1 garlic clove, minced
⅓ cup olive oil, plus more for deep-frying
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 (10-ounce) bags of arugula, coarsely torn (about 12 cups)
Blend the Gorgonzola cheese in a food processor until smooth and creamy, scraping down the sides of the work bowl occasionally. Break the egg into a shallow dish and beat lightly to blend; put the bread crumbs in a second shallow dish. Using 1 rounded teaspoon of cheese for each, form the cheese into eighteen 1-inch balls. Working in batches, coat the balls with the beaten egg then with the bread crumbs. Arrange the balls on a small baking sheet. Cover and refrigerate until cold, at least 1 hour or overnight.
Whisk the lemon zest, lemon juice, and garlic in a medium bowl to blend. Gradually whisk in the ⅓ cup of oil. Season the dressing to taste with salt and pepper.
Heat 2 inches of oil in a small, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Working in batches, add the balls to the hot oil and fry just until golden brown, about 20 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the fried balls to paper towels to drain.
Toss the arugula in a large bowl with enough dressing to coat the leaves. Season the salad to taste with salt and pepper. Mound the salad on plates and top each serving with a few of the hot fried Gorgonzola balls. Serve immediately.
Spinach Salad with Citrus Vinaigrette
4 to 6 servings
When I make a salad I like to bring in lots of different textures and flavors. This one has citrus for zing, herbs for freshness, and nuts for crunch. The citrus vinaigrette cuts through the raw spinach flavor.
Citrus Vinaigrette
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
1 teaspoon grated orange zest
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed orange juice
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, chopped
1 teaspoon honey
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Spinach Salad
1 (10-ounce) bag of spinach (about 6 cups)
2 oranges, cut into segments (see Note)
½ cup sliced almonds, toasted (see note in recipe for Rotelli with Walnut Sauce)
½ red onion, thinly sliced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Parmesan Frico
Combine all the ingredients for the Citrus Vinaigrette in a jar or a tight-sealing plastic container. Shake to blend.
Combine the spinach, orange segments, almonds, red onion, salt, and pepper in a large bowl. Toss with the Citrus Vinaigrette. Serve on individual plates, topped with 1 or 2 Parmesan Frico.
Note: To cut orange segments, first use a small sharp knife to cut off the top and bottom of the orange. Stand the orange on one of the cut ends and make long, straight cuts to slice away all of the peel and white pith. Hold the peeled orange in your palm and cut on each side of the membranes to free the segments.
6 to 8 servings
The dressing is what makes this salad: it’s sooo delicious I use it to marinate chicken and fish, drizzle it on pasta salads, or even toss some with boiled new potatoes to make an Italian potato salad. When you make it, double or triple the quantity so you’ll always have it on hand to toss with your favorite foods.
⅓ cup lightly packed fresh basil leaves
⅓ cup white wine vinegar or freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon salt, plus more for seasoning
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for seasoning
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
8 cups arugula, torn into small pieces if large
4 cups bite-size pieces of radicchio (from one 10-ounce head)
1 carrot, peeled
1 hothouse (European) cucumber, peeled
Blend the basil, vinegar, 1 teaspoon of salt, and ½ teaspoon of pepper in a blender. With the machine running, gradually blend in the oil.
Place the arugula and radicchio in a wide, shallow bowl. Using a vegetable peeler, shave the carrot over the salad. Shave the cucumber into a medium bowl and pat the shavings with paper towels to absorb the excess moisture. Add the cucumbers to the salad.
Toss the salad with enough basil dressing to coat. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve.
Do-Ahead Tip
The vinaigrette and salad can be prepared one day ahead. Cover separately and refrigerate. Whisk or shake the dressing to blend before using.
4 to 6 servings
I make this salad most often in the winter and early spring months, when there aren’t a lot of vegetables in the market. The olives and cheese make it a bit more substantial than most green salads.
Sherry vinegar is the special ingredient in the versatile dressing. It’s Spain’s version of balsamic vinegar and it’s less acidic than other vinegars with a mellow, sweet-and-sour taste that is just perfect with more delicate greens.
Dressing
3 tablespoons sherry vinegar
1 large garlic clove
1 teaspoon dried oregano
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 (10-ounce) bag of mixed baby greens, rinsed and spun dry (about 6 cups)
1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and diced
½ cup pitted kalamata olives, halved
2 ounces feta cheese, coarsely crumbled
Blend the vinegar, garlic, oregano, salt, and pepper in a blender until the garlic is finely chopped. With the motor running, slowly blend in the oil.
Toss the baby greens, bell pepper, olives, and cheese in a salad bowl. Drizzle with the dressing and toss to coat.
Greens with Gorgonzola Dressing
4 to 6 servings
This is the Italian version of blue cheese dressing, and it’s just as rich and decadent as its American counterpart.
