1) Sempre Pizza (センプレ ピッツァ) - We don’t know how this place keeps things so cheap, but they sell real Italian pizzas for only a few coins. Pizzas from 350 yen • 11:30am-10pm • Head out of Koenji station (north exit), head up the street with the Sundrug (サンドラッグ高円寺店), take a left at the end and walk down • Google Maps
2) Floresta Nature Doughnuts (フロレスタ高円寺店) - Fancy doughnuts and some good choices for those who want a healthier, organic sweet snack. Doughnuts from 150 yen • 9am-9pm • From Sempre Pizza, take a right turn and walk up the street • Google Maps
3) Mister Donut (ミスタードーナツ) - Cheaper option for doughnuts, with a huge choice. Also sells cheap snacks like sausage rolls, soups and breads. Doughnuts from 100 yen, breads from 120 yen • 7am-11pm • Near McDonald's at Koenji station, north exit • Google Maps
4) Yoshinoya (吉野家) - Gyudon eat-in and takeaway. Meals from 330 yen • 24h • North exit of Koenji station • Google Maps
5) Kaiten Misakiko (海鮮三崎港) - Some of the cheapest sushi in Tokyo, and great quality. Sushi plate from 110 yen + tax • 11am-11pm • One branch is outside Koenji station (north exit), on the right next to Yoshinoya. The other is a minute down PAL Shopping Arcade • Google Maps
6) Hotto Motto (ほっともっと) - Another good bento spot in Koenji, with a more varied menu than Origin Bento. Bento boxes from 390 yen • 8am-11pm • From Koenji station (north exit), walk a little past Yoshinoya on the right. Hotto Motto is on the right side • Google Maps
7) Origin Bento - The most popular bento chain in Tokyo, we have forgotten the number of times we have visited this Koenji branch. Bento boxes from 390 yen • 24h • Head out of Koenji station (north exit) up the street with the Sundrug (サンドラッグ高円寺店), take a right at the end and walk down two blocks • Google Maps
8) Matsuya (松屋) - Gyudon and burger eat-in and takeaway. Meals from 290 yen • 24h • On the left side after exiting Koenji station, north exit • Google Maps
9) Bochi Bochi Okonomiyaki (ぼちぼち) - Reasonably priced okonomiyaki (Japanese pancake) restaurant. Plates from 800 yen • 11am-11pm • Just above Matsuya • Google Maps
10) Tenya Tempura (天丼てんや) - Cheap tempura bowls and plates. Bowls from 500 yen • 11am-11:30pm • On the left side after exiting Koenji station, north exit • Google Maps
11) Kyotaru Sushi (京樽) - Cheap sushi stall, with discounts in the evenings before closing. Sushi boxes from 490 yen • 9am-10pm • Behind McDonald’s, outside Koenji station, north exit • Google Maps
Cheap supermarkets (スーパー)
There is a cheap supermarket called U-Takaraya (ユータカラヤ) near the north exit (10am-9am).
Nightlife
There are a host of cheap outside bars around the station, and under the tracks, especially on the left as you exit on the north side. We recommend having a walk around and seeing which one you like the look of. There are also some yakitori restaurants around here as well, but be careful with ordering, as the prices can go sky high if you get more than a few sticks.
Free wifi locations
Wifi reception is awful in Koenji station, so head outside to get on the net. McDonald's, just to the left of the north exit, has good wifi.
How to get there and away
From Shinjuku station, take the Chuo Line or Sobu Line to Koenji station (6 mins, 150 yen). From Tokyo station, take the Chuo Line to Koenji station (20 mins, 200 yen). You need to change at Nakano station on weekends. Recommended rail passes: Tokyo Metropolitan District Pass, Tokyo Subway Ticket, Tokyo Metro 24-hour Ticket. If using a subway pass, go to Shin-Koenji station on the Marunouchi Line, and walk north up Koenji Look Shopping Street (高円寺ルック商店街), between the McDonald’s and Mizuho Bank.
Kichijoji (吉祥寺)
Kichijoji is a nice place to spend a cheap day, just walking around and doing an odd bit of shopping, eating or relaxing in the park. It’s the most interesting suburban area outside central Tokyo, and has many things to keep all types of people occupied. While most visitors just skip ahead to Ghibli Museum, Kichijoji is well worth spending an afternoon in with its blend of local bargains and less crowded tourist spots.
Walk it and save!
