by Dave Dewitt
And the story of the habanero doesn’t end here either. In chapter 10, I reveal the habanero’s one brief shining moment when it was known as the hottest chile pepper in the world.
recipes
Callaloo. Photo by Pabst_ell. iStock.
JOHNNY’S FOOD HAVEN PEPPER SAUCE
yield
2 cups
heat scale
extremely hot
The motto at Johnny’s Food Haven is “Trinidad home cooking away from home.” Johnny serves his food cafeteria-style—one of only two or three restaurants to do so in Trinidad.
5
congo peppers (habaneros) or as many as can be stuffed into 1 cup
1
cup water
½
teaspoon salt
1
onion, minced
2
cloves garlic, minced
¼
cup shadow bennie (culantro), or substitute cilantro, minced
Puree the peppers with the water in a blender. Add the remaining ingredients and let the mixture sit for at least an hour to blend the flavors. Serve with grilled meats, poultry, or fish.
variation Add cooked and pureed pumpkin (Hubbard squash) or carrots to make the sauce milder.
CALLALOO
yield
8 to 10 servings
heat scale
varies
This remarkable bright green soup is often called “the national dish of T&T.” As prepared by chefs Keith Toby and Irvine Jackson of the Café Savannah, it usually features callaloo (taro leaves or dasheen), but spinach is an excellent substitute. Use coconut milk, not the canned, sickly sweet coconut cream used in drinks.
3
bundles callaloo or 3 bunches fresh spinach, washed, tough ribs removed, coarsely chopped
4
cups coconut milk (made by soaking 4 cups grated coconut in 4 cups of hot water for a ½ hour, then straining it)
2
cups milk
2
cloves garlic, minced
2
medium onions, chopped
1
bunch scallions, chopped
¼
pound pumpkin or Hubbard squash, peeled and coarsely chopped
¼
pound butter
Salt and pepper to taste
Habanero hot sauce to taste
In a stockpot or soup pot, combine all the ingredients and boil for 4 minutes. Reduce the heat and simmer for 40 minutes. If too thick, add more milk. Remove from the heat, cool, and puree in a blender in small batches. Reheat the soup and serve.
variation Add 2 cups of cooked crab meat to the finished callaloo.
ROYAL CASTLE FRIED CHICKEN
yield
3 to 4 servings
heat scale
medium
This marinated chicken was available all over Trinidad at the Royal Castle restaurants, and we’ve duplicated it here for people not able to visit Trinidad. Marie Permenter serves it with a sweet coleslaw and french fries (called “chips,” of course). We munched on it while driving all over Trinidad.
1
chicken, cut up into 6 pieces
1
bottle Trinidad habanero sauce (available at gourmet shops and by mail order), or more to taste
2
tablespoons water
1
egg, beaten
Flour for dredging
Oil for frying (soy or canola)
Arrange the chicken in a glass baking dish and pour the sauce over it. Sprinkle the water over the top and marinate the chicken overnight in the refrigerator.
Remove the chicken from the marinade and let it drain in a colander. Dip the pieces in the egg and then place them in a large plastic bag filled with the flour. Shake the bag to coat all the pieces, and then fry them in the oil, saving the breasts until last since they will take less time. The legs and thighs will take about 8 minutes per side. Do not crowd the chicken, and fry it in two batches if necessary.
Drain the chicken on paper towels and serve immediately with additional habanero sauce.
RAMESAR CURRIED MANGO
yield
6 to 8 servings
heat scale
mild
This recipe is from our cooking lesson with Nancy Ramesar. She includes the mango seeds as part of the recipe because, as she says, it’s great to pick them up and suck the flavor off them. Nancy uses the famous Chief brand Amchar Massala, but a good substitute is to toast 6 tablespoons of coriander seeds, 1 teaspoon of fenugreek seeds, 2 teaspoons of fennel seeds, 1 teaspoon of mustard seeds, and 1 ½ teaspoons of cumin seeds, and grind them all together.
4
green mangos, only about half ripe
2
tablespoons vegetable oil
1
cup water
2
cloves garlic, mashed
2
tablespoons Amchar Massala or commercial curry powder
Scrub the mangoes thoroughly, leave the skins on, and cut into 2-inch slices, leaving some mango meat on the seeds.
Heat the oil in a large, heavy casserole. Add the mashed garlic cloves, water, and masala, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes on medium heat.
Add the mangoes and stir to coat them with the mixture. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer until tender, about 30 to 40 minutes.