¼ cup creamy Gorgonzola cheese (about 2 ounces)
¼ cup milk
2 tablespoons sour cream
½ garlic clove, minced
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
10 ounces bibb, iceberg, or Romaine lettuce in bite-size pieces (about 6 cups)
Combine all the ingredients except the greens in a blender or a food processor. Pulse a few times to combine, then blend until smooth.
Place the greens in a salad bowl and pour the dressing over the greens. Toss to coat and serve immediately.
Asparagus with Vin Santo Vinaigrette
4 to 6 servings
Vin Santo is known as the Wine of Saints, and some of the very best is produced in northern Italy. It’s drunk mostly as a dessert wine (it’s perfect for dipping biscotti), but I also like to use it in vinaigrettes because of its smooth, sweet flavor. It brightens up the asparagus and makes this simple salad more luxurious.
1½ cups Vin Santo (about 375 milliliters)
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 bunch of asparagus, trimmed
6 Bibb lettuce leaves
1 hard-cooked egg, peeled and chopped
¼ cup chopped toasted almonds (see note in recipe for Rotelli with Walnut Sauce)
In a small saucepan, reduce the Vin Santo to ⅓ cup over medium heat, about 10 minutes. In a small jar or plastic container with a tight-fitting lid, combine the reduced Vin Santo, olive oil, lemon juice, mustard, salt, and pepper. Shake to combine, making sure the mustard is fully incorporated.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the asparagus and cook until just tender, about 3 minutes. Transfer the asparagus to a bowl filled with ice water and let it cool, about 3 minutes. Drain the asparagus and pat dry with paper towels.
Place the lettuce leaves in a serving bowl and a
rrange the asparagus on top. Top with the hard-cooked egg and chopped almonds. Drizzle the entire salad with the vinaigrette. Serve immediately.
Parmesan Popovers (left) and Anytime Vegetable Salad
4 to 6 servings
The perfect light, clean side salad to serve alongside a hearty pasta, this is my version of succotash. The different shades of yellow and green beans make it really pretty, too.
2 cups frozen edamame (soy beans), shelled
8 ounces thin green beans, trimmed
8 ounces yellow wax beans, trimmed
⅓ cup red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1½ cups halved cherry tomatoes
2 teaspoons chopped fresh basil or tarragon
2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves
Cook the edamame in a large pot of boiling water until crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Drain. Rinse under cold water, then drain well and pat dry. Repeat with the green beans and yellow beans. Leave the green and yellow beans whole or cut them crosswise into 1- to 1½-inch pieces.
Whisk the vinegar, salt, and pepper together in a large bowl. Gradually whisk in the oil. Add the beans, tomatoes, basil, and thyme, and toss to coat. Season the salad to taste with more salt and pepper, and serve.
4 to 6 servings
I make this as a side dish at least three times a week—that’s how much I love spinach, and how much I love it served this way. It’s easy, delicious, and great for you. The secret is the soy sauce; although it’s not Italian, it gives the spinach a fabulous salty kick.
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large red onion, sliced
2 garlic cloves, minced
¼ cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 tablespoon soy sauce
¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
¼ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 (10-ounce) bags of prewashed spinach (about 10 cups)
Zest of 1 lemon
Heat the oil in a very large pot over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until tender, about 8 minutes. Add the broth, soy sauce, red pepper flakes, salt, and pepper. Add one third of the spinach and cook until it begins to wilt, about 2 minutes. Continue adding the spinach one large handful at a time, sautéing just until it begins to wilt before adding more. Transfer the mixture to a bowl, sprinkle with lemon zest, and serve.
3:
soups and pasta salads
This chapter may be the best illustration of just how versatile pasta can be. A little bit of pasta—whether fun small shapes like ditalini or little stars or just broken bits of long-strand pasta like spaghetti or fettuccine—can turn a light vegetable soup into something more substantial and sustaining, making it a meal. Stuffed pastas like tortellini, which can feel a bit heavy when covered in a rich sauce, are magically transformed into a light, elegant starter when served in a flavorful broth. While the classic tortellini en brodo is a holiday tradition in many Italian families, mine included, don’t let that limit you. Any kind of stuffed pasta in the broth of your choice, may be supplemented with some fresh herbs or bits of vegetable and a grating of cheese, makes a super-quick and easy meal any time of the year.
When temperatures soar, few things are more welcome than a cooling pasta salad. So much more satisfying than a mixed green salad, pasta salads are also a good way to stretch more pricy ingredients like seafood to serve a crowd. Because most are served at room temperature or chilled, pasta salads are a great addition to an entertaining menu; just make them in advance and put them out with the main course. And because sturdy pasta shapes like penne, farfalle, or rotelli can stand up to robust flavors and ingredients better than delicate greens will, these salads are really rib-sticking; you may find that all you need to make these salads a meal is dessert!
