by Gil Marks
6 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 large egg, lightly beaten
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons water
2 teaspoons white vinegar
In a medium bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, and salt and make a well in the center. Blend together the oil and egg, then stir in the water and vinegar. Pour into the well and stir to form a soft, smooth dough, adding more flour if necessary. Cover and let stand at room temperature for at least 1 hour.
Ashkenazic Yeast Pastry (Hefeteig)
about 2 pounds
[DAIRY or PAREVE]
This dough makes enough for two medium breads or about forty-two turnovers. The sweetened variations are most commonly used in pastries, including kuchen (coffee cakes), zwetschgenkuchen (plum cake), kipfel (crescents), babka, and hamantaschen.
1 package (2¼ teaspoons) active dry yeast or 1 (0.6-ounce) cake fresh yeast
1 cup warm water (105°F to 115°F for dry yeast; 80°F to 85°F for fresh yeast), or ¼ cup warm water and ¾ cup sour cream or warm milk
1 to 6 tablespoons sugar or honey
2 large eggs or 4 large egg yolks
¼ cup unsalted butter or shortening, softened
1½ teaspoons table salt or 1 tablespoon kosher salt
About 3¾ cups (16 ounces) bread or unbleached all-purpose flour
1. Dissolve the yeast in ¼ cup water. Stir in 1 teaspoon sugar and let stand until foamy, 5 to 10 minutes. In a large bowl, combine the yeast mixture, remaining water, remaining sugar, eggs, butter, salt, and 2 cups flour. Gradually add enough of the remaining flour to make a dough that holds together.
2. Knead the dough until smooth and elastic, 10 to 15 minutes. Place in an oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover loosely with plastic wrap or a kitchen towel and let rise in warm, draft-free place until doubled in bulk, about 1½ hours. Punch down the dough, knead briefly, cover, and refrigerate for 8 hours and up to 24 hours.
Teiglach
Teiglach are small pieces of dough cooked in a honey syrup.
Origin: Eastern Europe
Other names: taiglach, tayglach, teyglekh; Italy: ceciarchiata, struffoli; Ladino: pinyonati.
A Middle Eastern culinary practice, still very much in vogue today, consists of soaking pastries and cakes in a honey or sugar syrup as a means of keeping them from drying out or refreshing them once stale. In a Moorish confection called pinonate (from the word for "pine nut"), eggs were added to the dough, which was deep-fried as small balls and simmered in honey. Pinonate was adopted by Sephardim and called pinyonati, although its popularity has faded recently. This dish eventually reached Italy, although it is unknown whether it arrived by way of Sicily or was introduced by Sephardim, or perhaps both; it is called ceciarchiata (referring to its resemblance to chickpeas, ceci in Italian) in northern Italy, and struffoli in the south. Italian Jews typically add toasted chopped hazelnuts for a popular Hanukkah treat.
It was among eastern European Jews, however, that these little pieces of dough in honey syrup gained the widest appeal. The nuggets are called teiglach (literally "little dough pieces"). The obvious similarity in texture and taste of teiglach to pinyonati and ceciarchiata suggests an Italian or Sephardic origin.
Since fat for frying was very limited among northern European Jews, they abandoned it, substituting two other basic methods of preparing teiglach: The raw dough nuggets can be fully cooked in the honey syrup or they can be baked first and then added to the syrup. The prebaked nuggets tend to be very hard, while the unbaked ones are chewy. Plenty of egg is necessary so that the dough puffs up, although today baking powder is commonly added. A firm dough produces a more tender interior.
In addition to the differences resulting from preparation methods, there are other variations in the pastry. The small dough pieces can be round, cylindrical, tied into knots, braided like a cruller, or even formed into rings like doughnuts. In a Passover version, matza meal is substituted for the flour. In another variation, a raisin or piece of dried plum or date is stuffed in the center of each nugget. Nuts and/or candied fruit can also be added to the syrup. There must be plenty of syrup, so that the dough nuggets can swim in it. As is typical of eastern Ashkenazic cooking, the syrup is usually flavored with ground ginger.
