by Jen Benson
Aside from its busy cities and large-scale industry, England’s central belt is also home to some of the most accessible, enjoyable outdoor adventure spots in the country. The Peak District, Britain’s first National Park, is filled with high moors and technical trails for all kinds of outdoor adventures. There’s also superb swimming and kayaking on the River Wye in Herefordshire and tough mountain bike challenges in the Malvern Hills.
The Peak District
The Peak District National Park is split naturally into two halves – the Dark Peak to the north and the White Peak to the south. In contrast to the highly accessible White Peak’s round, green limestone hills, dry valleys, runnable trails and craggy outcrops, the Dark Peak lies on millstone grit, with higher plateaus, wetter ground and wild moorland. It’s hard to come to the Peak District and not feel moved to go adventuring: the White Peak has seemingly endless trails to run as well as an abundance of long-distance footpaths, and its clear rivers are perfect for kayaking and swimming. The landscape of the Dark Peak includes the long, stepped, gritstone edges for which the area is famous, particularly with rock climbers. Fell-running races are also an important annual event for most villages in the Peak District, with the young and old showing up of a weekend to battle with the hills. The Peak District is highly accessible, the Hope Valley railway passing right through, a direct link from Manchester and Sheffield.
The Midlands & the Welsh Borders
The Midlands is a place of great contrasts – and great adventures. Running roughly along the 177-mile (285km) Offa’s Dyke Path, the border between England and Wales takes in tumbling rapids and wide, deep stretches of the river Wye running past the atmospheric ruins of Tintern Abbey, together with the Black Mountains with their accessible climbs leading to airy and expansive vistas. The Shropshire Hills’ varied landscape of rolling farmland, woods and river valleys is rich in wildlife and geology and ingrained with heritage. Further north lies the Dee Valley and the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct, the centre of a World Heritage Site. Sherwood Forest and the picturesque, yet underexplored, Lincolnshire Wolds lie to the east.
1 Ride the Monsal Trail
The Monsal Trail is a former railway line converted into a multi-user path by cycling charity Sustrans and opened to the public in 2011. The trail begins at the former railway station in the pretty town of Bakewell, and runs 8½ miles (13.7km) along the valley to Topley Pike near Buxton. It’s a perfect introductory ride for those just finding their wheels, as well as for families and anyone simply wanting a relaxed but fascinating ride surrounded by dramatic limestone scenery, through railway tunnels and across the much-photographed Headstone Viaduct. These features, alongside the towering crags at Chee Dale and the beautiful, rolling White Peak landscape of Monsal Dale, make it one of the most varied and spectacular leisure rides in the country. Bike hire is available at Monsal Trail Cycle Hire based at the Hassop station café, and at Blackwell Mill at the Buxton end of the trail. The café at Hassop station is a nice stop for a post-ride refuel, or you can ride over the bridleway to Bakewell (take the first left through a gate when heading from Hassop station towards Great Longstone) and get a picnic from the deli or sample an original Bakewell pudding.
If you’re after more technical riding, there are several excellent mountain bike loops that take in sections of the Monsal Trail, or for a longer ride, or a multi-day one, you can link with the Pennine Bridleway, Tissington Trail or the High Peak Trail.
Challenge level:
Start: Bakewell station (disused), DE45 1BU
Finish: Topley Pike, Buxton, SK17 9TE
Distance: 8½ miles/13.7km
Map: OS Explorer OL24
Local Highlights
Don’t miss the annual Alpkit Big Shakeout, a weekend celebration of all things outdoors and adventure based next to the Monsal Trail at Thornbridge Hall, Great Longstone.
Sample the local Thornbridge ales at the Packhorse Inn, Little Longstone, or at the brewery itself in Bakewell.
Visit Raven Tor in Miller’s Dale, just off the Monsal Trail, a dramatic overhanging limestone crag that’s home to some of the country’s toughest rock-climbing routes.