Italian White Bean, Pancetta, and Tortellini Soup
Pasta e Ceci
Italian Vegetable Soup
Tuscan White Bean and Garlic Soup
Ribollita
Tuna, Green Bean, and Orzo Salad
Fusilli Salad with Seared Shrimp and Parsley Sauce
Neapolitan Calamari and Shrimp Salad
Mediterranean Salad
Antipasto Salad
Italian Chicken Salad in Lettuce Cups
Italian White Bean, Pancetta, and Tortellini Soup
4 to 6 servings
Use either fresh or frozen tortellini for this soup, a twist on the traditional tortellini en brodo that is a traditional Christmas dish all over northern Italy. White beans and the pancetta make this one very hearty and even more flavorful.
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 ounces pancetta, chopped
3 large shallots, chopped
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 (15-ounce) can cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
4 cups chopped Swiss chard (1 bunch)
6 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1 (9-ounce) package cheese tortellini, fresh or frozen
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
In a large, heavy soup pot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the pancetta, shallots, carrot, and garlic and cook until the pancetta is crisp, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the beans, Swiss chard, and broth.
Bring the soup to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Add the tortellini and cook 5 minutes for fresh, 8 minutes for frozen, or until just tender. Season with pepper and serve.
4 to 6 servings
If you like pasta e fagioli, you’ll love this rib-sticking soup that substitutes garbanzo beans for the usual cannellinis and adds some tomatoes for color and flavor. It happens to be my Aunt Raffy’s favorite soup.
4 fresh thyme sprigs
1 large fresh rosemary sprig
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 cup chopped onion (1 medium onion)
3 ounces pancetta, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
6 cups low-sodium chicken broth
2 (14.5-ounce) cans garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed
1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes, with juice
¾ cup ditalini (thimble-shaped pasta)
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
⅓ cup freshly grated Parmesan, for garnish
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Wrap the thyme, rosemary, and bay leaf in a piece of cheesecloth and secure with kitchen twine to make a sachet. Heat the olive oil and butter in a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, pancetta, and garlic and sauté until the onion is tender, about 3 minutes. Add the broth, beans, tomatoes, and herb sachet. Cover and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then decrease the heat to medium and simmer until the vegetables are very tender, about 10 minutes. Discard the sachet.
Transfer 1 cup of the bean mixture to a blender and reserve. Add the ditalini to the soup pot, cover, and bring the liquid back to a boil. Boil gently until the pasta is tender but still firm to the bite, about 8 minutes. Purée the reserved bean mixture until smooth, then stir the purée into the boiling soup. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Ladle the soup into bowls. Sprinkle each serving with some Parmesan and drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil.
Grating Cheeses
A sprinkling of freshly grated cheese is the finishing touch for many soups as well as pasta dishes, adding a sharp and salty accent. A mellow aged Parmesan is the go-to cheese for most of us, but it’s one of many hard cheeses that are suitable for grating, each of which contributes a different dimension to the finished dish. These are the three I use most often; all three melt beautifully without becoming runny or rubbery.
Asiago: Thi
s aged cow’s-milk cheese is made in the Veneto region of Italy and is sold in both a soft, young version and an aged, hard version, which is the one you want for grating. It’s aged for a minimum of nine months, and it has a sharp flavor very similar to an aged Cheddar. It’s not as buttery as Parmesan, but it can be substituted for it in many recipes, depending on how sharp and robust you like your cheesy topping. I especially like it on hearty dishes with a meat or mushroom sauce.
Parmigiano-Reggiano: Considered the finest variety of Parmesan cheese, Parmigiano-Reggiano is a cow’s-milk cheese that is aged for up to two years, and its flavor is most pronounced when the cheese is grated. It’s slightly salty and fruity with a grainy, brittle texture that is even a bit crunchy; its subtle flavor won’t overpower delicate pastas and light cream sauces. Parmigiano-Reggiano is a staple in my fridge, and I use it to enhance the flavor of just about everything, including eggs, veggies, breads, and much more. Authentic Parmigiano-Reggiano is imported from Italy and, although it is pricier than other imported and domestic Parmesans, it is well worth it. Look for the stamp on the rind to make sure you’re getting the real thing.
Pecorino: Unlike Parmesan, Pecorino is a sheep’s-milk cheese (in fact, pecorino means “sheep” in Italian). Again, you’re looking for the aged hard cheese, not the soft creamy one. Pecorino is aged, but not as long as Parmesan. It has a salty, tangy flavor and it melts beautifully on pasta and sauces. It is a little more assertive than Parmesan and can be substituted for it in many recipes if you want a sharper kick.
6 servings
You can make this kind of soup anytime, using any kind of pasta you like. Small shapes and short noodles are the obvious choices, but my parents often added spaghetti or fettuccine, broken into small pieces so we could still eat it with a spoon. The fettuccine looks a little more elegant, but if all you have on hand is spaghetti, that’s fine; the soup will have a more rustic, homey look.
Everyday Pasta Page 3
