social services in, 412–14, 418–19, 422, 426, 427
sports competitions in, 413
street library in, 422
Theatro Municipal in, 422–23
update, 425–28
UPP (Unidade de Polícia Pacificadora) in, 410–14, 418, 420–21, 422, 425–26
World Cup in, 407, 410, 418, 422
“Ríu Ríu Chíu” (song), 6
Rockefeller, David, 329
Rodchenko, Aleksandr, 50
Line, 52
Roden Crater, Arizona, 287
Rodrigues da Silva, Robson, 413–14
Roiter, Andrei, 15
Rolpai, Dorje, 381
Romania, 435–42
Brâncuşi’s Endless Column in, 287
depression in, 435, 436–39
Dorohoi (home of author’s ancestors), 436, 438–39
gay rights in, 437, 440–42
language of, 441
Roma (Gypsy) settlements in, 436, 440, 441
social liberalization in, 441
travel in, 6–7, 25
Romanian National Radio, 437
Ronald Feldman Fine Arts, New York, 50
Roque, Atila, 427
Rossouw, David, 169–70
Ross Sea, 385, 388–89, 392
royal albatross, 394
Rohingya people, 458–62, 464, 468, 480–81
Rus, Andrei, 441–42
Ruskin, John, 24
Russ, Rodney, 386, 388–90, 392–94
Russia, 29, 71–102
from 1917 to 1991, see USSR
businessmen in, 83–86
and capitalism, 74, 83–84, 95–96
censorship in, 57–58, 97, 98, 175
changing politics in, 89–96, 102
constitution of, 92, 94, 97
corruption in, 100–101
despair in, 247
drug use in, 73
economy of, 101–2
emerging social classes in, 71–72, 90
expats in US, 177–79
gay life in, 35, 58, 71, 80–82, 98–99
ideology in, 82, 91, 93
Imperial Porcelain from, 30
interpretation of democracy in, 91–93
organized crime in, 71, 73–74, 77, 79, 81, 86–89, 100
magazines in, 77–78, 98
Orthodox Church in, 72, 82–83, 99–100
parties and nightclubs in, 73–74, 98
popular music in, 78–80, 97, 98
rave scene in, 72–74
sanctions against, 101
social scene in, 72–77
spirit vs. bureaucracy in, 61
tusovkis (social circles) in, 72–73, 75, 77, 87
update, 97–102
Russian Patriotic movement, 94
Russian Revolution (1917), 62
Russia Without Us (zine), 98
Rutskoi, Alexander, 178
Ruzicka, Marla, 27, 281, 285
Rwanda, 305–20
Avega (widows’ organization) in, 308, 310
as Belgian colony, 305–6
genocide in, 305–7
HIV/AIDS in, 307, 308, 310–12, 313, 315
independence (1962), 306
internal politics in, 306
les enfants de mauvais souvenir in, 307–19
post-genocide years in, 310
propaganda in, 37
Radio Mille Collines in, 306
update, 319–20
women raped in, 305, 306–19
Saffron Revolution (2007), Myanmar, 444, 447, 449, 452, 462, 472
St John, Ronald Bruce, 348
Sakharov, Andrei, 93
Sakharov Center Moscow, Forbidden Art exhibit, 57
Salakhova, Aydan, 85
Samim, Farouq, 38–39, 282, 283–84
Samuels, Sammy, 447, 467
Sandi (Balinese man), 402–3
San Pe, Robert, 457
San San Oo, 467
Santia (Balinese man), 401–2, 404
Santyar, Achmed Shekib, “Epitaph,” 275
São Paulo, Brazil, 409, 410, 420
Sarandon, Susan, 361
Saudi Arabia:
assassination plot in, 341, 348
capital punishment for gays in, 35
Sbeta, Abdulmonem M., 344
Scher, Lucy, 43, 489
Scher, Oliver, 43, 489
Schönfeldt, Joachim, 146
Schröder, Gerhard, 348
Schwarcz, Lilia Moritz, 409
Scott, Robert Falcon, 393
Scott Island, 392
scuba diving, 484–92
sea level, rising, 303, 396
seasonal affective disorder (SAD), 250
Sebidi, Helen, 159
Seck, Stephen, 153
Sediqi, Ismail, 273
Sekete, Paul, 174
Selepe, Sydney, 152, 153
Senegal, 261–68
immigrants to US, 268
