by Ruth Brandon
Milesi, Gabriel. Les Nouvelles 2000 familles: les dynasties de l’argent, du pouvoir financier et économique (Paris, 1990).
Monzie, Anatole de. La Saison des juges (Paris, 1943).
Nicholson, P. T., and I. Shaw, eds. Ancient Egyptian Materials and Technology (Cambridge, U.K., 2000).
O’Higgins, Patrick. Madame: An Intimate Biography of Helena Rubinstein (London, 1971).
Orbach, Susie. Bodies (London, 2009).
Ovid. Ars amatoria.
Paxton, Robert Owen. Vichy France: Old Guard, and New Order. 1940–1944 (New York, 1982).
Péan, Pierre. Le Mystérieux Docteur Martin (Paris, 1993).
———. Une Jeunesse française (Paris, 1994).
———. Vies et morts de Jean Moulin (Paris, 1998).
Peiss, Kathy. Hope in a Jar (New York, 1998).
Perrier, Marc. La véritable saison des juges (Paris, 1944).
Perrot, Philippe. Le Travail des apparences: les transformations du corps féminin XVIIIe–XIXe siècle (Paris, 1984).
Phillips, M. C. Skin Deep (Garden City, N.J., 1934).
Poncet, Charles. Nestlé, Bettencourt et les Nazis (Vevey, Switzerland, 1995).
Potton, Ariste. On a trouvé un chef (Lyon, 1937).
Rochebrune, Renaud de, and Jean-Claude Hazéra. Les Patrons sous l’Occupation, volumes 2 and 3 (Paris, 1995).
Roughead, William. Rascals Revisited (London, 1940).
Rubinstein, Helena. The Art of Feminine Beauty (New York, 1930).
———. My Life for Beauty (London, 1964).
Rudofsky, Bernard. Are Clothes Modern? (New York, 1947).
Schueller, Eugène. Le Deuxième salaire (Paris, 1939).
———. La Révolution de l’économie (Paris, 1941).
———. Faire Vivre—esquisse d’une economie proportionelle (privately printed; Paris, 1945).
———. L’Impôt sur l’énergie (Paris, 1957).
Slesin, Suzanne. Over the Top: Helena Rubinstein, Extraordinary Style, Beauty, Art, Fashion, Design (New York, 2003).
Steiner, Wendy. The Trouble with Beauty (London, 2001).
Stevenson, Karen. “Hairy Business,” in Ruth Holliday and John Hassard, eds., Contested Bodies (London, 2001).
Thomas, Martin. The French Empires at War, 1940–45 (Manchester, U.K., 1998).
Tournous, J.-R. L’Histoire secrète (Paris, 1965).
Trano, Stéphane. Mitterrand, les amis d’abord (Paris, 2000).
Turner, Bryan. The Body and Society (Oxford, 1984).
Uzanne, Octave. Etudes de sociologie féminine: Parisiennes de ce temps en leurs divers milieux, états et conditions (Paris, 1910).
Vinen, Richard. The Politics of French Business, 1936–1945 (Cambridge, U.K., 1991).
Waitzfelder, Monica. L’Oréal Took My Home: The Secrets of a Theft, Peter Bush trans. (London, 2006).
Walkowitz, Judith. City of Dreadful Delight: Narratives of Sexual Danger in Late-Victorian London (Chicago, 1992).
Webster, Paul. Mitterrand: l’autre histoire, 1945–1995 (Paris, 1995).
Wilson, Elizabeth. Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity (London, 1985).
Wolf, Naomi. The Beauty Myth (London, 1990).
Woodhead, Lindy. War Paint: Madame Helena Rubinstein and Miss Elizabeth Arden (London, 2003).
Articles
Helena Rubinstein
Sunday Telegraph February 1962, serialization of HR’s memoir Just For Luck:
Feb. 4, pp. 12–13: “The Demons That Still Drive Me.”
Feb. 11, p. 15: “M. Poiret Takes Offence—and Tears My Dress in Strips.”
Feb. 18, p. 14: “Timing, Luck—and £2m. Profit.”
Vogue (U.S.) February 15, 1915, pp. 20–23, “A Famous European ‘House of Beauty’ Announces the Opening of Its Doors in New York.”
Vogue (U.S.) May 1, 1915, pp. 82–84, “On Her Dressing-Table.”
Beerbohm, Max. “A Defence of Cosmetics,” The Yellow Book 1 (April 1894).
