SURVIVING PARADISE
SURVIVING PARADISE
One Year on a Disappearing Island
by
Peter Rudiak-Gould
New York / London
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© 2009 by Peter Rudiak-Gould
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To my parents
“The very name of the Pacifc is a misnomer.”
PAUL THEROUX, THE HAPPY ISLES OF OCEANIA
Contents
A Note from the Author
Prologue
CHAPTER 1:
Moon Landing
CHAPTER 2:
A Beautiful Prison
CHAPTER 3:
The Marshall Islands on One Dollar a Day
CHAPTER 4:
A Tropical Paradox
CHAPTER 5:
Learning to Speak Again
CHAPTER 6:
Underwater Coralhead Cinderblock Soccer Wrestling
CHAPTER 7:
No Student Left Behind
CHAPTER 8:
The Scent of New Things
CHAPTER 9:
Gone Sailing
CHAPTER 10:
It Takes a Village to Break a Spirit
CHAPTER 11:
A Vacation from Paradise
CHAPTER 12:
Confessions of a Spearfsherman
CHAPTER 13:
From Island to Mainland
CHAPTER 14:
On the Waterfront
CHAPTER 15:
Liberation Days
CHAPTER 16:
Getting Past Customs
CHAPTER 17:
To Bring to an End
CHAPTER 18:
Another Shore
EPILOGUE:
Fallen Palms
Acknowledgments
A Note from the Author
IF THE MARSHALL ISLANDS TRIGGER ANY ASSOCIATION AT ALL, IT IS typically something tragic: World War II battleground, American nuclear testing site, imminent casualty of global warming.
I will tell you about all of these things, but I will also give you the other story: life after the Japanese military occupation, life away from atomic tests obliterating entire islets, life before the waters rise. This is not a tale of pitiful oppressed natives. It is my portrait of one Marshall Island at the turn of the twenty-first century, and how it felt to live alone in this alien culture on a remote speck of land at a rather tender age—how it was just like a rocky first romance, complete with infatuation and disillusionment. And if these low-lying islands are indeed doomed—if I spent my year there in the country’s twilight—then all the more reason to write about the place now.
The events and people in this story are real except for tiny liberties taken for their privacy. A few local people did embarrassing things while I was there. I’ve left those episodes out. But the embarrassing things that I did—well, those I’ve left in, because even a year on a disappearing island can be funny.
Prologue
I STARTED EASY. I SHOWED MY EIGHTH GRADERS A MAP OF THE WORLD and asked them to point to their own country, the Pacific archipelago known as the Marshall Islands.
They couldn’t. Blank stares from black eyes.
This was understandable. A year ago I couldn’t have pointed to the Marshall Islands. Perhaps the children had been thrown off by the Americentrism of the map, which cut the supposedly empty Pacific in two. This left the Marshalls as a smattering of dots on a desolate edge, which, come to think of it, was a fairly accurate representation.
I began again with an easier question. I asked them to point to the United States of America. Surely they could find this country, which had brought these islands everything from Christianity to Spam to H-bombs to incompetent English teachers like me. America was central to the map. It was a huge orange shape, not a mosquito swarm of specks, and it was labeled, conveniently, “United States of America.”
They couldn’t find it. A sea of bored, chocolate-colored faces.
I continued my inept lesson. I gave each student a sheet of smudged, crinkled paper I had rescued from the dank insides of a dilapidated desk. On each paper was a little exam, which I had copied seventy times by hand because the ditto machine had no ink and photocopying was out of the question in a school with no electricity. I handed out pencils, which had numbered in the single digits before my arrival. Then I waited for the students to sharpen their No. 2s on rocks, because there were no pencil sharpeners. I kicked out the half-dozen toddlers who had wandered in to gawk at the white man, closed the wooden windows from which three young truants were hurling incomprehensible native questions at me, and reprimanded the girl outside who was throwing rocks onto the tin roof of the classroom. Then, as I wiped the tropical permasweat off my brow, the eighth graders took their exam.
It revealed a complete lack of knowledge in all aspects of the English language.
They had supposedly studied English for seven years.
This was a problem. They didn’t speak my language. I didn’t speak theirs. I was supposed to teach them English, but what language was I supposed to teach them in?
At least they had known how to take the test. Many of the younger students had failed even that. The format was multiple-choice. Some students had circled more than one answer. Some had filled in their own answers. Some had circled the question. And several students had simply sat at their desks, circling nothing at all, seeming perfectly satisfied with this performance. They didn’t seem to grasp the fact that when one was given an exam, one was expected to do the exam.
