by Guy Fieri
WEST AND SOUTHWEST
RED IGUANA
EST. 1985 THE KILLER HOLY MOLE
My first job in the restaurant business was at a Mexican restaurant in Ferndale, California. Now, I live in California, so you know I love Mexican food, but especially places that are doing it right—like this place in Salt Lake City, where they’re making seven different kinds of mole. Holy mole!
* * *
TRACK IT DOWN
736 W. North Temple
Salt Lake City, Utah 84116
801-322-1489
www.rediguana.com
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“Mole” means sauce, and it’s a favorite in Mexico for parties and celebrations. They’ve been doing moles here since 1985, when Lucy Cardenas’s parents, Maria and Ramón, opened the place. The Cardenases originally came to Salt Lake from San Francisco in 1965 to open the Casa Grande restaurant. Lucy and her husband, Bill Coker, took over Red Iguana a few years ago, and yes, they’re doing seven or eight moles every day, with nuts, herbs, chiles, spices, and more.
The mole negro is the king of moles, says Lucy, and she makes it in fifteen-gallon batches, with a list of ingredients (recipe on Mole Negro with Chicken) that will blow your mind—even avocado leaves. (That’s it, we had now entered the boundaries of “I’ve never cooked with avocado leaves—next we’ll be cooking with my sock.”) It’s a heck of a family recipe. She served it to me on a bean-filled corn tortilla, and you get this sweet and heat…my taste buds rocked! And remember, that’s just one of her moles: the green mole is great on the chicken enchiladas; there’s Suizas, mole poblano with chiles, fruit, nuts, and a touch of chocolate; and there’s an almond mole served with another Red Iguana specialty, puntas de filete a la norteña, which is chopped sirloin tips served with bacon, jalapeño, onion, and tomato. Wow, that’s hot, and it’s like a creamy soup.
Lucy’s even making her own chorizo, which she serves in her tacos Don Ramón. She starts with granulated garlic, onion, pepper, powdered oregano, thyme, marjoram, allspice, cinnamon, cayenne, paprika, New Mexican red chile powder, salt, bay leaves, and vinegar. (At least this won’t be lacking in flavor; it would be good on Styrofoam peanuts.) Then she adds coarse-ground pork and leaves it in the refrigerator for about a day. For the tacos she starts with some chopped sirloin seared in a bit of oil on the grill. She sprinkles on some New Mexico powder (garlic and salt) and then adds the chorizo on top. She puts on her tortillas to heat (after dipping them in oil to make them more pliable) and puts some of the chorizo oil in the tortillas to give them a shot of color and seasoning. She puts some shredded lettuce and queso atop the meat in the tacos, with some avocado salsa and pico de gallo on the side. Love, peace, and taco grease—delicious. The chorizo’s fantastic, the meat is nice and tender, and I didn’t get anything on my wardrobe—that was a miracle.
* * *
[GUY ASIDE]
I’ve never seen a place that did so many moles. Everybody thinks of mole as a one-shot deal, but they had all kinds—they really covered the depth of Mexican food. The hot tub of Flavortown belongs to the Iguana.
Salt Lake was quite the adventure; the diversity is crazy. When I hit SLC again, you’ll probably find me at the RI.
* * *
FIFTY GALLONS OF MOLE…FOR MY CAMARO. LEMME THINK ABOUT IT…
Mole Negro with Chicken
ADAPTED FROM A RECIPE COURTESY OF LUCY CARDENAS AND BILL COKER OF THE RED IGUANA
Spend some time with the king of moles.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Chicken with Mole Negro
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
6 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves
Kosher salt to taste
3 to 4 cups Mole Negro (recipe follows)
12 (8-inch) flour tortillas, warm
1. Heat a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the oil. Season the chicken breasts with salt and cook until golden brown on both sides, about 3 minutes per side.
