2. For Dortmund: http://www.fairtrade-deutschland.de/mitmachen/kampagnen-von-transfair/gelungene-kampagnen/fairtrade-kampagne/joachim-krol-in-dortmund/?tx_jppageteaser_pi1%5BbackId%5D=534; for Schalke: http://schalkespieltfair.de/. ‘Fairtrade Labelling Organizations International, Growing Stronger Together: Annual Report 2009–10’; www.transfair.org/top/news 4 March 2011; and Jean-Marie Krier, Fair Trade 2007: New Facts and Figures from an Ongoing Success Story (Culemborg, 2008).
3. Gavin Fridell, Fair-trade Coffee: The Prospects and Pitfalls of Market-driven Social Justice (Toronto, 2007); and Gavin Fridell, ‘Fair Trade and Neoliberalism: Assessing Emerging Perspectives’, in: Latin American Perspectives 33, no. 6, 2006: 8–28.
4. Quoted in Luigi Ceccarini, ‘I luoghi dell’impegno: tra botteghe del mondo e supermarket’, in: Paola Rebughini & Roberta Sassatelli, eds., Le nuove frontiere dei consumi (Verona, 2008), 150, 153, my translation.
5. See 171–3 above.
6. The Norges chain carries some fair-trade products: http://www.fairtrade.at/fileadmin/user_upload/PDFs/Fuer_Studierende/FromBeanToCup_2005.pdf?PHPSESSID=8b44ffe3cef7de0cf13d8cca979c90f8.
7. Latin American producers had already agreed on export quotas in 1958. The 1962 agreement, which included the United States, used export quotas to stabilize the price of coffee. It was amended in 1968 with a special fund to prevent coffee from being overplanted. The agreement collapsed in 1989 as consuming countries turned to cheap coffee outside the cartel. For a short overview, see Michael Barratt Brown, Fair Trade: Reform and Realities in the International Trading System (London, 1993), ch. 7.
8. Otto, ‘Otto Group Trend Studie 2011 (3. Studie zum ethischen Konsum: Verbraucher–Vertrauen)’ (2011).
9. Magnus Boström et al., Political Consumerism: Its Motivations, Power and Conditions in the Nordic Countries and Elsewhere (Copenhagen, 2005); and Unni Kjærnes, Mark Harvey & Alan Warde, Trust in Food: A Comparative and Institutional Analysis (Hampshire, 2007).
10. Mel Young editorial, New Consumer, May/June 2005, 7.
11. See www.brilliantearth.com; http://www.gepa.de/produkte/kaffee-tee/kaffee.html.
12. Kathryn Wheeler, Fair Trade and the Citizen-consumer (Basingstoke, 2012), 79–81.
13. Council of Europe: http://www.coe.int/t/dg3/socialpolicies/socialcohesiondev/forum/2004monatzederschulze_en.asp.
14. Friedrich Nietzsche, Thus Spake Zarathustra.
15. Joan C. Tronto, Moral Boundaries: A Political Argument for an Ethic of Care (New York, 1994); and Andrew Sayer, ‘Moral Economy and Political Economy’, in: Studies in Political Economy 61, 2000: 79–104.
16. Amanda Berlan, ‘Making or Marketing a Difference? An Anthropological Examination of the Marketing of Fair-trade Cocoa from Ghana’ in: Geert De Neve et al., ‘Hidden Hands in the Market’, in: Research in Economic Anthropology 28, 2008: 171–94 171–94; see also: Michael K. Goodman, ‘Reading Fair Trade: Political Ecological Imaginary and the Moral Economy of Fair-trade Goods’, Political Geography 23, 2004: 891–915.
17. John Wilkinson & Gilberto Mascarenhas ‘The Making of the Fair-trade Movement in the South: The Brazilian Case’ in: Laura T. Raynolds, L. Murray Douglas & John Wilkinson, eds., Fair Trade: The Challenges of Transforming Globalization (London, 2007); for the size of local markets, see Fair-trade Facts and Figures 2010, figures 3.8–3.10: http://www.fairtrade.de/cms/media//pdf/Facts_&_Figures_2010.pdf.
