Uncommon Grounds: The History of Coffee and How It Transformed Our World

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Uncommon Grounds: The History of Coffee and How It Transformed Our World Page 50

by Mark Pendergrast

N. W. Ayer advertising firm

  Nyerere, Julius

  Obote, Milton

  O’Donohue, Joseph J.

  O. G. Kimball & Company

  Oil

  Old Country Store, The (Carson)

  Oldenburg, Ray

  Olsen, Dave

  One-way valve bags

  Only Yesterday (Allen)

  Open Veins of Latin America (Galeano)

  Organic Crop Improvement Association (OCIA)

  Organization of American States (OAS)

  Osborn, Lewis

  Otis, James

  Ottoman Turks

  Oxford University

  Paige, Jeffrey

  Palheta, Francisco de Melo

  Palmolive Beauty Box radio show

  Panama/Panama Canal

  Pan American Coffee Bureau

  Pancafe Productores de Cafe S. A.

  Paper bags

  Papua New Guinea

  Paris

  Patman, Wright

  Pavoni, Desiderio

  Pearl Harbor

  Pease, Donald

  Peet, Alfred

  Peet’s Coffee & Tea

  Penteado, Eurico

  Pepsi-Cola

  Pepsodent toothpaste

  Peralta Gedea, Alvaro

  Percolators

  Pershing, John J. (General)

  Persia

  Peru

  Pesticides

  Phantastica: Narcotic and Stimulating Drugs (Lewin)

  Philip Morris company

  Piggly Wiggly chain

  Pinaud, Dawn

  Pioneer Steam Coffee and Spice Mills

  Popiolek, Isabela

  Portugal

  Post, Charles William

  Post, Ella

  Post, Marjorie Merriweather

  Post, Willis

  Post Toasties cereal

  Postum

  instant Postum

  Pour Your Heart Into It (Schultz)

  Poverty

  Prager, Rollinde

  Pream

  Premiums

  Prescott, Samuel C.

  Price wars. See also Coffee: prices

  Private Estate Coffee

  Proclamation for the Suppression of Coffee Houses, A (Charles II)

  Procope, François

  Procter & Gamble

  Profits

  Public relations

  Puerto Rico

  Quinn, James

  Quota systems

  Racism

  Radio. See Advertising: by radio/television

  Railways

  Rainforest Alliance

  Rain forests

  Raleigh, Henry

  Ramos, Augusto

  Ransohoff, Arthur

  Rationing

  Reagan Administration

  Reid, J. C.

  Repression

  Resor, Stanley

  Retail Grocers Advocate

  Revere, Paul

  Revolts/revolutions

  R. G. Dun firm

  Rhazes (Arabian physician)

  Rice, Paul

  Richheimer, I. D.

  Richmond, Fred

  Ríos Montt, Efraín

  Rivas, Cesar

  Roasters

  institutional roasters

  See also Coffee: roasting; National Coffee Roasters Association

  Roasters Guild

  Robinson-Patman Act

  Rockefeller, Nelson

  Romero, Oscar (Archbishop)

  Roosevelt, Eleanor

  Roosevelt, Franklin D.

  Roosevelt, Theodore

  Rorer, Sarah Tyson

  Rosée, Pasqua

  Roselius, Ludwig

  Rosenthal, Jacob

  Ross, Frank

  Ross, Irwin

  Rossiter, Cathy

  Royal Baking Powder Company

  Rubber

  Ruffner, Tiny

  Russia

  Rwanda

  Safire, William

  Saks, Claude

  Salesmanship

  Sampaio, Sebastiao

  Sanborn, James

  San Domingo

  Sandys, Sir George

  San Francisco

  earthquake and fire (1906)

  Golden Gate International Exposition

  Sanka coffee

  Satisfaction Coffee

  Saturday Evening Post

  Savarin coffee

  Scandinavian countries. See also Sweden

  Schapira, Joel, David and Karl

  Schilling, August

  Schlereth, Thomas J.

