I first toured Salado from my car, driving up and then down the main street. “What a treasure!” I proclaimed. I decided to park in front of a long, two-story building that contained a shop called Heirlooms.
Heirlooms
26 Rock Creek Dr.
254-947-0336
A long, wooden porch was inviting, and the many treasures and friendly atmosphere once inside could not be denied.
You will find galleries of well-known Texas artists. The collection of dolls with attention to details is impressive. The blue and white porcelain is a collector’s delight. If nostalgia is your penchant, then you spend most of your time in the rooms full of touring hats, dresses, and the like.
I did not have time to see everything, but I did visit the following stores:
Texan by Design
3 Old Town
254-947-4479
Springhouse
120 Royal St.
254-947-0747
www.springhousesalado.com
Old Town Salado Store
15 Old Town
254-947-9000
Angelic Herbs & Inspirations
3 N. Main St.
254-947-1909
www.saladoangelicherbs.com
Chic, innovative, fun, and enjoyable would easily apply to the shops in Salado.
McCains Café & Bakery (formerly Uncommon Grounds Café)
417 N. Main St.
254-947-3354
An excellent choice! I learned from Lucas R. Martin that the food is better than ever. It is homemade food with Texas hospitality.
Salado has about twenty dining options and about an equal number of bed-and-breakfasts. Salado is a Native American word meaning “spring-fed creek.” It was the stopping place for stagecoaches and cattle drives. I was informed that you can still see the ruts in the bottom of the creek from the wagon wheels. Two Texas governors and authors have come from this little town of approximately twenty-three hundred people. Sam Houston, Gen. George Custer, and bandit Sam Bass thought of Salado as their away home. This is a must-visit-again.
New Mexico
New Mexico is an interesting state. I-40 (which goes practically all the way across the United States) and I-25 (running north-south) are the main highways. Heading in any direction, you will experience long stretches without services, and then you will find an area full of many stores, but don’t gamble (except at the casinos)! Keep your gas tank half full and always have plenty of water.
Driving Diva Mileage: Driving from very big Texas, I thought I would never see the New Mexico border welcome sign. On this particular part of the trip, I had traveled about three thousand miles, and it felt like twenty-five hundred had been spent just getting through Texas.
Silver Moon Restaurant
3701 Will Rodgers Dr., Santa Rosa
505-472-3162
Driving along I-40, I had not been in New Mexico for long when this small building caught my eye. It is a roadside delight of delicious foods and friendly hospitality with the goal of maintaining an original established tradition. The chicken quesadillas were fresh and just right. The price is absolutely sensible. The woman who managed the restaurant told me they had been there a long time and that the restaurant was actually on historic Route 66 (www.historic66.com). It turns out that part of I-40 follows that older road. The Silver Moon Restaurant, to me, was a multistar restaurant that you will enjoy. Don’t pass it by.
Driving Diva Factoid: Santa Rosa (population approximately 2,500) is a city of natural lakes and other attractions like Route 66 Auto Museum.
Route 66 Auto Museum
2866 Will Rogers Ave.
575-472-1966
www.route66automuseum.com
In 1930, Route 66 “arrived” in town, and it became a traveler’s oasis. In 1935, Club Café opened with its soon-to-be-famous smiling Fatman logo, which many still remember. The café closed in 1991. The famous train scene in the 1940 movie Grapes of Wrath, in which Tom Joad, played by Henry Fonda, watches the train steam over the Pecos River, was filmed here. There are interesting tidbits to every tiny town.
Clines Corner
Right off I-40 as you head out of Santa Rosa toward Santa Fe, this is a great stop for gas, food, restrooms, hats, Mexican jewelry, a selection of clothing, shoes, trinkets, jellies, and souvenirs. Check your map.
For a shortcut to Santa Fe, take Highway 285, a very good road.
