by Jen Benson
Challenge level:
Start/finish: access at south-eastern corner of Grasmere
OS grid ref: NY 342059
Distance: 2 miles/3.2km
Map: OS Explorer OL7
Local Highlights
Walk through Rydal village, passing Rydal Mount, former home of William Wordsworth, to find the waterfalls and inviting pools at Rydal Bower.
Camp either at YHA Grasmere, an ideal spot from which to explore the surrounding fells and Sourmilk Ghyll, or at Tarn Foot Farm on the edge of Loughrigg Tarn.
Grasmere has a great selection of cafés and ice-cream sellers, enabling you to refuel after your adventure, as well as a couple of good outdoor shops.
Swim the Lakes, based in Ambleside, offers guided swims, courses, holidays and a well-stocked shop (www.swimthelakes.co.uk).
6 Scramble Long Crag
Long Crag is an awe-inspiring, sheer rocky buttress that rises up from just above the village of Coniston at the entrance to the Coppermines Valley. It’s a classic Grade I scramble – the rock is grippy and the moves are engaging; however it is also a steep crag in a very elevated and exposed position, so you’ll need a good head for heights. Good walking boots or fell shoes are fine for the ascent, but sticky rubber-soled rock shoes would make it even more enjoyable (though you’ll still need walking boots for the walk-in/out), and we’d advise against attempting it in wet or winter conditions unless you have the specific skills and equipment to do so. There’s no single correct line up the crag, so if you find you are wandering into tricky territory at any point, traverse until you reach easier ground. You’ll find there’s a great choice of lines up the rock, with something to entertain every level of scrambler. The finish of the scramble leaves you part-way up Wetherlam; from here you have a choice: you can head left into the valley and follow the path back down to the start, link in with other scrambles in the Coppermines Valley, or head out over the fell tops. A particularly good route traverses the Prison Band across to the Old Man of Coniston.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: entrance to Coppermines Valley, Coniston
OS grid ref: SD 299979
Distance: ¾ mile/1km from Coniston centre to top of Long Crag
Map: OS Explorer OL6
Local Highlights
Camp at the National Trust’s Hoathwaite campsite, right on the shores of Coniston Water, LA21 8AX. Launch your own boat from the campsite, or hire one from the Coniston Boating Centre, a not-for-profit organisation owned by the Lake District National Park, with all profits going to local conservation (www.conistonboatingcentre.co.uk).
Sample a local ale at the Sun Inn, Coniston, Donald Campbell’s HQ during his final attempt at the world water speed record.
7 Paddle Windermere
Windermere has a bit of a reputation for being busy, and thanks to its accessibility it is, in places. But don’t let this put you off; venture to the lake’s quieter shores and it’s as peaceful a place as you could wish to find. At 11 miles long by a mile across, Windermere is the largest natural lake in England, its ribbon shape a glacial trough, formed some 13,000 years ago. It’s deep too – up to 66 m in places – and a rich wildlife habitat, with large populations of fish, waterbirds and migrating geese in the winter. The paddle begins at Fell Foot, a brilliant place for adventures in its own right. Owned by the National Trust, it has something for everyone, from activities and watersports for families to a weekly parkrun. Regular buses run from Windermere railway station to Fell Foot.
As well as offering the excellent Challenge of completing an 11-mile (17.7km) paddle on its waters, Windermere also earns its place in this book through being one of the lakes included in British Canoeing’s Three Lakes Challenge. The other two are Llyn Tegid (Bala Lake) in Wales (7 miles/11km) and Loch Awe in Scotland (25 miles/40km), the aim being to paddle all three. We’re not keen on recommending adventures with elements located in different areas, requiring large amounts of driving to get between them; in this case, however, each lake is located in a place with much adventure potential, so how about spreading the challenge over three separate trips, exploring each area while you’re there?