  Schmidt, Francisco

  Schoemann, Otto

  Schoenholt, Donald

  Schomer, David

  Schultz, Howard

  Science Digest

  Scientific American

  Scott, Willard

  Seal Brand Java & Mocha

  Seattle

  Sedition

  Seggerman, Mary

  Seinfeld, Jerry

  Sévigné, Marquise de

  Sexism

  Sexuality

  Shade in Coffee Culture (U.S. Department of Agriculture)

  Shade trees

  Share-croppers

  Shibata, Bunji

  Sias, Charles

  Siciliano, Alexandre

  Siegl, Zev

  Sielcken, Hermann

  Silex brewers

  Sinatra, Frank

  Skiff, Frank

  Slavery. See also Forced labor

  Slavick, Trevor

  Small Farmer Sustainability Initiative

  Smith, Margaret Chase

  Smith, Roger Nolley

  Smith, Traver

  Smuggling

  Social status

  Soft drinks. See also Coca-Cola; Pepsi-Cola

  Somoza García, Anastasio

  Songs

  Spain

  Spanish-American War

  Special Commission on Coffee

  Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA)

  embezzlement in

  Speculators

  Spice Mill (trade journal)

  Spindler, Susie

  Stamberg, Susan

  Stamp Act of 1765

  Standard Brands

  Starbucks

  critics of

  Starbucks Passion for Coffee (Olsen)

  States and Social Evolution (Williams)

  Stiller, Bob

  Stock market crash (1929)

  Suez Canal

  Sugar

  Sumatra

  Superior Tea & Coffee Company

  Supermarkets

  Supreme Court, U. S.

  Surveys

  Sustainable Coffee Criteria Group

  Sustainable Harvest

  Swann, Sandy

  Sweden

  Swift, Jonathan

  Swift & Company

  Switzerland

  Tanganyika

  Taster’s Choice coffee

  Tattler and Spectator newspapers

  Taxation

  Tchibo company

  Tea

  Tea & Coffee Trade Journal

  TechnoServe

  Teenagers

  Television. See Advertising: by radio/television

  Tenco

  Theodor Wille & Company

  Thompson, Benjamin (Count Rumford)

  Thurber, Francis

  Time magazine

  Tobacco

  Topik, Steven

  Torrebiarte, Peter

  Torture

  To Think of Coffee (Meagher)

  Town Hall Tonight radio show

  Trade

  TransFair USA

  Trichloroethylene (TCE)

  Trigg, Charles

  Turkey

  Twain, Mark

  Ubico Castañeda, Jorge

  Uganda

  Ukers, William

  Understanding Caffeine (J. James)

  United Fruit Company

  United Nations

  Food and Agriculture Organization

  United
States

  Agency for International Development (USAID)

  Agriculture Department

  CIA

  Civil War

  coffee consumption in

  Commodity Futures Trading Commission

  Federal Trade Commission (FTC)

  first national advertising in

  Food Administration

  Food and Drug Administration

  Grain Stabilization Board

  and International Coffee Agreement

  Justice Department

  Money Trust congressional investigation

  Office of Price Administration (OPA)

  Prohibition in

  Pure Food and Drugs Act

  reexports of coffee by

  Revolutionary War

  State Department

  Trinity coffee barons in

  U. S. Marines

  Untermyer, Samuel

  Urena, Daniel

  Uribe, Andrés

  Utz Kapeh Good Inside

  Vacuum packaging

  Valdivieso, Ricardo “Rick,”

  Vargas, Getúlio

  Vending machines

  Venezuela

  Versailles Treaty

  Vertical integration

  Victorian America: Transformations in

  Everyday Life, 1876-1915

  (Schlereth)

  Vienna

  Vietnam

  Violent Neighbors (Buckley)

  Visser, Margaret

  Wages. See also Incomes

  Wakeman, Abram

  Wall Street Journal

  War of 1812

  Washington Post

  Watson, John B.

