by Suvir Saran
6 cups/1.2 kg kosher salt
¼ cup/20 g coriander seeds
2 tbsp whole black peppercorns
2 whole trout (about 1 lb/680 g each), butterflied and frames removed
3 lemons, 2 thinly sliced, plus 1 cut into wedges for serving
Heat the oven to 350°F/180°C/gas 4. Remove the leaves from the sprigs of one bunch herbs and place in a food processor along with the salt, coriander seeds, and peppercorns. Process until the herbs are pulverized and the mixture is fragrant.
Spread 2½ cups/565 g of the salt mixture over the bottom of a 9-by-13-in/23-by-33-cm baking dish. Lay the fish, side by side, on top of the salt, and then stuff each fish with one bunch herbs. Divide the lemon slices between the two fish, laying them in an overlapping row on top of the herbs. Close the fish and cover them with the remaining salt mixture, making sure that they are completely buried.
Place the baking dish in the oven, and roast for 45 minutes. Remove the dish and set it aside to rest for 30 minutes before cracking open the top of the salt with a knife and gently removing the caked-on layer of salt with a large spoon. Place the fish on a platter and serve on a bed of herbs (if you have extra) and surrounded by lemon wedges.
Garam Masala Roast Chicken
When my coauthor, Raquel, calls with an idea, discovery, or suggestion, I listen. The mother of two young boys and wife of a well-traveled (albeit finicky) film and music distributor, she always has to be on top of her game. There is no place for mediocrity or the ordinary. So when Raquel came up with this version of roasted chicken without any added fat, I knew I was in for a discovery. She rubs garam masala under and on the chicken skin and then splashes the bird with balsamic vinegar for color and crispness. When I’m in the mood to splurge, I like to take duck or goose fat and rub it all over the chicken (see the Variation). It gives Raquel’s lean chicken a naughty, crispy, decadent taste.
Serves 4
1 tsp canola or grapeseed oil
3 tbsp Garam Masala (see recipe)
1 tbsp kosher salt
One 3½- to 4-lb/1.6- to 1.8-kg chicken
2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
Set an oven rack to the lower-middle position and heat the oven to 400°F/200°C/gas 6. Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil and place a wire roasting rack on the sheet. Grease the roasting rack with the canola oil and set aside. Mix the garam masala with the salt and set aside.
Place the chicken on a cutting board and slide your fingers under the skin of the breast, separating the skin from the meat and making a pocket. Place your fingers where the leg connects to the body and work your fingers down around the thigh and leg, separating the skin from the meat, creating a pocket between the thigh and leg meat and the skin. Place 2 tsp of the garam masala mixture under the skin of each breast and under the skin of each thigh, rubbing it all along the entirety of the meat. Rub the remaining 2 tsp of the garam masala mixture over the skin of the chicken and inside the cavity. Tie the legs together with butcher twine, and tuck the wings behind the back.
Place the chicken, breast-side down, on the roasting rack and roast for 30 minutes. Remove the sheet from the oven, brush the back of the chicken with half of the vinegar, turn the chicken breast-side up, brush with the remaining vinegar, and roast for an additional 30 minutes to 1 hour (depending on the size of the chicken), or until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh reads 165°F/75°C. Remove from the oven, and let rest for 10 minutes before carving and serving.
VARIATION: NOT-SO-LEAN CHICKEN
In a small bowl, mash 6 tbsp/85 g room-temperature unsalted butter with 3 tbsp of the garam masala and salt mixture. Proceed with preparing the chicken for roasting as described, dividing the spiced butter between the breasts and thighs, and massaging the chicken from above the skin to work the spiced butter along the meat. Rub the surface and inside of the cavity with the remaining 1 tbsp spice blend.
Brush 3 tbsp melted duck or goose fat (just warm it in the microwave until it is liquefied) over the surface of the chicken and 1 tbsp inside the cavity. Place the chicken on the prepared roasting rack and roast as instructed. After turning the chicken, dab the surface with another 1 tbsp duck fat and continue roasting as directed. This chicken is especially wonderful roasted over potatoes and onions.
