The River at the Centre of the World

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The River at the Centre of the World Page 45

by Simon Winchester


  Poyang Lake, 157, 165, 246

  Princess Jeannie (ship), 91

  Printing house, 389–91

  Prosperous Kingdom Guest House, 65–6

  Prostitution, 72–4, 78–9, 146

  Pu Lan Tian. See Plant, Cornell

  Pu Ping, 312

  Pu Yi, 21, 130, 206, 211

  Public Security Bureau, 28, 304, 330, 372

  Putonghua (common speech), 26

  Qamdo, 389, 393, 395, 397

  Qemo Ho Lake, 351, 352–3

  Qian Shan Po, 277

  Qianlong, Emperor, 155

  Qiatou, 346, 356

  Qin dynasty, 158

  Qing dynasty, 15, 95, 121, 143, 174, 209, 276, 360, 375, 376, 379

  Qingdao, 220

  Qinghai province, 33, 245, 333, 343, 374, 393

  Qiyang, 143

  Qumar stream, 351

  Qutang Gorge, 271

  Rabe, John, 133

  Rafting expeditions, 353–9

  Railway Protection Movement, 207, 209

  Railways, 57–61, 129, 205–10, 370

  Rainfall, 151–53, 158

  Ransomes and Rapier, 59

  Rape of Nanking, 131, 134

  Rapids, 305–6, 345–9, 357

  Red Army, 306, 313–14

  Red Basin, 225, 265, 294, 295, 375

  Red Guards, 201, 275, 340, 383

  Red River, 3, 366, 367

  Red tea, 180

  Regal China Company, 258

  Renmin Wenbao, 169

  Retention basins, 158

  Rice industry, 184

  Riding the Dragon's Back (Bangs & Kallen), 412–13

  River of Golden Sand, 295, 299, 350, 352, 353, 358

  River pilots, 36

  River to Heaven, 345, 350–52, 353

  Rock, Joseph, 127, 302, 332–34, 338, 340, 412

  Rocks 271

  Rolls-Royce cars, 136–7

  Rose Island, 107

  Russell & Co., 177

  Rustomjee, Heerjeebhoy, 177

  Sailing Through China (Theroux), 408

  Salween River, 364, 373, 393

  Sampans (small boats), 47, 300, 306

  Sand Pebbles, The (McKenna), 286, 410

  Sandouping, 229, 231, 232–3, 245

  Sanxia, 169

  Satellite communications, 309–10

  Savage, John L, 227, 229

  Schistosomes, 195

  Science and Civilisation in China (Needham), 410

  Second Opium War, 204

  Seeds of Change (Hobhouse), 412

  Sexual morals, 145–6, 320, 332, 334–5, 378

  Sexually transmitted diseases, 334–5

  Shadwell, Charles, 50

  Shamanism, 329, 367, 406

  Shanghai Club, 36, 75, 84

  Shanghai Down Express, 12

  Shashi, 244

  Shen-nung, Emperor, 363

  Shennong Stream, 289, 290, 291

  Shenyang, 216

  Shigatse, 401

  Shigu, 3–4, 20, 359, 362, 365, 373

  Shimantan Dam, 240

  Ship locks, 255–6

  Shipai, 232

  Shippee, David, 354, 358

  Shippee, Margit, 355

  Shipwrecks, 44–5

  Shun, Emperor, 363

  Shutung (ship), 269

  Sichuan Basin, 225, 237, 375

  Sichuan Corporation for International Cultural Development, 371

  Sichuan province, 213, 226, 295, 297, 313, 314, 371, 377

  Signal stations, 272–3,299–300

  Sikhs, 72, 76

  Sikkim 383

  Silk industry, 123, 283

  Silk Road, 313

  Single Pebble, A (Hersey), 230, 254, 408

  Singsong girls, 139–40

  Sixteen Points for the Cultural Revolution, 201

  Smedley, Agnes, 215

  Snowmelts, 151, 153, 158

  Soochow Creek, 72

  Sourcewaters, 349–53, 404–6

  South China Sea, 54

  South Manchurian Railway, 129

  Space programme, 309–10

  Sperling, E., 134

  Spratly Islands, 53

  Standard Guide Book to Shanghai, 412

  Star TV, 309

  Steepness, 344, 349

  Stilwell, ‘Vinegar Joe’, 287

  Su, Mr, 67–9

  Subways, 81

  Suez Canal, 179

  Sui dynasty, 100

  Suicides, 319–20, 332

  Suifu, 295