2 Explore Thor’s Cave
Thor’s Cave, also known as Thyrsis’s Cave, is a natural cavern located in the Manifold Valley, in the Staffordshire region of the White Peak. An ancient site of human habitation and burial, it’s a popular spot for walkers and rock climbers. From the valley floor, the steep limestone crag soars upwards, with the gaping mouth of the cave visible, its opening at a height of around 260 feet (80m). Access to the cave is via a stepped path – about 200 steps in total – from the Manifold Way, but it is well worth the climb to explore its vast interior, striped with the colours of the different minerals, and the views out onto the valley below.
To find Thor’s Cave, from the centre of Wetton village take the small road leading towards Wetton Mill and the Manifold Valley. As you leave the village, take the farm track to the left, signed to Thor’s Cave. Alternatively, follow the Manifold Way as it runs along the river Manifold from Waterhouses all the way to the cave – and look out for kingfishers along the river.
Challenge level:
Location: Thor’s Cave, SK 098550
Start/finish: Wetton village, Staffordshire,
DE6 2AF
OS grid ref: SK 109555
Distance: 6 miles/10km circular walk from Wetton
Map: OS Explorer OL24
Local Highlights
Camp at Smithyfields Camping (www.smithyfieldscamping.com), just 100 yards (90m) from the excellent village pub, the George, and a few minutes from Wetton and Manifold villages.
Take a ride along the 13-mile (21km) Tissington Trail or the 9-mile (14.5km) Manifold Valley Cycle Trail, both of which are a short ride from the campsite, as well as being traffic-free. Bike hire is available from Brown End Farm Cycle Hire or from Manifold Valley Cycle Centre.
Visit nearby Ilam Park estate and Dovedale, and jump the stepping stones across the river Dove.
3 Run the Nine Edges
Edale Mountain Rescue Team, one of the busiest in the UK, covers the whole of the Peak District; the service is staffed entirely by volunteers and is run on charitable donations. Each September, the team organises a fundraising challenge: the Nine Edges Endurance. The event starts at Fairholmes, near Ladybower Reservoir, and traverses the 20 or so miles (32km) across the nine famous gritstone edges of Derwent, Stanage, Burbage North, Burbage South, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardom’s and Birchens, finishing at the Robin Hood Inn near Baslow. Your entry fee also buys you a pint at the pub. In the official event competitors have the option of running, walking or climbing (walkers and runners largely follow the same route, but climbers climb a route of their choice on each of the nine edges), with the fastest runners finishing in well under three hours. It is, however, a fantastic anytime adventure too, with the simple aim of ticking off all nine of the edges in a day. The route is obvious for most of its length, following go good paths along the tops of edges, though yo you will need to navigate some sections, and there are some boggy, unclear parts along the way. It is also possible to mountain bike the nine edges, although in many parts the route differs from the on-foot route.
Challenge level:
Start: Fairholmes
OOS grid ref: SK 173894
Finish: Robin Hood Inn, Chesterfield Rd,
Baslow, Bakewell, DE45 1PQ
Distance: 20 miles/32km
Maps: OS Explorer OL1 and OL24
Local Highlights
This part of the Peak District is famous for its gritstone bouldering – climbing without ropes on the lower rock formations. One of the best beginner-friendly bouldering venues is Burbage South, a sunny spread of easily accessed and friendly boulders below Burbage Edge.
The shop and café in Hathersage is an institution in the outdoor world. Stock up on adventure guidebooks and refuel with a traditional Derbyshire oatcake.
Local expert and running guide David Taylor of
fers guided runs and courses in the area (fellrunningguide.co.uk).
4 Scramble Crowden Clough
This classic Grade I scramble from the heart of the Hope Valley right up to very near the Peak District’s highest point – Kinder Scout at 2,087 feet (636m) – makes for a great adventure, with several descent options. The best place to begin is at Edale station, joining the Pennine Way and following it east. At Upper Booth, turn right through a small gate, leaving the Pennine Way and following Crowden Brook. The upward route follows the brook the whole way, making this section very easy to navigate. Starting along a peaceful stretch through woodland, you’ll soon find yourself in glorious Dark Peak countryside, walking along drystone-walled fields with the high fells rising on all sides. Further on, the trail becomes narrow and winding, criss-crossing the brook on rocky stepping stones, with always a good path to follow once you find it. As you ascend, the gradient steepens and large boulders provide some interesting but easy scrambling should you wish. After heavy rain there’s plenty of water in the brook, enough for some pools that are deep enough for a dip in places. Rounding the final corner, the main scramble rears above, steep but manageable by most in the dry, but very slippery and tricky when the brook is in full flow. Any sections you don’t fancy attempting can be bypassed using the trail on the left. Listen out for stonechats clinking from the rocks and for the distinctive call of curlews, and watch peregrines and buzzards wheeling overhead.
