by Lisa Chaney
25 Morand, Allure, p. 43.
CHAPTER 14: Alone
1 Paul Morand, Lewis et Irène, p. 140.
2 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 37.
3 Capel correspondence, Christopher Osborn.
4 The Papers of Alfred Duff Cooper (1st Viscount Norwich), DUFC 12/8, July 5, 1918, Churchill Archives Center, Cambridge.
5 Ibid.
6 Scotland’s People website, www.scotlandspeople.gov.uk.
7 Edward Stanley, Earl of Derby, Paris 1918: The War Diary of the British Ambassador, August 11, 1918, pp. 133–34.
8 Georges Bernstein-Gruber, Bernstein le magnifique, p. 166.
9 Benquet Agency letters.
10 Earl of Derby, p. 161, August 22, 1918.
11 Michelle Maurois, Déchirez cette lettre, p. 15.
12 Ibid., p. 160.
13 Liane de Pougy, My Blue Notebooks, p. 54.
14 Lady d’Abernon, Red Cross and Berlin Embassy, 1915–1926: Extracts from the Diaries of Viscountess d’Abernon, November 28, 1918, p. 56. My thanks here to Lady Polly Feversham.
15 Christopher Osborn in interview with author.
16 Ibid.
17 Viscount Norwich, Duff Cooper Diaries, April 9, 1918, October 29, 1918, and November 5, 1918. The notion that Duff Cooper and Diana Capel had an affair (Justine Picardie, Coco Chanel, p. 88) is based on a misreading of these diaries.
18 Ibid., November 11, 1919.
19 Phillip Norcross Gross, Oscar Edward Fleming’s nephew, has been helpful with new information on Antoinette Fleming née Chanel.
20 Norwich, December 23, 1919. These diary entries proved crucial in the last piece of the Arthur Capel/Diana Capel/Chanel puzzle.
21 Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own, p. 99.
22 Norwich, January 21, 1920.
23 Charles Roux, Chanel, p. 178.
24 Stonyhurst Magazine and Le Gaulois, January 2, 1920.
25 Capel correspondence, Christopher Osborn.
26 Ibid.
27 Ibid.
28 Morand, Allure, pp. 54–55.
CHAPTER 15: Beginning Again
1 Colin Simpson, Artful Partners, pp. 168–78.
2 Elisabeth de Clermont-Tonnerre, Mémoires, vol. IV, La Treizième Heure, p. 154.
3 Charles Roux, Chanel, p. 183, and Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own, p. 106.
4 Services Archives-Documentation, Mairie de Garches.
5 Churchill Archives Center DUFC12/8, 17.
6 Paul Morand, Venices, p. 121.
7 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 59.
8 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 112.
9 Ibid.
1 °Charles Roux, p. 196.
11 Morand, Allure, p. 62.
12 Ibid., p. 60.
13 Ibid.
14 Ibid., p. 63.
15 Audio recording, Gabrielle Chanel, Bibliothèque Nationale de France (undated).
16 Richard Buckle, Diaghilev, p. 161.
17 Morand, Allure, p. 84.
18 John Richardson, A Life of Picasso, vol. III, p. 39.
19 Buckle, p. 364.
20 Mary Davis, Classic Chic, p. 226.
21 Richardson, vol. III, p. 174.
CHAPTER 16: The Strangest and Most Brilliant Years
1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 107.
2 Mary Davis, Classic Chic, p. 179.
3 Morand, Allure, p. 127.
4 Chanel interview BNF.
5 Richard Buckle, Diaghilev, p. 412.
6 Davis, pp. 183–85.
7 Ibid., p. 179.
8 Chanel interview BNF.
9 John Richardson, A Life of Picasso, vol. III, p. 177.
10 Gaia Servadio, Luchino Visconti: A Biography, p. 41.
11 Morand, Allure, p. 128.
12 Ibid., pp. 30–31.
13 Ibid., p. 31.
14 Morand, Lettres du voyageur, letter to Valentine Hugo, January 2, 1921.
15 Morand, Allure, p. 128.
16 Ibid., p. 81.
17 Chanel interview BNF.
18 Arthur Rubinstein, My Many Years, p. 151.
CHAPTER 17: Dmitri Pavlovich
1 Pavlovich diaries, February 9, 1921. For guiding my thoughts on Dmitri Pavlovich, and painstaking translations of all of the following diary entries, I am most grateful to William Lee. www.directarticle.org/Will_Lee_Sue_Woolmans.html.