2. Add enough mole to just about cover the chicken and simmer 12 minutes. Serve with warm flour tortillas.
Mole Negro
7 pasilla negro chiles
6 mulatto chiles
1 quart (4 cups) hot water
½ cup vegetable oil, plus more for cooking the chicken
1 (8-inch) flour tortilla, roughly torn, plus more for serving
1 overripe plantain or banana, roughly chopped
1 small poblano chile, stemmed and roughly chopped, seeds removed
5 cherry tomatoes, halved
4 garlic cloves
¼ yellow onion
½ cup raisins
6 whole sprigs of fresh epazote
3 whole sprigs of cilantro
1/3 cup roughly chopped walnuts, toasted
1/3 cup salted peanuts, toasted
2 ounces Mexican chocolate, roughly chopped
1 bay leaf
1 avocado leaf
½ teaspoon black peppercorns
½ teaspoon coriander seeds
¼ teaspoon cumin seeds
¼ teaspoon anise seed
¾ teaspoon dried marjoram
¾ teaspoon dried thyme
1 whole clove
½ cinnamon stick
¼ cup sugar
Kosher salt
1. Remove the stems and seeds from the pasilla and mulatto chiles, then let them soak in the hot water for 20 minutes.
2. Heat ¼ cup of the vegetable oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Toast the tortilla in the hot oil until golden brown. Add the plantain or banana, poblano, tomatoes, garlic, onion, raisins, epazote, and cilantro and sauté until the poblano and onion soften.
Add all the nuts, the chiles with their soaking water, the chocolate, bay and avocado leaves, peppercorns, coriander, cumin, and anise seeds, marjoram, thyme, clove, and cinnamon stick. Simmer for 10 minutes.
3. Remove the bay leaf and the clove and cinnamon stick. Transfer the mole to a blender and puree (carefully, it’s hot) until smooth. If the mixture is too thick, add some hot water to thin; it should be the consistency of tomato sauce.
4. Heat ¼ cup oil in a deep skillet over high heat. Pour in the mole, being careful not to spatter yourself with the hot oil. Stir in the sugar and some salt, reduce the heat slightly, and let simmer for 15 minutes.
THE BEGINNING OF “HOLY MOLE.” YEAH!
Acknowledgments
Just like the show, they’re a ton of people who play a role in the creation of this book:
First and foremost, huge thanks to my wife, Lori, and sons, Hunter and Ryder.
My Knuckle Sandwich team: Tom Nelson (consigliere), Korina McAlister (culinary handler), Roni Brown (chief of staff), Kleetus Cox (right-hand man), Dirty P. Thompson (left-hand man), and the rest of “da krew!”
Many thanks to the unbelievably great Page Production crew: creator and executive producer, David “Klinger” Page, Roberta Brackman, the horse jumping Hannah, Maria Carrera, Kat Higgins, Ryan Dodge, Drew Sondeland, Brad Keely, Kathryn Browning, Wade Barry, Ian Logan, Jeff Mandell, Erin Halden, Elizabeth Winter, Jamie Vincent, Rick Berland, Kris Ausan, David Canada, Bryna Levin, Jeremy Green, Kari Kloster, Neil Martin, Ron Gabaldon, Jeff Assell, Matt Giovinetti, Mark Farrell, Mike Morris, Anthony Rodriguez, Kate Gibson, and Craig Alreck.
My agents: Jason “Mcguire” Hodes, Jeff “Hack” Google, Michelle “Michi” Bernstein, and assistants Brittney and Meg. And thanks to my literary agent, Dorian Karchmar.
From the Food Network: production executives Brian Lando and Jordan Harman, as well as Susan Stockton, Danielle LaRosa, and Ashley Archer from the Culinary Department. Miriam Garron who wrote, translated, or edited much of the recipe material that crossed her desk and managed a sterling team of Food Network recipe testers: Morgan Haas, Jay P. Brooks, Vincent Camillo, Santos Loo, Young Sun Huh, and Brook Herrit, along with Maryann Pomeranz, Enrique S. Gatchalian, and Theresa Lee.
From HarperCollins: many thanks to editor Cassie (“the Machine”) Jones and editorial assistant, Jessica D
eputato, as well as Liate Stehlik, Mary Ellen O’Neill, Lynn Grady, Tavia Kowalchuk, Brianne Halverson, Joyce Wong, Paula Szafranski, Kris Tobiassen, and Karen Lumley. And many thanks to Emeril Lagasse, “the Man.”
My “sista from anotha mista” Ann Volkwein. Every once in a while you get a chance to meet and work with someone that really gets your attitude, energy, and focus. I am so fortunate to have Ann on my team. I really appreciate all that she can capture in my wild style.
To Chevrolet, for makin the sooooo money ’67 Camaro…. What a great ride.
