by John Fisher
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Monastiráki and Psyrrí
Achilleas
Lékka 21 tel 210 32 33 197, www.achilleashotel.gr. Metro Sýndagma.
Three-star hotel in a central location on a relatively quiet street. All rooms have been renovated and have a/c and TV. Breakfast isserved on the roof terrace, weather permitting. €140.
Athens Cypria
Dhiomías 5 tel 210 32 38 034, fax 210 32 48 792. Metro Sýndagma.
Standard, modern tourist hotel, but with all the luxuries – a/c, satellite TV, mini-bar, data ports – and good value for what you get. Very close to Sýndagma. The more expensive rooms have Acropolis views. €100.
Hermes
Apóllonos 19 tel 210 32 35 514, [email protected]. Metro Sýndagma.
Conveniently located two-star hotel, with comfortable, well-equipped, newly decorated rooms, and a hearty buffet breakfast included in the rather inflated price. €120.
John’s Place
Patróöu 5 tel 210 32 29 719. Metro Sýndagma.
In a peaceful backstreet of Mitrópoleos, this basic hotel has rather dark rooms and shared bathrooms. It’s clean and inexpensive however, and there’s a cheap restaurant on the ground floor. €40.
Kimon
Apóllonos 27 tel & fax 210 33 14 658. Metro Sýndagma.
A simple place, but the recently upgraded rooms here are spotlessly clean with TV and a/c. A few of the upper rooms have stunning Acropolis views. €60.
Pella Inn
Ermoú 104 tel 210 32 50 598, www.pella-inn.gr. Metro Thissío.
One of the best deals in the area, this family-run hotel has enthusiastic management and startling views of the Acropolis from the third floor up. €95.
Tempi
Eólou 29 tel 210 32 13 175, [email protected]. Metro Monastiráki.
A favourite with students and budget travellers. The rooms are tiny, most have shared facilities, and hot water can be sparse. But the view of the flower market at Ayía Iríni across the quiet pedestrian walkway is enchanting, and it’s within walking distance of most central sights. There’s also a book exchange, drinks, fridge, plus a handy affiliated travel agency.€55.
Thisseus Hostel
Thisséos 10 tel 210 32 45 960. Metro Sýndagma.
You don’t get much more central than this – three blocks west of Sýndagma – nor much cheaper. No frills, but clean enough, and with a kitchen for guests’ use, and some three- and four-bed dorms. €30.
Thissío, Gázi and Áno Petrálona
ErechthionFlammaríou 8 tel 210 34 59 606, fax 210 34 62 756. Metro Thissío.
A reasonable mid-range option in this lively area behind the Acropolis. All rooms have a/c and TV. €95.
Thission
Apostólou Pávlou 25 tel 210 34 67 634, fax 210 34 62 756. Metro Thissío.
Somewhat better value than the nearby Erechthion, this friendly place has a/c and TV in all rooms, and fine views from the roof terrace. €100.
Platía Omonías and around
Attalos
Athinás 29 tel 210 32 12 801, www.attalos.gr.
Metro Monastiráki. Modern hotel with clean, comfortable rooms with a/c and TV, friendly management and great Acropolis views from the rooftop bar. €80.
The Alassia
Sokrátous 50, Omónia tel 210 52 74 000, www.thealassia.com.gr.
Metro Omónia. Renovated in 2002, the Alassia is a pleasant find in what is still a rather undeveloped accommodation area. Its designer decor is apparent as soon as you enter the lobby. Rooms are on the small side, but are elegant and well sound-insulated. Good value for money. €120.
Hostel Aphrodite
Inárdhou 12, cnr Mikhaïl Vódha 65 tel 210 88 39 249, www.hostelaphrodite.com. Metro Viktorías.
Under the same management as the Student’s Inn in Pláka, and a very similar set-up. Friendly and clean, with a/c and hot water in shared bathrooms, safe, free baggage storage and Internet access. Dorms €17, bed in two-bed dorm €23, rooms €40.
Cecil
Athinás 39 tel 210 32 17 079, www.cecil.gr. Metro Monastiráki.
Loving restoration of a run-down pension has re-created the charm of the 150-year-old mansion; attractively decorated rooms are larger than average and all have a/c. The location in the heart of the market district, gracious management, roof garden and hearty breakfast with Cretan jams and yogurt make this a delight. €95.