2 Marie Pavlovna, A Princess in Exile, p. 71.
3 Ibid., p. 130.
4 Ibid.
5 Amanda Mackenzie Stuart, Consuelo and Alva Vanderbilt, p. 158.
6 Pavlovich, February 9, 1921.
7 Ibid., February 10, 1921.
8 Ibid.
9 Robert Fizdale and Arthur Gold, The Life of Misia Sert, p. 132.
10 In conversation with William Lee.
11 Pavlovich, March 18, 1921.
12 Ibid., May 2, 1921.
13 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 26.
14 I am grateful to Philip Norcross Gross for this information.
15 Charles Roux, Chanel, p. 176.
16 Haedrich, p. 26.
17 Pavlovich, May 4, 1921.
18 Ibid., May 5, 1921.
CHAPTER 18: The Lucky № 5
1 Vogue, October 1920.
2 Robert Fizdale and Arthur Gold, The Life of Misia Sert, p. 201.
3 Ibid.
4 Ibid.
5 Pierre Galante, Mademoiselle Chanel, p. 67.
6 Ibid., p. 69.
7 Ernest Beaux “Souvenir de parfums,” in Industrie de la parfumerie, vol. I, no. 7, October 1946.
8 Galante, p. 74.
9 Audio recording, Gabrielle Chanel, Bibliothèque Nationale de France (undated).
10 Patrick Doucet painstakingly described the development of Chanel perfumes and helped me toward a chronology of № 5.
11 Chanel catalogue, Chanel Conservatoire.
12 Galante, p. 75.
13 Ibid.
14 Audio recording, Gabrielle Chanel, Bibliothèque Nationale de France (undated).
CHAPTER 19: Entirely in White and Covered in Pearls
1 All references in this paragraph are from Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 104.
2 Francis Steegmuller, Cocteau, p. 268.
3 Jean Cocteau, Le passé défini, February 6, 1956, p. 42.
4 John Richardson, A Life of Picasso, vol. III, p. 87.
5 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 105.
6 Marie Pavlovna, A Princess in Exile, p. 174.
7 Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own, p. 118.
8 Harper’s Bazaar, March 1937.
9 Madsen, p. 118.
10 All preceding quotes in this section are from Marie Pavlovna.
11 Gaia Servadio, Luchino Visconti: A Biography, p. 31.
12 Steegmuller, p. 170.
13 Ibid., pp. 241–42.
14 Ibid., p. 301.
15 Ibid., p. 308.
16 Ibid., p. 276.
17 Ibid., p. 297.
18 Chanel to Etienne de Beaumont in the Institut Mémoire de l’édition Contemporaine, fonds E. Beaumont.
19 Chanel correspondence, Chanel Conservatoire.
2 °Chanel archive.
CHAPTER 20: Reverdy
1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 133.
2 Charles Roux, Chanel, p. 370.
3 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 138.
4 Jean Cocteau, Le passé défini, vol. 5, April 1956, p. 91.
5 Collection Chanel, by kind permission of the estate of Pierre Reverdy.
6 Francis Steegmuller, Cocteau, p. 325.
7 Roux, p. 230.
CHAPTER 21: At the Center
1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 148.
2 Ibid., p. 118.
3 Ibid., p. 146.
4 Ibid., p. 147.
5 Ibid., pp. 145–48.
6 Carmel Snow, The World of Carmel Snow, p. 31.
7 Morand, Allure, pp. 122, 151.
8 Ibid., p. 123.
9 Whitney Chadwick and Tirza
True Latimer, The Modern Woman Revisited, p. 89.
10 Ibid.
11 Ibid., p. 82.
12 Ibid., pp. 80–85.
13 Ibid.
14 Vogue, March 1, 1923.
15 Morand, Allure, p. 47.
16 Ibid., p. 155.
17 Ibid., p. 131.
18 Ibid., p. 133.
19 Arthur Rubinstein, My Many Years, p. 125.
20 Renée Mourgues, La République, October 13, 1994.
21 Pierre Galante, Mademoiselle Chanel, p. 155.
22 Maurice Sachs, La Décade de l’illusion, p. 138.
CHAPTER 22: Bend’Or
1 Jean Cocteau, Lettres à sa mère, vol. V, May 24, 1957.
2 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 125.
3 George Ridley, Bend d’Or, Duke of Westminster, p. 141
4 Ibid.
5 Ibid., p. 134.
6 Winston and Clementine Churchill, Speaking for Themselves, p. 313.
7 Ibid., p. 306.
8 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, pp. 158–59.
