by Gil Marks
5 to 6 servings
[PAREVE]
3 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil
2 medium onions, chopped
2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced
About 2 quarts water (or 3 quarts for a soup)
1 pound (2 1/3 cups) dried navy, cannellini, or other white beans, picked over, washed well, and drained
1 bay leaf
2 cups tomato sauce, or 1 pound (2½ cups) peeled, seeded, and chopped plum tomatoes and 1 tablespoon tomato paste
About 1 teaspoon table salt or 2 teaspoons kosher salt
Ground black pepper to taste
½ teaspoon ground cumin or pinch of sugar
Juice of 1 to 2 lemons (optional)
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or cilantro
1. In a heavy 5- to 6-quart pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and sauté until softened, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the water, beans, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, partially cover, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer until the beans are tender, about 2 hours. Drain off most of the cooking liquid. (For a soup, do not drain.)
2. Add the tomato sauce, salt, pepper, cumin, and, if using, lemon juice. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the flavors meld, about 20 minutes, or cover and bake in a 300-degree oven, without stirring, until most of the liquid is absorbed, about 2 hours. Discard the bay leaf and stir in the parsley.
Avocado
By the time the Spanish arrived in the New World, avocados (from the Aztec name, ahuacatl) were widely grown throughout Central America and the Caribbean. Montezuma introduced them to Hernando Cortés at a feast in 1519 and the conquistadors promptly shared this creamy fruit with the Spanish court. However, avocado was perhaps the last of the American produce brought by the conquistadors to find widespread acceptance in the Old World. In the United States, where they were known as alligator pears, avocados only gained importance following World War II.
There are about a dozen major varieties of avocado, possessing varying attributes. The most popular avocado in the United States and much of Europe is the Hass, introduced in 1926. The flesh is very rich, nutty, and creamy; the pebbly green skin turns black as it ripens. Hass, which softens evenly, is the preferred variety for guacamole, sauces, and soups. Fuerte, the most widely grown variety in the rest of the world, has a relatively smooth, bright green skin.
The avocado reached Israel in 1924; it was first planted at the Mikveh-Israel Agricultural School and was soon introduced to kibbutzim as well as home gardens. Commercial-scale production began in the early 1950s, and the avocado emerged as a national favorite and major export. In 1983, more than 2.5 million Israelis trees produced 7,200 tons of avocados and 80 percent of them were exported. Today, the world's leading avocado producers are Mexico, the United States, Chile, Spain, and Israel. Israelis adapted the fruit into various dishes, including avakado eem tachina (avocado dip) and marak avakado (avocado soup).
B
Baba Ghanouj
Baba ghanouj is a salad made from mashed roasted or broiled eggplant, tahini (sesame seed paste), and lemon juice.
Origin: Lebanon
Other names: baba ghanoush, badhinjin mutabbal, mutabbal, salat chatzilim.
Mashed eggplant salads are popular from western Africa through Russia, but arguably the most famous variation is baba ghanouj, a Lebanese puree made with two other popular, inexpensive Levantine ingredients—tahini and lemon juice. The salad is also sometimes accented with other local favorites, including olive oil, garlic, chopped onions, parsley, cumin, sumac, and cayenne. Baba is the Arabic word for "father" as well as a term of endearment; ghanouj or ghanoush means "indulged/pampered." It is not known whether baba refers to an actual parent indulged by this special treat or to the eggplant, which is considered the most important (big daddy) of vegetables. The best baba ghanouj comes from young eggplants with a shiny skin, as they have fewer seeds. Roasting the eggplant imparts a characteristic pleasing smoky flavor. Good baba ghanouj should be smoky and creamy. It is a standard in a mezze (appetizer assortment) with warm pita, crackers, and crudités.
Israelis learned to make baba ghanouj from the Arabs, sometimes substituting mayonnaise or yogurt for the tahini. In the decade following the founding of the state in 1948, a period known as the tzena (austerity), eggplant in particular became widely used as a meat substitute and mashed eggplant salad emerged as a cultural icon. As a result, in contemporary Israel, baba ghanouj is commonplace at meals and as a starter in restaurants, and is usually kept in the refrigerator in prospect of unexpected guests or need for a snack. Due to the impact of Israelis in America in the late twentieth century, baba ghanouj is readily available in supermarkets there as well.