Before commercial catering, the food at most Jewish simchot (celebrations) was prepared by the community. In the typical Jewish area, most housewives had one special dish they prepared for these events. Inevitably one was teiglach. Thus Ashkenazim, particularly those from Lithuania and Latvia, traditionally enjoyed this treat on most celebrations, such as a brit milah, bar mitzvah, and wedding. In a number of households, teiglach was traditional on Shavuot and Simchat Torah, symbolizing that Torah was as sweet as honey, as well as on Purim, and in some families it was served on every Sabbath. Today, teiglach is primarily and most prominently featured on Rosh Hashanah, to start the new year on a sweet note. In many households, the confection was typically made several days before Rosh Hashanah, then any remaining syrup was used the following day for the New Year's honey cake, getting the baking out of the way before turning to the other holiday dishes.
Eastern Europeans brought teiglach to America. The word first appeared in English in The Jewish Encyclopedia (New York) in 1903, but teiglach was virtually unknown in England at that time and gained only limited popularity in Israel. On the other hand, Lithuanian immigrants brought it to South Africa, where it is a New Year's delicacy and cooks sometimes substitute golden syrup for the honey. Teiglach are available in American Jewish bakeries and even some non-Jewish establishments, where they appear each year shortly before Rosh Hashanah. Since eastern European Jews developed the custom of abstaining from nuts on Rosh Hashanah, in the Old Country they were omitted from teiglach for this holiday. Many American bakers add nuts, sometimes almonds and/or hazelnuts, and often candied cherries. Consequently, in America the pastry ironically became associated with nuts, which are still a taboo Rosh Hashanah item in Orthodox Ashkenazic circles.
In the mid-twentieth century, after American kosher food producers introduced packaged commercial "soup nuts" (mandlen in Yiddish), one-inch puffed balls of matza-egg dough, some cooks began substituting them for the teiglach dough balls simmering them in a syrup for a few minutes. Traditionalists, of course, insist on the genuine article, although the disagreement endures over whether chewy or crunchy nuggets are superior.
Ashkenazic Honey Dough Balls (Teiglach/Teyglekh)
about 36 pieces
[PAREVE]
Pastry:
2½ cups (12.5 ounces) all-purpose flour or 1½ cups matza cake meal
1 teaspoon double-acting baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
4 large eggs, lightly beaten
3 tablespoons vegetable or peanut oil
Syrup:
2 cups (1½ pounds) dark honey
1 to 3 teaspoons ground ginger, 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest, or 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 cup coarsely chopped blanched almonds, hazelnuts, pecans, or walnuts; or ½ cup nuts and ½ cup raisins (optional)
½ cup boiling water
1. To make the pastry: Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt. In a medium bowl, combine the eggs, and oil. Stir in the flour mixture, adding more flour if necessary, to make a fairly firm, workable dough. On a lightly floured surface, knead until smooth, 2 to 3 minutes.
2. Divide the dough into pieces and roll into ½-inch-thick ropes. Cut into ½-inch pieces. Leave as oblong shapes or roll into balls. Arrange on a flat surface and let dry for at least 30 minutes.
3. To make the syrup: In a large pot, stir the honey and ginger over low heat until the honey melts, about 5 minutes. Increase the heat to medium and bring to a boil.
4. Add the dough pieces, a few at a time to prevent sticking and to keep the syrup boiling. When all the pieces are in the pot, return the syrup to a boil.
5. To cook on the stovetop: Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook, without uncovering, for 25 minutes. Stir the teigla
ch. Increase the heat to medium and cook, uncovered and stirring every 5 minutes, until the teiglach are deep brown and hollow sounding when tapped, about 40 minutes. Alternatively, to cook in the oven: Cover the pot and cook over medium heat on the stove for 10 minutes. Place in a 375°F oven and bake, stirring at 15-minute intervals, until the teiglach are deep brown and hollow sounding when tapped, about 35 minutes.
6. If using, stir in the nuts. Carefully stir in the boiling water, remove from the heat, and let stand for 1 minute. Pour the teiglach onto a greased baking sheet or a large wooden board moistened with cold water.
7. Have a bowl of ice water handy. Using hands moistened with ice water, shape the teiglach into a single large mound or several 3-inch mounds. Or spread to a 1½-inch thickness and cut into diamonds or squares. Let cool completely. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 weeks.
T'fina
T'fina is a Sabbath stew.
Origin: Maghreb
Other names: Algeria: d'fina; Libya and Tunisia: tafinah; Tangiers: horisa, orissa.