I had had enough. It was lunchtime, so I released my wards from their educational chains. I left the drab concrete schoolhouse and stepped onto Ujae Island’s main artery, a five-foot-wide footpath of dirt and gravel. I walked. And, for a moment, the frustrations and absurdities of teaching faded away. Coconut trees were fireworks that arced into the sky and exploded in green. Pandanus trees, angular and mop-headed, seemed cut from the pages of a Dr. Seuss book. Breadfruit trees cast generous shadows. The lagoon, never more than twenty feet away, fulfilled every postcard cliché of tropical paradise. On the beach, muscular island men were beaching their wooden sailing canoe after a morning on the water, strings sagging with the weight of colorful reef fish. In a thatched cookhouse, a woman tended to her coconut-husk fire, while children challenged themselves with native juggling games on the house grounds. The trade breeze rustled through tropical foliage.
“PEEJA!”
“Petar!”
“PETER!”
The paparazzi toddlers were upon me. I was Brad Pitt, and I had been sight
ed. The youngsters swarmed around me, barking native babble, jumping with excitement. Nothing could shake them—not indifference, not indulgence, not anger, and definitely not autographs. I was famous here, and never in my life had I so yearned for anonymity.
My junior fan club followed me all the way to my doorstep. Mercifully, this was an uncrossable line. The press conference was over. There would be peace.
No, there would not. The local family I lived with was performing its daily, dawn-to-dusk Wagnerian opera of dysfunctions. My host sister was yelling orders at her small army of offspring, who responded with disgruntled monosyllables. The toddler was screaming. The baby was crying. The roosters were crowing. The dog was chasing a pig, and both animals were being rather vocal about it. This tiny tropical island was the loudest place I had ever lived.
There would be food, at least. Delectable fish, caught only minutes previous? A lobster, perchance? An assortment of tropical fruits?
No. Lunch was rice—just rice, with nothing on it. I had eaten nothing but that and flour pancakes for a week now.
So as I sat there, downing unseasoned white rice, listening to a chorus of cries and screams and barks and squeals, mulling over my less-than-successful first day of school, I considered my options. I could take a stroll, but the opposite shore was five minutes away. I could talk out my difficulties, but there were no fluent English speakers in this village. I could call a friend, but the island had no telephones. I could distract myself with entertainment, but there were no televisions, computers, or newspapers. I could draw from my well of previous experience, but I had none. I could leave, but not for another year.
And so I wondered: how had I become a twenty-one-year-old American in a two-thousand-year-old village? What had possessed me to spend my rookie teaching year at a school that was officially among the pacific’s worst? How had I wound up incommunicado on an island five thousand miles from home, two thousand miles from the closest continent, and seventy miles from the nearest store, hotel, bank, restaurant, road, car, faucet, shower, refrigerator, or fellow American? Why had I confined myself to an ocean-flat, third-of-asquare-mile speck? Why had I chosen to reduce myself from a college graduate to this: an infant, a deaf-mute, a cultural orphan?
Then I remembered why.
I was here because I had fallen in love with this island. Was it love at first sight? Hardly. It was love before first sight. It was love at first mention, first conception—the first shudder of an idea that there was a place so far from everything, so tiny and little known, where men still fished with spears and women still healed with jungle medicine. It was a place unknown and therefore, maybe, perfect—a place, I hoped, of consummate peace and perpetual romance. And I had the certainty that this island would be mine alone, because there were no tourists here, no beachcombers, no anthropologists, no rivals to dilute her affection.
I wanted Ujae to be my far-off paradise. Ujae wanted me to be its English teacher. So we married and we met, in that order.
1
Moon Landing
THE PLANE THAT BROUGHT ME TO UJAE ISLAND WAS SO SMALL THAT they weighed both my luggage and me before I could step aboard. A sign placed prominently in the cockpit declared “No Acrobatic Maneuvers Allowed,” as if the pilots daily fought the temptation to pull a barrel roll just for the thrill of it. On August 19, 2003, the twelve-seat Dornier took off from the enormous paved runway of Majuro International Airport, in the urban capital of the Marshall Islands, bound for the remote island that was to be my home.
I wasn’t entirely convinced that Ujae existed. After all, its country of residence—the Republic of the Marshall Islands—was not just unfamiliar but unheard of. Its region of the Pacific Ocean—Micronesia—sounded like some obscure Greek city-state. And I was sure that someone had invented the name of its native language—Marshallese—in a moment of panic. The Marshalls were not even near any place Americans had heard of, discounting the occasional World War II history fanatic who could discuss the tactics of individual battles fought in the Bismarck Archipelago. The Philippines lay to the west, but 2,500 miles was hardly spitting distance. Hawaii was a neighbor, if two thousand miles of empty ocean is considered a short ride.