And finally, thanks to all the great chefs, staff, and restaurant owners that make Triple D off da hook!
Recipe Index
BREAKFAST
Blue Cornmeal Waffles
Chipped Beef
Chop and Chick
Corned Beef Hash
Magnolia Cafe Gingerbread Pancakes
SamSon Steak Sandwich
Schultzie’s Mess
Scrapple
Whole Wheat Pancakes
BURGERS AND SANDWICHES
Cheddar Cheese Burgers with Jezebel Sauce
Eggplant Parmigiana Sandwich
Home-style Roast Beef Sandwich with Gravy
Latin-Spiced Lamb Burgers
Lobster Sandwich
Paradise Pup Merkts Cheddar Burger
Mike’s City Diner’s Famous Pilgrim Sandwich
Old-School G & A Sliders
SamSon Steak Sandwich
Sausage Sandwich
Spider Sandwich (Soft-Shell-Crab Po’Boy)
CONDIMENTS AND SAUCES
Jezebel Sauce
Marinara Sauce
Roasted Pineapple Habañero Salsa
Sweet Relish
Uncle Lou’s Sweet Spicy Love
Wilson’s Barbeque Award-Winning Eastern Carolina Vinegar Sauce
STARTERS
Arancini
BBQ Shack Chicken Wings
Beacon Drive-In Pimento Cheese
Jalapeño Poppers
Oyster Stew Casamento’s
Pasta-Rella Highlander Style
DINNER MAINS
Baked Mostaccioli
Bar-B-Q King Fried Chicken
Beef Picadillo Empanadas
Big Jim’s Meatballs
Blackened Salmon with Tomato Butter
Brunswick Stew
Carne Adovada Tacos
Cemitas Puebla Steak Tacos with Salsa Verde
Chicken and Andouille Gumbo
Chicken Enchiladas
Chicken Tamarillo Arepa
Crawfish Étouffée
Dari-ette Meataballas
El Salvadoran Beef Pupusas
Eric Westphal’s Ragu with Polenta with Gorgonzola
Haluski
Hob Nob Hill Old-Fashioned Chicken ’n’ Dumplings
Italian Roast Beef
Italian Roast Beef Pizza
Maui Tacos
Mole Negro with Chicken
Picadillo
Pizzeria Luigi Mona Lisa Pizza
Pork Chops Giambotta
Sauerbraten
Smoked Barbecue Meatloaf
The Turducken
Tommy’s Joynt Lamb Shanks
Uncle Lou’s Fried Chicken
SIDES
Beacon Lightly Breaded Onion Rings
Black-Eyed Peas Salad
Fresh-cut Fries
Fried Potato Salad
Gorilla Mac and Cheese
Holy Haluski
Mike’s City Diner Stuffing
SWEETS
Apple Pie
Beaunilla Cheesecake
Rice Pudding
List of Restaurants
Here’s a list of all the terrific restaurants that have been shown on Diners, Drive-ins and Dives. The restaurants with two asterisks are featured in this book and the restaurants with one asterisk were in the first book. But you gotta visit ’em all!
A1 DINER*
3 Bridge Street
Gardiner, ME 04345
207-582-4804
www.a1diner.com/menus
ALCENIA’S
317 N. Main Street
Memphis, TN 38103
901-523-0200
ALPINE STEAKHOUSE**
4520 S. Tamiami Trail
Sarasota, FL 34231
941-922-3797
www.alpinesteak.com
AL’S BREAKFAST*
413 14th Avenue S.E.