18. Luc Boltanski, Distant Suffering: Morality, Media and Politics (Cambridge, 1999).
19. Wheeler, Fair Trade, 173.
20. Around €140 in 2011 for humanitarian aid compared to €3 per person on fair-trade retail sales (2009); compare Deutscher Spendenrat, Bilanz des Helfens, 2011, with Fair-trade Facts and Figures 2010, fig 2.8.
21. Patrick De Pelsmacker, Liesbeth Driesen & Glenn Rayp, ‘Do Consumers Care about Ethics? Willingness to Pay for Fair-trade Coffee’, in: Journal of Consumer Affairs 39, no. 2, 2005: 363–85.
22. Anthony Giddens, Modernity and Self-identity (Cambridge, 1991); Sarah Lyon, ‘Evaluating Fair-trade Consumption: Politics, Defetishization and Producer Participation’, in: International Journal of Consumer Studies 30, no. 5, 2006: 452–64.
23. Micheletti, Stolle & Hoogh, ‘Zwischen Markt und Zivilgesellschaft: Politischer Konsum als bürgerliches Engagement’; Boström et al., Political Consumerism; and Wheeler, Fair Trade, chs. 5 and 7.
24. Compare Thomas L. Haskell, ‘Capitalism and the Origins of the Humanitarian Sensibility, Part 1’, in: American Historical Review 90, no. 2, 1985: 339–61, and ‘Capitalism and the Origins of the Humanitarian Sensibility, Part 2’, in: American Historical Review 90, no. 3, 1985: 547–66; with Richard Huzzey, ‘The Moral Geography of British Anti-slavery Responsibilities’, in: Transactions of the Royal Historical Society (6th series) 22, 2012: 111–39, who stresses the limits of the ‘free produce’ and notes that even among British abolitionists themselves, very few followed Joseph Sturge’s example and ordered ethically unpolluted underwear.
25. J. A. Hobson, The Evolution of Modern Capitalism (London, rev. edn 1897), 368–80.
26. Constantine, ‘ “Bringing the Empire Alive”: The Empire Marketing Board and Imperial Propaganda, 1926–33’; and Trentmann, Free Trade Nation, 228–40.
27. Final Report of Mixed Committee of the League of Nations on the Relation of Nutrition to Health, Agriculture and Economic Policy (Geneva, 1937); and Frank Trentmann, ‘Coping with Shortage: The Problem of Food Security and Global Visions of Coordination, c.1890s–1950’, in: Food and Conflict in Europe in the Age of the Two World Wars, eds. Frank Trentmann & Flemming Just (Basingstoke, 2006), 13–48.
28. 1955, ‘Co-operative Notes for Speakers on the Food and Agriculture Organization’, quoted in Trentmann, ‘Coping with Shortage’, 39–40.
29. John Toye and Richard Toye, ‘The Origins and Interpretation of the Prebisch–Singer Thesis’, in: History of Political Economy 35, no. 3, 2003: 437–67.
30. The journalist Dick Scherpenzeel had called for dedicated shops to sell sugar at fair prices at the 1968 United Nations Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD) in New Delhi.
31. For Schorndorf, see: http://www.elmundo.de/neu/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=62&Itemid=64; for Hildesheim, see the newsletter El Puente Informiert 2010, 44.
32. Populorum progressio, full text at: http://www.newadvent.org/library/docs_pa06pp.htm.
33. 1970, quoted in Werner Balsen & Karl Rössel, Hoch die internationale Solidarität: Zur Geschichteder Dritte-Welt-Bewegung inder Bundesrepublik (Cologne, 1986), 284.
34. Hans Beerends, De Derde Wereldbeweging: Geschiedenis en toekomst (Utrecht, 1993), 126–30.
35. Claudia Olejniczak, Die Dritte-Welt-Bewegung in Deutschland: Konzeptionelle und organisatorische Strukturmerkmale einer neuen sozialen Bewegung (Wiesbaden, 1999), pp. 140–41, notes that by the end of the 1980s non-governmental organizations received 14 per cent of their funding from the state.
36. Arthur Simon, Bread for the World (New York, 1975), quoted at 56–7, 98–101.
37. Matt Anderson, ‘Cost of a Cup of Tea: Fair Trade and the British Co-operative Movement, c. 1960–2000’, in: Consumerism and the Co-operative Movement in Modern British History, eds. Lawrence Black & Nicole Robertson, (Manchester, 2009).