Check the mixture about halfway through the cooking and add more water if it is dry. Taste the mixture when it’s done, and if it’s too sour, add 1 teaspoon of sugar.
THE PRIME MINISTER’S HOT SAUCE
yield
about 2 cups
heat scale
hot
Here is the hot recipe of the famous Errol W. Barrow, who was prime minister of Barbados from 1961 to 1976 and again from 1986 until his death in 1987. He was also an accomplished cook and published Privilege: Cooking in the Caribbean (Macmillan Caribbean) in 1988. He notes: “Pepper sauce recipes can be adjusted to suit individual tastes: green papaya, green mango may also be used.” We have modified this recipe slightly for the food-processor-enhanced kitchen.
6
large bonney peppers, seeds and stems removed, chopped
1
large onion, coarsely chopped
2
small cloves garlic
1
tablespoon mustard
1
tablespoon white vinegar
1
tablespoon vegetable oil
½
cup chopped carrots
1
cup water
Salt and pepper to taste
Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and boil for about 15 minutes. Adjust the consistency with water. Puree in a food processor or blender and bottle in sterilized bottles.
BAJAN SEASONING
yield
about 2 to 3 cups
heat scale
hot
This version of the famous island seasoning is from Ann Marie Whittaker, who notes: “This is found in almost every home and is the secret to the success for many mouth-watering Bajan dishes.” One of the favorite uses is to place it between the meat and skin of chicken pieces before grilling, baking, or frying. Note: This recipe requires advance preparation.
2
large onions, peeled and coarsely chopped
10
green onions, white parts only, coarsely chopped
8
garlic cloves, peeled
4
bonney peppers, seeds and stems removed, or substitute habaneros
2
ounces fresh thyme
2
ounces fresh parsley
2
ounces fresh marjoram
1 ½
cups vinegar
2
tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1
teaspoon ground cloves
¼
teaspoon black pepper
3
t
ablespoons salt
In a food processor, combine the onions, green onion, garlic, and bonney peppers, and process to a coarse paste.
Remove the leaves from the stems of the thyme, parsley, and marjoram. Place the leaves and the vinegar in a food processor or blender and liquefy.
Combine the onion paste, vinegar mixture, and the remaining ingredients in a bowl, and mix well. Cover, transfer to the refrigerator, and allow to sit for 1 week before using. The seasoning will keep in the refrigerator for at least 6 months.
ENID WORRELL’S CORNED BONNEY PEPPERS
yield
1 pint
heat scale
hot
In tiny Bathsheba on the wild Atlantic coast of Barbados, Enid Worrell creates some of the best Bajan cuisine at her establishment, the Bonito Bar and Restaurant. She was kind enough to give us her recipe for corned—or pickled—bonney peppers. The vinegar acquires the heat of the peppers, and then it’s sprinkled over fish or curries. The pickled peppers are chopped up and used when fresh ones are not available. Note: This recipe requires advance preparation.
1
pint fresh red bonney peppers, or substitute habaneros, stems removed, left whole
1
tablespoon vegetable oil
1
teaspoon salt
1
tablespoon rum
White vinegar to cover
Place the peppers in a 1-pint jar. Add the vegetable oil, salt, and rum, then add the vinegar to cover all. Shake vigorously. Allow the peppers to pickle for at least 2 weeks before using. As the vinegar is used, replace it with fresh vinegar.
CREOLE PUMPKIN SOUP
yield
6 servings
heat scale
medium
Here is a classic Caribbean soup, as served at the Sandy Beach Resort. Be sure to use a mustard-based Bajan sauce such as Windmill or Lottie’s. Remember that pumpkin in the Caribbean is winter squash, such as Hubbard.
2
tablespoons vegetable oil
1
medium onion, diced
3
cloves garlic, minced
2
medium carrots, diced
3
tablespoons brown sugar
1
teaspoon ground nutmeg
5
cups chicken stock
5
cups chopped Hubbard squash
½
cup butter
1
cup cream
3
tablespoons fresh lime juice
2
tablespoons Bajan hot sauce
In a large pot, heat the vegetable oil and sauté the onion, garlic, and carrots until the carrots are soft. Stir in the sugar and nutmeg.
Add the chicken stock and squash, and cook until the squash is soft. Transfer the mixture to a food processor or blender and puree until smooth. Return to the pot, add the butter, cream, lime juice, and hot sauce. Heat, stir well, and serve.