So I feared Ujae Island wasn’t real: a cartographers’ hoax that no one had bothered to expose. Perhaps I would look down at 9 degrees north, 166 degrees east—the supposed location of this hypothetical island—and find nothing but water, while the pilot offered confused apologies. But then I saw a brilliant cyan reef stretching into the all-swallowing horizon, a tiny green island sprouting out of its shallows. The plane was already low, and I could see the airstrip, a straight machete-cut through the jungle, approaching through the cockpit window. The wheels touched land, shaking the plane violently, and tropical trees streamed by as the brakes screamed into action. The plane stopped a few seconds before it would have careened past the end of the runway into the lagoon. The pilot opened the door. I looked out.
If the runway was no more than a grass field, the airport terminal was no more than a shack. A dozen wooden supports and a corrugated tin roof formed Ujae Domestic in all its glory. But my attention was focused on the hundred or so people waiting for the plane: men in sun-bleached Salvation Army fare, women in colorful muumuus, a veritable army of disheveled children. I knew why this crowd of islanders had come here. They had come here to welcome me. They had come here to shower their long-awaited guest with gifts and greetings. They would take me by the hand and guide me through the village, pointing out important landmarks and teaching me native words. They would hold a grand feast in my honor, where I would be fed more than I could possibly eat. The most revered elders would adorn me with shell necklaces until my neck hurt from the weight.
It was too perfect. I was the space explorer making first contact with the alien race, Neil Armstrong stepping in slow motion onto the lunar surface. My feet touched the island for the first time, and I looked at the sea of faces in front of me. They looked back. This was the moment I had dreamed of.
Then something went wrong.
The children’s curious glances froze into stares. They didn’t approach me. They didn’t greet me. They just stood in a line like a firing squad and watched. Meanwhile the adults assumed a look of complete indifference and went about their business of loading and unloading cargo as if nothing were unusual—as if the arrival of a stranger on an island without strangers were somehow normal. I felt simultaneously invisible and too visible—anything but welcomed. Had they even known I was coming? Did they care?
I stood next to the plane, holding my scant luggage, and wondered if I could pretend there had been some sort of mix-up: “Sorry, this isn’t the Ujae I was looking for,” I would say—which was the truth—and fly back home. Then the plane sped down the airstrip, entered the sky, and disappeared. The commitment was now total.
Finally, a man approached me. He was an elder with weathered skin and a facial expression that married friendliness with seriousness. He didn’t need to ask who I was. He shook my hand and said, “Alfred.” I had been told this name before I arrived. He was the head of the household where I would live. He was my legitimacy in the community.
Alfred guided me past the airport shack, through a grove of out-of-place pine trees, and between rows of low coconut palms laden with fruit. He led me past a grassy clearing, a garden plot, and a trail overhung with flame trees. Not pointing out anything or anyone, he took me through the village, a long strand of houses nestled between a green wall of jungle and the blue expanse of the lagoon. Leaf roofs alternated with metal ones. Thatched walls alternated with concrete ones. Windowpanes alternated with holes. Men and women minded their own business—drawing water from a well, tending to a fire, sharpening a knife, sitting on an old coconut. Children rolling bicycle tires in the road stopped to stare. A few of them attempted to talk to me, but their incomprehensible chatter only increased my sense of isolation. I could not imagine that I would ever understand that exotic babble. A toddler caught a glimpse
of me, then cried, and I registered the secret, guilty thrill of being in a place so remote that the color of my skin was enough to strike fear into the hearts of children.
The air smelled of earthy decay, and trees—palm, pandanus, breadfruit, banana, papaya—sprouted everywhere. From the plane, all of Ujae had seemed a forest, but I saw now that its village of 450 souls covered half the island. Passing a group of young men, I pulled out one of the only native words I knew: yokwe, for “hello.” They timidly responded in kind. I tried the same with a group of young women, but they said nothing, and their downcast faces burned so hotly with self-consciousness that I was afraid I had broken some inscrutable taboo by speaking to them.
Alfred led me up a tiny hill to our destination: a gravel-strewn property where two squat concrete dwellings sat across from an airy wooden cookhouse. There was a picnic table, a well, and a rainwater tank. An old woman and a middle-aged mother holding a baby emerged from the shadowy interior of the cookhouse, followed by a toddler. Two young boys looked up from their snack of orange pandanus kernels. A man stood at the top of a ladder with a knife clenched in his teeth, then climbed down to greet me. Alfred led me into one of the concrete houses and showed me my room: a ten-by-ten expanse, empty except for a mattress on the floor and a white plastic lawn chair. I dropped my duffel bag, and the guitar that I was sure I would have time to learn. I walked back to the spartan common room where the family had gathered.
Alfred introduced everyone with gestures. The older woman was Alfred’s wife, Tior. The younger woman was their daughter Elina. The man on the ladder was Elina’s husband, Lisson. The boys, looking about seven and nine years old, were Tamlino and Erik. The toddler was Easter, and the baby was named Nakwol. Elina and Lisson’s two other children, and Alfred and Tior’s five others, had left the island for the urban centers. These were the De Brums: a Marshallese family with a European surname.
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