(See also Eggplant)
Lebanese Eggplant Spread with Tahini (Baba Ghanouj)
about 3 cups/5 to 6 servings
[PAREVE]
2 medium (1¼ pounds each) eggplants
About ¼ cup tahini (sesame seed paste)
4 to 5 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
About 3 tablespoons olive oil
1 to 2 cloves garlic, minced
About ¾ teaspoon table salt or 1½ teaspoons kosher salt
Ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley for garnish (optional)
2 tablespoons pine nuts for garnish (optional)
1. Cut several slits in the eggplants. Roast the eggplants over a flame, turning every 5 minutes, until charred and tender, 15 to 25 minutes. Or place on a baking sheet and bake in a 375°F oven until very tender, about 1 hour. Or roast over a flame until lightly charred, then transfer to a baking sheet and bake until tender and shriveled, about 30 minutes. Let cool until able to handle.
2. Peel the eggplants, being careful not to leave any skin, and let drain in a colander for about 5 minutes. Transfer the eggplants to a bowl, coarsely chop, then mash into a pulp. Mix in the tahini, lemon juice, oil, garlic, salt, and pepper. The mixture should have a soft, creamy consistency. If too thick, stir in a little water.
3. Spread the mixture on a plate and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes. Sprinkle with the parsley and/or pine nuts. Baba ghanouj can be stored in the refrigerator for at least 3 days. Serve at room temperature.
Babanatza
Babanatza is a dense semolina pudding, made with ground dried fruit, most often, raisins.
Origin: Greece
Semolina cakes and puddings, such as revani and tishpishti, are widespread throughout the Middle East and Balkans. What differentiates the Balkan babanatza is the ground dried fruit. Recipes vary from a rather simple batter without eggs to one with plenty of eggs that produces a lighter texture. In Greece, this semolina treat was often prepared on Friday and served for shalosh seudot (third meal) on the Sabbath afternoon or a melava malcha (post-Sabbath celebration) on Saturday night. A version using matza is very popular on Passover. A similar pudding made from cornmeal is called bobota; it emerged from the scarcity of World War II, when little was available except cornmeal, a grain the Greeks considered of poor quality. Some cooks like to moisten the pudding with atar (sugar syrup) in the Middle Eastern fashion, while others serve it with applesauce.
Greek Semolina and Raisin Pudding (Babanatza)
9 to 12 servings
[PAREVE]
2 cups raisins, or 1 cup raisins and 1 cup dried apricots or dried pitted plums
Sweet wine or water
6 large eggs
1 cup sugar
¾ cup honey
1½ cups (9 ounces) fine semolina (not semolina flour) or matza meal
1 cup chopped almonds or walnuts
2 to 3 medium green apples, peeled, cored, and chopped (optional)
1. Soak the raisins in wine to cover overnight. Drain. Grind or puree the raisins.
2. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 13-by-9-inch baking pan.
3. Beat the eggs until light, about 5 minutes. Add the sugar and honey and beat until thick and creamy, about 5 minutes
. Stir in the raisins, semolina, nuts, and, if using, apples.
4. Pour into the prepared pan—the batter should be no more than 2 inches deep. Bake until golden brown, about 1 hour. Let cool. Cut into squares or diamonds.
Babka
Babka is a cake of rich, yeast-raised dough, spread with a sweet filling, rolled up, and baked in a loaf pan.
Origin: Poland, Ukraine
Other names: oogat kinamon, Russian coffee cake.
The Germans and Austrians had their kuchen and the Hungarians their rolled cakes (kakosh, makosh, and dios) and aranygaluska, but in parts of Poland and Ukraine, it was babka. Babka takes its name from the endearment form of the Slavic babcia (grandmother), which is related to the Eastern Yiddish bubbe, thus literally meaning "grandma's cake." This name was derived because the cake's tall, stout, fluted sides, formed in a traditional Polish pan, were reminiscent of an old woman's skirt, and/or because grandmothers were the primary bakers of this treat. Those familiar with the contemporary Jewish loaf-like babka may be surprised by the tall cake, but that is because there are two styles of babka. The venerable non-Jewish version, baked in a "Turk's head pan" (a scalloped-edged tube pan that resembles a turban), is similar in texture (spongy) and shape (tall and cylindrical) to an Alsatian kugelhopf. Quite different is the more recent Jewish-style babka, a sweet bread made from a firm yeast dough, spread with a filling, and rolled up jelly-roll style.
