15th July.
It has to be admitted – I LOVE Juan-les-Pins at Jazz Festival time. Oh, the crowds and the tourists are a nightmare – but the atmosphere is amazing. I’ve been out and about despite the heat, taking photos, making notes and getting lots of ideas for my Jessica’s Jaunts column.
It’s like how I imagine New Orleans to be, down here during the day. Lots of unexpected parades through town as musicians wander the streets, playing and singing to locals and holidaymakers. A real carnival atmosphere. Great fun. I’m a complete convert to jazz – especially that of the thirties and forties. I wish I’d thought to tell Bella to come down, she’d have loved it.
16th July.
Nino was subdued when he knocked on my door promptly at seven o’clock tonight. When I remarked he seemed a bit quiet, he shrugged and said he’d spent the afternoon with Eliosa talking about family problems. I assumed by that he meant Paola his wife and the state of his marriage had been part of the discussions, so I didn’t say anything.
We walked through Juan to a posh restaurant in the shadow of the old Provencal hotel, not too far from the Pinède Gould where the concert was held. By the time we were seated at a table by the window he’d cheered up and was making me laugh with a story about one of the more eccentric guests on board the boat last week.
The food was delicious – wanted to sneak a menu out as a souvenir but as they came in huge red-leather bound folders I couldn’t. Going to have to experiment next time I cook duck and try to replicate the delicious spicy skin. For dessert I opted for my favourite, tiramisu, which was even better than the one I’d had in Ventimiglia – even Nino agreed it was one of the best he’d tasted, but still not as good as the one his mother makes.
As for the concert afterwards – all I can say is it was AMAZING! I hadn’t heard of the main jazz group but Nino said they were big in the states, and after hearing them I can believe it. Their singer, looking and sounding like a young Ella Fitzgerald, sang the old classics and several original numbers written by the saxophonist.
It was late when the concert finished and we began to walk slowly back through Juan, hand-in-hand. Near Jacques’ bar, we stopped and watched a black woman dressed in a barely-there costume, where sixteen bananas made up the skirt, entertaining the crowd with a risque performance. It was like nothing I’ve ever seen before. I made a mental note when Nino whispered to me ‘She’s doing an excellent Josephine Baker impression,’ to look up the name. I’d never heard of her.
I sort of assumed Nino would come in for a coffee when we got back to my apartment, but no.
‘Have to get back to the yacht. I’ll ring you in the week.’
‘Thanks for this evening. I’ve really enjoyed myself,’ I said.
‘So have I,’ he said and leant in to give me a gentle, unexpected kiss. ‘Now I leave. Paola, she cheat on me – but me never on her. Even when I’m tempted.’ And with that he was gone leaving me staring after him – speechless.
25th July.
Katie rang me this evening. Rang not texted. The wine bar where she’s been working is closing at the end of the month so she was wondering if she could come and spend the whole of August with me instead of just the planned fortnight. Bit my tongue to stop myself making a sarcastic retort and said, ‘Of course you can.’
Ben has apparently agreed to pay her return airfare. There is the slight problem of Bella coming to stay in the middle of the month but I can work round that, so I didn’t mention it to Katie.
‘Let me have the flight details and I’ll meet you,’ I said. ‘I’ll come over on the bus and we’ll take a taxi back.
‘Great. And Mum, thanks.’
She sounded like the old Katie, so hopefully she’s forgiven me for taking this gap year and “acting out of character” as she accused me months ago.
She can have the spare bedroom until Bella arrives, and then one of them will have to either have the twin bed in my room or the put-you-up in the sitting room.
Think I’ll behave like the French and take the whole of August off as I doubt I’ll get much writing done – another reason to get on and organise a few more features for the OB.
26th July.
Nino phoned to say he’s off to Sardinia with the yacht for three or four weeks and to look after myself.
Meteo France are issuing warnings about thunderstorms over the next couple of days. Not keen on them but if it clears the air it will be good. So muggy at the moment. Taking Eliosa to the hospital tomorrow morning to have her cast removed. Hope the storms hold off until we get back.
28th July.
Well, Eliosa’s cast is off but her arm is very weak and as it’s her right arm there is no way she is strong enough yet to hold Brucie’s lead and walk him. Not that she shows any signs of wanting to do so. She seems more than happy to let me keep doing it. The physiotherapy starts tomorrow which I’m guessing is going to be quite difficult and painful for her, so I took her out for lunch today to try and cheer her up.
We’d just got back to the apartments when the storm hit.
AUGUST
Well that was quite a storm.
Simultaneous lightning and ear-splitting thunderclaps, hailstones bigger and harder than dried peas – bouncing off pavements and shattering windscreens. The drains on the bord de mer couldn’t cope and traffic ground to a halt with people trapped in their cars in monsoon-like downpours as the road flooded. It went on for hours. I’ve never experienced a storm like it.
By the time I went to bed it had calmed down, but I could still see flashes of lightning on the horizon out across the bay. When I ventured out with Brucie the next morning, it had stopped raining and the sun was shining but oh, the mess everywhere. Sand and gravel in the road, rubbish washed up on the beach and people sweeping water out of flooded shops. I didn’t go as far as the marina but Eliosa said she’d heard from friends with boats there that there was a lot of damage. The internet and the phone have been down for days due to the storm. The electricity went off for several hours too.
