by Scott Fisher
SK soldiers checking us out.
Photo courtesy Thomas St. John
After a few minutes looking around and snapping pictures inside the building, we were hustled out and taken back into the main North Korean building overlooking the area. That's where we were able to get a lot of these pictures. That's also where Mr. Huk and I nearly got into a fight.
Main North Korean building facing the border in the JSA (notice the four cameras)
Photo courtesy Thomas St. John
The building I'm standing in front of, above, is directly opposite the large South Korean building pictured further above, in the photos looking south. The picture below is from one of the visitor's rooms inside the North's building.
The two Kims watch over the main visitor's room
Photo courtesy Thomas St. John
Why is this important? What does it have to do with me nearly getting into a fight with Mr. Huk? The key is to show that the building I'm standing in front of is actually a real building.
The first time I took the DMZ tour from the South (in 1992), and on subsequent tours up until the mid-90s, the U.S. soldier leading the tour would tell everyone the North's was not a real building. Instead it was "a facade designed to look large and impressive, but is in reality only a frame a few feet (one meter) thick." As the only view of the building at that time was from the direct front, there was no way to confirm the thickness. Unless you visited the North.
While looking over the area from the balcony, I told Mr. Huk that story, about how we weren't actually standing in a 'real' building. His reaction was immediate and will forever serve as my personal definition of 'venomous'.
"Now you can see the lies! The lies of the American imperialists and their South Korean puppets!" He literally spat this out. Foam flew from his lips he was so incensed. "Someday you will discover the truth about everything! They only tell you lies! Lies!"
"Ah, yes Mr. Huk, there are many lies in the world. I hope I'm there when you discover the truth also." I decided to have a little fun with the smug little bastard. My words had him bug-eyed with rage. Veins popped from his forehead.
"Me?! It is YOU who needs to discover the truth. I already know the truth!"
"There are many truths. I hope we are together when they are all discovered." At this point he'd lost all self-control and was right in my face, screaming in a frustrated combination of English and Korean.
"You don't know what you are talking about! WE know! YOU don't know!"
"Yes, and there are some things we know that you don't. Hopefully I can be there when you find them out."
By this point our conversation had begun to attract a lot of attention from the other guides. Even if you didn't know both languages, it was very obvious something heated was taking place. That was when Mr. Baek, the more experienced guide, walked between us and urged everyone to head back inside and get on with the tour. Eye contact broken, and reminded of 'The Schedule', Mr. Huk walked back in, obviously upset at his failure to convince me of all the lies.
The main thing I took away from the whole episode, was why would the U.S. Army guides give the North this kind of ammunition in the first place?
As we filed back into the room pictured above right, Mr. Huk was telling the other guides my story of 'the lies' told on the South's tour. Though they found it interesting, none had quite the fervor as young Mr. Huk. The main DMZ on-site guide and I had already had a couple of brief conversations and, after he listened to Mr. Huk, seemed to find my story interesting and, for some reason, evidence of some sort of trustworthiness. After a couple more questions about the South, he asked me to sign their guestbook. Which, from the way it came about, was not something he normally asked.
At this point one of our normal guides, the one most obviously a Worker's Party official assigned to overlook things, warned everyone to be careful. "You never know what an American might write in that thing." When the DMZ guide went ahead and led me over to the book, a little crowd of guides and soldiers gathered around to make sure I wasn't writing anything negative. I decided against the 'down with your idiot dictator' line and instead wrote something about hoping for a quick and peaceful unification. The fact that I wrote it in Korean (and thankfully didn't make any stupid spelling mistakes) went over very well. The main DMZ guide gave me a pat on the back and a handshake. And then kept talking to me about the South and the U.S. presence there.
"When do you think the U.S. soldiers will leave so we can have unification?"
"Well, the South's a democracy. I guess when they vote to kick us out we'll leave."
"Still, doesn't the fact they haven't done that yet show you how they really are American lackeys?"
"Either that or it shows they don't want you invading them again."
This last comment got me an amused smirk. It was obvious we both wanted to continue the conversation in a less crowded setting, but for now it was not to be. This guy, probably in his mid-40s, had obviously had a lot more exposure to the outside world than any of our, much younger, guides. I found out later that guards along the border could, most likely very secretly, pick up South Korean broadcasts. Unfortunately 'The Schedule' once again intruded and we had to move on, negating what would have been an interesting conversation.
Plaque commemorating Kim Il-sung's visit to the JSA, shortly before he died in 1994
Photo courtesy Dan Harmon
The other part of our DMZ tour included visits to the building where the armistice ending the Korean War was signed, plus a visit to a small museum presenting the North's view on the war and subsequent life along the DMZ. All this was led by the main DMZ guide, with translations provided by our normal guides.
This part of the tour was interesting for getting a clearer view of the North's take on the war and its role in it. The museum allowed them to put their own perspective on the war, who started it, how it ended, and what's taken place since.