9 Ibid., p. 160.
10 Ibid., p. 165.
11 Ibid.
12 The Wendy and Emery Reves Collection catalogue, Dallas Museum of Art.
13 Bettina Ballard, In My Fashion, p. 49.
14 Morand, Allure, p. 169.
15 Ibid., p. 69.
16 Robert Fizdale and Arthur Gold, The Life of Misia Sert, p. 271.
17 Marcel Billot, Journal de l’Abbé Mugnier, August 6, 1928.
18 Axel Madsen: Chanel: A Woman of Her Own, p. 172.
19 Vogue, August 1930.
20 Loelia, Duchess of Westminster, Grace and Favor, p. 159.
21 Dorothy Ponsonby, diaries, February 20, 1930.
22 Morand, Allure, p. 162.
23 Ibid., pp. 165–67.
24 Ridley, p. 167.
25 Morand, Allure, p. 167.
CHAPTER 23: The Crash
1 Francis C. Rose, Saying Life: The Memoirs of Sir Francis Rose, p. 154.
2 Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own, p. 186.
3 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 151.
4 Charles Roux, Chanel, p. 237.
5 Morand, Allure, pp. 149–50.
6 Judith Thurman, Secrets of the Flesh: A Life of Colette, p. 377.
7 Charles Roux, p. 291.
8 Morand, Chroniques, 1931–1954, p. 314.
9 Gaia Servadio, Luchino Visconti: A Biography, p. 40.
10 Ibid., p. 42.
11 Madsen, p. 210.
12 Ibid.
13 Servadio, p. 52.
14 Lilou Marquand, Chanel m’a dit, p. 108.
15 Ibid., p. 137.
16 Morand, Allure, p. 112.
17 Ibid., p. 111.
CHAPTER 24: Schiap Had Lots of It but It Was Bad
1 Bettina Ballard, In My Fashion, p. 61.
2 Ibid., p. 62.
3 Ibid., p. 140.
4 Dalí letters to Gabrielle Chanel, Dalí correspondence, courtesy Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí.
5 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 170.
6 Ibid., p. 172.
7 I am most grateful to Jean-Noël Liaut for this and much other useful information.
8 Marcel Billot, Journal de l’Abbé Mugnier, February 22, 1929.
9 Jean Hugo, Carnets, February 17, 1967.
CHAPTER 25: War
1 Janet Flanner, Paris Was Yesterday, p. 222.
2 Pierre Galante, Mademoiselle Chanel, p. 170.
3 Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own, p. 226.
4 Charles Roux, Chanel, p. 373.
5 Flanner, p. 222.
6 Dalí letters to Gabrielle Chanel, Dalí correspondence, courtesy Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí.
7 Madame Gabrielle Labrunie interview with the author.
8 Nicole Fenosa and Bertrand Tillier, Apelles Fenosa: Catalogue raisonné de l’œuvre sculpté.
9 Lilou Marquand interview with the author.
10 William Bullitt, pp. 481–86.
11 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 143.
12 Ibid., pp. 143–44.
CHAPTER 26: Survival
1 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 178.
2 Ibid.
3 Francis Steegmuller, Cocteau, p. 438.
4 Ibid., p. 439.
5 Julian Jackson, France: The Dark Years, pp. 360–63.
6 Ibid., p. 4.
7 Ibid., p. 199.
8 Ibid., p. 308.
9 Charles Roux, Chanel, pp. 324–25.
1 °Comte Jean d’Harcourt telephone interview with Adelia Sabatini, April 2010.
11 Archives of the Association Sainte Agnès, Saint-Martin-le-Vinoux, France.
12 Chanel Conservatoire interview, Mme Tassin.
13 Judith Thurman, Secrets of the Flesh: A Life of Colette, p. 197.
14 Ibid., p. 437.
15 Ibid., p. 436.
16 Jean d’Harcourt interview with Adelia Sabatini, April 2010.
17 Robert Fizdale and Arthur Gold, The Life of Misia Sert, p. 290.
18 Lilou Marquand, Chanel m’a dit, p. 136.
19 Thurman, p. 445.
2 °Coleridge and Woolf quotes from John Kerrigan, The Sonnets and a Lover’s Complaint, p. 51.
21 Jean d’Harcourt interview with Adelia Sabatini, April 2010.
22 Jean-Noël Liaut interview with the author, July 2009.
23 In Meredith Etherington-Smith’s Dalí biography, The Persistence of Memory, “the opium — smoking Cécile Goudreau is a thinly disguised portraitof Coco Chanel — Dalí gives the game away when he has her mention the Auvergne, Chanel’s birthplace,” p. 283.
24 Ibid., p. 89.
25 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 171.
CHAPTER 27: Von Dincklage
1 M. Flügge, Rettung ohne Retter, p. 109.
2 This information and much of what follows on von Dincklage is taken from M. Flügge, p. 109, and from two documents in the Swiss Federal Archives, which include letters from von Dincklage’s lawyer. At the time, 1950, von Dincklage was trying to reenter Switzerland.