Challenge level:
Start: Fell Foot Newby Bridge, Windermere,
Cumbria, LA12 8NN
OS grid ref: SD 380867
Finish: Waterhead
OS grid ref: NY 376032
Distance 11 miles/17.7km
Map: OS Explorer OL7
Local Highlights
Ride the North Face mountain bike trail, a 10-mile/16km red-graded route in Grizedale Forest.
Camp – or glamp – at the National Trust Low Wray campsite, right on the peaceful western shores of Windermere. Kayak hire is available here.
Refuel with ethically sourced food and beers brewed on-site at the Drunken Duck, Barngates, LA22 ONG.
8 The Langdale Pikes
No mountain profile arrests and excites the attention more than that of the Langdale Pikes and no mountain group better illustrates the dramatic appeal of a sudden rising of the vertical from the horizontal.
Alfred Wainwright
Basing ourselves at the National Trust campsite right in the heart of the mountains, we’ve had the pleasure of spending many weeks exploring the Great Langdale valley, and yet every time we arrive after a period of absence we’re amazed by the view. Following the winding road alongside the wide, flat, grassy valley floor, the sudden appearance of the combined jagged, vertical towers of the Pikes against the dark backdrop of Bowfell and Crinkle Crags is just awe-inspiring.
The Langdale Pikes loop is a classic walk, and rightly so. The navigation is straightforward in good visibility and the walking isn’t overly technical, but takes you to some airy peaks with magnificent views of the surrounding fells. The following directions are merely a guide; plan your route on the relevant map and take it – and good navigation skills – with you. This route is particularly tricky to navigate in poor visibility and shouldn’t be attempted in winter conditions without specialist equipment and skills.
The route: from the National Trust car park, follow the path up to the left and behind the Sticklebarn pub, continuing to follow it straight ahead as it ascends steeply alongside Stickle Ghyll. Reaching Stickle Tarn at the top, turn right and skirt the tarn, bearing right at its north-east corner and following the path due north to ascend the eastern flank of Pavey Ark. From the summit, head WNW to Thunacar Knott and then SW across Harrison Combe to Pike of Stickle. Descend Pike of Stickle by the same path and then ascend Loft Crag. From the summit, head NE to Harrison Stickle, taking in the summit of Thorn Crag and the head of Dungeon Ghyll as you go. From Harrison Stickle descend to the southern shore of Stickle Tarn before returning back down Stickle Ghyll to the start.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: National Trust
Sticklebarn car park, LA22 9JU
OS grid ref: NY294063
Distance: 5½ miles/9km
Map: OS Explorer OL6
Local Highlights
Look out for juniper trees – one of only three species of conifer native to Britain – which flourish here. The National Trust is currently running a juniper planting programme.
The Sticklebarn pub leads a weekly guided running group, very helpful if you’re looking for some great trails in the area.
Relax with a real ale at the Old Dungeon Ghyll pub, a classic favourite with walkers and climbers.
9 Swim at Gaddings Dam
England’s highest beach is at Gaddings Dam an earth embankment dam located on top of the moors between Todmorden and Walsden. Constructed in 1833 to supply water to the mills of Lumbutts, the reservoir fell into disuse when the mills began to use steam power. It was rescued by a determined group of locals who bought the dam, repaired it, and now continue to maintain it (please consider supporting their efforts with an online donation at www.gaddingsdam.org). It’s an incredible, wild place to swim, with vast skies stretching over the quiet water.
To
add to the adventure, there is no road access to the dam – it’s reachable only by a rough footpath across the moors. There’s a station at Todmorden, and it’s an excellent 45-minute walk or 20-minute run from here to the dam. If you’re running we’d advise taking in a longer loop, exploring the fantastic trails around the area before finishing with a refreshing swim at Gaddings. Parking can be a real issue, particularly at busy times. On quieter days you may be able to park on Lumbutts Road, but on busier days this won’t be possible and a there’s strictly no parking at the Shepherd’s Rest car park unless you’re using the pub. Be aware that there’s no lifeguard cover here and that the nearest road is some distance away.