T'fina, which means "buried" in Arabic, and is a variation of the Iberian adafina, the name that Tunisians and Libyans use for their Sabbath stew, of which there are several very colorful and unique varieties. In most Tunisian t'finas, the ingredients are mixed together as a stew, unlike the more complicated Moroccan hamins/adafinas and skhinas, which are traditionally cooked in layers and separated into different dishes for serving. As is typical in the Maghreb, harissa (chili paste) is commonly added for a bit of fire (t'fina ou harissa). Tunisian red t'fina (t'fina camounia) contains harissa and paprika, while green t'fina (t'fina bkaïla or t'fina sfanach) includes spinach, chard, or beet greens. Algerians commonly add turnips. The version from the island of Djerba includes dried plums, dried apricots, and cinnamon. Many Algerians, Tunisians, and Libyans add a bobinet (beef sausage) or osbana (a sort of sausage made from the chopped entrails of a sheep mixed with eggs, rice or bread crumbs, and spices—generally cumin, coriander, and chilies—and stuffed into a sheep's stomach). T'fina is typically served with couscous.
(See also Adafina, Hamin, Harisa, and Sabbath/Shabbat)
Tiganite
Tiganite is a small pancake.
Origin: Greece
In Greek, a skillet is a tigani; anything fried in it is called tiganita, and that term provides the name for these pancakes. Greeks have been enjoying pancakes from at least the sixth century BCE, when they were a common breakfast fried in olive oil, drizzled with honey, and topped with various nuts and fruits. Many people still serve them with honey, while others substitute petimezi (a syrup made from boiled grapes) or various other syrups. Some spread them with anthotyro, a soft fresh goat or sheep cheese, or top them with Greek yogurt. There are numerous variations of the basic pancake, including some made with whole-wheat flour or rice flour, and others with an anise flavor that comes from a little ouzo. Greek Jews enjoy tiganites on Hanukkah. Passover versions are made with matza meal.
(See also Tagine)
Greek Pancakes (Tiganites)
about fifteen 4-inch pancakes
[DAIRY or PAREVE]
1¼ cups (6.25 ounces) all-purpose flour, or ¾ cup all-purpose flour and ½ cup whole-wheat or rice flour
1 teaspoon double-acting baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon table salt or 1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1¼ cups buttermilk or sour milk (1¼ cups milk mixed with 1 tablespoon lemon juice or vinegar), or ½ cup milk and ¾ cup plain yogurt, or 1 cup water and ¼ cup ouzo
3 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil
3 tablespoons sugar or honey
Olive or vegetable oil for frying
Warm honey, petimezi, or atar (Middle Eastern Sugar Syrup (Atar/Shira)), for drizzling; or cinnamon-sugar for sprinkling
Chopped almonds, pistachios, or walnuts; or sesame seeds; for sprinkling
1. In a medium bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Blend together the egg, milk, oil, and sugar. Add to the flour mixture and stir just to combine. If the batter is too thick, add a little milk; if too thin, stir in a little flour. Cover and let stand in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour.
2. Heat a large skillet or griddle over medium heat until a few drops of water sprinkled on the surface scatter and evaporate. Lightly grease with the oil.
3. In batches, drop the batter by ¼ cupfuls onto the skillet to form 4-inch pancakes. Cook until bubbles appear on the top and the bottom is lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Turn and cook until golden brown, about 1 minute. Drizzle with the honey and sprinkle with the nuts.
Timman
Timman is a rice dish that has a crust on the bottom.
Origin: Iraq
Ruz is the most common Arabic word for rice, but in Iraq it also goes by the name timman or temn. Rice dishes, many similar to those prepared today, were recorded in thirteenth-century Baghdad cookbooks. In many Iraqi homes, rice is a daily dish and the ability to make perfect rice is the measure of a good cook. The favorite rice variety in modern Iraq is ambar/anbar, a yellowish, very aromatic, long-grain rice grown in the provinces of Anbar and Kadisiya. Iraqi rice cooking is based on the method used for Persian chelow, a multistepped process intended to produce just-tender, fluffy grains of rice.
A prominent aspect of Iraqi rice cooking is the hkaka, a crisp bottom crust. It differs slightly from the Persian tahdiq, which is a single thick piece; the hkaka contains some loose rice as well. Cooks use a kifkir, a special meat spatula, to scrape loose the crust while keeping it intact, then invert the rice onto a seeniyya (serving platter). Before serving, the hkaka is broken into pieces so that everyone is provided with some along with the fluffy rice.