Santa Fe (Population Approximately 65,000)
Santa Fe is growing rapidly, but its historic downtown remains its main hub. It is called the “City Different” with attributes of exceptional merit. The Santa Fe streets are a little confusing, but don’t get frustrated. So what if you go around the block twice. Charming in many different ways, Santa Fe mixes the old world with the tourist world but never overlooks its Native American roots.
I recommend you obtain a map for a self-guided walking tour. It will prove very interesting. You can see more on foot in Santa Fe than in many other cities; the museums, art galleries, and shops are all within walking distance. Wear comfortable shoes and weather-appropriate clothing and be in a positive haggling mode for street shopping.
The Plaza and the Historic District
The Plaza, with its inviting park, is the center of the downtown historic area. Across from the street, at the Palace of the Governors (www.palaceofthegovernors.org), many local Native Americans arrive each morning to sell their wares. You will find that shopping in Santa Fe is world-class, but as when shopping anywhere, be savvy, alert, and aware.
When in Santa Fe, I feel a certain artsy emotion. I enjoy the city with its diverse cultures, artistic mixes, and upscale places. During the summer, there are a lot of visitors. I cannot stress enough that the buyer should beware. Does it really compute that so many “handmade” items could all look exactly the same?
You’ll find a lot of Zuni art and wares; one should probably learn about Zuni art before buying. This goes for buying any kind of art anywhere.
Driving Diva Factoid: You will see an immense number of fetishes—objects believed to have magic powers. Usually in the shape of a carved animal, they can be single items or strung in a collection on a necklace. Check the construction carefully.
Hotels
Inn of the Anasazi
113 Washington Ave.
505-988-3030
www.innoftheanasazi.com
The staff that greeted me was very attentive, both in parking my car and at the front desk. This is a very charming upscale property with only fifty-seven guest rooms. The traditional southwestern architecture and decor are extremely attractive; the service is professional. The rooms are little works of art and very romantic, with a four-poster bed, a gas-lit kiva fireplace, and appropriate art.
The inn is environmentally attuned, acknowledging that our resources are precious and must be conserved. High-tech water-filtration and conservation equipment have been installed. The Inn of the Anasazi, just a few steps from the Plaza, is indeed well situated.
The Anasazi Restaurant & Bar is attractive. During previous visits, I found the food tasty, but this time it was not up to par. However, the service was very good. That can happen sometimes. I have been told that Chef Oliver Ridgeway is now at the helm in the kitchen and that the restaurant will not disappoint. I definitely recommend visiting this charming establishment.
Driving Diva Factoid: Anasazi is Navajo for “ancient ones.”
Las Palomas
460 W. San Francisco St.
877-982-5560
www.laspalomas.com
This small, delightful hotel (I have heard it called a bed-and-breakfast too) is owned and run by noted opera tenor Neil Rosenshine, whose enthusiasm for life, his family, and his Las Palomas is immediately evident when you meet
him. Neil has retired from the stage and is now teaching in Santa Fe, New York City, and Europe.
Las Palomas is nestled into a small street called West San Francisco, which is actually just a few blocks from the Plaza and other sights in Santa Fe. It is easy to find. Parking is in the courtyard—so convenient. Immediately, as I walked up onto the porch, I noticed how friendly and hospitable everyone was.
After checking in, I was shown to my room. Each room seemed like a little casita constructed from adobe bricks. My casita had a small porch. The room was large and had sitting and kitchen areas. A complimentary continental breakfast is offered and can be enjoyed in your casita or in the reception area. Breakfast was definitely very delicious!
Though not ultrafancy, Las Palomas is a delightful and comfortable oasis for the traveler. The pluses far outweigh any minuses, although I would recommend more lighting in the room. (This may have changed or was perhaps just a tiny oversight when I was there.) I look forward to going back to Las Palomas. It is relaxing, convenient, and totally charming.
