Coco Chanel: An Intimate Life
Page 53
Orlandi, Suzanne
Otero, Caroline
pajamas
Palasse, André
Paquin, Jeanne
Parade (Diaghilev ballet)
Paramount
Parfums Chanel, Les
Paris
bohemian life in
demimonde of
fashion in
homosexuality in
magnificence promoted in
under Nazi occupation
rebuilding of
in World War I,
in World War II,
Paris commune of
Parisian Jeu de Paume
Paris Match
Paris Polo Club
Paris spring collection (1939)
Parker, Suzy
Parquet, Paul
Patou, Jean
Paul Alexandrovich, Grand Duke of Russia
Pausa, La
pearls
Péguy, Charles
Penn, Irving
Pereire, Jacob Emile
Pétain, Philippe
physical culture
Picabia, Francis
Picasso, Olga
Picasso, Pablo
Antigone’s set by
Gabrielle’s affair with
Parade’s set created by
Pulcinella’s set created by
Pillet-Will, Comte
pink
Pinto, Lieutenant
Poincaré, Raymond
Poiret, Paul
Poland
Polge, Jacques
Pompidou, Claude
Ponsonby, Loelia (Duchess of Westminster)
Ponteils, France, (ancestral hamlet of the Chanels)
Popular Front
Portarlington, Lady
Porter, Cole
Poulenc, Francis
Pound, Ezra
Prokofiev, Sergei
Propaganda-Abteilung
prostitution
Proust, Marcel
Pulcinella (Diaghilev ballet)
Quant, Mary
Rabanne, Paco
Rabaté, Lucienne
rabbit fur
Rachmaninov, Sergei
Radiguet, Raymond
Radziwill, Countess
Radziwill, Princess
railways
Rallet N. 1,
Rasputin, Grigori
Ravel, Maurice
rayon
Reay Forest
Reves, Emery
Reflections of Victory (Capel)
Règle du Jeau, La (film)
Rehbinder, Countess
Renoir, Auguste
Renoir, Jean
Requena, Comtesse de
Resistance
Reverdy, Henriette
Reverdy, Pierre death of
revue blanche, La
Reynaud, Paul
Ribbentrop, Joachim von
Ribblesdale, Lord
Ricci, Nina
Ripon, Gladys, Lady
Ristelhueber, Boulos
Rite of Spring, The (ballet)
changes to
premier of
Ritz
roads
Rochas, Marcel
Rodier, Jean
Roger, Lucienne
Rohan-Montbazon, Duchesse de
Romania
Rommel, Erwin
Roosevelt, Franklin D.
Rosslyn, Lady
Rothschild, Diane “Kitty” de
Rothschild, Guy de
Rothschild, Lili de
Rothschild, Marie-Hélène
Rothschild, Nadine
Rothschild, Robert
Rothschild family
Rouault, Georges
Rouchefoucauld family
Rousseau, Douanier
Rowley, Violet
Royallieu (château)
Rubinstein, Arthur
Rubinstein, Helena
Rubinstein, Ida
Rules of the Game, The (film)
Russia Revolution
sable
Sachs, Maurice
Sagan, Françoise
Saint-Exupéry, Antoine de
Saint-Jean-de-Luz, France
Saint Laurent, Yves
Saint-Sauveur, Pauline de
Saks
Salverte, Jeanne de
Samaritaine, La
Sanary, France
Santos-Dumont, ALberto
Sargent, John Singer
Sartre, Jean-Paul
Satie, Erik
satin
Schellenberg, Walter
Schiaparelli, Elsa
in collaboration with Dalí
Schiaparelli, Gogo
Schillinger, Hans
Schneider, Romy
Schoenebeck, Baron von
Schoenebeck, Maximiliana von (Catsy), married von Dincklage
Schoenebeck, Sybille (Bedford)
Scott, Ridley
sea bathing
Second Empire, France
Secret of the Medici
Segonzac, André de
Segonzac, Comte Jean de
Sem (Georges Goursat)
Sert, José Maria
Sert, Misia Edwards
as affected by Depression
as annoyed with Gabrielle’s philanthropy
and creation of Chanel № 5,
decorating by
deserted by Sert
Diaghilev’s friendship with
drugs used by
Gabrielle influenced by
Gabrielle placed in apartment by
and Gabrielle’s affair with Stravinsky
memoirs of
salon acquired by
at Sorel’s party
sewing machines
sexual inclinations
Seyrig, Delphine
Shervashidze, Prince
shoulder pads
silk
Simpson, Wallis
Singer, Winnaretta
Six, Les
Sjorza, Countess
skirts
short
smart trousers
Smith, Pamela, Lady
Snow, Carmel
social hierarchies
Sokolova, Lydia (Hilda Munnigs)
Somme, Battle of
Sorel, Cécile
Soviet Union
Spain
Spears, Edward
Speer, Albert
Spiritualism
Stern, Herman
stock market crash (1929)
Stöhrer, Ute von
Stonyhurst College
Stravinsky, Catherine
Stravinsky, Igor
death of
Gabrielle’s affair with
Streitz, Robert
strikes in France
Stroheim, Erich von
Stülpnagel, Carl-Heinrich von
style, fashion vs.