38. Thompson, ‘The Moral Economy of the English Crowd in the Eighteenth Century’. Compare: Trentmann, ‘Before “Fair Trade”: Empire, Free Trade, and the Moral Economies of Food in the Modern World’.
39. Sarah Lyon, ‘Fairtrade Coffee and Human Rights in Guatemala’, in: Journal of Consumer Policy 30, no. 3, 2007: 241–61.
40. Amanda Berlan, ‘Making or Marketing a Difference?’ in: De Neve et al., ‘Hidden Hands in the Market’.
41. A. Tallontire et al., Diagnostic Study of FLO, DFID (2001).
42. See www.unserland.info and ‘Network Unser Land’ brochures.
43. La Repubblica, 24 Oct. 2009.
44. James Richard Kirwan, ‘The Reconfiguration of Producer–Consumer Relations within
Alternative Strategies in the UK Agro-food System: The Case of Farmers’ markets’, unpubl. PhD thesis, University of Gloucestershire, 2003, 37–8.
45. Renée Shaw Hughner et al., ‘Who are Organic Food Consumers? A Compilation and Review of Why People Purchase Organic Food’, in: Journal of Consumer Behaviour 6, no. 2–3, 2007: 94–110.
46. Petrini, Slow Food: Le ragioni del gusto. In fact, most people’s diet was far more monotonous in the centuries before the supermarket and modern food science than after: see now Rachel Laudan, Cuisine and Empire: Cooking in World History (Berkeley, CA, 2013).
47. Jose Harris, ed., Tönnies: Community and Civil Society (Cambridge, 2001); the German original appeared in 1887.
48. Daniel Miller, ‘Coca-Cola: A Black Sweet Drink from Trinidad’, in: Daniel Miller, ed., Material Cultures: Why Some Things Matter (London, 1998), ch. 8.; and Wilk, Home Cooking in the Global Village.
49. http://www.bmelv.de/SharedDocs/Downloads/Ernaehrung/Kennzeichnung/Regionalsiegel-Gutachten.pdf?__blob=publicationFile, 13; www.unser-norden.de.
50. Guardian, 27 Feb. 2013.
51. Local Government Regulation, A Local Authority Survey: ‘Buying Food with Geographical Descriptions – How ‘Local’ is ‘Local’? Jan. 2011; http://www.devon.gov.uk/lgr_-_how_local_is_ local_report_-_february_2011.pdf.
52. Michèle de la Pradelle, Market Day in Provence, trans. Amy Jacobs (Chicago, 2006); Keith Spiller, ‘Farmers’ Markets as Assemblage Social Relations: Social Practice and the Producer/Consumer Nexus in the North-east of England’, unpubl. PhD thesis, University of Durham, 2008.
53. Kirwan, ‘Reconfiguration of Producer–Consumer Relations’, 155.
54. 2003, quoted in Boström et al., Political Consumerism, 477; I have slightly rephrased the quote for the sake of grammar.
55. Mari Niva, Johanna Mäkelä & Jouni Kujala, ‘ “Trust Weakens as Distance Grows”: Finnish Results of the Omiard Consumer Focus Group Study on Organic Foods’, in Working Papers 83: National Consumer Research Centre, 2004.
56. Patricia L. Maclachlan, ‘Global Trends vs. Local Traditions: Genetically Modified Foods and Contemporary Consumerism in the United States, Japan, and Britain’, in: Garon & Maclachlan, eds., Ambivalent Consumer, esp. 248–50; see also: Maclachlan, Consumer Politics in Post-war Japan: The Institutional Boundaries of Citizen Activism.
57. See http://www.retegas.org.
58. See: http://www.consiglio.regione.fvg.it/consreg/documenti/approfondimenti/%5B20091203_103833%5D_849178.pdf, my translation.
59. See FiBL (Forschungsinstitut für biologischen Landbau), ‘Entwicklung von Kriterien für ein bundesweites Regionalsiegel: Gutachten im Auftrag des Bundesministeriums für Ernährung, Landwirtschaft und Verbraucherschutz’ (Frankfurt, 2012), at: http://www.bmelv.de/SharedDocs/Downloads/Ernaehrung/Kennzeichnung/Regionalsiegel-Gutachten.pdf?__blob=publicationFile.