  Webb, Ewing

  Webster, Daniel

  Wechsler, Philip

  Weissman, Michaele

  Welker, Scott

  Wells, Sumner

  Wendroth, Clara

  West, Mae

  West Indies

  W. H. Crossman & Brother/Son

  Wheat

  Wheatley, Richard

  Whitaker, José Maria

  Wickersham, George

  Wilde, James

  Wiley, Harvey

  Wilkins Coffee

  Williams, Robert

  Wine

  With Broadax and Firebrand: The Destruction of the Brazilian Atlantic Forest (Dean)

  Woman’s Day

  Women

  in advertising

  pregnant women

  See also Sexism

  Women’s Petition Against Coffee (1674)

  Woodruff, Robert

  Woodward, Helen

  Woolson Spice Company

  World Trade Organization

  World War I

  World War II

  W. R. Grace & Company

  Yemen

  Young, James Webb

  Young, John Orr

  Young, Robert

  Yuban coffee

  Yuppies

  Zabar, Saul

  Zaire

  Zelaya, José Santos (General)

  1 Rhazes was really named Abu Bakr Muhammad ibn Zakariya El Razi, and Avicenna was Abu Ali al-Husayn ibn Abd Allah ibn Sina.

  2 Some Viennese were undoubtedly familiar with coffee prior to Kolschitzky’s exploits, since the Turks established an embassy in Vienna in 1665. Johannes Diodato secured a permit to open a coffeehouse in Vienna in 1685, apparently prior to Kolschitzky.

  3 “Oh, Daddy, don’t be such a drag,” a modern librettist translates the cantata. “If I don’t get my coffee fix three times a day, I’ll die!”

  4 The Dutch stock from which de Clieu’s tree sprang was known as typica. Though his tree was seminal, de Clieu was not the first to bring coffee to the Caribbean. The Dutch had introduced coffee into their colony of Dutch Guinea in South America, while the French grew it in French Guinea. The French were also responsible for another important coffee variety. In 1718 on the island of Bourbon (now called Réunion, in the Indian Ocean), they successfully planted seeds from Yemen, giving rise to the strain known as bourbon.

  5 Chicory had been used as a coffee adulterant as far back as 1688, but the French habit became ingrained during the Napoleonic era.

  6 Most Brazilian coffee is still stripped rather than selectively harvested, then “dry” processed. Some things have changed, however: mechanical harvesting is now possible on flat Brazilian farms, different types of trees now grow there, and many huge fazendas have given way to smaller lots. Also, the Brazilian specialty coffee industry has produced truly gourmet beans.

  7 Some consumers got used to the Rioy flavor, however, and came to prize it.

  8 Coffee was a “monoculture” as an export crop. In fact, colonos frequently grew subsistence crops between the coffee trees.

  9 Indeed, Francisco Schmidt, a German immigrant in the 1880s, eventually came to own twenty huge fazendas with 16 million coffee trees, a private railway and phone system, and thousands of colonos.

  10 The Mayan Indians were not—and are not—a homogeneous group. There are some twenty-eight peoples, including the Quiche, Cakchiquel, Kekchi, Ixil, and Mam. Although scattered throughout Guatemala, most reside in the western highlands.

  11 Coffee as an export crop developed relatively late in Central America because square-rigged ships, then in use, could only travel downwind easily. The trade winds from the Atlantic blew ships westward toward the coast of Central America, but there was no easy way to sail back east. The advent of clipper ships, which could sail closer to the wind, and then steamships, made coffee exports more feasible.

  12 A ladino in Guatemala generally refers to someone with mixed European and Indian blood, or a mestizo. Pure-blooded Indians could also become ladinos, however, if they adopted Western dress and lifestyles.

  13 From 1890 to 1892, 1,200 laborers from the Gilbert Islands of the Pacific were brought by blackbirders, or slavers, to work on the coffee plantations of Guatemala. Fewer than 800 survived the trip, and a third of these died in the first year. The last of the survivors were finally returned to the Gilbert Islands in 1908.