Recently, Las Palomas was able to acquire the two adjoining B&Bs—how fortunate! Also, a few blocks away, Zona Rosa Suites (429 San Francisco St.) is under the umbrella of Las Palomas/Neil Rosenshine. These are large accommodations of varying sizes with kitchens and full amenities, ideal for families visiting the area for a length of time or perhaps for the Opera season.
Inn and Spa at Loretto
211 Old Santa Fe Trail
800-727-5531
www.innatloretto.com
The Inn and Spa at Loretto in downtown Santa Fe is comfortable and convenient, with all the perks and amenities you could expect from a AAA Four Diamond property. In the couple of years since I was there, Condé Nast has ranked the inn number eighty-one in the United State and the spa number thirteen. Over $8 million has been spent—and spent well. I look forward to seeing the new inn and spa in person.
From the outside, the hotel looks as though it’s constructed of adobe building blocks placed at different angles on top of each other. At night, the entire edifice looks magical, as lights brighten and accent surfaces here and there. The main floor is large, with many hallways, shops, and such.
Luminaria (505-984-7915), the delightful restaurant on property, is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and Sunday brunch. Each meal I have enjoyed at this restaurant has been good or delicious. The patio, surrounded with flowers and sculpture, is open during the summer months.
I look forward to visiting the Spa at Loretto (505-984-7997) so I can experience the “Sacred Stone” and “Native Desert Sage” massages.
Loretto Chapel
This small but magnificent chapel has a twenty-two-foot-high staircase with no center support. The construction has baffled everyone, and the builder remains unknown. As the story goes, the chapel’s construction was completed, but accessing the choir loft had never been addressed and a choir loft was essential. The nuns prayed for an answer and made a novena (a nine-day period of prayer) to St. Joseph, the patron saint of carpenters. On the final day of prayers, a man looking for work arrived on a donkey with a toolbox. He immediately began work and, when he was finished, vanished, never even asking for payment. Despite repeated efforts, he never was found, and some believe it was Saint Joseph himself. Constructed with wooden pegs, the staircase has thirty-three steps and makes two complete 360-degree turns. Sit a while in the chapel. It is beautiful—a must-see!
Bishop’s Lodge
Bishop’s Lodge Rd.
505-983-6377
www.bishopslodge.com
This is a ranch resort for the entire family, and it is only five minutes from downtown Santa Fe. Accommodations are attractive, the hospitality friendly, and the food delicious. The resort offers a complimentary year-round shuttle to town and, in the winter, transportation to the nearby ski area.
Bishop’s Lodge is a cross between a sports complex, a wellness center, a retreat, and, if desired, an escape from life’s usual agendas. There are the trails for hiking and horseback riding, ranges for skeet and trap shooting, tennis, swimming, and other activities for children and adults. The latest addition, the Villas, can be rented for a real home away from home.
The Las Fuentes Restaurant & Bar has many menu options and sits in a beautiful setting. The Bishops Lodge, though just a short distance from bustling Santa Fe, allows you feel as if you are miles away.
La Posada de Santa Fe Resort and Spa
330 E. Palace Ave.
505-986-0000
www.laposada.rockresorts.com
Easy to find by car and a short walk from downtown, this property is truly an oasis. Once inside, you feel as if you are miles away from anywhere.
As of this writing, La Posada has a few very nice rituals, all gratis:
Monday: Margarita Monday (don’t forget the aspirin)
Tuesday: Tropical exotic drinks by the pool
Wednesday: Wine tasting
Thursday: Cheese tasting
Friday: Chef’s reception in the kitchen
Also, on Tuesday and Friday, s’mores are served by the fireplace. What pleasant ways to meet other guests! Check the rituals and plan accordingly!
The public rooms are very attractive and inviting. You feel more like you are in a private home than in a hotel. There are 159 rooms nestled into the property—a number that I would not have guessed because they are truly nestled. The rooms are attractive and well appointed. Earth tones ranging from light to dark accented the turquoise and bright orange in the decor. The art is displayed nicely, and the amenities are many. Some of the rooms have kiva fireplaces and a patio or porch. The romantic setting is unquestionably a delight for all.