The storm cleared the air for a mere twenty-four hours and now it’s nudging the high thirties again. It’s amazing how quickly the sun and the heat banish memories of bad weather. Three days later and it’s as if it had never happened.
I keep wondering how Nino is. He should have reached the safety of a Sardinian harbour before the storm broke. Maybe Eliosa will hear in a day or two.
2nd August.
So glad the storm happened before Katie arrived – she gets hysterical in thunderstorms. Always has. I met her at the airport yesterday afternoon and now she’s ensconced in the spare room.
Katie seems much like her old self thankfully – not that we’ve had much of a chance to talk yet. At least she gave me a hug in the arrivals hall. She was quiet on the way home in the taxi but did say she loved the look of Juan-les-Pins beach and gosh, wasn’t it hot?
Eliosa kindly invited us up for supper last night – just salad-y things from one of the local delicatessens and lots of Prosecco. She said she was looking forward to meeting Katie and it would save me the bother of organising anything for the first evening.
I noticed a beautiful arrangement of roses placed on one of her small tables as we went through to the terrace.
‘From one of your many admirers?’ I teased.
‘Jamie brought them for me,’ she said. ‘I bumped into him and his son Matthew in Antibes yesterday and invited them to join us. I thought Katie might like some young company.’
The same thought had occurred to me but I hadn’t got around to ringing Jamie. ‘Good idea,’ I said. ‘Thank you.’
Katie and Matthew were soon swapping college and uni horror stories, and by the time we said ‘Goodnight’ they were firm friends.
As we let ourselves into my apartment I said, ‘I thought tomorrow morning I’d show you around Antibes, have lunch somewhere and then in the afternoon go to the beach?’ I was of course hoping at some point we would have that mother and daughter talk I was d
esperate to have, to clear the air, but didn’t dare voice that hope.
‘Seeing Antibes and having lunch sounds great Mum, but can we skip the beach? Matthew wants me to go paragliding with him in the afternoon and then in the evening he’s taking me to meet some mates. Night. Sleep tight.’ A kiss on the cheek and she was in her room with the door firmly closed.
Less than twenty-four hours here and already a social life!
9th August.
Katie’s certainly taken to the Riviera lifestyle. Eliosa introducing her to Matt on her first day here was a real stroke of genius on her part. He’s introducing her to lots of his friends – not to mention activities. In one week she’s seen and done more down here than I did in my first three months. Matt is being a good influence on her I think. She’s still cooler towards me than I’d wish, but she’s definitely more like the old Katie.
10th August.
Had a lovely postcard from Nino this morning. He made Sardinia a day before the storm broke over there. Said he hoped Katie’s visit was going well and he was looking forward to meeting her when he got back – which might be earlier than expected.
As I pinned it to the cork noticeboard in the kitchen, Katie, slinging a rucksack over her shoulders, glanced at it – and of course, wanted to know who Nino was.
‘Eliosa’s nephew with a scary father,’ I told her.
‘Why’s he sending you cards?’
I shrugged. ‘It’s what friends do. Aren’t you sending any to your friends while you’re down here?’
‘No. Might put a couple of photos up on Facebook.’
‘How about your dad? Let him know you’re having a good holiday?’
Katie shook her head. ‘Doubt that he cares. Too busy arguing with Sam. Right I’m off.’
‘Where are you going today?’
‘Gorges du Verdon, canoeing with Matt and the gang. Might find somewhere up there to stay for a few days. I’ll ring you if we do.’
A fleeting kiss on the cheek as I said, ‘Have fun,’ and she was gone. Just like old times back home. And we still haven’t had a proper talk. There are one or two things I need to make her understand – like it was Ben, not me, who called time on our marriage – but otherwise we seem to be friends again.
Sometime in the next week or two we’ll have to talk about what happens in September. About where she’s going to live when she goes back, for a start. She hasn’t mentioned the flat share Bella said she was looking into.
12th August.
Eliosa’s arm is much stronger now and she says it’s about time she took control of her life again, so I’m no longer on Brucie walking duty. I did offer to go with her for a few days just in case she couldn’t manage, but she refused to let me.
It’s nice to see her out and about again. I was beginning to worry that she’d never be the same but it looks like she’s finally getting back some of her old zest for life. Have to say, I’ve quite missed the walks the last couple of days.
15th August.
Bella elected to take the twin bed in my room rather than the put-you-up when she arrived yesterday. I did offer to change the sheets so she could sleep in the spare room – Katie never seems to be here at the moment. She’s either camping up at the Gorges du Verdon, sailing down to St. Tropez, or dossing down on a friend’s floor. She’s certainly seeing the South of France. Jealous, moi? Of course.
Bella of course thought it was hysterical when I told her who Katie was seeing, last night as we got ready for bed. ‘Sort of thought you and Jamie might get it together actually. Be a bit awkward now, wouldn’t it? Though you could end up having a double wedding.’
