allergic to almonds or other tree nuts, try olive, sunflower or avocado oil instead. Because scrubs are intensive treatments and lips are delicate, it’s best to use this scrub only once every week or two, followed by a moisturizing lip balm, for softer, smoother lips.
YIELD: 3 TABLESPOONS (37 G) MINT LIP SCRUB
2 tbsp (26 g) granulated sugar
2 to 3 fresh mint leaves, chopped
1 tbsp (15 ml) sweet almond oil
Using a small food processor, blend the sugar and mint leaves until finely ground and evenly mixed. Spread the sugar out over a sheet of wax paper to dry for 1 to 2 days. The sugar will retain a fresh green color, even when dried. If needed, run the mint sugar through the food processor once more to smooth out any clumps before proceeding with the recipe.
Combine the sugar and oil together in a small jar.
To use, rub a small amount over dry, flaky lips with your finger. Be light-handed and gentle, as the skin on your lips is very thin and sensitive. Although the ingredients are technically edible and won’t harm you if licked, this recipe isn’t intended for consumption. Rinse the scrub off with warm water and follow with a handmade, moisturizing lip balm from earlier in the chapter.
Tip: Mix up extra mint sugar when fresh mint is in season to use later in the year for both cosmetic and food use. Mint sugar is wonderful in tea, on toast and sprinkled on muffins!
Luscious Hair Care
Shiny, beautiful hair starts from the inside, with a healthy diet and lifestyle, and is further helped with regular trims and haircuts. In spite of our best efforts, though, daily exposure to blow dryers, flatirons, pool water and the sun can all play havoc on our locks.
Before you drop a lot of money into expensive products to repair and care for your hair, try some of these recipes made from easy-to-find, all-natural ingredients, such as honey, coconut oil and vinegar, coupled with beneficial herbs and flowers straight from your backyard.
If your hair is damaged and in need of an intense
repair, be sure to check out Hollyhock Split-End Crème, Nettle, Coconut & Honey Hair Mask or Sunflower Hot Oil Treatment. Dry, flaky scalps will benefit from the dandruff-busting thyme spray or a customized calendula and catnip hair rinse.
In this chapter, I’ll also show you how to make your own custom herbal shampoos that are just right for your hair type!
Hollyhock Split-End Crème
The only true way to get rid of existing split ends is by trimming them off; however, this crème can help smooth things out between haircuts. Argan oil is well known for its remarkable properties that nourish, strengthen, protect and add shine to hair, though it’s on the pricy side. If it’s not in your budget, try using coconut or olive oil instead. Hollyhocks were chosen for this recipe because they smooth and moisturize, but other good choices include sunflower and nettle. Aloe vera gel makes this crème lighter and easier to wash out, while vitamin-rich shea butter helps bind everything together in a wax-free way. It’s important to remember with this hair crème that you only need the tiniest bit to be effective!
YIELD: ALMOST FILLS A 2-OUNCE (60-ML) GLASS JAR
2 tbsp (30 ml) argan oil
1 tbsp (1 g) crumbled dried hollyhock leaves or flowers
1 tbsp (14 g) shea butter
1 tbsp (15 ml) aloe vera gel
2 to 3 drops of your favorite essential oil (optional)
Natural preservative (optional)
Infuse the argan oil with hollyhocks using one of the methods here. Strain the finished oil before proceeding with the recipe.
In a small jar or heatproof container, melt the shea butter by placing the jar or container in a small saucepan of hot water. Once melted, combine it with the hollyhock-infused oil.
Place the mixture in the refrigerator for around 30 minutes or until it starts to firm up. Using a fork, stir well. Add the aloe, then stir vigorously for about 2 minutes. The mixture will start to turn opaque and creamy. If you are adding essential oil or a natural preservative, do so at this time. Set the mixture aside for 5 minutes to thicken, then stir thoroughly once more with the fork. You should now have a thickened cream.
To use, dab a very small amount on your fingertips. Working with one section of hair at a time, lightly rub the crème into just the ends. Depending on your hair type, it will take the crème anywhere from 30 minutes to several hours to soak in, leaving the tips shiny and healthy looking. If they look greasy instead, that means you used a little too much, so go lighter next time.
If you don’t use a preservative, store the crème in a cool place and use within a few weeks.
Nettle, Coconut & Honey Hair Mask
This mask is superpowered with nettle for its ability to promote strong, shiny and healthy hair. Coconut oil is an excellent treatment for damaged hair, but if you’re allergic, try using babassu oil instead for a similar effect. Raw honey might sound like an odd (and sticky!) ingredient to put on your hair, but it helps to gently clean and moisturize hair, leaving it frizz free in the process.
YIELD: ABOUT 12 TO 24 APPLICATIONS, DEPENDING ON HAIR LENGTH AND CONDITION
¼ cup (3 g) dried nettle leaves
½ cup (100 g) unrefined coconut oil
Raw honey, as needed
Infuse the coconut oil with nettle, using the Quick Method here. Strain. The infused oil should be stored out of direct sunlight and heat in between uses. The shelf life is around 9 to 12 months.
Mix up small batches of this mask, as needed, using equal parts of nettle-infused coconut oil and raw honey. Try starting with 1 teaspoon of coconut oil and 1 teaspoon of honey. Stir together until blended. Use more or less depending on your hair length, texture and level of damage.
When you first get in the shower, wet your hair thoroughly with water. Apply the mask to the ends of the hair, avoiding the scalp unless it’s dry and flaky. Leave on for 5 to 10 minutes while you finish your shower. Shampoo the mask out and rinse well.