Besides plain cooked white rice (timman abyadh), which is served with a stew or other dishes with a sauce, there are numerous flavored ones. In many Iraqi households, timman ahmar (red rice), saffron rice (timman zaffran), or turmeric rice (timman asfar) were reserved for Friday night.
(See also Chelow/Polow and Tabyeet)
Iraqi Crusty Rice (Timman)
about 7½ cups/6 to 8 servings
[PAREVE or DAIRY]
2½ cups (1 pound) basmati, jasmine, or other long-grain rice
4 cups water
2 teaspoons table salt or 4 teaspoons kosher salt
3 tablespoons vegetable oil or ghee
1. Place the rice in a bowl, add water to cover, and let soak for 30 minutes. In a fine-mesh sieve or colander, rinse the rice under cold running water until the water runs clear. Drain.
2. In a large pot, bring the 4 cups water to a boil and add the salt. Add the rice and boil, uncovered, on high until the outside is soft, but the inside is still hard, about 8 minutes. Pour the rice into a sieve or colander, rinse with water, and drain. At this point, before the steaming step, the rice can also used as stuffing for chickens before roasting.
3. In a medium, heavy saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the rice, cover with a kitchen towel, then the lid. Cook over low heat until the rice is fluffy, about 25 minutes. The bottom of the rice should be brown, but not burnt. Dip the bottom of the pot into a sink full of cold water for 30 seconds, then invert onto a serving platter.
Variation
Iraqi Red Rice (Timman Ahmar):
Combine 1 tablespoon tomato paste, 1 tablespoon olive oil, and 2 cardamom pods. Or combine 1 tablespoon tomato paste, 1 tablespoon olive oil, ½ teaspoon ground turmeric, ½ teaspoon ground black pepper, and ¼ to ½ teaspoon cayenne. In Step 3, before adding the parboiled rice to the saucepan, stir the tomato mixture into the rice.
Tish
Tish literally means "table" in Yiddish, and it appears in terms for various meals, including Shabbos tish (Sabbath table) and chason's tish (groom's table). Among Chasidim, a tish has a much more significant connotation: A rebbe's tish is a public gathering of adherents of Chasidic rabbis at a communal meal. It began in the eighteenth century as t
he third meal of the Sabbath, the seudat shlishit held before sunset on Saturday. At first, it was an intimate feast shared between a rebbe, seated at the head of the table, and his male devotees scattered around the table. Women observed from the ezrat nashim (women's section). Along with food, the tish always includes singing in the form of niggunim (melodies) and zemirot (hymns) and, if enough room, dancing. The tish became a form of worship. During the nineteenth century, the tish expanded from a Saturday afternoon event to also one held at the end of the Friday night meal as well as holiday meals. A similar communal meal at which the rebbe is not present, but which is typically headed by the rebbe's son or an important rabbi, is called a botteh.
As the number of Chasidim dramatically increased, the tish grew less intimate and more mystical. The rebbe would now taste a small portion of each dish, then the remainder (shirayim), which was considered sanctified and a source of blessing, would be distributed among his followers; the rebbe sometimes personally doled out each portion. Today, in some of the larger Chasidic courts, the attendees sit or stand on bleachers (parentches) and the food is passed from person to person.
Challah and fish typically begin these meals. One item in particular emerged as the most prominent food at a tish, the kugel, to which the Chasidim attached numerous Kabbalistic meanings.
Tisha B'av
No date reverberates as large in Jewish history as the ninth of the month of Av (Tisha b'Av), which falls in late July or early August. The first mention of this date was in the Bible, when Moses sent twelve spies to survey the land of Canaan and ten of them, who preferred to remain in the wilderness, returned with a report calculated to provoke fear and resistance in a group only recently emancipated from slavery. The result was forty years of wandering in the wilderness before their children finally were able to enter Canaan. That single date reappears over and over in Jewish history through the subsequent millennia as one of tragedy. Consequently, the most somber span of the Jewish calendar is a three-week period of semi-mourning known as Shloshet Hashavuot (Three Weeks) or Bein Hametzarim (Between the Troubles). It stretches from the seventeenth day of the month of Tammuz, a minor fast day marking the beginning of the siege of Jerusalem, to the major fast of Tisha b'Av (the ninth day of the month of Av), commemorating a host of national disasters that occurred on this day.