‘And you’ve had too much rosé,’ I said. ‘Right, lights out,’ and I switched off the bedside table lamp.
16th August.
Eliosa and Lotta are coming in this evening for a drink and a few nibbles to say hello to Bella. Hoping Katie will be around but not counting on it. She seems to be spending all her time with Matt.
I rang Jamie the other day – just to chat and to try and sound him out about what was going on with his son and my daughter. Got his answering machine though, so had to leave a message inviting him to come over tonight rather than getting the chance to ask any crucial questions. If he does come this evening, I’ll try to find a quiet moment to grill him about what’s going on between Katie and Matt. Holiday fling or serious?
17th August.
Lots of fun last night. Jamie didn’t turn up though.
20th August.
Am so glad I decided to take August off and wrote a few features up front. I’ve barely had time to glance at my e-mails this month let alone write anything. I’ve taken lots more photos though, while I’ve been out and about with Bella – got enough ideas to keep me going until Christmas.
Just realised my Shirley Valentine year will be up then. Can’t believe I’ve only got four months left.
The cork noticeboard in the kitchen is filling up with various views of Sardinia that Nino has sent me. Would love to visit one day, it looks so beautiful. His last postcard said he’d see me in a week.
Katie’s still seeing a lot of Matt. He hired a scooter yesterday and they’ve buzzed off to explore the Italian coast for a few days. I still haven’t managed to have a chat with Jamie about whether he thinks it’s serious or simply a holiday romance – one that will finish when they both return to the UK.
23rd August.
Bella and I are taking a picnic lunch over to the Ille de Lerins today. Having looked across the bay at them every day since I’ve been here, it’s about time I visited.
Later…
I can’t tell you how spiritually uplifting I found today. A fifteen minute boat ride across the bay and we were in another world. A world I wasn’t expecting to find on the glitzy Cote d’Azur.
So many private yachts were moored between the two islands as our tourist boat made its way to the St. Honorat landing stage, I expected the place to be overrun with sightseers. Amazingly, it wasn’t.
Oh, the area around the Abbaye and the souvenir shop was bustling when we did the expected tour of the Abbaye grounds and the chapel. The monks were reaching the end of their morning service as we silently walked past fragrant flowerbeds in the cloisters towards the chapel. Bella and I stood listening as ancient chants filled the air, before dying away as the monks slowly filed past the silent crowds on the way to resume their everyday chores.
Walking away from the crowds, down a quiet lane winding its way around the rim of the island, was when the sheer serenity of the place hit me. It was unbelievably tranquil. It truly felt like stepping back to another, simpler, age.
All the other visitors seemed to have stayed near the restaurant and shop, or disappeared from view onto the secluded beach around the headland. Occasionally as we walked, a monk would pass us, head bowed and deep in thought. We passed other monks in fields tending the vines that would produce the grapes for their highly prized wines and liqueurs.
We ate our picnic sitting on the wall by the old medieval fortress monastery that literally sits in the water. I could have stayed there for hours, just listening to the sea lapping on the shingle, but Bella wanted to buy some wine from the shop before catching the boat back to Cannes, so we wandered back and indulged ourselves.
Later, on the boat, watching the islands getting smaller in the distance, I made myself a promise. I would return to this wonderful island paradise as soon as possible.
25th August.
Thank God August is nearly over! I mean, it’s been wonderful having Katie here, Bella too, but I’m so looking forward to getting back into my normal routine. Having the apartment to myself and not having to worry about what other people are doing. I know how selfish that sounds, but I’ve got out of the habit of continually having people around since I arrived down here. I’ve discovered the new me not only likes but also needs her own space.
Actually, I’ve been on my own for the last twenty-four hours and it’s been bliss. Katie and Matt have
gone with some of their mates to one of the posh hotels in Cannes for a farewell do and Bella, well Bella is spending the night with Jacques somewhere inland.
She hummed and hawed for hours before she agreed to go, though. Most unlike Bella. It wasn’t until he showed her the notice he was preparing to put on the door – ‘Closure Exceptionell’ – that she realised he was closing the bar for a day to spend time with her. That he seriously likes her there is no doubt.
The villa has been quiet too. Lotta has gone to Sweden to see her parents, and Eliosa has taken herself and Brucie off to Menton for a little holiday. She’s due back in a couple of days. Think there is a locum vet in the ground floor apartment but haven’t come face-to-face with him yet. Don’t think there’s currently any yachties in the other apartment.
I did initially think of inviting Jamie over for supper, but when I rang he was just leaving to meet a friend on the Italian border so he couldn’t make it. In the end I just opened a bottle of Prosecco and sat on my terrace enjoying the solitude, thinking how lucky I am and planning the end of holiday party both Katie and Bella say we should have.
They’ve both promised to help with preparations, so I’ll send them off with a long list to the nearest supermarche tomorrow. And instructions to buy several bottles of champagne. Should go with them really, but the terrace needs a bit of a going over and I’ve got this new string of fairy lights I fancy looping around, so I’ll do that while they’re out shopping.
You Had Me At Bonjour Page 7