Korean War peace talks building - the red sign says the place was graced by the presence of Kim Jong-il.
Photo courtesy Thomas St. John
The wackiest idea here is that the U.S. and South have erected a giant, unscalable wall entirely across their side of the DMZ. Oddly, I have yet to see this mysterious wall during numerous motorcycle drives near the DMZ and my 10-plus years in Korea. Now why would the North want to tell its people there's a wall between them and the South?
The 'American imperialists are to blame for everything bad' line was laid on pretty thick during this part of the tour. Always with the aside that it was the U.S. military they hated, not the American people. As if the U.S. military is not made up of American people. Most of us had lived in the South long enough to have heard both sides, but for the Japanese and Chinese on the tour there was nothing to balance the North's version. We got some very nasty looks on this part of the trip.
Stele commemorating the signing of the ceasefire in July, 1953
Photo courtesy Dan Harmon
The translation is quite interesting: It was here on July 27, 1953 that the American imperialists got down on their knees before the heroic Chosun people to sign the ceasefire for the war they had provoked June 25, 1950.
North Korean and United Nations flags
Photos courtesy Dan Harmon
Here you can see the ceasefire agreement and flags of the North Korean and UN armies (no sign of a Chinese flag for their army). On the left is the North Korean flag and the ceasefire agreement in Korean, while on the right is the UN flag and the agreement in English. The key is to look carefully at the two flags. The guides enjoyed pointing out that even though it had been 50 years since the war ended, the colors of the North Korean flag hadn't ran and were still perfect. Whereas the colors of the blue UN flag had dissolved into a mottled brown.
"We have never opened the glass cases in all the 50 years they have been sitting here. It shows the strength and true character of our flag." And if you can't trust a North Korean tour guide at a propaganda museum, who can you trust?
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A large part of the rest of the museum is devoted to showing U.S. imperialism, U.S. fault for the Korean War, U.S. fault for the ongoing division of Korea, U.S. fault for the sun getting in your eyes one a bright day, U.S. fault for the rain being too wet . . . you get the idea. It was interesting to watch our two guides during all this. Mr. Huk, the younger guide on his first visit, was obviously getting rather worked up. He kept trying to, "show us the truth." Mr. Baek, the older guide, mostly seemed to be concerned with moving us along and keeping to 'The Schedule'.
Museum Tour
Photo courtesy Dan Harmon
Above you can see the guide pointing out evidence of U.S. aggression, infiltration, etc. The pictures below are of Americans being captured (how did the photographers know when to be there?). No mention is made of the NK tunnels under the DMZ.
American 'infiltrators'
Photo courtesy Dan Harmon
Mention is made, however, of recent joint NK-US efforts to locate the remains of MIA U.S. soldiers. Mr. Huk was very proud of this act of kindness and was quite surprised (and then decided not to believe me) when I told him the U.S. was forced to pay for this service.
Ax from the infamous 'Tree-Cutting Incident'
Photo courtesy Dan Harmon
This is the "military ax" the North took from a group of American soldiers attempting to cut down a tree in the DMZ in August, 1976. The incident gets a lot of attention on tours from both the North and South. The Americans were attacked and two killed by a group of North Korean soldiers who used the ax and club shown above to hack and beat the U.S. soldiers to death. The Southern tour stresses the brutality of the North, the North stresses the 'illegality' of the tree-cutting.
Close-up of North Korean (left) and South Korean soldiers.
Photos courtesy Thomas St. John
Notice the North Korean soldier, even on a hot summer day, wearing a long-sleeve winter uniform. While his Southern counterpart, apparently wearing a helmet borrowed from his big brother, gets to keep cool in short-sleeves and shades. If you look closely you can also see the Kim Il-sung pin over the heart of the North Korean.
As the tour wound down it made everyone look forward to revisiting from the Southern side, especially to see if they were still saying we had been in a 'fake' building (they aren't). I also got a chance to say good-bye to the DMZ guard/guide I had been able to talk to during our visit. We both promised to resume our conversation again at a more propitious time. After that it was back on the bus for the short trip to the beautiful, traditional city of Kaesong.
Traditional Kaesong and the Koryo Museum
Kaesong, located just a short trip from the DMZ, was once the capital of the whole country, back during the Koryo (the origin of the word "Korea") dynasty. At the time it was famous for artistic development, Buddhism, and the beauty of its women. Though not many traditional areas remain, the North has preserved and restored a small area of buildings that now mainly serve as restaurants. The sudden trip back into a quieter, more traditional Korea, especially after the modern mess of the DMZ, makes for a radical change of atmosphere.
The buildings shown below are only 15-20 minutes from the DMZ, but seem a world away. The lunch was done in a traditional style with everyone sitting on the floor, while dishes served by women in traditional hanbok gradually filled up the tables in front of us. The only thing that seemed out of place (other than us) was the meat. Having dined on dog meat numerous times in the South, most of us agreed that we probably weren't eating beef. Squeamish diners beware - nothing says you're eating dog like having little hairs poking out of the fatty parts of the meat.
