by Dave Dewitt
We had finally found the hot stuff in Costa Rica!
SPICY ADVENTURES IN MEXICO
I’ve visited Mexico more times than any other country in the world. I haven’t kept count but certainly more than 50 trips. The most memorable excursion there was an extended trip covering four locations where we shot video for a documentary entitled Heat Up Your Life, which was produced by Patrick Holian and myself. At the time, Patrick, a good friend, was a videographer and producer at New Mexico State University. Accompanying us as a facilitator and translator was José Marmolejo, another good friend of ours.
I remember the elegant restaurants and highly creative chefs of Mexico City because that was the first time I ever ate huitlacoche, which is a fungus that attacks ears of corn. It is a fascinating food. The fungus infects all parts of the ear by invading its ovaries. The infection causes the corn kernels to swell up into tumorlike galls, whose tissues, texture, and appearance are mushroomlike. It is usually made into a sauce, and the chef who served it to us had spiced it up with chile powder and ladled it over a small grilled beefsteak.
Mexico City offered another quite interesting dish, enchiladas suizas, or “Swiss enchiladas,” a cheesy, creamy concoction that originated at a Sanborns Café in Mexico City in 1950. Its name alludes to the copious amounts of dairy contained in it, usually a cup of sour cream combined with a cup and a half of queso Oaxaca, a very rich cheese from the city of Oaxaca. Since the sour cream and cheese will cut the heat of the chiles, most recipes call for two or three serrano chiles and two poblano chiles.
A bowl of mole negro in Oaxaca. Photograph by Dave DeWitt.
In one of our cooking segments, in order to learn how chiles had influenced Mexican cuisine in the centuries since the Spanish conquest, I accepted the invitation of Lula Bertán, a food expert and television star. She told me that she would prepare a number of chile-oriented dishes for me, and I was eager to see them. My favorite dish she prepared was stuffed jalapeño rings. To make the batter, she combined one cup of flour, one tablespoon baking powder, one tablespoon salt, and about a half cup of milk.
With a whisk, she stirred it until thick. Lula explains the next steps:
To fry jalapeños, you take the seeds out and then you dip the rings in the batter, and right away in the oil. And then you wait for them to get a very nice brown . . . light brown, okay. And then you just take them out and place them on paper towels. Once you have them fried, crispy and good, you are going to stuff them with a mixture of cream cheese and chorizo. You know chorizo is our Mexican sausage, very spicy, lots of chiles in it. What we are going to do is just mix the two of them and have a very nice mixture and then we are just going to put this on top. This is the way to serve them, real hot so that the chile and the chorizo blend very well.
What do Mexicans do when they want to escape the noise and bustle of the big city? They go to the beach, that’s what they do. And we followed their lead to one of the greatest resorts in the world—Cancún. There, at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel, we met up with chef John Gray—on the beach with a grill and a seven-pound red snapper. He was going to prepare tikin xik, pronounced “teekin sheek,” a marinated and grilled whole fish.
First, John prepared the red achiote marinade, which is made from a paste consisting of annatto seeds, oregano, and garlic. This is a very simple blender recipe: add the achiote paste, two ounces of lemon juice, orange juice (preferably bitter orange), a little white vinegar, two large cloves of fresh garlic, a half cup of water, some slices of onion, and a little salt.
He basted the fish with the marinade and then described the next step: “We simply layered the fish with some of the thin slices of onion, fresh tomatoes and the xcatic pepper. We are laying it on the banana leaves to protect it from the fire a little bit, so that it doesn’t actually burn the fish. Because we just want it to steam in the banana leaves.” I was blown away by both the dramatic appearance of the fish and its superb flavor.
In the southern state of Oaxaca, we needed a person to explain the seven moles that are so famous there, and found Susana Trilling, owner of the Seasons of My Heart Cooking School. She was going to show us how to make the most famous mole of the region, mole negro oaxaqueño, and first she told me about the chiles in the dish.
“We’re going to use chilhuacle negro, a chile especially from Oaxaca, pasilla Mexicana, which is a chile from Zacatecas, Mexico, mulato negro or ancho negro, chile guajillo and also the chipotle meco, which is a type of seedless chipotle.”
The chiles are all fried in lard and then added to the following ingredients, as I describe in my script:
Susana adds the pureed tomatoes and tomatillos . . . the grilled onion and garlic mixture . . . the nut mixture that Paula prepared on the metate . . . the bread, plantains, and raisins mixed with the toasted cloves, black pepper, and cinnamon . . . the blackened chile seeds . . . and even more interesting ingredients, such as . . . flame-toasted avocado leaves . . . and some semisweet chocolate ground from beans in the molinas—or mills—in the markets of Oaxaca.
I almost accomplished my goal of tasting all seven Oaxacan moles while I was there, missing only two of them. The ones I tasted (I loved them all) were the black mole from Susana; mole coloradito, a brown mole with chocolate; mole manchamanteles (the tablecloth-staining mole); chichilo oaxaqueño (Oaxacan chichilo), a beef stock–based mole; and mole amarillo (yellow mole). The two I missed were green and red: mole verde and mole rojo.