Minneapolis, MN 55414
612-331-9991
AMATO’S CAFE**
6405 Center Street
Omaha, NE 68016
402-558-5010
BABY BLUES BBQ*
444 Lincoln Boulevard
Venice, CA 90291
310-396-7675
www.babybluesvenice.com
BACKROAD PIZZA
1807 2nd Street
Santa Fe, NM 87505
505-955-9055
www.backroadpizza.com
BAR GERNIKA
202 South Capitol Boulevard
Boise, ID 83714
208-344-2175
www.bargernika.com
BAR-B-Q KING**
2900 Wilkinson Boulevard
Charlotte, NC 28208
704-399-8344
www.barbaking.com
BAYWAY DINER*
2019 S. Wood Avenue
Linden, NJ 07036
908-862-3207
BBQ SHACK**
1613 E. Peoria Street
Paola, KS 66071
913-294-5908
www.thebbqshack.com
BEACON DRIVE-IN**
255 John B. White Sr. Boulevard
Spartanburg, SC 29306
864-585-9387
www.beacondrivein.com
BENNY’S SEAFOOD*
2500 SW 107th Avenue
Miami, FL 33165
305-227-1232
BERT’S BURGER BAR
235 N. Guadalupe Street
Santa Fe, NM 87501
505-982-0215
BIG JIM’S IN THE RUN**
201 Saline Street
Pittsburgh, PA 15207
412-421-0532
www.bigjimsrestaurant.com
BIG MAMA’S KITCHEN & CATERING
3223 N. 45th Street
Turning Point Campus, Building A
Omaha, NE 68104
402-455-6262
www.bigmamaskitchen.com
BIG STAR DINER
305 Madison Avenue North
Bainbridge Island, WA 98110
206-842-5786
BIZZARRO
1307 N. 46th Street
Seattle, WA 98103
206-632-7277
www.bizzarroitaliancafe.com
BLOW FLY INN
1201 Washington Avenue
Gulfport, MS 39507
228-896-9812
www.blowflyinn.com
BLUE MOON CAFÉ*
1621 Aliceanna Street
Baltimore, MD 21231
410-522-3940
BLUE PLATE DINER
2041 S. 2100 Street East
Salt Lake City, UT 84108
801-463-1151
BLUE WATER SEAFOOD MARKET AND GRILL
3667 India Street
San Diego, CA 92103
619-497-0914
BOBBY’S HAWAIIAN STYLE RESTAURANT*
1011 Hewitt Avenue West
Everett, WA 98201
425-259-1338
www.bobbyshawaiianstylerestaurant.com
BOBO DRIVE-IN**
2300 S.W. 10th Avenue
Topeka, KS 66604
785-234-4511
BRANDY’S RESTAURANT AND BAKERY
1500 E. Cedar Avenue
Flagstaff, AZ 86004
928-779-2187
www.brandysrestaurant.com
BREWBURGER’S
4629 S. 108th Street
Omaha, NE
402-614-7644
www.brewburgersomaha.com
BRICK OVEN PIZZA
800 S. Broadway
>
Baltimore, MD 21231
410-563-1600
www.boppizza.com
BRINT’S DINER
4834 E. Lincoln Street
Wichita, KS 67218
316-684-0290
BROADWAY DINER
6501 Eastern Avenue
Baltimore, MD 21224
410-631-5666
www.broadwaydiner1.com
BROWNSTONE DINER AND PANCAKE FACTORY*
426 Jersey Avenue
Jersey City, NJ 07302
201-433-0471
www.brownstonediner.com
BRYANT-LAKE BOWL
801 W. Lake Street
Minneapolis, MN 55408
612-825-3737
www.bryantlakebowl.com
BYWAYS CAFE
1212 NW Glisan Street
Portland, OR 97209
503-221-0011
www.bywayscafe.com
CABBAGETOWN MARKET
198 Carroll Street
Atlanta, GA 30312
404-221-9186
www.cabbagetownmarkt.com
CAFE ON THE ROUTE**
1101 Military Avenue
Baxter Springs, KS 66713
620-856-5646
www.cafeontheroute.com
CAFE ROLLE
5737 H Street
Sacramento, CA 95819
916-455-9140
www.caferolle.com
CALIFORNIA TACOS & MORE**
3235 California Street
Omaha, NE 68131
402-342-0212
www.californiatacosandmore.com
CAPTAIN CHUCK-A MUCK’S
21088 Marina Road
Rescue, VA 23424
757-356-1005
www.captainchuck-a-mucks.com
CASAMENTO’S RESTAURANT**
4330 Magazine Street
New Orleans, LA 70115
504-895-9761
www.casamentosrestaurant.com
CASINO EL CAMINO
517 E. 6th Street
Austin, TX 78701
512-469-9330
www.casinoelcamino.net
CECILIA’S CAFE
230 6th Street S.W.
Albuquerque, NM 87102
505-243-7070
CEMITAS PUEBLA**
3619 W. North Avenue
Chicago, IL 60647
773-772-8435
www.cemitaspuebla.com
CENTRAL CITY CAFÉ
529 14th Street West
Huntington, WV 25704
304-522-6142
CHAP’S PIT BEEF*