Juicy Turkey-Cheddar Burgers
Inspiration for this recipe came from my lamb burger recipe, in which I combine ground lamb with lots of spices and a combination of Parmigiano-Reggiano and Pecorino cheeses. Richard Arakelian, a chef colleague, asked me why I never use ground turkey in a burger, and, furthermore, why I rarely use American cheeses, like cheddar, in my recipes. I interpreted his question as a challenge, and this is how my turkey-cheddar burgers came to be.
First, I gently fry herbs and spices, like curry leaves and cumin, with chopped red onions, then I add this mixture, along with shredded cheddar, chopped jalapeños, and fresh cilantro to ground turkey. The result is a turkey burger unlike any you’ve ever had—absolutely exploding with flavor and masala. The burgers are also delicious made with ground white or dark meat chicken or ground pork.
Serves 4
2 tbsp canola oil
8 fresh or 12 frozen curry leaves, finely chopped (see Farmhouse Basics)
1 tsp cumin seeds
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
¼ tsp red pepper flakes
½ small red onion, finely minced
1¼ lb/570 g ground turkey (preferably dark meat or a combination of white and dark meats)
¾ cup/85 g tightly packed shredded cheddar cheese
½ jalapeño, finely diced (seeded and deveined for less heat)
¼ cup/10 g chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1 tsp kosher salt
4 burger buns, toasted
Raita for serving (see Farmhouse Basics)
Tomato-Onion-Peanut Chutney for serving
Place 1 tbsp of the canola oil, the curry leaves, cumin seeds, black pepper, and red pepper flakes in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring often, until the cumin seeds are fragrant and lightly browned, about 2 minutes.
Add the onion and cook, stirring often, until translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and set aside to cool.
Place the turkey in a large mixing bowl and gently knead in the cheese, jalapeño, cilantro, and salt. Stir in the onion mixture and form into four patties.
Wipe out the frying pan with a paper towel. Return the pan to medium-high heat for 2 minutes, add the remaining 1 tbsp oil, and then add the patties. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until the patties are browned, about 4 minutes. Flip, and cook the other side until browned and the center is cooked to your preferred doneness (I like mine slightly pink). Place the burgers on the toasted buns, dollop with raita and chutney, and serve.
VARIATION: PARTY MEATBALLS
Preheat the oven to 375°F/190°C/gas 5. Instead of dividing the meat mixture into four patties, divide it into golf ball–size portions. Coat your hands with a little olive oil, and then gently roll the portioned meat between your hands until round, then slightly flatten into disc-shaped patties. Place the patties on a wire rack set over a rimmed baking sheet and brown the meatballs until they’re cooked through. Skewer on toothpicks or mini bamboo skewers and serve with Raita or Tomato-Onion-Peanut Chutney on the side.
Strawberries-and-Cream Ice Cream
Half-and-half from Battenkill Valley Creamery, eggs from our chickens, and strawberries from our favorite strawberry farmer, Brian Talmadge of Black Lab Farm, combine to produce the richest, goldest, and creamiest strawberries-and-cream ice cream you can imagine. I always start out with a crème anglaise base and never tire of the fact that while my anglaise in the city is tinted pale yellow, in the country it almost looks like melted butter due to the quality of the cream and the vibrancy of our egg yolks. Of course, the stars of the show are small, intensely sweet strawberries that we get by the flat. They’re the same summer berries we use in our su
perb garnet-colored strawberry jam (see recipe). You’ll only use 1 cup/240 ml strawberry syrup in the ice cream. Save the remaining 1½ cups/360 ml syrup, for drizzling over pancakes or biscuits, in the refrigerator for 3 days, or freeze it for up to 3 months for the next time you’re craving strawberry ice cream.
Makes about 1¼ qt/1.2 L
FOR THE STRAWBERRY SYRUP
2 lb/910 g strawberries, hulled
½ cup/100 g sugar
Zest of 1 lemon
1½ tbsp fresh lemon juice
FOR THE ICE CREAM BASE
3 cups/720 ml half-and-half
1 vanilla bean, or 1 tsp vanilla bean paste or vanilla extract
6 egg yolks
¾ cup/150 g sugar
To make the syrup: Slice 1½ lb/680 g of the strawberries in half and quarter the remaining ½ lb/230 g. Place the halved strawberries in a medium saucepan along with the sugar, lemon zest, and lemon juice. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until the strawberries break down and become jammy, about 10 minutes. Stir in the quartered strawberries and cook until they are very soft and nearly melted into the sauce, about another 10 minutes. Pour the sauce into a medium bowl, let cool to room temperature, and then chill in the refrigerator for several hours before using.