Space limitations prevent me from sharing the stories of the people we met and the dishes devoured in Ciudad Juárez, Chihuahua; the great times in Baja California Sur at the Hotel California; and the spicy seafood of Puerta Vallarta, Guaymas, and Isla Mujeres. But I have a hunch that readers now understand the Mexicans’ love affair with chile peppers.
FEATURED CHILE PEPPERS
Ancho/Poblano
This chile is a pod type of the annuum species. The name ancho means wide, an allusion to the broad, flat, heart-shaped pods in the dried form. The fresh pod is called poblano.
Anchos are multiple stemmed and compact to semi-erect, semi-woody, and about 25 inches high. The leaves are dark green and shiny, approximately 4 inches long and 2 1/2 inches wide, and the corollas are off-white and appear at every node. The flowering period begins 50 days after sowing and continues until the first frost. The pods are pendant, vary between 3 to 6 inches long, and 2 to 3 inches wide, are conical or truncated, and have indented shoulders. Immature pods are dark green, maturing to either red or brown, and the dried pods are a very dark reddish brown, nearly black. They are fairly mild, ranging from 1,000 to 1,500 SHU.
Red poblano pod. Photograph by Harald Zoschke. Used with permission.
This variety is one of the most popular peppers grown in Mexico, where about 37,000 acres of it are under cultivation. The ancho/poblano varieties grow well in the US but only about 150 acres are planted. Growers in the eastern US reported that their plants grown in Wharton, New Jersey, topped 4 feet and needed to be staked to keep them from toppling over. These plants produced well, but the pods never matured to the red stage before the end of the growing season. The usual growing period is 100 to 120 days, and the yield is about 15 pods per plant, although there are reports of up to 30 pods per plant.
Fresh poblanos are roasted and peeled, then preserved by canning or freezing. They are often stuffed to make chiles rellenos. The dried pods can be stored in airtight containers for months, or they can be ground into a powder. Anchos are commonly used in sauces called moles.
Jalapeño
This chile was named after the city of Xalapa in Veracruz, Mexico, where it is no longer commercially grown. This chile pepper is a pod type of Capsicum annuum. Jalapeños usually grow from 2 1/2 to 3 feet tall. Jalapeños have a compact single stem or upright multibranched spreading habit. The leaves are light to dark green and measure about 3 inches long and 2 inches wide. The flower corollas are white with no spots. The pods, which are conical and cylindrical, are pendant and measure about 2 to 3 i
nches long and 1 inch wide. They are green (occasionally sunlight will cause purpling), maturing to red, and measure between 2,500 and 10,000 SHU. The brown streaks, or “corking,” on the pods are desirable in Mexico but not so in the US.
In Mexico, commercial cultivation measures approximately 40,000 acres in three main agricultural zones: the Lower Papaloapan River Valley in the states of Veracruz and Oaxaca, northern Veracruz, and the area around Delicias, Chihuahua. The later region grows the American jalapeños, which are processed and exported into the US. Approximately 60 percent of the Mexican jalapeño crop is used for processing, 20 percent for fresh consumption, and 20 percent in production of chipotle chiles, smoked jalapeños.
In the United States, approximately 5,500 acres are under cultivation, with Texas the leading state for jalapeño production, followed by New Mexico. Home gardeners should remember that the US varieties of jalapeños flourish better in semiarid climates—ones with dry air combined with irrigation. If jalapeños are planted in hot and humid zones in the US during the summer, the yield decreases, and so Mexican varieties should be grown. The growing period is 70 to 80 days, and the yield is about 25 to 35 pods per plant. Recommended Mexican varieties are típico and peludo; recommended US varieties are early jalapeño (hot) and ‘TAM Mild Jalapeño I.’ Jalapeños are one of the most famous chile peppers. They are instantly recognizable and a considerable mythology has sprung up about them, particularly in Texas. The impetus for the popularity of jalapeños starts from a combination of their unique taste, their heat, and their continued use as a snack food.
Green and red jalapeño pods. Photograph by Harald Zoschke. Used with permission.
In 1956, Newsweek magazine published a story on a pepper-eating contest held in the Bayou Teche country of Louisiana, near the home of the famous Tabasco Sauce. The article rated the jalapeño as “the hottest pepper known,” more fiery than the “green tabasco” or “red cayenne.” Thus the Tex-Mex chile was launched as the perfectly pungent pepper for jalapeño-eating contests, which have proliferated all over the country.
Many jalapeños are used straight out of the garden in salsas. Others are pickled in escabeche and sold to restaurants and food services for sale in their salad bars. Jalapeños are processed as “nacho slices,” and “nacho rings” that are served over nachos, one of the most popular snack foods in arenas and ball parks. Jalapeños are commonly used in commercial salsas and picante sauces, which make up a large percentage of the imports from Mexico.
recipes
Peruvian mixed ceviche. Photograph by Daniel San Martin. iStock.