  14 Of course, not all finca owners abused their laborers. On many plantations in Brazil, Guatemala, and elsewhere, enlightened owners treated workers as humanely as possible, paid higher than standard wages, and provided some medical care. Even in such cases, however, the Indians remained poor peons, with little hope of upward mobility, while the owners lived in relative affluence.

  15 Costa Rica had no dye industry (indigo or cochineal) because during the colonial period the Spanish would not allow it. Costa Rica thus had motivation to try coffee before Guatemala, and it was Costa Rica that pioneered new growing and processing techniques. Where Indians did remain in Costa Rica, however, as in Orosi, they were dispossessed of their land just as in Guatemala.

  16 Nonetheless, at least early American coffee was fresh roasted. “To have it very good, it should be roasted immediately before it is made,” wrote Eliza Leslie in an 1837 cookbook, “doing no more than the quantity you want at that time.” Another 1845 writer advised, “Do not let it boil,” but she was a voice crying in the wilderness.

  17 See the end of chapter 1 for a description of the 1823 coffee crisis.

  18 The New York roaster Lewis Osborn was actually the first to sell packaged coffee. Osborn’s Celebrated Prepared Java Coffee came on the market in 1860, but it disappeared three years later, killed by the war economy.

  19 Abiah Folger was Benjamin Franklin’s mother.

  20 Coffee adulteration was also prevalent in Europe. While traveling on the continent in 1878, Mark Twain objected to European coffee that “resembles the real thing as hypocrisy resembles holiness.”

  21 Few agree about whether aged beans taste better. Generally, aging reduces the acidity, or brightness, of a cup of coffee. Aging therefore is usually considered inappropriate for the snappy high-grown coffees of Central America or the blander Brazils, but it enhances the heavy body of a Sumatra or Mysore.

  22 The tax reduction was worded vaguely due to Puerto Rica
n concerns. After Puerto Rico became an American protectorate in 1898, its coffee industry suffered terribly—not only from a devastating cyclone in 1899, but also because the former Spanish colony could no longer export its beans duty-free to Spain. For years the Puerto Ricans, as well as the Hawaiians—where coffee cultivation began in 1825—lobbied U.S. politicians to impose a protective tariff on all other “foreign” coffee, in order to encourage the “domestic” coffee industry. They never succeeded.

  23 Kellogg may not have liked coffee, but he liked Post’s rip-off even less. “Most coffee substitutes consist of cereals in some form combined with molasses and roasted, [which] develops in these substitutes poisonous phenolic and other smoke products the same as are produced in ordinary coffee.” He complained later that Post had “made some millions by the sale of a cheap mixture of bran and molasses.”

  24 Post wrote in I Am Well! that “whisky, morphine, tobacco, coffee, excessive animal passions, and other unnatural conditions” contributed to ill health. Post knew about “animal passions,” bedding an associate’s wife and siring two children by her in 1894 and 1896.

  25 In his later years Post left the creation of new products to others. His cousin, Willis Post, who headed the British outpost, invented instant Postum in 1911, obviating the need to boil the drink for twenty minutes.

  26 In eighteenth-century Sweden twin brothers were sentenced to death for murder. King Gustav III commuted it to life sentences in order to study the then-controversial effects of tea and coffee. One brother drank large daily doses of tea, the other, coffee. The tea drinker died first, at eighty-three.

  27 For an assessment of coffee’s effect on health, see chapter 19.

  28 See chapter 8 for a detailed account of the G. Washington brand, the most successful early instant coffee.

  29 “The air was thick with an all-embracing odor,” wrote Gerald Carson in The Old Country Store, “an aroma composed of dry herbs and wet dogs, or strong tobacco, green hides and raw humanity.” Bulk roasted coffee absorbed all such smells.

  30 Mail-order houses also made incursions into the retail coffee market. The 1897 Sears Roebuck Catalog, for instance, offered green, whole-roasted, or roasted ground coffees.

  31 The patriarch of the business, George Huntington Hartford, died in 1917 at the age of eighty-four. George Gilman died in 1901.

 

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