Even the easiest dog to train will need some repetition to figure out exactly what behavior you are rewarding when you first teach the DOWN. Ari stood back up a couple of times during his first lesson, so I just repeated the steps. One lesson is never enough, so we kept working at the technique. You’ll need to do this with your dog, too, until you’re certain he’s made the association between following the DOWN command correctly and all being right with the world.
After practicing for a while with the leashes on and seeing your dog master the technique while he’s restricted, it’ll be time to try this without leads. Rather than attempting to command a DOWN to a dog who’s running loose and may not obey, start this changeover session just like you’ve been doing, with your dog secured to an anchor leash and a guide leash. After a few successful tries, quietly unclip the guide leash. If that goes well, then unclip the anchor leash, too.
This doesn’t always go so well right away. In Ari’s case, as soon as he figured out he was off-leash, he went straight for the treat instead of lying down to get it. And that’s exactly the reason I always emphasize conditioning in training. It wasn’t a failure—it was simply a sign that Ari wasn’t ready, so he went back on the leashes and we went through a few more practice runs before trying again. Conditioning is the difference between a trained dog and a well-trained dog, so much so that even a big, willful adolescent like Ari can learn a totally reliable DOWN with a few days of consistent practice. Over and over, I conditioned his DOWN with the leashes on. And then one day when I removed them, his muscle memory was so polished that Ari didn’t even have to think about the command. He dropped to the ground in a split second every time he heard it.
Small-Dog Technique
When it comes to training small dogs, we have to play by an entirely different set of rules because small dogs don’t respond to the Double Leash Lock-Off the same way medium and large dogs do. Small dogs can be very tricky when learning the DOWN command because, believe it or not, even though they don’t have that far to go to the ground, little guys usually put up more of a struggle against getting there than the big ones do. Large dogs tend to respond to leash resistance better than small dogs, so for this technique we are not going to use a leash at all. Without it, we need some other form of control. At the ranch, I use a pedestal. Since you may not have a training pedestal lying around—and since this technique works best if your dog is in a comfy spot anyway—you can use your couch or an easy chair as a substitute. The technique is very simple when we break it down.
Step 1. Place your dog on the edge of the couch. Make sure he doesn’t jump off. If he does, put him right back up as many times as it takes until he’s stable and staying put. The best way to keep your dog in place is by focusing his attention on a treat in your hand.
Use a treat to help focus your dog’s attention.
Step 2. Take the treat and hold it about six inches away from your dog’s snout. Now slowly lower it below the edge of the couch while giving the command DOWN. Naturally, your dog will watch the treat, following it down. Now here’s the secret: You’re only going to lower the treat about four inches below the edge of the couch, just enough so your dog’s head will be hanging over the edge to follow. He can see it, but he can’t take it in his mouth until his position changes or you move the treat—and you are not going to move it. From there, continue to say the word DOWN. It might take a little while, but your dog will eventually relax and lie down while still looking at the treat. If your dog is stubborn about this, put a little pressure on his shoulders to give him a hint where to go. The second your dog hits that DOWN position, calmly reward him with the treat and praise, telling him, “Good DOWN.”
Lower the treat below the edge of the chair while giving the command DOWN.
When your dog hits the DOWN position, reward him with the treat and praise.
Step 3. Now this next part is very important. When they are down, most dogs will give you only a few seconds before they pop back up. You cannot let your dog do this from the DOWN position while you’re training this command because a successful DOWN means your dog both assumes the position and stays put. It is vital you keep your dog where he is, so continue to “pay” your dog while he’s in the DOWN position, petting him slowly and firmly from his head down the length of his back. This allows you to accomplish two things: giving your dog praise and keeping him in the DOWN with a firm stroke that guards against him trying to stand. If you feel your dog trying to push back up, that stroke you’re giving him suddenly becomes a block for his movement. You’ll need to use a little bit of pressure in this move. As soon as your dog settles again, continue to reward him with food and affection. Your goal is to keep your dog down for a long period of time—all the while rewarding him—because the longer he is down and the more he is rewarded, the better the DOWN will stick in his memory when you ask him to do it again.
This is an easy technique to teach. Here’s why: Most small dogs naturally want to lie down on a soft surface, choosing the couch or bed over something like a tile or wood floor. Larger dogs often don’t care as much, and you may notice they like lying on hard surfaces just fine. But ask yourself how often you’ve seen your small dog taking a nap on the wood floor. It’s probably a rare event. For this reason, teaching the DOWN on a soft couch or chair is an efficient way to dovetail with your dog’s natural inclinations. Trying to teach a small dog to lie down on a hard surface only makes more work for both of you. After a week of conditioning this command on the couch, your dog will most likely obey the DOWN anywhere you ask him. If he gives you any resistance, move back to the couch and gradually transition to other surfaces again.