How often you use this mask is highly individualized. Some hair types may benefit from more frequent use, once or twice per week, while others may find the need to use it only once every month or two. Experiment to find the schedule that’s right for you.
Thyme Flaky Scalp Spray
An itchy, flaky scalp is more than a cosmetic nuisance; it can be downright uncomfortable to live with. Antifungal thyme is a top choice for cleansing the scalp and treating dandruff, while honey reduces flakes and helps retain moisture. Apple cider vinegar works to restore pH and leaves hair shinier and healthier looking. Use this spray after each shampoo and your scalp should show considerable improvement after a few weeks. If you don’t find relief by then, investigate further; you may be reacting to an ingredient in your shampoo or something in your diet.
YIELD: ½ CUP (120 ML)
¼ cup (1 g) chopped thyme, dry or fresh
½ cup (120 ml) apple cider vinegar
1 tsp raw honey
Place the thyme and apple cider vinegar in a half-pint (250-ml) canning jar. Set it aside for at least 2 to 3 days to infuse. Strain, then stir in the honey.
Pour the thyme vinegar and honey into a spray bottle.
To use, spray on your scalp after shampooing, lifting your hair as needed in order to saturate as much area as possible. Be careful not to spray into your eyes. If you inadvertently do, just rinse them thoroughly with water for several minutes. Massage the spray into your scalp for a short bit and then rinse out with water.
Variation: If thyme isn’t available, calendula, lavender, mint, rosemary and sage are other good antidandruff choices.
Sunflower Hot Oil Treatment
Instead of spending a lot of money on tiny packets of store-bought hot oil treatments, you can easily make your own at home. Sunflower petal extract is sometimes added to high-end hair care products for its ability to condition and add shine, making sunflowers a natural choice for us to use in this recipe as well. Jojoba is an outstanding oil added for its nourishing and hair-strengthening properties, but if it’s out of your price range or not available, try coconut, olive or sunflower oil instead.
YIELD: ½ CUP (120 ML)
½ cup (120 ml) jojoba oil
¼ cup (5 g) dried sunflower petals
Infuse the jojoba oil with sunflowers, using one of the methods here. Strain the finished oil and proceed with the recipe.
To use, pour a small amount of infused oil into a cup or jar. Set the cup down into a bowl of very hot (but not boiling) water for 5 minutes or until the oil is warmed. Massage the warm oil into your hair, starting with the tips. If you feel you need it, you can work the oil further up your hair. Unless your scalp is incredibly dry or flaky though, you may want to stop when you get a few inches away from your roots, to avoid excessive oiliness.
The amount you use will vary greatly depending on hair type and length, but a ballpark starting amount is ½ teaspoon of oil for short hair and 1 teaspoon for long hair. Leave on for 5 to 10 minutes, then shampoo out.
For a deeper treatment, apply the oil to your hair as directed above, then wrap it up in a towel. Leave the oil on for 30 minutes to 1 hour before shampooing out.
Infused oils, such as this sunflower hot oil treatment, have a shelf life of 9 to 12 months, when stored out of direct heat and sunlight.
Herbal Dry Shampoo
Dry shampoos are a great solution for those days that you wake up late or don’t have time to wash your hair. The key ingredient for this recipe is arrowroot powder or cornstarch, both of which help absorb excess oil. When used alone, they can leave a light layer of white powder behind, so I’ve created three recipes designed for light, medium and dark hair. Each dry shampoo formula includes one or more herbal powders for their scalp benefits or use as a subtle colorant. To make an herbal or floral powder, grind dried herbs or flowers in a coffee grinder, then sift them through a fine mesh sieve to yield a soft, silky powder. A general guideline is to grind around ¼ cup (60 ml) of dried herbs to yield roughly 1 tablespoon (4 g) of powder.
The light hair tones variation in
corporates powdered calendula flowers for their scalp-toning properties and to break up the stark white color of the arrowroot.
Cocoa powder adds a brown tint to the medium hair tones dry shampoo while powdered hibiscus (or red rose) flowers add a hint of red.
Dark hair types need the extra cocoa in the dark tones variation in order to help the dry shampoo blend into your hair color. I added nettle leaves, too, for their hair-strengthening benefits and darker color. As an alternative, try using ground rosemary instead.
YIELD: ½ CUP (65 G) DRY SHAMPOO
LIGHT HAIR TONES FORMULA
1 tbsp (4 g) powdered calendula flowers
½ cup (65 g) arrowroot powder
MEDIUM HAIR TONES FORMULA
3 tbsp (18 g) cocoa powder
2 tbsp (7 g) powdered hibiscus flowers or red rose petals
½ cup (65 g) arrowroot powder
DARK HAIR TONES FORMULA
2 tbsp (7 g) powdered nettle leaves
½ cup (65 g) arrowroot powder
5 tbsp (30 g) cocoa powder
Combine all of the ingredients in a bowl or jar. To use, sprinkle a small amount onto the crown of your head. Start out with just a bit, since you can always add more. Work the powder into your roots, using your fingers. Brush out with a hairbrush, until no sign of the shampoo is left.
Create Your Own Herbal Shampoo
This recipe features liquid castile soap, which can be found in most health stores. Combined with an herbal tea, a small amount of moisturizing oil and essential oils for scent, it makes an effective shampoo for many hair types. Because of the high alkalinity, this shampoo is not recommended for color-treated hair, as it may strip away dye. It has, however, been successfully used on henna-treated hair.
YIELD: 6 OUNCES (180 ML) SHAMPOO