Driving Diva Factoid: The original building was built by Abraham Staab in 1882 for his wife and soon-to-be-large family. It was constructed in the French Second Empire style and decorated with the finest European furnishings. Staab and his wife, Julia, entertained here. There are many stories—some of which underscore the truth that wealth does not eliminate sadness—but be that as it may, legend has it that Julia adored her home so much that she rarely left it. Some claim she is still very much on the property. Julia passed away in 1896 and Abraham in 1913. In the 1930s, the Nasons owned the property and turned it into a hotel called La Posada (Spanish for “inn” or “resting place”).
Fuego is La Posada’s AAA Four Diamond Award–winning restaurant. It is very attractive. I didn’t feel as if I was in a commercial eatery. It is southwestern cozy. Fuego serves breakfast, lunch, dinner, and a Rancher’s Brunch on Sundays. One can also dine on the Garden Patio, Viga, but at the end of the day, a nightcap should be had in the Staab House, said to be “Santa Fe’s Most Romantic Bar.”
The Rock Resort Spa is a full-service spa and “an oasis for the senses.” Perhaps it is the oasis atmosphere that gives it a special feeling. It is very professional, and the facial, massage, and adobe mud wrap were excellent. Reservation are suggested. La Posada is continually upgrading, and major renovations were completed in 2009.
La Fonda
100 E. San Francisco St.
505-982-5511
www.lafondasantafe.com
This historic property was built in 1922. In 1925, the Atchinson, Topeka, & Santa Fe Railroad acquired it and leased it to the legendary Fred Harvey, who established the Harvey House hotels throughout the United States. In 1968, La Fonda came under local ownership, and its presence in downtown Santa Fe remains. The original adobe hotel was known to be “at the end of the Santa Fe trail,” which happens to be in the Plaza. Its pueblo-style architecture, thick visible beams, and New Mexican decor take you away from the real world. La Fonda is not only a focal point in itself but a hub of activity with its restaurants, shops, and attractions.
There are 167 well-decorated rooms and suites. The hand-painted furniture is most attractive, and of cour
se the southwestern architecture, furnishings, and artistic appointments all blend to provide a special ambiance. The rooms are spacious.
La Plazuela (505-995-2334) is a large, colorful restaurant, which I think was originally a courtyard and later enclosed. I found the meals good, except for one. It is a festive spot. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served daily, and because of its popularity, reservations are recommended.
La Fiesta Lounge is a casual spot with a light menu and a New Mexican buffet at lunchtime. At night, there is live entertainment and dancing. The sunset views are beautiful from the fifth-floor Bell Tower Bar. It is open seasonally. Go and enjoy a drink as you drink in the view. (Oh my!)
When I learned that the general manager, the head of public relations and marketing, and some of the staff have been part of La Fonda for over ten years (some even longer), I was impressed. I think that is a most positive representation for the property.
Restaurants
Plaza Café
54 Lincoln Ave.
505-982-1664
www.thefamousplazacafe.com
This fifty-year-old landmark is deliciously fun. It feels more like an oversized diner with its booths, tables, and long counter. The latter I found to be an ideal place to eat and chat. Everyone is friendly and seems to have a joyous demeanor. The food is good, the staff has never met a stranger, and the prices are right. If you don’t enjoy being at the Plaza Café, then there is something wrong with you. I look forward—again and again—to dining here.
Gabriel’s Restaurant
4 Banana Ln., Hwy. 285
505-455-7000
www.restauranteur.com/gabriels
A short drive from downtown Santa Fe on Old Taos Highway is Gabriel’s, home of some of the best ribs I’ve eaten. The guacamole and Caesar salad are prepared at your table, and the margaritas are made with premium tequila. The atmosphere is very casual, and the food is very excellent. If you’re by yourself, you can sit at the bar for dinner and engage in friendly banter with your neighbors. This is a popular place, so reservations are important.
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