60. See 169 above.
61. E. J. Hobsbawm & T. O. Ranger, eds., The Invention of Tradition (Cambridge, 1983).
62. European Commission, ‘Geographical Indications and Traditional Specialities’, see documents at http://ec.europa.eu/agriculture/quality/schemes and http://euroalert.net/en/news.aspx?idn=11727. M. Schramm, Konsum und regionale Identität in Sachsen, 1880–2000: Die Regionalisierung von Konsumgütern im Spannungsfeld von Nationalisierung und Globalisierung (Stuttgart, 2002); and La Repubblica, 13 Feb. 2013, 29–31.
63. http://instoresnow.walmart.com/Food-Center-locally-grown.aspx.
64. Susanne Freidberg, Fresh: A Perishable History (Cambridge, MA, 2009).
65. Quoted in Kirwan, ‘Reconfiguration of Producer–Consumer Relations’, at 155.
66. De la Pradelle, Market Day in Provence, 111–13.
67. Lois Stanford, ‘The Role of Ideology in New Mexico’s CSA (Community-supported Agriculture)’, in: Wilk, ed., Fast Food/Slow Food: The Cultural Economy of the Global Food System, ch. 12.
68. Quoted from Manuel Gamio, The Mexican Immigrant: His Life-story (Chicago, 1931), 68.
69. Manuel Gamio, Mexican Immigration to the United States (Chicago, 1930), 67–9 and appendix V.
70. World Bank, Migration and Development Brief, no. 19 (20 Nov. 2012).
71. Alexia Grosjean, ‘Returning to Belhelvie, 1593–1875’, in: Emigrant Homecomings: The Return Movement of Emigrants, 1600–2000, ed. Marjory Harper (Manchester, 2006), 216–32.
72. The figure here is the net gain from remittances, from which smaller outward flows have been deducted. See Magee & Thompson, Empire and Globalisation: Networks of People, Goods and Capital in the British World, c. 1850–1914, 97–105; and James Belich, Replenishing the Earth: The Settler Revolution and the Rise of the Anglo-world, 1783–1939 (Oxford, 2009), esp. 128, 189.
73. World Bank, World Development Report (Washington, DC, 1978), 11. The Economist, 28 April 2012: 65; World Bank, Global Remittances Working Group (GRWG), http://www.worldbank.org/en/topic/paymentsystemsremittances/brief/global-remittances-working-group; and J. A. Garçia, ‘Payment Systems Worldwide: A Snapshot’ (Washington, DC, World Bank, 2008).
74. Ian Goldin, Geoffrey Cameron & Meera Balarajan, Exceptional People: How Migration Shaped Our World and Will Define Our Future (Princeton, NJ, 2011); Dilip Ratha et al., ‘Leveraging Migration for Africa: Remittances, Skills and investments’ (Washington, DC, World Bank, 2011).
75. Douglas S. Massey, Return to Aztlan: The Social Process of International Migration from Western Mexico (Berkeley, CA, 1987), 220–31.
76. Massey, Return to Aztlan, table 8.1, 218.
77. Shahid Perwaiz, Pakistan, Home Remittances (Islamabad, 1979); see also his ‘Home Remittances’, Pakistan Economist, 19 Sept. 1979. Cf. A. G. Chandavarkar, ‘Use of Migrants’ Remittances in Labor-exporting Countries’, Finance and Development 17, no. 2, 1980: 36–9.
78. Ratha et al., ‘Leveraging Migration for Africa’, ch. 2. Richard H. Adams, ‘The Economic Uses and Impact of International Remittances in Rural Egypt’, in: Economic Development and Cultural Change 39, no. 4, 1991: 695–722; Richard H. Adams, Jr., ‘Remittances, Investment, and Rural Asset Accumulation in Pakistan’, in: Economic Development and Cultural Change 47, no. 1, 1998: 155–73; and Richard H. Adams & Alfredo Cuecuecha, ‘Remittances, Household Expenditure and Investment in Guatemala’, in: World Development 38, no. 11, 2010: 1626–41.