To make the ice cream base: Pour the half-and-half into a medium heavybottomed saucepan and bring to a simmer. Turn off the heat. If you’re using vanilla bean paste or extract, skip to the next step. If you’re using a vanilla bean, slice the bean in half lengthwise. Using the tip of a knife, scrape the seeds into the half-and-half, add the bean halves, and whisk. Cover the saucepan, and set it aside for 30 minutes.
In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the sugar until thoroughly combined. If you’ve used a vanilla bean, strain the vanilla-infused half-and-half through a fine-mesh sieve and into the eggs, whisking constantly. If you’re using vanilla bean paste or extract, simply whisk the eggs with the sugar and half-and-half, and proceed with the next step (you’ll add the vanilla later).
Set a medium bowl into an ice-water bath and place it next to your stove. Return the egg mixture to the saucepan and place it over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring slowly and continuously with a wooden spoon, until you can draw a clear line through the custard on the back of the spoon, about 5 minutes. (Don’t allow the custard to boil; this could cause the eggs to curdle.)
Strain the base through a medium-mesh sieve and into the chilled bowl in the ice-water bath. If using vanilla bean paste or extract, whisk it in now. Whisk for 30 seconds to cool slightly, then cover the custard flush with plastic wrap and refrigerate until it’s cold, at least 1 hour or preferably longer (the base will last for up to 3 days in the refrigerator).
Transfer the custard to an ice-cream maker and freeze it according to the manufacturer’s instructions until it reaches a soft serve–like consistency. With the machine running, pour in 1 cup/240 ml of strawberry syrup and let it churn in until it is completely incorporated. Transfer the ice cream to a container, cover, and freeze until the ice cream is firm, at least 4 hours or up to 3 days. Let the ice cream stand at room temperature for 5 to 10 minutes before scooping and serving.
Farm Yarn:
Battenkill Valley Creamery
Opening a jug of half-and-half or cream from the Battenkill Valley Creamery is like unwrapping a gift. There is always a layer of thick cream on top—I just can’t help sighing at the sight of it.
Seth McEachron, a fifth-generation dairyman, has dedicated his life to rethinking how his family runs its dairy business and makes milk. Many other farmers in the area give their milk to large dairies, but Seth decided that his family would continue to be a single-origin operation, selling milk like they did decades ago: in clear glass bottles (the milk actually goes from cow to bottle within eight hours!).
We go out of our way to pick up our whole milk and superthick chocolate milk directly from the dairy. We love seeing the Holsteins, Jerseys, and Holstein-Jersey crossbreeds that generously give us their milk. At the shop, there is a cash box on the counter and milk in the reach-in cooler—customers abide by the honor system, leave their payment, and walk out happy.
Seasonal Jam
Every summer, Charlie and I have a ritual: We make jam, and lots of it. We buy many flats of fruit from local farmers (or if we have a particularly lucky season, we gather the fruit from our own trees and shrubs) and slowly cook giant batches of preserves, marmalades, chutneys, and jams. Rather than using pectin as a preservative and thickener, I prefer to cook the jam slowly for several hours over low heat until it thickens naturally and gels. More of a spoon fruit than a supermarket spreadable, our jarred jams are given as gifts for holidays, housewarmings, and thank-yous. You’ll need a very large pot to make large batches of jam. For a smaller batch, simply halve (or quarter) the following recipe. If using blueberries, blackberries, or raspberries, crush half of the berries (a potato masher works perfectly) and add the remaining berries whole. This creates a nice texture.