Challenge level:
Location: Gaddings Dam, OL14 6JJ (nearest
postcode)
OS grid ref: SD 949224
Map: OS Explorer OL21
Local Highlights
Climb to the 1,312-foot (400m) summit of Stoodley Pike, topped with the 121-foot-high (37m) Stoodley Pike Monument, built in 1856 after its predecessor was destroyed by lightning. You can climb the 39 steps to the top for fine views out over the surrounding moorland (access is free).
Stay at Height Gate Farm, a 17th-century former farmhouse that sleeps groups of up to 30 in self-catering accommodation (www.heightgate.org.uk).
Refuel at the Stubbing Wharf pub, right by the canal in pretty Hebden Bridge.
10 The Stanza Stones Trail
The Stanza Stones Trail runs for 47 miles (76km) across the wild South Pennine countryside from Marsden to Ilkley, passing through Hebden Bridge and Bingley along the way. It starts and finishes at railway stations, with several others en route, and there are a number of campsites along the way too, making it a perfect route for a long weekend in the hills.
The trail is an inspiring tale of community, literature, art and a love for the great outdoors. In 2010 Ilkley Literature Festival commissioned well-known local poet Simon Armitage to create a series of poems responding to the landscape of the Pennine watershed, and letter-carver Pip Hall and her apprentice Wayne Hart to carve Simon’s poems in six atmospheric locations along the watershed. At each end of the trail, on Pule Hill and Ilkley Moor, local drystone waller Nick Ferguson created a poetry seat where you can sit and admire the view or even write your own poem. The project also involved young people from local communities, some of whom had never been on the moors before. Armitage says of the project: ‘as well as being landmarks in their own right, I hope the Stanza Stones act as beacons of inspiration, encouraging people to engage with West Yorkshire and Lancashire’s great outdoors in thought, word and deed.’
Challenge level:
Start: Marsden railway station, near
Huddersfield, HD7 6AX
Finish: Ilkley railway station, LS29 8HF
Distance: 47 miles/76km
Maps: OS Explorer OL21, 288, 297
Local Highlights
Climb to the top of nearby Otley Chevin to take in the surprise views and enjoy the trails through the forest park.
Visit the Cow and Calf rocks, also known as Hangingstone Rocks, high on Ilkley Moor – and don’t forget your hat.
11 Ride the Mary Towneley Loop
The South Pennines is well known for its great-quality cycling, and there’s an annual Walk and Ride Festival each September. The area boasts the country’s longest continuous uphill road climb out of Cragg Vale towards Littleborough – definitely one to try when you visit.
The Mary Towneley Loop, named after Lady Mary Towneley, a strong supporter of public access to the Pennines, is a 47-mile (76km) bridleway loop through Rossendale, Calderdale and Rochdale that takes in part of the Pennine Bridleway National Trail. It’s well waymarked and takes in a variety of surfaces, including grass tracks, stone setts and causeways causeways, aggregate paths and some quiet roads. Throughout the loop there are user-friendly gates, as well as pegasus crossings at main roads and clear signposting. The route is hilly and steep in places and takes you out into some remote places where shops are few and far between, so it’s a great challenge in self-reliance too. Hebden Bridge, with its shops, cafés, accommodation and railway station, is a great place to start and finish the ride, but you can of course access it from any point on the circuit. There’s an organised Mary Towneley Loop challenge each September, raising money for the Rossendale and Pendle Mountain Rescue Team.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: A646 south-west of Hebden
Bridge, OL14 6ED
OS grid ref: SD 969262
Distance: 47 miles/76km
Map: OS Explorer OL21
Local Highlights
Gisburn Forest has an outstanding mountain biking trail centre, with a route to suit everyone (www.gisburnbiketrails.com/). The Pennine Bridleway in its entirety is a great multi-day bikepacking challenge, running 205 miles (330km) between Cumbria and Derbyshire and specifically designed to be explored by horse or mountain bike.