Dorian Inn
Pireós 15-17, Omónia tel 210 523 9782, www.greekhotel.com/athens/dorianinn. Metro Omónia.
Very close to Platía Omonías and handy for the Acropolis, this is a bustling hotel popular with both business visitors and tourists. The rooftop garden boasts a pool and excellent views. €160.
Evropi
Satovriándhou 7 tel 210 52 23 081. Metro Omónia.
Very basic old-fashioned hotel with spacious rooms, made even cooler by ceiling fans. Best-value singles in town and reasonably quiet, despite being only a block from Platía Omonías. €35.
Feron
Férron 43, Platía Viktorías tel 210 82 32 083. Metro Viktorías.
A small, simple hotel with cheerful staff and en-suite baths in all rooms. Very good value. €80.
Zinon
Keramikoú 3 and Zínonos tel 210 52 45 711, www.bestwestern.com. Metro Omónia.
A comfortable, reasonably priced, three-star Best Western hotel just off PlatíaOmonías. Good-sized rooms have been recently renovated, and come with satellite TV and a complimentary bottle of wine. €95.
Exárhia and Neápoli
Exarchion
Themistokléous 55, Platía Exárhia tel 210 38 01 256, fax 210 38 03 296. Metro Omónia.
Big 1960s high-rise hotel, with an excellent location right on the square – though this means the rooms on the lower floors can be noisy. €100.
Museum Best Western
Bouboulínas 16 tel 210 38 05 611, www.bestwestern.com. Metro Omónia.
Recently taken over by the Best Western group and upgraded to its international standards, this nicely placed hotel is at the end of the green strip separating the National Archeological Museum and the Polytekhnío. €110.
Orion and Dryades
Anexartisías 5 tel 210 36 27 362, [email protected]. Metro Omónia.
Quiet, well-run twin hotels across from the Lófos Stréfi park – a steep uphill walk. Reception is in the cheaper Orion, which has shared bathrooms, a kitchen, and communal area on the roof with an amazing view of central Athens. All rooms in the Dryades are en suite with a/c and TV. €110.
Kolonáki & Lykavitós Hill
St George Lycabettus
Kleoménous 2, Kolonáki tel 210 729 0711, www.sglycabettus.gr. Metro Evangelismós.
One of the classic five-star hotels in Athens, the St George has one of the best locations, high up on Lykavitos hill overlooking Sýndagma and the Acropolis. Tasetfully done up in boutique-hotel style, there’s abundant marble and leather in the public areas plus a welcome rooftop pool. €145 for courtyard view, €220 looking out on the Acropolis.
Stratos Vassilikos
Michalakópoulou 114, Ilísia tel 210 77 06 611, www.airotel.gr. Metro Mégaro Moussikís.
Predominantly a business hotel, but very comfortable, newly renovated and with all the facilities you’d expect, including TV and Internet in the rooms, marble bathrooms, and even a tiny gym. Good metro and bus connections from its location near the US embassy. €170.
Sýndagma and around
Arethusa
Mitropóleos 6–8 and Níkis 12 tel 210 32 29 431, [email protected]. Metro Sýndagma.
This modern, quiet hotel with a/c and TV in each room caters to independent travellers and small groups. The reception staff are helpful and enthusiastic, and rates quite reasonable considering the excellent location. €120.
Grande Bretagne
Vasiléos Yioryíou 1, Platía Sýndagma tel 210 33 30 000, www.grandebretagne.gr.
If someone else is paying, try to get
them to put you up at the Grande Bretagne, the grandest of all Athens’ hotels with the finest location in town. Recently refurbished, it really is magnificent, with every conceivable facility. Treatments in the spa cost more than a night at most hotels – rooms are over €300 even for an off-season special offer. €400.
Mets, Pangráti and Koukáki
Acropolis Select
Falírou 37–39 tel 210 92 11 611, www.acropoliselect.gr. Metro Syngroú-Fix.
An excellent, tastefully renovated boutique hotel within ten minutes’ walk of the Acropolis. Pastel and earthy shades characterize the welcoming rooms, which have individually controlled a/c, satellite TV and modem ports. €125.
Acropolis View
Webster 10, Koukáki tel 210 92 17 303, www.acropolisview.gr. Metro Akrópoli.