Clifford, Marie J. “Helena Rubinstein’s Beauty Salons, Fashion, and Modernist Display,” Winterthur Portfolio 38 (2003), pp. 83–108.
Flügel, J. C. “Clothes Symbolism and Clothes Ambivalence: The Psychology of Clothes,” International Journal of Psychoanalysis 10 (1929), pp. 205–17.
Gray, Allison. “People Who Want to Look Young and Beautiful,” American Magazine, December 1922, pp. 32–33.
Johnson, Alva. “Testimonials, COD—Some Light on Big Names in Advertising” and “Testimonials, Wholesale,” Outlook and Independent, March 18, 1931. pp. 398–99, and March 25, 1931, pp. 434–35.
Keiffer, Elaine Brown. “Madame Rubinstein, the Little Lady from Krakow,” Life, July 21, 1941, pp. 37–45.
Miller, Elizabeth-Carolyn. ‘ “Shrewd Woman of Business’: Madame Rachel, Victorian Consumerism, and L. T. Meade’s ‘The Sorceress of the Strand,” ’ Victorian Literature and Culture 34 (2006), pp. 311–32.
Swerling, Jo. “Beauty in Jars and Vials,” The New Yorker, June 30, 1928, pp. 20–23.
Schueller
Egoïste, no. 10 (1987), interview with Liliane Bettencourt.
Le Monde, February 1995 interview with Serge Klarsfeld.
Le Matin, August 27, 1941, interview with Eugène Deloncle.
La Gerbe, September 25, 1941, interview with Deloncle.
Coiffure de Paris, 1909, passim.
Noiville, Florence. “L’Oréal, une histoire au parfum de soufre,” Le Monde, January 17, 1997.
Thomas, Martin. “Giraud,” French History, 10, no. 1 (1996), pp. 86–111.
Tumblety, Joan. “Civil Wars of the Mind: The Commemoration of the 1789 Revolution in the Parisian Press of the Radical Right,” European History Quarterly 30, no. 3 (July 2000).
Votre Beauté, 1929–45, passim.
Archives
Archives Nationales de France (CARAN): Dossier instruit par la cour de justice du département de la Seine contre Eugène Schueller (cote Z 6 N L 11.108).
Fonds Majestic (cote AJ40).
Archives de Paris: Fonds du comité régional interprofessionel d’épuration. Affaire Schueller (cote 901/64/1–282).
Centre de Documentation Juive Contemporaine, Paris.
Curie Archives, Paris: BnF Mss. Archives Joliot-Curie (déposées à l’Institut Curie) NAF 28161
Letters from Helena Rubinstein to Rosa Hollay, 1914–28, now in the possession of James Bulmer.
Skin Deep correspondence, Consumers’ Research Collection, Special Collections, Rutgers University.
Index
The pagination of this electronic edition does not match the edition from which it was created. To locate a specific passage, please use the search feature of your e-book reader.
Page number followed by n indicates a footnote.
Abetz, Otto, 100–101
Action Française, 88, 92, 166, 177
actresses, 22, 27, 60–61, 219–20, 222–23
aerosol cans, 150
aftershave products, 105, 229
Albi Enterprises, 149, 152
Allergan, 207
allergic reactions, 41, 62–63, 210–11
Alsace, 43, 45, 110–11, 129, 183
Ambre Solaire, 47, 107
aniline derivatives in hairdyes, 48–49
Antell, Charles, 227
Anti-Defamation League, 182
anti-Semitism, 81, 106, 140–41, 155–56, 164, 216
France and, 88, 89, 98, 117–21, 134, 159–60, 163, 177, 180
Arab boycott, 151–56, 174, 180–81, 182
Aragon, Louis, 241
Arch de Triomphe bombing (1937), 95, 97, 101, 158
Arden, Elizabeth, 8, 23, 140, 180, 227
Armory Show (1913), 32
Association of National Socialist Lawyer
s, 186
ATS (British Auxiliary Territorial Service), 104
Auger, Victor, 46, 47
Auschwitz, 120n, 172, 185
Australia, 2, 6, 7, 9–15, 17–18, 19, 24, 140–41
Azzalure, 297