FRIED FLYING FISH
yield
4 servings
heat scale
varies
There are a great number of variations on this favorite Bajan specialty. This is probably the favorite version, as described in John Lake’s book, The Culinary Heritage of Barbados. Flying fish is sometimes found frozen in Florida markets; if it’s not available, substitute any mild white fish, such as flounder.
8
small flying-fish fillets
Bajan seasoning as needed (see recipe)
2
eggs, beaten
Bread crumbs and flour, mixed
½
cup butter
Lime slices and parsley for garnish
Bajan hot sauce, such as Windmill or Lottie’s
Rub the fillets with the Bajan seasoning, then dip them in the beaten eggs, then in the bread crumbs and flour. Fry the fillets in the butter until lightly browned, turning once.
Serve garnished with the lime slices and parsley. Sprinkle hot sauce over the fillets to taste.
JAMAICAN JERK PORK
yield
6 or more servings
heat scale
medium-hot
The “jerk” in jerk pork is a spice mixture that was used to preserve meat before refrigeration. It was developed by the Arawak Indians and later refined in Jamaica by runaway slaves known as Maroons. These days, the spices are used to season meats for barbecue and to tenderize rather than to preserve. An inexpensive smoker or a covered grill can be substituted for the traditional jerk pit and is a lot easier than digging a pit in your yard. Note: This recipe requires advance preparation.
PASTE
3 to 4
Scotch bonnet chiles, stems and seeds removed, chopped
¼
cup chopped green onions, including some of the greens
3
tablespoons crushed allspice (pimiento) berries, or substitute 2 teaspoons ground berries
3
tablespoons fresh thyme
3
cloves garlic
2
tablespoons grated ginger
2
tablespoons lime juice, fresh preferred
2
tablespoons red wine vinegar
2
bay leaves
3
teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
2
teaspoons ground cardamom
1
teaspoon ground cinnamon
1
teaspoon ground nutmeg
1
teaspoon salt
3 to 4
tablespoons vegetable oil
1
3- to 4-pound pork butt or loin roast
To make the jerk paste, either pound the ingredients together using a mortar and pestle or place them in a blender or food processor, adding the oil to make a paste.
Place the roast, fat side down, in a nonreactive pan. Make slashes in the pork about 1 ½ to 2 inches apart and almost through the roast. Rub the jerk over the meat, making sure to get it thoroughly into the slashes. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator overnight.
Remove the pork and bring it to room temperature.
Prepare either the grill or smoker. If using a grill, be sure to use a pan under the pork to catch the drippings. Smoke the pork for about 2 to 3 hours, turning the roast every 30 minutes to ensure even browning. Cook until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part registers 150 degrees F.
Variations: Substitute lamb chops, chicken, or rib steaks for the pork.
A colorfully painted chicken bus roars down a street in Antigua, under the towering majesty of the Agua Volcano, Antigua, Guatemala. Photograph by Paul Ross. Used with permission.
three
NEW WORLD CHILE CUISINES, PART 2: LATIN AMERICA Latin America
Latin America is an enigma when it comes to chile peppers. Since the fiery fruits originated and proliferated there for thousands of years before the Spanish arrived, it would stand to reason that chiles would have permeated all of the cuisines of this vast area. Yet in South America, Peru is hot while Venezuela is not.
Thus there are definite pockets of heat scattered about Latin America, especially in those countries where the indigenous population had a greater influence on the cuisine than the European settlers. Generally speaking, these pockets are the regions where the great civilizations of the Incas, Mayas, and Aztecs arose: Peru and adjoining Andean countries, Yucatán, Central America, and Mexico.
It is in these four areas that the peoples’ fanatic fondness for chile peppers created what I call a “fiery cuisine.” This is not to say that chiles do not appear in other regions; they do, but only sporadically at best. Countries such as Argentina and Chile have some wonderful chile-spiced dishes, but true fiery cuisines have not evolved.
The arrival of Europeans greatly assisted the development of the chile-dominated cuisines of the New World. It is difficult to
imagine the cuisines of the Americas today without the foods introduced by the Spanish, Portuguese, and Africans: grains such as rice, oats, and wheat; fruits such as apples, peaches, mangoes, limes, oranges, olives, bananas, and new varieties of grapes; meats such as chicken, beef, pork, and lamb; vegetables such as onions, garlic, carrots, okra, and lettuce; and spices such as cumin, black pepper, cinnamon, mustard, and horseradish.