Makes 18 pt/8.5 L
Seasonal fresh fruit, hulled and halved if large and pitted if necessary (apricots, blackberries, blueberries, cherries, gooseberries, nectarines, peaches, raspberries, sour cherries, strawberries, etc.; refer to the chart for ingredient amounts)
Sugar (refer to the chart)
Lemon zest and juice (refer to the chart)
¼ tsp salt
Additional seasonings (refer to the chart)
Place a ceramic plate in the freezer (you’ll use the chilled plate to test the gel of the jam). Stir together the fruit, sugar, lemon zest and juice, salt, and any additional seasonings in a large 15-qt/14.2-L stockpot. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring often. Reduce the heat to medium-low and gently cook the jam until a spoonful mounds nicely when dabbed onto the chilled plate, doesn’t run excessively when you tip the plate, and leaves a semithick trail when you run your finger through the middle of the dollop, anywhere from 1 hour to 2½ hours, depending on the fruit (see chart).
While the jam cooks, prepare your jars, lids, and bands. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the jars (you will probably have to sterilize the jars in batches depending on the size of your pot—or you can run them through your dishwasher and keep them warm until filling) and sterilize for 10 minutes. Use rubberized jam tongs to transfer the jars, open-end down, to a clean kitchen towel until you’re ready to fill the jars with hot jam (you don’t want the jars to cool completely; make sure they’re still slightly warm when you fill them). Place the bands and lids in a separate pot of simmering water (don’t boil the lids because that could affect their ability to seal properly). Once you’re ready to fill the jars, remove the bands and lids from the water and drain on the kitchen towel.
Use a funnel to fill the jars with jam to within ¼ in/6 mm of the jar’s lip. Securely screw on the lids and bands, and then place the jars back into a large pot of boiling water for 10 minutes (make sure the water completely covers the jars) to process (you will probably have to do this in a few batches). Use tongs to transfer the hot jars from the water to the kitchen towel and let them sit out at room temperature for 24 hours before testing the seal on the jars and storing the jam. (To test the seal, just press the top of the lid—it should be taut without any give). If the jar lid bounced back, then it didn’t seal properly. Boil the jar for 10 minutes more, and let sit out for 24 hours before retesting.
Use jam within 1 year.
SEASONAL JAM CHART
I often add unexpected ingredients to my jams and preserves, giving them a beauty and flavor that many find a welcome change from your average plain strawberry, blueberry, or peach preserves. This chart lists some of my favorite stir-ins to add to the master recipe:
Fruit Content
Apricot Jam (Cooks for 1 hour and 10 minutes) 20 lb/9 kg
Blueberry Jam (Cooks for 2 hours) 20 lb/9 kg
Peach Preserves (Since peaches have ample n
atural pectin, the jam only needs to cook for about 1 hour and 10 minutes total) 16 lb/7.2 kg
Raspberry and Blood Orange Jam (Cooks for 2 hours) 12 lb/5.4 kg raspberries; 8 lb/3.6 kg blood oranges, zested and juiced
Sour Cherry Jam (Cooks for 2 hours and 30 minutes; makes 14 pt/6.6 L) 20 lb/9 kg
Strawberry Jam (Cooks for 2 hours and 15 minutes to 3 hours) 20 lb/9 kg
Sweet Cherry Jam (Cooks for 2 hours) 20 lb/9 kg
Sugar Content
Apricot Jam 8 lb/3.6 kg
Blueberry Jam 8 lb/3.6 kg
Peach Preserves 8 lb/3.6 kg
Raspberry and Blood Orange Jam 14 lb/6.4 kg
Sour Cherry Jam 8 lb/3.6 kg
Strawberry Jam 10 lb/4.5 kg
Sweet Cherry Jam 10 lb/4.5 kg
Lemon Content
Apricot Jam 4 lemons, zested and juiced
Blueberry Jam 6 lemons, zested and juiced
Peach Preserves 4 lemons, zested and juiced
Raspberry and Blood Orange Jam (none)
Sour Cherry Jam Zest of 2 lemons
Strawberry Jam 4 lemons, zested and juiced
Sweet Cherry Jam 4 lemons, zested and juiced
Add Other Flavors:
Apricot Jam ½ cup/70 g whole apricot kernels, 3 tbsp ground ginger
Blueberry Jam 3 tbsp ground ginger
Peach Preserves ½ cup/70 g whole apricot kernels, 3 tbsp ground ginger, ½ tsp finely ground black pepper, ½ tsp crushed saffron, ¼ tsp cayenne pepper