“bachelor girls,” 9
Bakelite, 57, 74
Banier, François-Marie, 240–49, 250, 251, 252, 253
Bara, Theda, 27
Barbie, Klaus, 190
Barre, Raymond, 177
Baxter, Richard, 211
Beaton, Cecil, 219
beauty, ideals of, 48, 72, 80–81, 102, 106–8, 215–16
beauty industry, 193–229
exposé of, 40–42, 48, 62, 194n, 202, 210
male consumers and, 104–5, 207, 211–12, 220–21, 228–29
as male business preserve, 227–28
Occupation and, 106–9
photography and, 217–20, 223, 224
psychological effects and, 30n, 40, 41–42, 148, 211
recessions and, 35, 210, 211–12
special sales techniques and, 30, 149
untapped market and, 40, 48
women entrepreneurs and, 8–10, 216
See also cosmetics; cosmetic surgery; hair dye
Beckett, Samuel, 241
Beerbohm, Max, 21–22
Ben-Gurion, David, 169, 238
Bénouville, Pierre de, 121–24, 133–38, 164
Bernheim gallery, 179, 181
Berr, Hélène, 119–20
Berr, Raymond, 120n
Bettencourt, André, 132–36, 151, 156, 176, 177
background of, 126–29, 133
charges against, 143, 164–74, 178
Jewish son-in-law of, 172, 178
marriage of, 236–37, 245
political contributions and, 249, 250–51
power and wealth of, 164–66, 168, 190, 195, 234, 252
resignation from L’Oréal of, 172, 178, 182
Bettencourt-Meyers, Françoise, 135, 228, 240, 245–47
Bettencourt-Schueller, Liliane, 39, 126, 247
birth of, 55
father’s remarriage and, 117
L’Oréal role of, 172, 228, 231
male influences on, 237, 240–53
marriage of, 132, 135, 236–37
mother’s death and, 232–33
Nestlé shares of, 151–52
upbring of, 233–36
wealth inherited by, 165, 190, 231–32, 234, 249–50, 252–53
Beyoncé, 217, 224
BGV (insurance company), 184, 186, 187, 188, 189
Bibliothèque Nationale, 168
Black Manikin Press, 32, 35–36
Blair, Tony, 220
bleached blond hair, 61–62
Bleustein, Marcel, 58, 59, 60
Blum, Léon, 79, 89, 93
bobbed hair, 60–61
body image, 209, 224
Boots (pharmacy), 202
Borotra, Jean, 107
Borradaile, Mrs., 197–98
Botox, 207–8, 209, 222, 223, 225, 228
Bouvyer, Jean, 175
Bow, Clara, 60
brand loyalty, 60
breasts
cosmetic surgery and, 199, 211–15, 229
Schueller regimen for, 73
Breedlove, Sarah, 216
Bresson, Robert, 241
Brinon, Fernand de, 116, 117
Bromberger, Merry, 44, 52, 83–84, 135, 174
Brooks, Louise, 60
Brosnan, Pierce, 229
Brown, Linda, 212–13
Brusset, Max, 121–22, 123
Burrows, Annie, 117–18, 135
Cadum soap, 59
Cagoule, La, 93–97, 100, 101, 133, 158, 174, 175, 176
papers of, 94, 97, 133, 157
trial of, 157, 161, 179, 180–81
Camelots du Roi, 92, 128
Carter, Ernestine, 6–7, 17
Castaing, Madeleine, 243–44, 247
Catholicism, 88–89, 92, 127, 128, 165, 169
CDG company, 154
celluloid, 56–57, 58, 59
CGT trade union, 113
Chagall, Marc, 140
Chanel, Coco, 23, 25, 60–61, 80
Charbonneau, Henry, 88–89, 121, 159
chemical skin peels, 203
Cinzano, 116
Citroën, André, 58
Coiffure de Paris, 52–55, 56, 65–66, 71. See also Votre Beauté
Colette, 25–26, 72
Colgate-Palmolive, 148–49
collaboration, 80, 81, 87–91, 92, 96–100, 167n
Bettencourt charges and, 132, 166, 167–69, 173–74
Corrèze trial for, 151, 155–56, 157, 159–63, 178–81
dégradation nationale sentence and, 161
épuration (trials) for, 112–13, 118, 173–74
French establishment amnesia about, 173–78
Jewish property and, 120–21, 155, 158–59, 181
material impetus for, 90, 115–16, 118
Schueller trials (1946, 1948) for, xii, 52, 91, 99, 102–3, 109–15, 118–19, 121–24, 132–34, 137–38, 161, 162, 174, 250, 253
collagen fillers, 207
Collins, Lauren, 222–23
comb manufacture, 56–57, 58