Jewish babka evolved in early nineteenth-century Poland from the Sabbath egg challah when housewives prepared extra dough, spread it with a little jam or cinnamon, perhaps sprinkled some raisins over the top, rolled it up, and baked it alongside the bread, providing a delicious snack for hungry children on busy Friday afternoons or a special treat for the Sabbath. Unlike the butter-rich non-Jewish babka, Jewish versions were usually kept pareve by using oil. Since few eastern European Jewish households at that time had a Turk's head pan or other tube pan, the cake was typically baked as a loaf. The result is a light, eggy bread, which, when cut into slices, has generous alternate swirls of filling. Babka is firmer and slightly drier than a brioche, but makes up for its lack of richness with the delightful swirls; it should never be cloying or overwhelming. Part of babka's appeal is that it is fancier and more interesting than a typical coffee cake, yet it is not too gourmet or complex, so any home baker can easily replicate it. Besides Sabbath fare, a slice of babka with a glass of tea became a widespread way for some Poles to break the fast of Yom Kippur. Dairy babka filled with sweetened curd cheese might appear for Shavuot. Babka is also sliced and toasted for breakfast, as a sort of intense cinnamon bread. Besides the original cinnamon filling, numerous others emerged, including almond paste, apricot lekvar, cheese, chocolate, poppy seed, and walnut.
In the mid-twentieth century, some bakers began topping the loaf with streusel, which may or may not be gilding the lily. In addition, shikkera babka (literally "drunken grandma"), sometimes served during Purim, is an unfilled version drizzled with a syrup laced with whiskey or rum, akin to a French savarin and baba au rhum (technically babka au rhum).
Throughout much of the twentieth century, Jewish-style babka was little known outside of Polish Jewish homes. During the late 1950s, European-style bakeries in Israel began popularizing the cake there. Around the same time in America, Jewish babka began spreading outside Polish Jewish areas, gradually appearing in American sisterhood cookbooks and Jewish bakeries. Soon babka loaves could be found in Greek and other non-Jewish bakeries around New York City and other areas with a large Jewish population, and Americans came to associate the term babka with the Jewish version.
Babka achieved national fame in a 1994 episode of the sitcom Seinfeld; it served as the plot point as a gift for a dinner party, the character Elaine explaining, "You can't beat a babka."
Polish Rolled Yeast Cake (Babka)
2 medium loaves
[PAREVE or DAIRY]
Dough:
1 package (2¼ teaspoons) active dry yeast or 1 (0.6-ounce) cake fresh yeast
½ cup warm water (105 to 115°F for dry yeast; 80 to 85°F for fresh yeast), or ¼ cup warm water and ¼ cup warm milk
½ cup sugar
1 cup vegetable oil or unsalted butter
4 large eggs, or 2 large eggs and 2 large egg yolks
1 teaspoon table salt or 2 teaspoons kosher salt
About 4¼ cups (22 ounces) bread or unbleached all-purpose flour
Double recipe of 1 babka filling, or 1 recipe each of 2 separate fillings (recipes follow)
½ to 1 cup raisins, dried currants, or coarsely chopped walnuts (optional)
Egg wash (1 large egg beaten with 1 teaspoon water) or egg white for brushing
1. Dissolve the yeast in ¼ cup water. Stir in 1 teaspoon sugar and let stand until foamy, 5 to 10 minutes. In a large bowl, combine the yeast mixture, remaining water, remaining sugar, butter, eggs, salt, and enough flour to make a dough that holds together. Knead until smooth and springy, about 5 minutes. Place in an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover with plastic wrap or a kitchen towel and let rise in a warm, draft-free place until doubled in bulk, 2 to 3 hours.
2. On a lightly floured surface or in an electric mixer with a dough hook, knead the dough, adding more flour as needed, until smooth and springy, about 5 minutes. Place in an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover loosely with plastic wrap or a kitchen towel and let rise in a warm, draft-free place until doubled in bulk, 2 to 3 hours, or cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. If refrigerating, let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before using.