Kichijoji is all walkable on foot, another reason it’s great for budget travelers. It can be a bit confusing to know where exactly you are, so use the landmarks on the map to help you out. Use the recommended walking route to help you out. When you get to the park, leave from the other exit, as shown in the map:
Things to do
Inokashira Park
Inokashira Park is a great place to come during the cherry blossom season or during the autumn colors. Other times, it is a relaxing spot for a stroll, especially on weekends with impromptu flea market stalls selling inventive goods and performers doing all kinds of free performances by the lake. FREE • 24h • Short walk south of Kichijoji station • Google Maps
Ghibli Museum (三鷹の森ジブリ美術館)
A house full of the same kind of magic that makes Ghibli films so great, the building looks like it was taken off a set of one of the movies. Original artwork, playrooms and a cinema showing short films, plus a special exhibition every year. Note that you cannot buy tickets on the day. Check the Ghibli Museum for how to buy tickets or go to a Lawson convenience store to buy beforehand (ask the staff for help). Ages 19 and over 1000 yen, Ages 13 to 18 700 yen, Ages 7 to 12 400 yen, Ages 4 to 6 100 yen • 10am-6pm • Well signposted from park • Google Maps • http://www.ghibli-museum.jp/en/
Benzaiten Shrine
A beautiful shrine on a little island in the park. Benzaiten is a Japanese Buddhist goddess, based on the Hindu goddess Saraswati. The shrine therefore has a few touches from both religions. FREE • 24h • Google Maps
Inokashira Park Zoo
A reasonably priced zoo with a good selection of animals and birds. Nothing too crazy in here, but if you like animals (and have children to entertain) it’s worth it. Adults 400 yen (FREE with Grutto Pass), Children (13-15) 150 yen, Children (12 and under) FREE • 9:30am-5pm (closed on Monday) • Google Maps
North of Kichijoji station
There are all sorts of businesses here, such as cheap clothes shops, nice restaurants and occasional ‘pop-up’ food stalls.
Yodobashi Camera
A huge, huge electronics store, and without the crowds of Akihabara or Shinjuku. Tax-free shopping available. 9:30am-10pm • Up the wide road from the north exit • Google Maps
Bars and small restaurants
Opposite the Baskin Robbins ice cream shop to the left of the north exit, be sure to explore this unique area. Most of the bars are a little expensive, but it has lots of atmosphere with its small narrow lanes packed with bars and restaurants.
Sun Road (吉祥寺サンロード商店街)
Great place to start your shopping and people watching in Kichijoji. Head out from the north exit of Kichijoji station. Sun Road is the roofed shopping arcade with the McDonald’s. Also be sure to head off to the many interesting roads and side paths along it.
Machioka Sweets (おかしのまちおか)
A treasure trove of Japanese candy and soda drinks, this charming shop often has great deals to entice people in, like drinks for 60 yen or candy value multipacks. 10am-9pm • Google Maps
100 yen shops
Pack your bags with $1 drinks, gifts, snacks and more at Daiso (ダイソー) or CanDo (キャン・ドゥ). 10am-9pm • Google Maps: Daiso / CanDo
Shoe Plaza (シュープラザ)
Bargain shoe superstore, one of many you will see around these Kichijoji shopping arcades. 10am-9pm • Google Maps
QB House
1000 yen haircutters. Get yourself the cheapest haircut of your life (and quickest, at under 10 minutes), or have a peek in at the huge vacuums they use to quickly suck up the hair on the floor! 1000 yen per cut • 10am-10pm • Under Seiyu Supermarket • Google Maps
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Nanaibashi Street (七井橋通り)
A really cool shopping street with loads of trendy shops and fancy cafes, so worth checking out to see what daily life is like in Kichijoji. Not generally the best place to get any bargains, but you may come across a sale or two if you’re lucky! Head south from Kichijoji. Nanaibashi Street is down the side of Marui Department Store.