Communists, 46, 57, 67, 80, 95, 96, 115, 121, 134, 156
Conseil National de la Résistance, 170
Consumer Research, 40–42, 48, 62, 194n, 202, 210
Corre, Aristide, 97
Corrèze, Jacques, 143, 147, 151–63, 172–81, 187, 193
death of, 182
Nazi ties of, 159, 178–80, 181
unrepentance of, 179–80
Cosmair, 146, 147, 149, 150, 155
cosmetics
acceptance of, 25, 26–27, 104, 105–6, 225
allergies to, 41
brand loyalty and, 60
expenditures on, 104
historical views of, 2–3, 8
L’Oréal and, 146–47
pricing of, 29–30, 34
psychological effects of, 30n, 35, 40, 41–42, 104, 200, 211, 220, 221, 248, 253
social control and, 106, 229
stigma of, 21–22, 41, 198–99, 200–201, 225
working women and, 146
See also specific types
cosmetic surgery, 16, 32, 199, 200, 203–17, 222, 225
allure of, 209, 213–15
cost of, 206, 214
male-female surgeon ratio and, 226, 228
noninvasive, 206–10
Cot, Pierre, 134
Coty, François, 80
couture, 24, 106, 108, 236
Croix de Feu movement, 80, 92, 93
Croix de Guerre, 56, 164
Curie, Eve, 47
Curie, Irène, 115
Curie, Marie, 11, 46, 47
Daladier, Édouard, 79
Dalí, Salvador, 28
Dalle, François, 85, 112
background of, 126–30, 133
Corrèze scandal and, 143, 156, 161, 164, 177, 180
Frydman deal and, 154–56, 174, 250
L’Oréal and, 130–32, 136, 146–50, 153–54, 174, 182–83
Dangin, Pascal, 222
Darlan, Admiral François, 119
Darling, George E., 61
Darquier de Pellepoix, Louis, 117
Dassault, Marcel (formerly Bloch), 134n, 164, 195
Dautresme, Béatrice, 228
Deacon, Gladys, 203–4, 208
Déat, Marcel, 100–101, 112, 122
de Gaulle, Charles, 85, 96, 115, 118, 164, 169, 170, 175
Delonc
le, Claude, 160, 175
Deloncle, Eugène, 92, 93–101, 133–34, 155, 158–60, 162, 175, 179, 181
assassination of, 122–23, 160
Deloncle, Louis, 160
Deloncle, Mercédès, 160, 161, 175–76
Depp, Johnny, 241
Digeon, Georges, 112–13
Disraeli, Benjamin, 198
Doncieux, Berthe. See Schueller, Berthe
Dongen, Kees van, 196
Dormoy, Marx, 101
Dove soap campaign, 223
Dreyfus affair, 88
D’Souza, Christa, 212
Duchamp, Marcel, 32
Dufy, Raoul, 28
Dulles, Allen, 169, 170
Dunkirk evacuation, 85
Dunlap, Knight, 80–81
Dürr, Luise, 184, 185
Duseigneur, General, 96
Eban, Abba, 169
economic downturns, cosmetic sales and, 35, 210, 211–12
Edwards, John, 220
Egoïste, 232–33, 235, 241
Elseve shampoo, 182
Engel, Eliot, 168–69, 170, 172, 173
eugenics, 80–81
European Court of Human Rights, 191
European Union, 70, 90
eye makeup, 22, 27
Fabius, Laurent, 176–77
face cream, 196–97
effectiveness of, 202–3
home recipes for, 7–11, 13
markup on, 12–13, 34
products for men, 105, 229
face-lifts, 211–13
Factor, Max, 41, 227
Faisceau movement, 80
false hair pieces, 53–54
fascism, 80, 81, 88
France and, 92–93, 128, 159
Feminine Mystique, The (Friedan), 24, 226, 227
Filliol, Jean, 93, 94, 96, 97, 111n, 133–34, 159, 161–62
film industry, 27, 57, 154 See also actresses
Ford, Henry, 77, 78–79, 84, 87
Franchet d’Espérey, Louis, 94, 95
Franco, Francisco, 79, 162
Free French forces, 121
Free Hold (hair mousse), 150
Freemasons, 88, 89, 94, 95
French Occupation. See Occupation
French underground. See Resistance
Freudiger brothers, 118
Friedan, Betty, 24, 226, 227
Front National, 132n
Front Populaire, 101
Frydman, David, 154, 156, 167, 175, 178
Frydman, Jean, 154–57, 161, 163–65, 167–74, 191, 250
Fuller, R. Buckminster, 73
Games, Abram, 104
Garnier, 217n
Germany, 67, 79, 84, 87
L’Oréal subsidiary, 182–91