A well-maintained small hotel on a quiet residential street whose front rooms with balconies and roof garden live up to its name. All rooms have a/c, TV and fridge, an ample breakfast is included and the lobby sports a friendly bar. €130.
Art Gallery
Erekhthíou 5, Koukáki tel 210 92 38 376, [email protected]. Metro Syngroú-Fix.
A mansion that was formerly the home of a member of the owner’s family, this popular pension is named for the original artworks on the walls. Rooms are plain, but the place is distinguished by knowledgeable and helpful staff, a convenient location just a short walk from the metro, and a bountiful breakfast (at extra cost) served on a sunny terrace with Acropolis view. €70.
Athenian Callirhoe
Kalliróis 32, cnr Petmeza tel 210 92 15 353, www.tac.gr. Metro Syngroú-Fix.
Situated between Koukáki and the centre, the Callirhoe was made over a couple of years back as an upmarket “designer” hotel. It’s already starting to look slightly faded, but is centrally located and has good facilities – including TV and Internet in the rooms and a small gym – making it popular with business and leisure travellers alike. Worth checking for offers.€180.
Marble House
Cul-de-sac off A. Zínni 35A, Koukáki tel 210 92 34 058, [email protected]. Metro Syngroú-Fix.
Easily the best value in Koukáki, with a very helpful management. It’s often full, so call ahead. Eight of the rooms have a/c (for extra charge); most rooms have a bath, and there are also two self-catering studios for longer stays. €45.
Philippos
Mitséon 3, Makryiánni tel 210 922 36111, www.philipposhotel.gr. Metro Akrópoli.
A small yet comfortable modern hotel located conveniently on the southeast side of the Acropolis. There’s a large atrium for breakfast or afternoon coffee.€195.
Villa Olympia
Karatzá 6, Koukáki tel 210 92 37 650.
Officially designated for long stays only, the rudimentary no-frills rooms are often available to tourists on a daily basis in this ramshackle old house, run by an Englishwoman. Basic, but by far the cheapest place in town. €20.
Suburban Athens
Acropole
Goúnari 7, Pireás tel 210 41 73 313, www.acropole-hotel.gr.
Perhaps the pick of the hotels in the Pireás port area, this newly renovated place has a variety of rooms including triples; some with Jacuzzi. Breakfast room and bar downstairs. €60.
Astir Palace Vouliagmeni
Apollónos 40, Vouliagméni tel 210 89 02 000, www.astir.gr.
The Astir Palace resort complex occupies some 75 acres of a private pine-covered peninsula, 25km from downtown. It has three hotels and villas, with pools, private beaches, water sports, tennis courts, a health club and no fewer than six restaurants. A shuttle bus runs twice daily to central Athens (in case the weather prevents you using the helipad) and there’s every other conceivable facility including a major thalassotherapy spa. From €220.
Delfini
Leohárous 7, Pireás tel 210 41 73 110, www.4peiraias.gr/delfini.
If you have a late ferry arrival or early departure and want a functional, convenient hotel, this is it. Tiny rooms, but each is nicely done out with fridge and balcony; there are also some multi-bed rooms available. €50, but discounts if you show this book.
Kefalari Suites
Pendélis 1, Kifissiá tel 210 62 33 333, www.kefalarisuites.gr.
A dozen extremely luxurious suites, each with its own decorative theme and with every facility you might want. A very long way from the bustle of central Athens. €200–500.
Mistral
Vasiléos Pávlou 105, Kastella, Pireás tel 210 41 17 150, www.mistral.gr.
Upscale, rather bland hotel, but undeniably comfortable and with fine sea views, looking out over Mikrolímano. Satellite TV, data ports and many other facilities in the rooms. Much better value than similar quality places in the centre. €110.
Hostels
There are only a couple of places in Athens that can strictly be described as hostels, and only one of these is officially recognized. Several of the cheaper hotels listed above, however, offer beds in shared rooms. We’ve specified where this is the case – they’re significantly more expensive than these hostels, but generally more centrally located.
YHA
Victor Hugo 16 tel 210 52 34 170, fax 210 52 34 015. Metro Metaxourghío.
Between the train stations and Omónia, the only official youth hostel in Athens is friendly, informative and, although a little frayed at the edges, includes a café and left-luggage store. Annual membership costs€15; if you’re not a member €2.50 per day is added to the cost of a bed. Dorms €8.