Budget food
1) Fuji Soba (富土そば) - No frills soba and udon bar, with small curries and other side dishes. Soba from 290 yen • 24h • Opposite Baskin Robbins, near the north exit • Google Maps
2) Hamonika Quina (ハモニカ・クイナ) - Tacorice is a famous Okinawa invention, combining Japanese rice with a topping of what would be a filling to a Mexican taco. This one is the best in Tokyo. Tacorice from 690 yen • 11:30am-10pm • In collection of small bars and restaurants opposite Baskin Robbins, from the north exit • Google Maps
3) Sempre Pizza (センプレ ピッツァ) - Super cheap, tasty pizzas. Pizzas from 350 yen • 10am-9pm • Just outside the Atre shopping mall east exit • Google Maps
4) Shakey's (シェーキーズ) - All-you-can-eat pizza restaurant, with Japanese and seasonal themed flavors. Expect to be surprised by this imaginative menu! Lunch time: adults 1160 yen, teens 880 yen, under junior high school age 500 yen. Dinner time: 1650 yen, 1000 yen, 500 yen • 11am-10:15pm • On Sun Road • Google Maps
5) Matsuya (松屋) - Gyudon and burger eat-in and takeaway. Meals from 290 yen • 24h • Half way down Sun Road • Google Maps
Cheap supermarkets (スーパー)
Seiyu has a huge supermarket towards the end of Sun Road (10am-11pm).
Pharmacy (ドラッグ ストア)
Sundrug (サンドラッグ サンロード店) is on Sun Road, north of the station (10am - 10:15pm).
How to get there and away
From Shinjuku station, take the JR Chuo Line to Kichijoji station (210 yen, 15 mins). From other stations, first get to Shinjuku station. If using a Tokyo Metropolitan District Pass, you need to pay from Nishi-Ogikubo to Kichijoji (140 yen).
Meguro and Ebisu (目黒と恵比寿)
Well known to expats and fashionable Japanese, Meguro and Ebisu are not tourist hotspots, but places that everyday people love to hang out at. While 20-somethings go to Shibuya or Harajuku, these areas cater to more sophisticated and quieter tastes. Some restaurants and bars can therefore be a bit expensive, but if you follow the tips below you will be able to enjoy a budget day away from the crowds.
Things to do
Meguro
Meguro Parasitological Museum (目黒寄生虫館)
The Meguro Parasitological Museum is a truly 'only in Japan' experience! This museum is dedicated to bugs, parasites and other creepy crawlies. It claims to be the only such museum in the world, and the experience is definitely not a standard touristy one. Be prepared to be both shocked and amazed! Especially at the nine meter long tape-worm taken from one rather unfortunate victim. FREE • 10am-5pm (closed Mondays and Tuesdays or the following day if these are national holidays) • From Meguro station, head west along Meguro Dori, crossing over a large bridge. Walk up until you get to a Royal Host restaurant on your right. The museum is a little further on, across the road • Google Maps
Institute for Nature Study, National Museum of Nature and Science
Need to get back into nature, and quick? This surprisingly unknown forest in the heart of Tokyo is a great spot for an easy woodland walk or a spot of bird watching. A true sanctuary for natural beauty and birdlife, the mixed forest is easy to navigate. 310 yen • 9am-5pm (closed Mondays) • 10-minute walk along Meguro Dori from the east exit of JR Meguro station • Google Maps
Naka-Meguro
While this area has a reputation for being expensive and upper-class, Meguro River (目黒川) is a cool place to chill out in the evening with a drink or two. There are convenience stores around if you want to buy cheap beer or a bento to save on cash. Naka-Meguro is particularly popular during the cherry blossom season, when the river is lined with sakura trees. Naka-Meguro station or 10-minute walk down main road from Ebisu, heading west • Google Maps
Ebisu
Museum of Yebisu Beer (ヱビスビール記念館)
Mainly known as Ebisu Beer, one of the top three beer brands in Japan. The museum features a good number of displays on the history of Yebisu Beer, as well as Japanese beer in general. The Tasting Salon (reasonable fees apply) is the highlight here, and the shop features everything from branded beer jugs to beer jelly. FREE • 11am-7pm (closed Mondays and New Year holidays) • Once at Ebisu station follow the signs to the museum (5 minutes on foot) • Google Maps • http://www.sapporoholdings.jp/english/guide/yebisu/
Budget food
Around the stations are the usual budget chains, but most of the spots of interest are away from the stations, so consider picking up some food for later at a supermarket.
Cheap supermarkets (スーパー)
There is a 24h Maruetsu (マルエツ) supermarket on the way to the Meguro Parasitological Museum, as well as some smaller ones in and around the stations. Tokyu Store, just outside Meguro station’s west exit is good (10am-11pm).
100 yen shops
Can Do (キャンドゥ ) - Inside the Tokyu Store. 10am-10pm
How to get there and away
Meguro
On the JR Yamanote Line, Metro Namboku Line and Toei Mita Line. From Shibuya, take the JR Yamanote Line to Meguro station (160 yen, 5 mins).