PICO DE GALLO SALSA
yield
6 servings
heat scale
medium
This universal salsa—also known as salsa fria, salsa cruda, salsa fresca, salsa Mexicana, and salsa picante—is served all over Mexico and often shows up with nontraditional ingredients such as canned tomatoes, bell peppers, or spices like oregano. Here is the most authentic version. Remember that everything in it should be as fresh as possible, and the vegetables must be hand-chopped. Never, never use a blender or food processor. Pico de gallo (“rooster’s beak” for its “sharpness”) is best when the tomatoes come from the garden, not from the supermarket. It can be used as a dip for chips, or for spicing up fajitas and other Southwestern specialties. Note: It requires advance preparation and will keep for only a day or two in the refrigerator.
4
serrano or jalapeño chiles, seeds and stems removed, chopped fine (or more for a hotter salsa)
2
large ripe tomatoes, finely chopped
1
medium onion, chopped fine
¼
cup minced fresh cilantro
2
tablespoons vinegar
2
tablespoons vegetable oil
Combine all ingredients in a large bowl, mix well, and let the salsa sit, covered, for at least an hour to blend the flavors.
PERUVIAN MIXED SEAFOOD CEVICHE
yield
4 servings
heat scale
medium
This particular ceviche is spicy because of the addition of a fair number of crushed ajís or whatever dried chiles you have available. The use of corn and sweet potatoes signals this dish as being very typically Peruvian. Serve it as an entrée for lunch or dinner on those hot and sweltering days of summer. Note: This recipe requires advance preparation.
¾
cup fresh lime juice
¾
cup fresh lemon juice
3
dried ají chiles, seeds and stems removed, crushed in a mortar, or substitute 2 New Mexican chiles (mild) or 6 piquins (hot)
1
clove garlic, minced
1
large red onion, sliced paper thin
1
teaspoon salt
¼
teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½
pound white fish fillets, such as catfish, cut into 1-inch pieces
1
pound cleaned shellfish (clams, oysters, mussels, or a mix)
1
teaspoon paprika (optional)
1
tablespoon chopped fresh parsley, Italian preferred
3
sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch-thick slices
3
ears of fresh corn, cleaned and cut into 2-inch-thick slices
4
Bibb lettuce leaves
Combine all the ingredients except the potatoes, corn, and lettuce in a large ceramic bowl, mix well, cover tightly, and refrigerate for 3 to 5 hours. If the citrus juice doesn’t cover the fish, add more.
Just before serving, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, and drop in the sweet potatoes and boil for 10 minutes. Then add the rounds of corn to the pot and boil for another 10 minutes. Drain the vegetables thoroughly.
Drain the fish in a colander to remove the marinade, and arrange the fish on the lettuce on 4 dinner plates. Garnish with the sweet potatoes and the rounds of corn.
CARNE EN JOCÓN
(BEEF IN TOMATO AND CHILE SAUCE)
yield
6 servings
heat scale
medium
This spicy beef dish is found throughout Guatemala; it is a famous and traditional favorite that is usually served with hot cooked rice. Mexican green tomatoes, called tomatillos, are available at Latin American markets and even in some chain supermarkets. The tomatillos add an interesting taste dimension with a hint of lemon and herbs.
3 to 4
tablespoons vegetable oil
1
cup chopped onion
2
cloves garlic, minced
1
bell pepper, seeded and chopped
2
fresh jalapeño chiles, seeds and stems removed, chopped
3
pounds boneless beef, cut into 1-inch cubes
½
teaspoon salt
¼
teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
10
ounces fresh tomatillos, husks removed, and diced; or substitute a 10-ounce can of tomatillos
3
tomatoes, peeled and chopped
1
bay leaf
¼
teaspoon ground cloves
1
teaspoon oregano
¾
cup beef stock
2
tortillas
Water for soaking
Heat the oil in a heavy casserole and sauté the onion, garlic, and the peppers. Push the mixture to one side of the casserole, and add the beef and brown it lightly. Mix the meat and the sautéed onion, and add the remaining ingredients, except the tortillas and water.
Bring the mixture to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, cover, and gently simmer for 2 hours.
Soak the tortillas in cold water for a few minutes. Squeeze the water out and finely cru
mble the tortillas into the beef. Stir the crumbled tortillas into the beef and simmer for a few minutes until the meat mixture thickens.
CHILES ANCHOS CAPONES (STUFFED SEEDLESS ANCHO CHILES)
yield
8 servings
heat scale
medium
The word capon translates as “castrated” but in this case merely means seedless. Yes, dried chiles such as anchos and pasillas can be stuffed, but they must be softened in hot water first. They have an entirely different flavor than their greener, more vegetable-like versions. Lula Bertán served this dish to me in Mexico City during the shooting of episode 3 of my video documentary, Heat Up Your Life. It’s on YouTube. Unfortunately, that particular cooking sequence was cut in the final edit of the show, but Lula cooks several other dishes.
10
ancho chiles
1
quart hot water
2
pounds queso añejo or Romano cheese, grated