  Sun Yat-sen, 51, 125, 211, 215, 225, 228

  Sun Ziming, 330

  Sung dynasty, 100

  Swimmers, 194–203

  ‘Swimming' (poem), 218, 231

  Szechuan province, 284

  Taco Bell, 213

  Tactical Pilot Charts (TPCs), 30–31, 409

  Taipan (company chief), 63, 65, 75, 86, 89

  Taiping Rebellion, 121n, 134n, 142

  Taipings, 121

  Taipingxi, 232

  Tang dynasty, 100, 114, 254, 330

  Tang, Mr, 370–71, 374, 396, 397, 400

  Tanggula Range, 398, 399, 405

  Tanggula township, 402–3

  Tannu-Tuva, 381

  Taoists, 224, 330, 338–9, 341

  Taotai (city official) 597183

  TCBY store, 212–13

  Tea clippers, 175, 205

  Tea industry, 166–7, 170, 173–86, 380–81

  Tea-making process, 181–2

  Tectonics, 367

  Telegraph cable, 58n

  Television, 309

  Tempe, Arizona, 116

  Ten thousand li Yangtze (painting), 10, 14–23

  Tennyson, Alfred Lord, 48

  Theacea plants, 174

  Theroux, Paul, 408

  Thistle and the Jade, The (Keswick), 412

  Three Gorges, 25, 26, 29, 97, 225, 226n, 228, 235, 243–4, 266, 287–9, 345, 366

  Three Gorges Dam, 19, 164, 169, 219, 223, 225, 226–46, 249–53, 255, 257–62, 276–7, 371

  Three Gorges Hotel, 247–8

  Three Gorges Project Corporation, 249, 259

  Through the Yangtze Gorges or, Trade and Travel in Western China (Little), 411

  Tiananmen Square, 235, 239, 379

  Tianjin, 131

  Tibet, 322, 356, 369–70, 373–6, 379–407

  Tibetan foothills, 303

  Tibetan people, 278–9, 322–3, 325, 383–91

  Tibetan Plateau, 150, 225, 295, 345, 351, 382, 396, 406

  Tides, 124–5, 160

  Tientsin, 95

  Tiger Leaping Gorge, 327, 330, 346–9, 356, 366

  Tokyo War Crimes Tribunal, 132, 134

  Tolley, Admiral Kemp, 410–11

  Tongtian He, 345, 350–52, 354

  Topographical maps, 30–31

  Trackers, 267, 268, 277, 279, 289–90

  Travel Survival Guide to China, 409

  Treaty of Nanking, 142–5, 270

  Trobriand Islanders, 334

  Tsampa (Tibetan food), 380, 396

  Tsingtao beer, 220, 311

  Tuotuo stream, 322, 340–41, 374

  Tuotuoheyan, 403, 405

  Tuotuoheyan bridge, 404, 406–7

  U.S. Bureau of Reclamation, 236, 241

  Upper Hutiao Shoal, 349, 356

  ur-Chinese, 25

  Ürümqi, 216

  Van Slyke, Lyman, 408

  Vietnam, 53, 264, 366

  Vinegar industry, 97–9

  Wahnsien Incident of 1926, 283–5

  Walker, Caroline, 411

  Walker, Frank, 316–17, 322

  Wallich, Nathaniel, 178

  Wang Hui, 10, 14, 15–16, 20, 325, 352, 405

  Wang, Mr, 312, 316

  Wang-ching, 95

  Wanxian, 234, 274, 282, 283–6

  War Crimes Tribunal, 132, 134

  Warlords, 284–5

  Warren, Ken, 354–5, 358

  Water snakes, 194–5

  Weale, Putnam, 85n

  Wen Li Chang Jiang (paintin
g), 10, 14–23

  Wen Zi-jian, 171, 191–2

  Weng, Wan-go, 14–23, 25

  Whangpoo Park, 85

  Whangpoo River, 48–9, 52, 56, 66, 78, 84, 91, 94

  Whangpoo River Tide Gauge, 48

  Whirlpools, 271, 345

  White water, 346, 348

  Widgeon, HMS, 285

  Williams-Ellis, Clough, 63

  Wilson, Ernest, 337

  Wind Moving Pagoda of Anqing, 154–60

  Wong How Man, 351

  Woodcock, HMS, 268

  Woodlark, HMS, 268

  Woosung, 57–9, 61

  Woosung Bar, 48–53, 58, 205, 226, 407

  Woosung Fort, 110

  Woosung Road Co. Ltd, 59

  Worcester, George, 270, 301, 409

  World Bank, 165, 233, 241, 251

  Wu De Yin, 148–9,162–3, 167

  Wu Han, 189–91, 191n

  Wu Wei, 322–6, 355, 370

  Wuchang, 203, 209

  Wuhan, 26, 130, 154, 155, 157, 191, 195, 196, 198n, 199, 201, 202–5, 209, 211–17, 221, 237, 245, 267, 281, 287, 366