Youth Hostel #5
Damaréos 75, Pangráti, near the huge Profítis Ilías church tel 210 75 19 530, [email protected].
A bit out of the way, but this private hostel behind a green door is located in a quiet neighbourhood, is very friendly, and has no curfew. Trolleys #2 and #11 pass nearby. Dorms €9.
Campsites
The city’s campsites are out in the suburbs and not especially cheap – they’re only really worth using if you have a camper van to park. Phone ahead in season to book space.
Athens Camping
Leofóros Athinón 198–200 tel 210 58 14 114.
The closest campsite to the centre of Athens, re-opened after a revamp. Facilities include a minimarket, snack-bar and plenty of hot water. Take the Elefsína bus #A16 from Platía Eleftherias.
Camping Nea Kifissia
Tel 210 80 75 579.
Located in the cool, leafy suburb of Néa Kifissiá, with a very welcome swimming pool. Take bus #A7 from Platía Káningos or metro to Kifissiá and transfer onto bus #528 to the stop close to the campsite.
Várkiza Camping
Tel 210 89 73 614.
Beachfront location just off the main road, some 20km south of the centre, with a swimming pool, bar and restaurant. Bus #A3 or #E2 from Amalías to Glyfádha then #115 or #116 to Várkiza.
Essentials
Arrival
City transport
Information
Directory
Arrival
A new airport and substantial investment in transport links have transformed arriving in Athens. The airport is linked to the city by bus, metro and a fast expressway, while plenty of taxis and city buses service Pireás for those arriving by boat. Even driving in is relatively straightforward thanks to the new expressways.
By air
Athens’ modernistic Eleftherios Venizelos airport (www.aia.gr) lies some 26km east of the city. Facilities are excellent, with ample money-changing bureaux, two American Express offices and several ATMs. Luggage-storage facilities are open round the clock, as are the shops, newsstands, cafés, a food court and fast-food restaurants. There’s also an official EOT tourist office (daily 8am–10pm; tel 210 35 45 101). It’s worth calling in here to pick up their excellent map, and up-to-date information on museum and site opening hours.
Public transport from the airport is in a state of flux, so it’s worth picking up the latest leaflet on the situation, widely available at the airport. From summer 2004, metro line 3 should extend to Dh
oukíssis Plakentías station, from where metro trains will share the suburban rail lines to the airport. With around four trains an hour, this should be the most convenient way into the centre. Alternatively, express bus #E95 (approx every 20min midnight–7am, every 30min 7am–7pm, every 15min 7pm–midnight; 70min) runs to Sýndagma Square in the centre of town via Ethnikí Ámyna metro station; #E94 (every 10min 7am–7pm, less frequently till midnight) goes to Ethnikí Ámyna only. The journey is quicker if you change to the metro at Ethnikí Ámyna, but this is not easy if you’ve got a lot of luggage. Again, bus routes may change as a result of the extension of the metro. Others are #E96 (every 20min 7am–9pm, every 40min 9pm–7am) to Pireás via the coastal suburbs of Voúla and Glyfádha; the #E92 (roughly every 45min 9am–9pm, every 90min 10.30pm–8am) to the northern suburb of Kifissiá; #E93 (roughly every 35min 6am–midinght, hourly midnight–6am) to Kifisós intercity bus station; and #E97 (every 45–50min 6am–6pm, every 60min 7pm–5am) to Dháfni metro station. All these services cost €2.90, and the ticket (an imerísio) is valid on all Athens public transport for 24 hours. They should be bought from a booth beside the stops, or, if this is closed, can be purchased on the bus: make sure you have small change. You need to validate the ticket once on the airport bus, and again for your first trip on the metro or city bus. When departing, it’s worth buying your ticket, available from any city metro station, 24 hours in advance, to have a day’s free use of the transport system as well as your journey to the airport.
Getting into Athens by taxi is also pretty swift. You can get to the city centre via the Attikí Odhós Expressway and the Ymittós Ring Road in less than thirty minutes at slow traffic times and in under an hour at peak times. The Attikí Odhós Expressway also links the airport with a large swathe of northern Athens and runs right around the city as far as Elefsína. A taxi fare is roughly €12–15 to central Athens or Pireás. Before setting out in a taxi, make sure that the meter is switched on to the correct rate, but note that there are numerous legitimate extras for airport journeys, luggage etc.