3 Das Braune Netz (The Brown Network), p. 98.
4 Sybille Bedford, Quicksands, p. 90.
5 Archives Fédérales Suisses (Bundesarchiv): Archiv des Schweizerischen Bundesstaates (1848–2009), File C.16-01373, February 2, 1950. According to this report, he was “directeur des transports” in Sanary.
6 Ibid.
7 Das Braune Netz (The Brown Network), p. 94.
8 Flügge, p. 109.
9 Das Braune Netz (The Brown Network), p. 96.
10 Bedford, p. 311.
11 Das Braune Netz (The Brown Network), p. 94.
12 Ibid.
13 Bedford, p. 88.
14 Charles Coton interview, December 10, 1982, in Jacques Grandjonc and Theresia Grundtner, Zone d’ombres 1933–1944. Exil et internement d’Allemands et d’Autrichiens dans le Sud-Est de la France, p. 51.
15 Francine du Plessix Gray, Them, p. 170. The sections on von Dincklage in this brilliant and absorbing memoir proved critical in my unraveling of that secretly repugnant man’s chronology.
16 André Simone (pseudonym of Otto Katz), Men of Europe, pp. 16–17.
17 Das Braune Netz (The Brown Network), p. 95.
18 Ibid.
19 Ibid., pp. 96–102.
20 Von Dincklage’s lawyer’s statement and the Swiss Archive files cited above in note 2.
21 Bedford, p. 312. Here Bedford describes von Dincklage as “made for the job [of spy], an effective charmer, a ruthless social butterfly with a heart of steel, ignorant of ideals, other humans’ pains.”
22 Plessix Gray, p. 169.
23 Ibid., p. 171.
24 Ibid., p. 169.
25 Samuel Marx, Queen of the Ritz, p. 106.
26 Ibid.
27 Plessix Gray, p. 170.
28 Ibid.
29 Archiv des Schweizerischen Bundesstaates (E4320B#1990/266#1551*, file C.16-01373 P); November 13, 1950, from the chief of police, Geneva, Switzerland, to his cou
nterpart in Berne, Switzerland. The French intelligence report adds that von Dincklage “gave the impression he was trying to make deals with Germany and France… [he] visits one Leonardo Dickens (suspected of being head of Gestapo in Lugano).”
30 The police reports confirm von Dincklage’s position.
31 Plessix Gray, p. 218.
32 Dodie Kazanjian and Calvin Tomkins, Alex: The Life of Alexander Liberman, p. 98. (Charles Roux, Chanel, version of this episode is on pp. 315–17.)
33 Marx, p. 179.
34 Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own, p. 242.
35 Jean d’Harcourt interview, July 2009.
36 Archiv des Schweizerischen Bundesstaates (E4320B#1990/266#1551*, file C.16-01373 P); November 13, 1950, from the chief of police, Geneva, Switzerland, to his counterpart in Berne, Switzerland.
37 Marx, p. 174.
38 Jean d’Harcourt interview, July 2009.
39 Denis Demonpion, Arletty, p. 225.
40 Jean d’Harcourt interview, July 2009.
41 Ibid.
42 Ibid.
43 Charles Roux, p. 344.
44 Ibid., p. 334.
45 Letters between Churchill’s office, the Foreign Office, Vera Bate and Chanel (CHAR 1/ 272/, CHAR20/198 A, etc.) in the Churchill Archives Center, Cambridge.
46 Ibid.
47 Courrier du Préfet de Police, Direction de la Sûreté Générale, Contrôle Générale des Services de Police Ad. No. 583. I am indebted to Marika Genty for this document.
48 Ibid.
49 Ibid.
5 °Churchill Archives Center documents referred to above, note 45.
51 This section, see James McMillan, Twentieth-Century France, pp. 147–51, and Julian Jackson, France: The Dark Years, pp. 561–66.
52 Jackson, pp. 577–92.
53 Churchill Archives Center documents referred to above, note 45.
54 Lilou Marquand, Chanel m’a dit, pp. 113–15.
55 Charles Roux, pp. 346, 349.
56 Malcolm Muggeridge, Chronicles of Wasted Time, vol. XI, The Infernal Grove, p. 242.
57 Churchill Archives Center documents referred to above, note 45.
58 Documents and letters between the Foreign Office and the Zonal Executive Offices, Germany, between 1947 and 1948: http://www.nationalarchives.gov.uk/catalogue/displaycataloguedetails.asp?CATLN=6&CATID=1957690, and CATLN=6&CATID =3579445&j=1.
CHAPTER 28: Exile
1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, pp. 146, 147.
2 Ibid., p. 12.
3 Ibid.
4 Ibid., p. 170.
5 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 173.
6 Guy de Rothschild, The Whims of Fortune, p. 216.