  Wuhu, 124

  Wuliangye distillery, 297–8

  Wupans (small boats), 47

  Wusong Kou, 45, 48

  Xiamen, 216

  Xian, 209, 313

  Xiang River, 198, 217–18

  Xiao-an, 79

  Xichang, 306, 309–10

  Xikang province, 375, 377, 379

  Xiling Gorge, 229, 257n, 268, 272, 273

  Xing Guo Hotel, 65

  Xinjiang province, 245

  Xintan, 273, 274–9

  Xishuangbanna, 327

  Xu Xiake, 350

  Xu Xiaoyang, 370–74

  Xuan Ke, 329–30

  Xuan-tong. See Pu Yi

  Ya‘an, 378

  Yaks, 382, 403

  Yalong Jiang, 306, 316

  Yang Sen, 284–5

  Yang Shangkun, 91, 198, 199–200

  Yangshuo, 327

  Yangtze – Nature History and the River (Van Slyke), 408

  Yangtze Dam. See Three Gorges Dam

  Yangtze Entrance Large Automatic Navigation Buoy, 33, 35

  Yangtze First Bridge, 122–4, 202, 281

  Yangtze furnaces, 281

  Yangtze Patrol (Tolley), 410–11

  Yangtze Reminiscences (Torrible), 411

  Yangtze Valley and Beyond, The (Bird), 411

  Yangtze Valley Planning Office, 245

  Yangtze, Yangtze (Dai Qing), 239, 411

  Yangzhou, 113–14, 116, 122

  Yangzi River, The (Bonavia), 409

  Yanshiping, 403

  Yao Mao-shu, 352–3, 355, 358

  Ye, Dr, 183–6

  Yellow Emperor, 362–3

  Yellow River, 3, 11, 25, 101, 150, 152, 244n, 293

  Yen-yu Stone, 271

  Yi people, 301, 303–5, 307–8, 325

  Yibin, 295, 313, 344, 350, 358

  Yichang, 19, 29, 220, 226, 229, 229, 237, 244, 247–9, 253, 262, 265, 274, 281

  Yongning, 303

  Young Pioneers 360

  Younghusband, Sir Francis, 375–6, 376, 377

  Yu Kehua, 97–9

  Yu Shan Mountain, 287

  Yü the Great, 4, 158, 214, 263–4, 287, 363–5, 366, 367

  Yuan Mei, 98, 99

  Yuelong Xueshan, 326–7

  Yunnan province, 213, 228, 295, 313, 314, 322, 325, 327, 337, 340, 365

  Yushu, 350, 353, 356, 377

  Zhang Zu Long, 56–7

  Zhao Erfang, 377

  Zhengjiang, 94, 96–117, 131, 143

  Zhengjiang Museum, 104, 111–12

  Zhong Sha light, 38, 53

  Zhong Shan roads, 125

  Zhongbao Island, 231, 258, 261

  Zhou Enlai, 148, 257, 313, 314

  Zhou Peiyuan, 239

  Zhu, Captain, 41, 44

  Zhu De, 107, 108, 109

  * Myself a Mandarin, required reading for anyone bound for Hong Kong.

  * The phrase ‘ten thousand li’ is widely used in China to describe an entity – most notably the Great Wall – that is known for its extreme length. The phrase is not meant to be taken literally – just as well considering the li's notorious flexibility as a unit of measure: an uphill li being longer than a downhill li, a Shanghai li being shorter than a Chengdu li. But the Yangtze benefits from a happy arithmetical accident: the early western railway builders in China fixed a firm definition onto the unit, making one li equivalent to precisely 25/58ths of an English mile. Since the Yangtze measures 3964 miles from source to sea, Wang Hui might consider his fancy vindicated: his ten-thousand-li river is 9200 li from end to end – near enough.

  * Yellow, the quintessential Chinese Imperial colour, was only allowed to be worn by the Emperor and Princes of the Blood Royal.

  * There had been all kinds of problems. The ships owned by the company had all been built in East Germany for the Volga trade and drew three feet more than was permissible in this unusually low-water autumn. So a journey that normally took three days took five, and involved two boats and a day-long bus journey. The following day the same bus, performing the same portage, crashed, killing three passengers.

  * Bunds – waterfront roads – exist in the foreign settlements all along the Yangtze, as well as in Calcutta. But in Hong Kong the road was named the Praya, a linguistic infection prompted by the closeness of Macau, which was run by the Portuguese.