Walking through a small, traditional part of Kaesong to our restaurant.
Photo courtesy Dan Harmon
Sitting inside the old, restored house, I couldn't believe I was in the North, especially so close to the border. It reminded me of similar historic areas in the South. After the meal, questionable though the meat may have been, and a short walk through the area, it was easy to imagine this place becoming quite popular with South Korean tourists should the border ever reopen. Especially given Kaesong's reputation as a well-heeled place of wine, women and song.
Of course, based on Kaesong's fame as the home of beautiful kisaeng (kind of a Korean geisha), I would also bet that parts of this area could become a well-known red light district, post-reunification. Perhaps a more traditional, upscale version of Seoul's well-known Chongnyangni and Miari red light areas.
Below, you can see another of the restaurants in the restored area, this one specializing in noodles. Unfortunately 'The Schedule' prevented us from trying any of the other places, or even enjoying a leisurely walk. After a quick stop at a souvenir shop, it was back on the bus and off to the Koryo Museum.
Noodle Restaurant, Kaesong
Photo courtesy Dan Harmon
Far more typical building in Kaesong - the sign carries a message quite common on buildings and roadways in the North. Roughly translated it says 'Whatever the Great Comrade Kim Jong-il Decides, We Do!' It also uses the "high form" of the word 'comrade'. Though the term comrade was originally meant to express equality, the nature of hierarchy in Korean, especially the North Korean version of the language, demands that even this word have a lower and an upper form to avoid upsetting the hierarchy and appearing disrespectful.
Photo courtesy Thomas St. John
Rear building of the Koryo Museum
Photo courtesy Dan Harmon
The museum was only a short ride away from Kaesong and offered a peaceful, natural setting. The place was empty of other tourists and, other than the pleasant grounds, really didn't offer much to see. What made the museum interesting, as shown in the photos below, was the way local people were using the quiet, green expanse of the palace for their own pursuits.
The picture below, purporting to show the prices of various slaves in the Chosun dynasty, addresses one of the touchier topics in Korean Studies - were slaves formerly bought and sold in Korea like they were in other parts of the world?
Museum plaque showing prices of slaves during Korea's Chosun dynasty.
Photo courtesy Dan Harmon
Old men playing cards
Photo courtesy Dan Harmon
Old men are pretty much the same everywhere. Without much to do and probably bored hanging out at home, these gentlemen decided to spend part of their summer day sitting in the shade and playing cards. Though I would hazard a guess that in North Korea they're not doing any gambling. Behind the card players, you can see part of the well-restored wall that goes most of the way around the museum complex. Hard to believe such a peaceful place is so close to the border, but just like in the South, people seem to have grown used to living near a warzone.
Wedding Party
Photo courtesy Dan Harmon
Also, just like in the South, couples about to be married head to a traditional place with a photographer and a couple of friends to take wedding photos. Most likely the couple here hasn't gotten married yet - they're just getting some pictures for the album prior to the big day. The idea that the groom shouldn't see the bride in her wedding dress ahead of time has never really caught on in Korea. We had a chance to speak briefly with the groom, who spoke surprisingly good English. Somewhere in their wedding album they have a picture of all of us as well.
Young Painter
Photo courtesy Thomas St. John
The young man shown above was out painting with his father on the grounds of the museum, a sight that would be familiar to anyone who has visited palaces in the South, where it's common to see painters and photographers of all ages practicing their hobbies. The father was actually a professional - his works were for sale. Judging from his son's paintings, he would soon be following in the old man's footsteps.
One of the things that struck me most about the trip to the museum was how much it reminded me of similar places in the South. Not just the traditional design, but the people. The most striking similarities are shown in these last thr
ee pictures - people using the palace/museum in exactly the same ways they're used in the South. We were the only tourists, everyone else was using the place as a park or backdrop. Again, scenes familiar to anyone who's spent time traveling in the South. This museum was the only place in all of North Korea where I felt strong similarities between the two countries. The rest of the time it felt more like opposite ends of the planet than separate sides of the 38th parallel.
Pyongyang Circus
Should a circus be depressing? You wouldn't think so, but that's exactly how I felt before this one even got started. After the long drive back up to Pyongyang from Kaesong, everyone, including our guides, was getting a bit tired and road-weary. What better way to get some energy back than going to the circus with a bunch of excited kids?
After pulling back in to Pyongyang, the bus finally stopped at one of the city's giant concrete monoliths, this one identifying itself as the State Circus. We could see crowds of kids coming up the street and filing in as we made our way to the entrance. Once inside, we passed (as in, we were hurried past) crowds of kids gathered in groups around a row of souvenir stands, then made our way to the center auditorium. Unlike Arirang, this time we didn't have to pay extra for the seats. We had plush, comfortable ones directly in the center, right up front, not three meters from the stage.