The Grab-and-Slide Technique
This one is for the stubborn dogs of all shapes and sizes. The grab-and-slide technique is exactly what it sounds like, but it’s all about where you grab and what slides. It’s quick and simple:
Step 1. Place a bowl of treats next to you on your right side and sit down beside your dog either on the floor or on a raised surface like a couch or large chair. This puts you level with your dog and makes it easier to execute the technique.
Step 2. With your dog sitting to your left on the couch or floor, put your left arm around him and secure his collar with your left hand. Then extend your right hand, crook your elbow at a ninety-degree angle, and hook your forearm behind your dog’s front legs, just under and behind the elbow joints.
Sit beside your dog and secure his collar with your left hand.
Step 3. Now say the word DOWN while slowly sliding your right hand toward you until your forearm is free. Your motion will gently slide your dog’s front legs forward as you do this. Be sure to hold on to that collar the entire time. When your hand comes all the way free, your dog will be lying down on the surface of the couch.
Hook your forearm behind his front legs.
Say the word DOWN while slowly sliding your right hand toward you until your forearm is free. Be sure to hold on to your dog’s collar the entire time.
Step 4. The second your dog reaches this position, grab a few treats from the bowl and reward him for being DOWN. From there, follow the instructions in Step 3 of the small-dog technique above to help your dog learn that the DOWN means both getting low and staying there.
As soon as your dog is DOWN, treat and reward him.
Training Tips to Remember
Stick to It. Just like when you’re teaching any command, remember that it’s up to you to follow through. This command, in particular, is one that relies on you giving the instruction and then outwaiting your dog until he gives in and does what you’ve asked. It can be frustrating and time-consuming at first, but I’ve never met a dog who can’t learn the DOWN. I have, though, met owners who give up too soon, basically teaching the dog the opposite of what they intended—that the animal can outwait the person and bend him or her to his will. Needless to say, that’s the beginning of a problem that can get much bigger than mastery of any single command. Stick to it, stay patient, and
you’ll be fine.
Stand Tall While Training Your Big Dog. Many people train the DOWN command from a kneeling position because it’s easier for them to lower a treat to the floor that way. Keep in mind that you want to posture your body in a more normal (standing) position as soon as you can. If you continuously train the command on your knees, your dog will get used to that, and when you give the same command from standing, your dog may be thrown off by the change. So it’s okay to start out kneeling to teach this command, but start inching back up to your normal position right away when your dog starts to grasp it. After a few days you should be standing all the way up while telling him DOWN.
Don’t Back Away. Another common mistake people make when training a big dog the DOWN command with this technique is backing up when they first unclip the dog from the anchor leash. Many dogs will naturally start creeping forward when off the leash, and some people naturally back up when this happens. Don’t back up. By doing so, you teach your dog to creep forward, which eventually leads to a bad habit of doing it every time. Simply give the command and stand still. Standing your ground will help ensure your dog will be ready and able to follow the command when he really needs it.
Use It or Lose It. This is the cardinal rule of training. If you don’t condition your dog daily, he won’t get good at the command. Always remember to lock in that muscle memory for your dog. Do several sessions a day for a week, and you’ll be happy. Do it several times a day for months and you’ll be blown away.
Variation
Starting from SIT. Most dogs can learn the DOWN command just fine from a standing position, but if your dog resists lying down in favor of going after the treat, try starting him out in the SIT position instead. For the majority of dogs, teaching a SIT is the logical first step in obedience training anyway—and the quickest way to ensure you get to the finish line of all 7 Common Commands in the shortest amount of time. Use the SIT command from Chapter 4 to help a dog who’s struggling to go from standing to DOWN. Some dogs find it easier to stretch out from sitting, and they respond better to this slight change in technique.
Welcome to the World of Self-Control
Ari learned the DOWN command—but he learned something even more important at the same time. He learned some self-control. He was able, with the help of the Double Leash Lock-Off, to focus long enough to find out that he could earn rewards. And along the way he discovered, without ever hearing a raised voice and definitely without seeing a raised hand, that he couldn’t win what he initially perceived as a game of will. Once he saw he couldn’t win it—that cooperating was the way to get what he wanted—he decided it wasn’t worth playing at all. Ari had undergone a very important attitude adjustment: he went from being a delinquent to being a student. After that, he was ready to learn more.
Your dog’s case may not be as dire as Ari’s was. Most of them aren’t. But being able to trust that your dog’s well-trained DOWN command will get a consistent response every time will give you an invaluable tool to keep him under control and safe anywhere and anytime.
Outtake
A few years back, I was training a service dog named Apollo—you might remember the story I told in Chapter 3 about our first meeting. One of the most important commands any service dog has to learn is the DOWN, mainly because service dogs go everywhere with their handlers and often have to lie next to them for long periods of time. When Apollo was learning this command, I would have him lie still for about thirty minutes at a time. After a while he got so good at it that I could put him in a DOWN by my feet while I watched TV, and he would not budge the entire time.