Sullivan, Anne
suntans
surrealism
Swanson, Gloria
sweaters
Sweetinburgh, Thelma
swimsuits
Switzerland
Synarchist Empire Movement
Syndicat de la Couture
syphilis
Tagore, Rabindranath
Talmadge, Norma
Tatou, Audrey
Taylor, Elizabeth
Tehran Conference (1943)
Témoin, Le
Ten Commandments, The (film)
Tender Is the Night (Fitzgerald)
10th Light Horse Regiment
Théâtre des Arts
Théâtre des Champs-Elysées
Theosophists
Time
Times, The (London)
Tonight or Never (film)
Toulemon, Elise (Caryathis)
Toulmin, Evelyn
Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri
Train, Susan
Train Bleu
Train Bleu, Le (ballet)
Traviata, La (opera)
tweed
Tzara, Tristan
&
nbsp; United States
in World War I,
Uriage, France
Uzanne, Octave
Vadim, Roger
Valentino
Valéry, Paul
Vallat, Xavier
Vanderbilt, Consuelo
Varennes, France
Vaufreland, Louis de
Vendôme
Venice, Italy
Verdun, Battle of
Verlaine, Paul
Versailles Conference (1919)
Vichy, France
Victoria, Grand Duchess
Victory Ball, Paris
Viezaux, Etienne de (St. Stephen)
Viggiano, Yvonne
Villa Larralde
Vilmorin, Louise de
Vionnet, Madeleine
Visconti, Luchino
Vivien, Renée
Vogue
Vreeland, Diana
Vuillard, Édouard
Wagner, Richard
waistlines
Wales, David Prince of, see Edward VIII, King of England
Warkowska, Madame
Waugh, Evelyn
Weber-Rosenkranz, Baroness
Wertheimer, Alain
Wertheimer, Gérard
Wertheimer, Jacques
Wertheimer, Paul
Wertheimer, Pierre
West, Mae
West, Shelagh
Westminster, Duke of, see Bend’Or
Wilhelm II, Kaiser
Williams, Harrison
Williams, Mona
women
bodies of
horse riding by
liberation of
in men’s clothes
practical outfits worn by
Women’s Wear Daily
Woolf, Virginia
World War I,
casualties of
French mutinies in
technology in
World War II,
Gabrielle’s escape from Paris in
Phony War in
Worth, Charles Frederick
Wyndham, Diana
Capel’ affair with
Gabrielle disliked by
Wyndham, Percy
youth
Yturbe, Miguel de
Zola, Emile
Zuylen, Egmont van
Zuylen, Maggie van
Zweig, Arnold
1. The vast chestnut forests seen from Ponteils, the mountainous Cevennes hamlet where Gabrielle’s paternal ancestors lived.
2. Gabrielle’s great-grandfather’s inn, “the Chanel.” Today, the shutters firmly shut, its stony bulk has an air of neglect.
3. The Aubazine convent-orphanage where Gabrielle lived for many years.
4. The earliest known photograph of Gabrielle, with Adrienne at Vichy c. 1904.
5. Etienne Balsan on military service, c. 1903, around the time Gabrielle met him.
6. Gabrielle, c. 1909. Tastes were changing; her angular “modern” beauty had become desirable.
7. The famed courtesan, Emilienne d’Alençon, Etienne Balsan’s lover when Gabrielle appeared on the scene.
8. Royallieu, where Gabrielle lived with Etienne as his mistress.
9. Arthur “Boy” Capel, c. 1910, who was to transform Gabrielle’s life.
10. Arthur Capel and Gabrielle. Jodhpurs and sitting astride were unconventional for a horsewoman in 1910.
11. Arthur Capel was a noted horseman and excelled at polo.
12. Gabrielle in her own hats, seen in Comoedia Illustré, 1910.
13. The actress Gabrielle Dorziat 1910, in “Marie-Louise” hats, almost indistinguishable from Gabrielle’s own designs.
14. Gabrielle Dorziat in a Chanel hat for the play Bel Ami, 1912.
15. Gabrielle Dorziat in another Chanel hat, 1912.
16. Outside Gabrielle’s boutique with Adrienne (left) in Deauville, 1913. Note the awning reading “Gabrielle Chanel.”
17. By 1913 Gabrielle was becoming known, and Sem caricatured her with her immensely eligible lover Arthur Capel.
18. Gabrielle at her Deauville shop doorway. Previously unrecognized, on her right is Capel; furthest right is Balsan, still a friend. (There are only a handful of known photos of Gabrielle and Capel together.)