12 Isaac’s Tea Trail
Once described as ‘England’s last great undiscovered wilderness trek’, this challenging, waymarked 36-mile (58km) loop around the North Pennines takes in high moorland and river valleys, with over 4,900 feet (1,500m) of ascent. It begins in Allendale Town and visits the East Allen River, Carrshield Moor, Nenthead, River Nent, Alston, Blagill and the South Tyne River, returning over Ouston Fell. A great single- or two-day challenge at a run, it is traditionally walked over four days. The trail is named after local Victorian tea seller and philanthropist Isaac Holden, a familiar figure in his day walking the rough tracks over Allendale Common and Alston Moor. The route starts at Isaac’s Well in Allendale and passes a number of Methodist chapels and other places associated with the Holden family. The moors and hay meadows are abuzz with wildlife – keep an eye out for lapwings, red squirrels and harebells as you go. Isaac’s old hearse house near St Mark’s Church in Ninebanks has been refurbished and now serves as a daytime walkers’ shelter and information point for trail walkers.
Challenge level: up to if done in one go
Start/finish: Isaac’s Well, Allendale,
Northumberland, NE47 9BJ
OS grid ref: NY 838558
Distance: 36 miles/60km
Maps: OS Explorer OL31 and OL43
Local Highlights
Watch the stars scattered across the vast Northumberland skies at Herding Hill Farm (herdinghillfarm.co.uk), where you can choose from bell tents, tipis, wigwams or lodges – or bring your own tent.
The Sill near Hexham is the UK’s National Landscape Discovery Centre. It’s packed with inspiration and education and you’ll come away looking at the world around you differently. Café and accommodation on site (www.thesill.org.uk).
13 Geltsdale and the Gelt Boulder
Situated in a grassy meadow surrounded by trees, this lovely fine-grained quartzite boulder has something of an international reputation, having once been accidentally included in a guidebook on European climbing.
The Gelt Boulder can be found at the edge of the river Gelt about 7 miles (11km) southeast of Brampton. It’s about 20 feet (6m) high with steep, sometimes slightly overhanging climbing and a perfect, cushioned, grassy landing. A short walk downstream brings you to an excellent swimming pool below a waterfall in the clean water of the Gelt, where you can enjoy a post-climb dip or a day’s playing with the family. The valley itself is magical and makes for a perfect day’s exploring – or head up to Talkin Fell for spectacular views out across the Pennine landscape and a wander around the long line of cairns that adorns the summit.
Challenge level: varies
Location: east of Castle Carrock, CA8 9NF
OS grid ref: NY 557555
Map: OS Explorer 315
Local Highlights
Take a trip to the nearby village of Brampton, built from the local red sandstone and nestled in a glacial hollow. To the east of the village is a motte – the site of a medieval castle and beacon, now topped with a monument. The long, tree-lined ridge that stretches north-e
ast from here is a wonderful walk or run.
Refuel at the excellent Blacksmiths Arms pub on the green in Talkin, just north of the Gelt Boulder.
14 Bike Bowderdale Beck
The Howgills lie east of the Lakes and are a great place to head for a quieter day on the hills. The trails here very much follow the rolling undulations of the fells, alternating between tough uphill slogs and long, glorious downhill stretches.
The classic Howgills mountain bike route, graded a black route and therefore best for more experienced riders, starts with a long, tough climb from Sedbergh up to the Calf, which, at 2,218 feet (676m), is the summit of the Howgills. From here there’s a fantastic long descent – 4 miles (6.4km) – down into Bowderdale. There are gates aplenty along the way, and expect some sections of pushing/carrying unless you’re super-fit. This ride is made MUCH tougher by poor weather, in particular high winds, and is at its best after a long, dry spell.
The route: from the centre of Sedbergh head north on Howgill Lane. At Lockbank Farm turn right onto the bridleway and follow this, bearing north, all the way to the Calf. From here enjoy 4 miles (6.4km) of singletrack into Bowderdale, following lanes through Bowderdale village. Just before the A685 turn right on tracks and minor roads through Weasdale to Ravenstonedale. Follow the lane south until it becomes a track at Adamthwaite, then continue south, joining and following the bridleway along the river Rawthey to return to Sedbergh.