Lebou beliefs and culture in, 268
mental health services in, 267–68
n’deup ritual in, 262–67, 268
Senoussi, Abdallah, 326
September 11 terrorist attacks, 38, 269, 339, 347, 453
Seuss, Dr. (pseud. Theodore Geisel), 301
sexual identity, 33–36
Shackleton, Sir Ernest, 385–86, 388
Shakespeare, William, 385, 490
Henry VIII, 37
Shakila, Zamzama, 276–77
Shalgham, Abdurrahman, 335, 345, 352
Shanghai, food in, 162–64, 360
Shaoxing, China, food in, 364–65
Shembe Church, South Africa, 175
Shenzong, emperor of China, 186, 200
Shia Yan, 191, 209–10
Shih, J. J., 207
Shih Shou-chien, 182
shoebill (elusive bird), 223
Shwe Mann, 455, 457, 458
Sichuan opera, 367
Sichuan province, food in, 365–67
sign language, 397–405
Sihlali, Durant, 145, 154–55, 159
Silence Number Nine (TV), 75
Silverstein, Mindy, 483, 485
Siopis, Penny, 149, 163
Siwedi, Linos, 158–59
Skotnes, Cecil, 152
Skotnes, Pippa, 150
Smith, Judith, 192
Snares islands, 386
Snowden, Edward, 102
Soares, Luiz Eduardo, 410, 412, 421
Sobchak, Anatoly, Foundation, 97
socialization, grooming in, 234
Solntsevskaya Bratva, 100
Solomon, Andrew:
adventurousness of, 484, 492
alone at sea, 488–92
Anglophilia of, 2–5, 10
depression of, 211, 261–62, 263, 439
dual citizenship of, 16
emotions of, 43–44, 483–84
first family trip abroad, 5
forebears of, 26, 435–36, 438–39, 441
scuba diving, 484–92
speaking in Romania, 437, 440–42
wedding of John Habich and, 34
Solomon, Blaine, 42, 489, 490
Solomon, George, 42–43, 485, 486, 489, 490, 492
Solomon, John Habich:
in China, 359
and discrimination against gays, 36
scuba diving, 484, 485, 489, 490, 491–92
in Solomon Islands, 294
wedding of Andrew Solomon and, 34
Solomon Islands, 293–303, 484
Circumcision Island, 302
coral atolls, 300
discrimination against gays in, 36
Hauta, 295–98
island-hopping, 298–301
Lake Tegano, 301–2
languages in, 294
Makira Island, 294–98
Malaita people in, 294
Marovo Lagoon, 300–301, 302
Polynesia life in, 301–2
provincial capital relocated, 302–3
rainforest in, 295
Uepi, 301
update, 3
02–3
Song dynasty, 181, 185, 187, 193, 199, 201, 203, 379
Song Shuangsong, 104–5, 109, 113–14, 130, 134
Songzhuang, China, 136, 138–39
Sotheby’s (auction house):
commercialism of, 54–55
first sale of Soviet art by, 45, 49–56
Soviet tour sponsored by, 49, 51, 52
South Africa, 141–76
absurd theater of symbolic respect, 163–64
affirmative action in, 151, 161–62
apartheid art centers in, 151–52, 154
apartheid categories in, 156
art appreciation, no tradition of, 161
art competitions in, 159
art dialogue in, 155–56
art schools in, 152–53
basket weaving in, 160–61
black people invisible in, 142–43, 145–46, 160, 161, 175
black-white mutual influence in, 173–75
censorship in, 175–76
colored (mixed race) people in, 156–57
commercial galleries in, 158–59, 172, 175
conflicting priorities in, 143–49, 153–54, 155, 175–76
cultural boycott (1980s) in, 148–49
elections in, 455
end of apartheid in, 29, 141, 148, 162
in the hinterlands, 161, 164–73
Hottentots, 145
National Arts Initiative (NAI), 143, 162–64
“necklacing” in, 409
politics in, 162–64, 174
public stoning ordered in, 175
sangomas (witch doctors), 153, 166, 173
shebeens in, 163
townships in, 151–57
transitional art in, 153
travel in, 19–20
Tributaries exhibition in, 171