  * The efforts of foreign hydrographers were once memorialized along the entire Chinese coastline, from Charlotte Point (near the frontier with today's North Korea) via Shovel-Nosed Shark Island and the Bear and Cubs (outside what was then called Ningpo), Crocodile Island and the Three Chimneys (by the former Foochow), the Cape of Good Hope and the Asses Ears (near the former Amoy), Cape Bastion (China's most southerly point) to Nightingale or Merryman's Island, in the Gulf of Tonkin. But since the 1950s these names have generally vanished. They went not only because of Communism's crusading zeal: the admiralties in London and Washington realized quite quickly that the Chinese had already named everything, and had inscribed the names on their own charts, hundreds of years before any foreign nation had even started to build ships.

  * He was released in 1975 but was never allowed to publish his poems again and died in 1980. His daughter insists his heart was broken.

  * And excessively bulky pigs at that: Chongming Dao pig farmers were once notorious through all China for injecting their market-bound carcasses with water, to increase the weight and the market price.

  * Given that bars are created whenever one moving body of water meets another – when a river meets the ocean, or a lake, or when a river meets another river – it should be added that there is technically a second Yangtze bar, at the place where the river meets the sea, and which Victorian hydrographers named the Fairy Flats. It is two miles wide, and at one time it limited river traffic to ships drawing less than eighteen feet. On a stormy day it can be a furious place – Tennyson would have loved it. But nowadays it no longer really exists – not as a hazard to navigation. In 1935 the Whangpoo Conservancy Board embarked on a scheme to dredge five million tons of mud away from it each year: a channel through Fairy Flats, twenty-seven feet deep at least, is now permanently guaranteed.

  * They already had the deck of an old Australian carrier, stripped off the hull and bolted onto an aerodrome runway near Beijing, where it was used for practice.

  * Much the same atmosphere of suspicion and secrecy surrounded the construction of the first telegraph cable, which also came into China via Woosung. A Danish company built it, but was told that the infernal cable could not touch any part of the Celestial Empire, but had to be landed on a hulk, moored out in the river. The Danes ignored this and paid the cable secretly out along the Whangpoo, bringing it ashore at night, in a hut. It was some while before the Court found out, by which time the telegraph's value had been indisputably proven.

  * The Prisoner, with Patrick McGoohan.

  * When funds ran low the
city government created a private company to run the tower, and floated shares on the Shanghai Stock Exchange. Hotel rooms inside the larger pearls will produce, the owners trust, enough of a profit to keep the investors – the Shanghai public – at least happy enough not to want to storm the structure and tear it down.

  * It was actually the American Henry Wolcott's Stars and Stripes that flew first in Shanghai, because the British took a while to acquire a flagpole.

  * It commemorates the second great campaign of the 1949 revolution, when Mao's soldiers advanced from the Huai River to the sea, and were thus poised to take Shanghai.

  * The old man was deluded. Official, but unpublished, figures say that there were 300,000 unemployed in the city in 1996.

  * Academics continue to pore over the saga. A study in the China Quarterly showed that in 1903 Regulation Number 1 on the notice board of what was then called the Recreation Ground said ‘No dogs or bicycles are admitted’, and Regulation Number 5, several inches below, read ‘No Chinese are admitted, except servants in attendance upon foreigners.’ That was as close as dog ever came to Chinaman – close enough, though, for the mythmakers (the first of whom was an American journalist named Putnam Weale, who wrote a novel in 1914 mentioning the supposed sign).

  * Mao's revolutionary troops entered, on Wednesday 25 May 1949 without any break in the city routine, except that an insomniac radio listener noted that Beethoven's Fifth Symphony was played over and over again during the night. When morning came the Communists were in firm control.

  * The trip (in 1986), the first to China by a reigning British monarch, had not been a success, and there was much fodder for the tabloid press. Prince Philip, the Queen's prickly consort, had remarked tactlessly to a Scottish student in Xian that if he stayed much longer he would risk getting ‘slitty eyes’. One paper thereafter referred to him as ‘The Great Wally of China’.

  * His position was wrong by about seventy-five miles. But he can hardly be blamed: his charts were torn to pieces and soaked in officers' blood.

  * So named by George Orwell, only four years before.

  * At one time the project's overseer was a peculiarly cruel man named Ma Shumou, better known as Mahu, the Barbarous One. He was said to have eaten a steamed two-year-old child each day he worked on the Canal – and to this day naughty children are warned by their mothers to behave, ‘or else Mahu will get you!’

 

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