Ebisu
One more stop on the JR Yamanote Line from Meguro. Also on JR Shonan-Shinjuku Line, JR Saikyo Line and Metro Hibiya Line. Recommended rail passes: Tokyo Subway Ticket, Tokyo Metro 24-hour Ticket, Tokyo Metropolitan District Pass
Shimo-Kitazawa (下北沢)
Shimo-Kitazawa is a trendy district with plenty of second-hand shops, bars, record shops, interesting fashions and nice cafes and restaurants. If you are into buying cheap clothes, CDs or ornaments, Shimo-Kitazawa is a must. While tourists tend to flock to the main areas of Shibuya and Shinjuku, ‘Shimo’ is where residents go to hang out and do a bit of budget shopping. It’s where all the cool, young people go!
Shopping and other things to do
The best way to experience Shimo-Kitazawa is to walk around randomly and just soak it in. The streets are so narrow and numerous, so don’t worry too much about getting lost. Just enjoy walking down any street that looks interesting and you should come across some nice spots. There are too many discount, thrift and second-hand stores to list them all, so here are some highlights. There are many more between these and down nearby side streets.
Ocean BLVD (古着屋 Ocean BLVD)
More than a dozen small shops selling cheap clothes, souvenirs, ornaments, retro toys and much more. The tightly packed-in shops are all independent ones, which gives the place a slightly chaotic but fun atmosphere. 11am-8pm • Google Maps
Ragla Magla
All clothing items and accessories are 990 yen at this shore, from blouses to bags to coats. They also have further occasional deals, such as the completely nuts 2980 yen ‘all you can pack in your shopping basket’ sale. 12am-9pm • Google Maps
New York Joe Exchange
Located in a former public bathhouse, this store has a good selection of very cheap, but good quality clothing from a variety of brands. The staff are also very knowledgeable about current fashions and are super helpful. First Sunday of every month also has a 50% off everything sale. 12am-8pm • Continue down the road from Ocean BLVD, take right at Lawson convenience store. It’s on the left side • Google Maps
Village Vanguard (ヴィレッジヴァンガード)
Another branch of the crazy pack-em-in variety store. This one is great for funny souvenirs, full of ‘only in Japan’ items as well as books and amusing costumes. Worth a visit even if you have absolutely no money to spend on shopping. 10am-midnight • Google Maps
Chicago (シカゴ)
> The largest branch in Tokyo of this used clothing store. Chicago has a load of reasonably priced clothing, from international brands to local vintage ones. They also have a large selection of used kimonos, yukatas, obi (traditional belts), Japanese slippers and related accessories. 11am-8pm • Google Maps
Caterium (キャットカフェ キャテリアム)
Chilled out cafe, with the difference being all the cats walking about! Visitors can dress up the cats in all sorts of cute clothing, or have a play using plenty of adorable toys. 1 hour 1000 yen (includes one drink) • 11am-9pm • From the north exit, head left and up past Muji. Take a right, and Caterium is just above 7-Eleven • Google Maps
Rabbit Cafe Ohisama (うさぎCafe おひさま)
While cat cafes are the most popular animal cafes in Tokyo, this smaller cafe is infested with another cute variety of animal. There are also clothes to put on the rabbits (try the kimono!) or you can have fun feeding or stroking them. 30 mins 1000 yen (includes one drink) • 12pm-8pm • From the south exit, walk down the shopping street with McDonald’s on its left. At Mister Donut, walk a bit down the narrow street on the right (on right side, 2F) • Google Maps
Uniqlo (ユニクロ)
A quieter branch of Japan’s most popular cheap clothes shop chain. 10am-9pm • Google Maps
100 yen shops
Daiso (ダイソー) - Daiso has a good shop in the small shopping mall of the above Uniqlo. 10am-9pm
Getting around
You will get lost here, at least once, but don’t worry as it’s part of the charm of Shimo-Kitazawa. If you get lost, use the map and try to retrace your steps using the various landmarks. If all is lost, head back to the station (“eki” in Japanese) and walk around it until you get to your desired station exit. It’s all very walkable.
Budget food
Apart from some chain restaurants, there are other cheap options available for food in Shimo-Kitazawa, but most budget travelers should head to Oseki supermarket.
1) CONA - Delicious ‘one coin’ pizzas, but in a stylish, laidback setting. Note that after 5pm there is a 300 yen cover charge, so come at lunch. Pizzas from 500 yen • 12am-11pm • Google Maps
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