Once you reach the summit on the Kinder Plateau, either scramble back down the way you came or turn left, following the top of the plateau west until you reach the Pennine Way – turn left on this and follow the classic descent of Jacob’s Ladder back to Edale. Alternatively, turn right at the top of Crowden Clough and follow paths east to Grindsbrook Clough, an enjoyable and easier scramble in its own right that also provides an interesting descent taking you straight down into Edale.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Edale station, Edale,
Hope Valley, S33 7ZP
Distance: 7 miles/11.3km
Map: OS Explorer OL1
Local Highlights
If you’re confident in your navigation, try finding the true summit of Kinder Scout at 2,087 feet (636m) above sea level. It’s northeast of the trig point at Kinder Low across trackless, boggy peat and marked only by a clump of grass near to a small pile of stones – but beware in poor visibility: many walkers find themselves lost and disorientated here. The National Trust has been working hard to restore the grassland on the plateau and the dams are fascinating to see.
5 Ride around Ladybower
One of the classic Peak District mountain biking routes, this excellent, varied ride takes in a full loop of Ladybower Reservoir. It’s a red- (medium-) graded ride, so you’ll need to be a confident rider, but there’s nothing too scary or technical out there. The route begins with a tough but enjoyable climb up and over Whinstone Lee Tor – the views from the top and the exhilarating descent more than make up for the effort involved in getting there. It finishes as it begins – in fine style – with a fantastic descent through woodland from Lockerbrook back down to Ladybower. At around 15 miles (24km), depending slightly on route choice, it’s an awesome adventure, but even if you need to push it still won’t take you all day.
The route: exiting Fairholmes car park, turn right at the roundabout and follow the path past the dam. Turn left onto a bridleway signed Footpath Derwent Edge. Continue straight on, climbing over Whinstone Lee Tor and sticking to the bridleway as it runs parallel to the A6013, descending to, and then following, the eastern shore of the reservoir, and taking to the cycleway along the main road.
Cross the reservoir at the dam and follow the Derwent Valley Heritage Way to Thornhill, turning right here and then right again in Aston where it is signed Win Hill and Hope Cross. As the road ends, continue on a bridleway north-west, passing Wooler Knoll and Hope Cross.
Cross straight over the main road and climb up through woodland before following the first obvious track down an exciting descent back to Fairholmes.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Fairholmes car park, S33 OAQ
Distance: 15 miles/24km
Map: OS Explorer OL1
Local Highlights
From the northernmost point of the reservoir follow the road north (park at Fairholmes as above), over a packhorse bridge to reach Slippery Stones at grid ref SK168950, a wonderful plunge pool, perfect for lazy summer afternoon adventures.
Climb the shapely, steep-sided Win Hill (1,519 feet/463m) just south of the reservoir for fantastic panoramic Peak District views.
6 Kayak the Wye 100
From Hay-on-Wye downstream to its meeting with the Severn Estuary at Chepstow, there has been a public right of navigation on the river Wye since the passing of an Act of Parliament in the late 17th century. By happy coincidence, this truly incredible stretch of river that runs along the Welsh borders through forest, rolling hills, towns and villages is 100 miles (161km) long: perfect for an adventure challenge. Depending on your preference, experience and time available, you can split the journey into distances you’re happy paddling in one go, or across the days you have available. This is an area with such a wealth of history, wildlife and culture that even if you spend two weeks inching your way down the river you’ll have plenty to discover at each stop along the way. There are plenty of places to stay, although much of the river bank is privately owned, so plan your stops carefully in advance. Please note that the final miles to Chepstow are tidal, and tides will have a big impact on paddling.