It was all going great until my student began to outsmart me. Apollo knew that when I put him in a DOWN, he was not to stand until I gave the command to do so. But his young, curious mind was always wandering, and if he heard something in the next room, naturally he would want to go check it out. He knew he couldn’t just stand up and walk away, but he didn’t let that stop him. I can’t tell you how many times I looked down and discovered that the dog who was supposed to be at my feet was gone. Each time I’d go looking and find him in another room. This was happening every day, and I was racking my brain trying to figure it out. It’s not like we’re talking about a Yorkie here. I was sure I would notice—that anyone would notice—if a 120-pound Doberman stood up and walked out of the room.
I started paying closer attention to figure out how this great big dog was getting around the house, and I soon found out. Apollo was following my orders and staying in his DOWN, but while he was in it, he was crawling all over the house. I watched him slowly, silently crawl away and navigate from room to room. This was a dog who had learned his DOWN a little too well, so well that he figured he could go exploring on the technicality of crawling instead of walking. Even though what he was doing was wrong, I let it slide because I laughed so hard, and because it would never be a problem for the new handler who’d always have him on-leash in public.
I still think back to those moments with Apollo and smile at how he could be both so obedient and so smart. I knew then that he was ready for his new handler. It’s times like that that make my job worth every minute I put into it.
6
STAY
I’ve heard countless testimonials from clients over the years about how the STAY command may have saved their dogs’ lives. Many of these stories are about dogs who were in the yard or some other place off-leash, and then suddenly took off toward the street. The STAY command kept them in place—at or before the curb—and out of danger. Hearing stories like that from the owners of dogs I’ve trained makes my day, and knowing a command is saving lives raises my commitment to teaching it to as many dogs as possible.
This command can be a lifesaver, and so it’s worth every minute you spend teaching it and any overtime you need to put in to ensure your dog really, truly knows what STAY means. If you take your dog anywhere off-leash, this is doubly important. It has been a critical skill for many of my rescued dogs, including a sweet boxer-bulldog mix who had a very important job waiting for her once she learned to reliably respond.
Courtesy of Litton Syndications, Inc.
Meet Darby. When I met Darby, it was love at first sight. This eight-month-old boxer-bulldog mix was so sweet she tried to fit her head through the bars of her kennel to kiss me when I walked up. She had the gorgeous shiny brown coat of a boxer and the smushed-in snout of a bulldog. And the second I stepped inside, she crawled up on my lap as if she were a tiny Maltese and not a fifty-pound mix of two much bigger breeds.
Darby had a Zen demeanor, which is rare for a puppy, and especially rare for an energetic breed like a boxer. These dogs are known for being big jumpers, big chewers, and animated puppies. Calm is about the last thing you can expect from them. But Darby was different—like an old soul—and I could see right away that she had the foundation to be the special kind of dog who helps people. Within five minutes of meeting this girl, I had a good idea where she was meant to be.
A couple of weeks earlier, I’d received an e-mail from a teacher in Simi Valley who was looking for a dog. Her husband had recently passed away, and her only child was about to go off to college. It tugged at my heart to read how lonely her house was about to become. Then she threw me a curveball. She said she’d like a dog who could help kids in a program at her school. The program uses therapy dogs to assist kids who struggle with reading. Many of these students find it easier to read to dogs—who listen without ever judging—than to more intimidating human partners. When I heard this request, I was ready to make it my mission to find the perfect dog for this woman who was so committed to giving back to her students and community.
When I saw Darby in the shelter, I knew she was a great candidate to be both a companion and a help in the classroom. But training any dog to become a therapy dog is no easy task. These dogs need to have perfect manners—sometimes even better than the people they’re helping. I quickly discovered that Darby had very few. She went 2-for-7 when I tested her on the
Common Commands. Despite her lack of prior training, though, everything about this dog told me she could not only learn but completely master any skill with patient and consistent training.
One of the most important things to teach any therapy dog is the STAY command. A dog with a solid STAY is a well-mannered dog, but a therapy dog might have to be able to STAY for periods of an hour or even more. This was a tall order for an eight-month-old puppy, but I was confident Darby could do it.
Teaching the STAY
There are several methods I rely on to teach the STAY, depending on how each dog learns. My favorite of these, though, is a method called the cornered STAY. It’s an effective technique with a unique logic behind it. I can’t be sure I’m the first to ever execute this technique, but I can tell you that I came up with it through years of experimenting and learning, and I’ve never seen it used by another trainer. After you teach this technique to your dog, your days of worrying whether she might bolt into the street will be a thing of the past. Let’s get to work.
The Cornered STAY
The only tools you’ll need for this technique:
•A six-foot leash
•A bag of treats your dog loves
•An ideal location. Location is the key to this method so choose carefully. You’re going to need an enclosed yard, empty lot, or some other large area with a wide-open space and a blocked or walled ninety-degree-angle corner. A yard with a fence is ideal because it offers a workable space with the fence creating right angles. A corner in a room of a house works, too, but make sure there’s a clear space around the dog and no clutter.
Lucky Dog Lessons Page 9