update, 175–76
and Venice Biennale, 159–60, 176
white art collectors in, 157–58
white-directed programs for blacks in, 160–62
white liberal artists in, 148–51
Xhosa beadwork, 144–45
South Seas fantasies, 293
Soviet art:
Actions (happenings), 46–49, 52, 55, 57
avant-garde, 46–51, 53, 55, 56–58
contemporary, 49–58
hidden meanings in, 12, 54, 55, 56, 103, 272
influence of, 108
The Irony Tower (Solomon), 14–15, 45
market for, 45–58
self-reference in, 56
Sotheby’s first sale of, 45, 49–56
update, 56–58
Western discovery of, 49–50, 135
Soviet Union, see USSR
Soweto, South Africa, travel in, 19–20
Spain, money laundering in, 100
Speedy Bag Factory, Johannesburg, 145–47, 149
spirt (grain alcohol), 17
Spratt, Captain, 215
Sri Lanka, 459
Stalin, Joseph, 14, 17, 28, 54, 60, 118, 178, 230, 246
Stankevich, Sergei B., 90, 92–95, 97
Stars group, China, 108, 109, 110, 123
Stepanova, Varvara, 50
Stevens, Christopher, 356
Stewart, Lucas, 447, 463
storytelling, 24, 30–33, 258, 261
Stravinsky, Igor, 423
Styazhkin, Denis, 58
Suara Putra (Balinese man), 402
Suarayasa (Balinese teenager), 400, 402
Sudarma (Balinese man), 403
Sugimoto, Hiroshi, 289
Suharto, 449
Sukesti, Cening, 402, 403–4
Su Shi:
Ode to the Red Cliff, 200
Poems Written at Hangzhou on the Cold-Food Festival, 200–201
Suu Kyi, see Aung San Suu Kyi
Suzhou gardens, 378, 379
Suzman, Helen, 162
Sviblova, Olga, 65, 86, 97
Swehli, Ahmed, 337, 344
Syria, 319, 336, 346
atrocities against homosexuals in, 34
chaos in, 29
refugees from, 39
Taipei Fine Arts Museum, 206, 208, 210
Taiwan, 181–204
American Institute in, 195, 207
autonomous art for, 198–99
calligraphy in, 199–203
Chinese art moved to (1949), 183, 185, 188, 198
Chinese heritage in, 209
contemporary art scene in, 205–10
economy of, 198
elections in, 455
ethnic tensions in, 197–98
identity crisis of, 183, 197, 198, 204, 206, 207–9
and mainland China, 184, 185, 195, 196–98, 205, 206
massacres (February 28, 1948), 208
as model for democracy, 185
nationalism in, 208
nativist Taiwanese styles, 205
New Paradise (artist-run space) in, 208
Palace Museum, see National Palace Museum
politics in, 191–94, 195, 202, 205, 206–7, 208–9, 210
and protectionism, 16, 184
protests of Met exhibit, 182, 183, 190–97, 202
public protests continuing in, 203–4
and reunification, 202–4, 206
self-definition in, 206
Sunflower Movement in, 204
US relations with, 185, 196, 197
White Shirt Army, 203
Tales of a Korean Grandmother (Carpenter), 4
Taliban, 28, 38, 270–75, 278, 279–80, 347, 460, 461
Tambovskaya Prestupnaya Grupirovka, 100
Tan, Fiona, 291
Tang dynasty, 187, 193
Tang Hsiao-li, 190
Tang Jianying, 139
Tatlin, Vladimir, 289
Monument to the Third International, 75
Tchenogramme (pseud.), 207
Tennyson, Alfred, Lord, 16
Teresa, Mother, 127
terrorism, effects of, 38–39
Teshima Island, 291
Thant Myint-U, 447, 450, 459, 463, 469, 470
Thant Thaw Kaung, 456, 471
Thaton, reclining Buddha at, 466
Thein Sein, 448, 454, 455, 481
Thurber, James, 223
Thyssen-Bornemisza, Baron Hans Heinrich von, 50
Tiananmen Square, 122, 138, 374
Tiananmen Square massacre (1989), 26, 109, 110, 121–22, 137
post-’89 influence of, 111, 112, 113, 115, 119, 122
Tibet, Buddhists in, 459
Tierney, Dominic, 283–84