If you’re not an experienced paddler, we’d advise either finishing your journey at Bigsweir Bridge near Llandogo (NP25 4TS) or going in the company of someone who knows the river.
If you don’t fancy taking on the challenge alone, several companies run organised trips, with transport and accommodation included. included Wye Canoes (www.wyecanoes.com), approved by British Canoeing, run a four-day trip with experienced guides and well-chosen stopovers, or there’s hire available from Wye Valley Canoes (www.wyevalleycanoes.co.uk), where you’ll also find the River Café and accommodation.
If you have never navigated the Wye, you have seen nothing
William Gilpin, 1782
Challenge level:
Start: Glasbury, HR3 5NP
Finish: Chepstow, NP16 5EZ
Distance: 100 miles/161km
Maps: OS Explorer OL13, OL14, 189 and 201
Local Highlights
Visit spectacular Symonds Yat for rock climbing, rapids and peregrine falcon watching.
Camp at the Old Station campsite at Tintern, a simple, peaceful site and a perfect base for exploring the Wye Valley.
7 Malvern Hills end to end
Formed from some of the most ancient rocks in England – around 680 million years old – the Malvern Hills run north–south for about 8 miles (13km) in between Great Malvern and the pretty village of Colwall. Looking east from the top of the ridge there are views across the flat lands of the river Severn valley, with the Cotswolds beyond. In wonderful contrast, to the west are the rolling hills of Herefordshire giving way to the Brecon Beacons. The highest point of the hills is Worcestershire Beacon at 1,395 feet (425m), but the most interestingly shaped is the Herefordshire Beacon, where the Iron Age hillfort known as the British Camp is clearly visible. The hills are famous for their natural mineral springs and wells, which led to the development of Great Malvern as a spa town in the early 19th century. They are also famous for being the birthplace of composer Edward Elgar, who found inspiration for many of his works here.
The full traverse of the Malverns, from End Hill in the north to Chase End Hill in the south, is a great day out – though we’d suggest walking it over two days, or stepping up to the challenge of a there-and-back if you’re running. From the summits of the two end hills the distance is around 9 miles (14.5km), ticking off all 15 major summits en route, but, depending on your transport options, you’ll need to add at least a mile at
each end. Taking cars is a logistical challenge, but possible – there’s parking at North Hill car park, just north of the start, and at Hollybush, just north of the finish. It’s doable by train too, although this adds a few miles or a taxi ride – Malvern Link is the closest station to the start and Ledbury is closest to the finish, or there’s a YHA and camping at Hollybush if you want to make a weekend of it. CAUTION: there are several main road crossings on the route.
Challenge level:
Start: End Hill
OS grid ref: SO 767469
Finish: Chase End Hill
OS grid ref: SO 761354
Distance: 9 miles/14.5km
Map: OS Explorer 190
Local Highlights
Visit St Anne’s Well – its water considered to have healing powers over the centuries – and refuel at the quirky St Anne’s Well Café.
Recently reinvented after a long absence, the legendary Malvern Hills mountain bike festival is held at Eastnor Castle in June.
8 The Long Mynd day out
The Shropshire Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) covers over 300 square miles (800 sq km) of south-west Shropshire, with a stretch along the Welsh borders. Within easy reach of many of the Midlands’ towns and cities, it’s a great place to escape to – and if you venture away from the more popular areas you’ll find some properly wild and remote places, such as the aptly named Wild Moor. When we visited Long Mynd (meaning ‘long mountain’), a dramatic, steep-edged plateau that runs 7 miles (11km) through the Shropshire Hills, we were seeking out the best adventure to include here; but we encountered a problem – there were just too many to choose from! This is a place that’s designed for adventures – there’s glorious, deep, permitted reservoir swimming at Carding Mill; there’s Minton Batch, one of the best sections of mountain bike singletrack in the country; there are the views of Snowdonia from the summit of Brown Clee Hill which, at 1,790 feet (546m), is also the highest point in Shropshire; there’s stunning Carding Mill Valley and the Bronze Age Bodbury Ring; and there’s the long, beautiful section of trail that follows the Shropshire Way the full length of the Mynd. Best of all, you don’t need a car, as Church Stretton railway station deposits you right in the centre of the action.