79. Richard H. Adams, Alfredo Cuecuecha & John M. Page, ‘Remittances, Consumption and Investment in Ghana’ (Washington, DC, World Bank, 2008). For methodological problems with earlier surveys, see also: J. Edward Taylor & Jorge Mora, ‘Does Migration Reshape Expenditures in Rural Households? Evidence from Mexico’, in: Policy Research Working Paper Series no. 3842 (Washington, DC, World Bank, 2006).
80. Ratha et al., ‘Leveraging Migration for Africa’.
81. Anita Chan, Richard Madsen & Jonathan Unger, eds., Chen Village: The Recent History of a Peasant Community in Mao’s China (Berkeley, CA, 1984/1992), 267–99.
82. Jeffery H. Cohen, ‘Remittance Outcomes and Migration: Theoretical Contests, Real Opportunities’, in: Studies in Comparative International Development 40, no. 1, 2005: 88–112.
83. Divya Praful Tolia-Kelly, ‘Iconographies of Diaspora: Refracted Landscapes and Textures of Memory of South Asian Women in London’ (PhD thesis, UCL, 2002).
84. Kathy Burrell, ‘Materializing the Border: Spaces of Mobility and Material Culture in Migration from Post-socialist Poland’, in: Mobilities 3, no. 3, 2008: 353–73.
85. Panikos Panayi, Spicing up Britain: The Multicultural History of British Food (London, 2008), 120.
86. Panayi, Spicing up Britain; Maren Möhring, Fremdes Essen: Die Geschichte der ausländischen Gastronomie in der Bundesrepublik Deutschland (Munich, 2012), pp. 63–6.
87. Isabella Beeton, Mrs Beeton’s Household Management (Ware, 1861/2006), 290–2, 451, 618–20.
88. Timothy J. Hatton & Jeffrey G. Williamson, The Age of Mass Migration: Causes and Economic Impact (New York, 1998).
89. Donna R. Gabaccia, We Are What We Eat: Ethnic Food and th
e Making of Americans (Cambridge, MA, 1998).
90. Phyllis H. Williams, South Italian Folkways in Europe and America: A Handbook for Social Workers, Visiting Nurses, School Teachers, and Physicians (New Haven, CT, 1938).
91. I follow here Hasia R. Diner, Hungering for America: Italian, Irish and Jewish Foodways in the Age of Migration (Cambridge, MA, 2001).
92. Diner, Hungering for America, 194–216; Gabaccia, We Are What We Eat, 104, 176ff.
93. For this, and the following, see Elizabeth Buettner, ‘Going for an Indian: South Asian Restaurants and the Limits of Multiculturalism in Britain’, in: Journal of Modern History 80, no. 4, 2008: 865–901; Möhring, Fremdes Essen, 254f.
94. Buettner, ‘Going for an Indian’; Steve Shaw, ‘Marketing Ethnoscapes as Spaces of Consumption: Banglatown – London’s Curry Capital’, in: Journal of Town and City Management 1, no. 4, 2011: 381–95.
95. Krishnendu Ray, The Migrant’s Table: Meals and Memories in Bengali-American Households (Philadelphia, 2004), appendix 3 for the menu, and 97 for the following.
96. Jitsuichi Masuoka, ‘Changing Food Habits of the Japanese in Hawaii’, in: American Sociological Review 10, no. 6, 1945: 759–65.
97. Möhring, Fremdes Essen, 253–70.
98. Till Manning, Die Italiengeneration: Stilbildung durch Massentourismus in den 1950er und 1960er Jahren (Göttingen, 2011).
99. Erik Millstone & Tim Lang, The Atlas of Food: Who Eats What, Where and Why? (Berkeley, CA, 2008), 54–5; K. Hammer, T. Gladis & A. Diederichsen, ‘In Situ and On-farm Management of Plant Genetic Resources’, in: European Journal of Agronomy 19, no. 4, 2003: 509–17; and Food and Agriculture Organization, ‘Biodiversity for Food and Agriculture: Contributing to Food Security and Sustainability in a Changing World’ (Rome, 2010).
100. Stephen Mennell, All Manners of Food: Eating and Tasting in England and France from the Middle Ages to the Present (Oxford, 1985), ch. 12.
101. Alan Warde, Consumption, Food and Taste: Culinary Antinomies and Commodity Culture (London, 1997).
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