3. Punch down the dough and divide in half. Roll each piece into a 12-by-8-inch rectangle about 1/3 inch thick. Spread each with the same or different fillings, leaving a 1-inch border on all sides. If using, sprinkle with the raisins. Brush the edges with a little egg wash to help seal the babka. Starting from a narrow end, roll up jelly-roll style and pinch the seams to seal.
4. Place each babka, seam side down, in a greased 9-by-5-inch loaf pan, 9-inch tube pan, or 10-inch round cake pan; each pan should be no more than two-thirds full. Cover loosely with plastic wrap or a kitchen towel and let rise until nearly doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.
5. Preheat the oven to 350°F (325°F if using glass pans).
6. Brush each babka with the egg wash. Bake until the babkas are golden brown and hollow sounding when tapped, or until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center registers 188°F, 35 to 45 minutes. Let stand in the pan for 10 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack and let cool. Wrap and store at room temperature for up to 2 days or in the freezer for up to 2 months.
Babka Fillings
Cinnamon Filling
enough for 1 medium loaf
½ cup brown or granulated sugar, or ¼ cup each
1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons (¼ stick) unsalted margarine or butter, melted
1 tablespoon corn syrup or honey
In a medium bowl, combine the sugar and cinnamon. Stir in the margarine and corn syrup to make a smooth paste.
Chocolate Filling
enough for 1 medium loaf
4 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, finely ground
¼ cup unsweetened cocoa powder
½ cup sugar, ¾ cup apricot jam, or ¼ cup almond paste
3 tablespoons unsalted butter or margarine, melted
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional)
In a medium bowl, combine all the ingredients.
Bachsh
Bachsh is rice cooked with cubes of meat or liver and various fresh herbs that tint the rice green.
Origin: Uzbekistan
Most Bukharans associate the smell of rice cooking with their home and childhood. In many Bukharan households, no Friday night dinner or holiday meal would be considered complete without bachsh, a variation of the other major rice dish, plov. Bachsh is cooked in a cotton bag or a lingharie, which is a large oval ceramic dish, which helps to keep each grain of rice
intact and separate. This dish is also traditional for Hanukkah. Another popular Friday night rice dish is oshi piyozi (rice-and-meat-stuffed onion shells). For Sabbath lunch there is osh sevo, rice with shin meat, dried plums, and cinnamon, which is baked overnight in a low oven.
(See also Plov)
Bukharan Green Rice (Bachsh)
5 to 6 servings
[MEAT]
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 medium onion, chopped
8 ounces lamb or beef chuck, cut into ½-inch pieces
Ground black pepper to taste
2 cups water
About 1 teaspoon table salt or 2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/8 teaspoon saffron strands (optional)
1 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
½ cup chopped fresh dill
½ cup chopped fresh mint
1½ cups (10 ounces) basmati rice
1. In a large pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until soft and translucent, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the meat and stir until it loses its red color, about 5 minutes. Add the pepper, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 30 minutes.
2. Add the water, salt, and, if using, saffron, increase the heat, and bring to a boil. Add ¾ cup cilantro, all the parsley, all the dill, and ¼ cup mint. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 10 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, place the rice in a bowl, add cold water to cover, swirl, and drain. Repeat rinsing the rice until no whiteness appears in the water. Drain. Add the rice to the meat and herb mixture and press the solids down—the water should cover the rice by about 1 inch.
4. Cover, bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the liquid evaporates, about 20 minutes.
5. Using the handle of a wooden spoon, poke 7 holes in the rice, cover the pot with a kitchen towel, cover with the lid, and let stand for 15 minutes. Stir in the remaining herbs. Serve warm.
Bagaleh
Bagaleh is a soft ring-shaped bread that is coated with sesame seeds.
Origin: Israel
Other name: Jerusalem bagel.
Israelis love fresh baked breads, especially relatively smaller ones, perfect in size for a transportable breakfast or snack. Among the most prominent of contemporary Israeli breads, a common sight hanging at kiosks and markets, are bagelach (bagaleh singular), named after the similarly shaped Polish bagel.