Timin, Rose (great-aunt), 435–36, 439, 441
Tin Win Win (Ju), 471
Titomir, Bogdan, 79
Tolstoy, Leo, 96
Toscanini, Arturo, 422–23
tourism:
disaster tourism, 385
travel vs., 17, 23
Transparency International, 343
Travel + Leisure, 32, 219, 237, 287, 293, 359, 385, 407, 443
travel:
with children, 42–43
and death, 44
decontextualized essence in, 20–23
engagement and reciprocity in, 18–19
expectations in, 20, 22
legacy of, 43
new perspectives gained in, 25–26
observation vs. engagement in, 17–18, 23
political importance of, 25–28
and storytelling, 24
time stopped in, 16
tourism vs., 17, 23
Tremlett, David, 289
Troitsky, Artyom, 64–65, 79, 96, 97
Trudeau, Justin, 41
Trump, Donald, 39, 127
Tsaatan (Mongolian shamanists), 245–46
Tsinghua University, Cultural Heritage Conservation Center, 384
Tsong Pu, 208
Tsu Ming, 207
Tunisia, and Arab Spring, 448
Tun Win Aung, 475
Tupelo Workshops, Johannesburg, 152
Turkey, sailing adventure in, 211–17
Turkina, Olesya, 78
Tur
rell, James, 287, 290, 291
Tuyisenge, Clémence, 315
Twombly, Cy, 289
Udaltsov, Sergei, 102
Ufan, Lee, 291
Uganda, homosexuality a capital offense in, 35
Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia, 33–34, 237, 238, 244, 246, 247
UNESCO, 281, 282, 300
Intangible Cultural Heritage List, 247, 370
World Heritage Sites, 247, 301–2
UNICEF, 449
United Arab Emirates, 343–44
United Nations (UN):
and Brazil, 418, 419
Convention against Torture, 335
on extrajudicial executions, 409
and human rights, 480
on LGBT issues, 34
and Libya, 340–41, 346, 357
and Myanmar, 480
and Rwanda, 306
and South Africa, 148
and Taiwan, 207
UN-HABITAT, 419
Urani, André, Rio: The Turning Point, 415
Urbach, Erika, 4
Urodov, Andrey, 98
USSR, 45–58
art of, see Soviet art
bureaucracy of, 61
Communist system in, 89, 91–92, 93, 94
elusiveness in, 54
end of Soviet Union, 448
glasnost in, 30, 45, 50, 65, 126, 448
Gorbachev resignation in, 59–60; see also Gorbachev, Mikhail
gulag in, 66
ideology in, 95
invasion of Afghanistan by, 6, 11, 272, 275, 460
irony in, 14, 54, 61, 65
KGB in, 12, 54, 63, 99
Komsomol in, 91
people’s resistance (1991) in, 13, 61–69
perestroika in, 49, 90, 93
and revolution (1917), 30
Stalin years in, 14, 54
two camps in, 141
underground rock musicians, 64–65
Utopia (zine), 98
Uwamahoro, Christine, 317–19
U Win Htein, 481
van Graan, Mike, 143, 162
Venda, South Africa, 164–73
Venice Biennale, 149, 159–60, 176
Versace, Gianni, 382
Vickers, Sveta, 74–75
Vietnam, travel to, 22
Vietnam War, 2, 22–23, 468
Vinogradov, Garik, 76, 77, 97
Virginia (Xhosa bead worker), 144–45
Vittrup Christensen, Erik, 419
Voina (Russian “art-anarch-punk gang”), 57
Volkov, Sergei, 80, 86
Vorotnikov, Oleg, 57
Wah Nu, 475
Waihuru, John, 295
Wandering Jew, legend of, 2
Wang Guangyi, 112
Wang Jiaqi, 133–34
Wang Jinsong, 111
Wang Luyan, 113
Wang Peng, 137
Wang Yin, 128
Wang Zang, 138–39
Warhol, Andy, 148
war on terror, 322, 325, 348
Waste Land (film), 424
Watt, James C. Y., 191–92
Waugh, Evelyn, 214
Western art:
aggressiveness of, 128
Chinese emulation of, 108, 109
Chinese exhibitions of, 125–31
Chinese influence on, 381
commercial expectations of, 13, 55, 56, 112
contemporary, 108, 127
forward focus of, 202
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