19. Gabrielle was in the minority of women who took to playing sports. At Deauville, c. 1913.
20. Gabrielle, Capel and Constant
Say at St-Jean-de-Luz in a moment of calm during the First World War.
21. The Picassos in front of Pablo’s Ballets Russes poster, 1917. Olga’s outfit, including her handbag, are Chanel.
22. John Singer Sargent’s drawing of Diana Wyndham, the young Englishwoman who would usurp Gabrielle.
23. Deauville Polo Club’s Arthur Capel trophy, given by his sister, Berthe, possibly in conjunction with Gabrielle.
24. Sergei Diaghilev (left) and Igor Stravinsky, c. 1920, with whom Gabrielle became intimately associated.
25. Clockwise from top left: Stravinsky, José Maria Sert, Gabrielle and the inimitable Misia Sert.
26. Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich.
27. Gabrielle in the garden of her palatial new address, 29 Faubourg St-Honoré, early 1920s.
28. Dmitri Pavlovich. with Gabrielle, 1920.
29. The earliest depiction of Chanel № 5, by Sem, c. 1921–2.
30. Gabrielle’s costumes for Le Train bleu, 1922, were crucial to its up-to-the-minute air. Lydia Sokolova, Anton Dolin, Jean Cocteau, Leon Woizikovsky, Bronislava Nijinska.
31. Lydia Sokolova, Anton Dolin, Bronislava Nijinska and Leon Woizikovsky in Le Train bleu.
32. Lubov Tchernicheva as Calliope in Apollon musagète, 1929, her tricot tunic bound with neckties from Charvet, a classically simple Chanel touch.
33. The poet Pierre Reverdy, whom Gabrielle lost to his religion.
34. Paul Morand, man of letters, who took Gabrielle’s memoir.
35. Bend’Or, Second Duke of Westminster.
36. The Duke of Westminster’s Cheshire home, Eaton Hall.
37. Gabrielle with Winston and Randolph Churchill, boar-hunting on Bend’Or’s French estate, 1928.
38. Marion Morehouse in a signature “little black dress” by Gabrielle, 1926.
39. At Biarritz, 1928, in her trademark jersey, two-tone shoes and imitation jewelery.
40. Gabrielle on the Venice Lido, c. 1930, with Misia Sert and Madame Berthelot. José Maria Sert is behind.
41. Skiing with society; Gabrielle (center). Behind are Etienne and Edith de Beaumont.
42. Gabrielle in jersey suit, c. 1931; note the return of the waist.
43. In New York, 1931, on Gabrielle’s triumphant first trip to the United States.
44. Gabrielle with English society models, 1932; Lady Pamela Smith stands.
45. With and photographed by Cecil Beaton, c. 1937.
46. Gabrielle, her jewelery designer Fulco di Verdura and his work, 1937.
47. With Salvador Dalí, c. 1938.
48. Apelles Fenosa sculpts Gabrielle, c. 1939.
49. Gabrielle’s close friend Maggie van Zuylen and the dancer Serge Lifar.
50. Baron von Dincklage at fifty-four, Gabrielle’s lover during and after the war.
51. Gabrielle’s 1954 suit, in the U.S. Vogue photo shoot, was instrumental in resuscitating her name.
52. Suzy Parker, in one of the three outfits shot for U.S. Vogue in 1954.
53. On the famed staircase at 31 rue Cambon, before Gabrielle’s 1954 comeback show.
54. Some of the models who added luster to Maison Chanel: Marie-Hélène Arnaud, Gisèle Francome, Paule Rizzo and Mimi d’Arcangues in 1958.
55. Gabrielle, once again famous, in a characteristic pose, 1959.
56. Gabrielle’s sculptures seen in the salon at rue Cambon: in the fireplace a Jacques Lipchitz; on the mantel, classical torso and masks.
57. At rue Cambon, the bust of Thomas Capel on mantel, Gabrielle’s astrological lions on the table and a Coromandel screen behind.
58. An elderly Gabrielle in her
salon with her chandelier of personal symbols, c. 1965.
59. Gabrielle’s funeral mass in the Madeleine church, January 13, 1971, her coffin draped in flowers. Her models, in Chanel, stand at the front.
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