A confusion of green tea names exists in China due to the breadth of their production and also because sometimes geographical names are included and other times not. Spelling differences abound, and each tea has the potential to include in its name as many as eight different name assignations that refer to the four main plucking times and the four main quality grades of each tea. And confusion is beginning to arise on another front: suddenly, in this new free-market economy, China is beginning to grapple with the notion of “copycat” teas being produced by skillful but, some feel, unethical tea producers in neighboring regions. The need to protect the integrity of China’s authentic, famous teas is being brought about by issues from within. China is beginning to deter similar or outright copycat teas from other regions from being falsely marketed as the original by granting unique teas “protected indication” status. This protection policy for unique food products is similar to that used in Europe, where designations such as AOC (Appellation Controlée), DOP (Denomination di Origine Protetta), and PDO (Protected Denomination of Origin) are granted to unique place-specific European food products. In fact, on our most recent trip to eastern China we purchased a very special grade of Lu Shan tea that came with a sticker on the package that read, “Products of Designations of Origin and Geographical Indications of the P.R., China.”
KUNG FU STYLE OF POURING TEA
One of the more unusual tea arts in China is the so-called tea-distributing skill or the Kung Fu style of pouring tea. This artful way of pouring hot water for tea was once executed only in the Imperial Palace for the special enjoyment of the emperor’s guests, but by the end of China’s dynasty era this skill moved into the public teahouses. This method of brewing requires nothing less than perfect concentration and a very good sense of time and space on the part of the server. We have observed this style of extreme water pouring in selected teahouses in Sichuan and Anhui as well as in Hong Kong.
During this tea service the tea master pours hot water from a uniquely designed teakettle that resembles a squat, round metal watering can with an exaggeratedly long, curved spout. The tea master crouches down in a martial arts–style position, one of eighteen various contorted positions, while skillfully directing the stream of hot brewing water into a small gaiwan, the classic Chinese teacup. Some of these positions include over his head while looking straight down or over his head while bending backwards and looking up at the ceiling. Very minimal splashing is acceptable. Missing the cup completely is a no-no. Targeting the customer necessitates a career change—fast!
We encountered this tea service for the first time in a hotel atop the Huang Shan mountains when ordering a cup of Babaocha (Eight Treasure Tea). An elegant gaiwan arrived at our table, inside of which were a mélange of colorful dried fruits mixed in with the jasmine tea, including tiny sugar crystals, wolfberry, raisin, bits of walnut, dried longan, dates, and some chrysanthemum blossoms. A young man holding the kettle appeared. We were spellbound by his performance, which included moves with names such as Eagle Spread and Dragon Tail that were replayed every time an empty cup was set down. We drank an unusually large amount of tea that afternoon just to watch him strut his stuff.
In addition, other protections for tea are becoming necessary as China enters the modern world. In the industrialized east, for example, tea acreage is under threat of being lost because of urbanization and development. In Zhejiang Province the Longjing tea-growing areas located outside of the city of Hangzhou have been reduced to sixty-six square miles. In June 2001 the provincial government took action by blocking further construction in the tea areas, thereby protecting the remaining tea gardens from encroachment—a step that unfortunately is still necessary in other parts of China. But these are mere wrinkles in the long and tumultuous history of Chinese tea. Tea drinkers can help by purchasing authentic tea from reputable vendors who know where their tea is from and who can verify the authenticity of these teas. Many wonderful Chinese green teas are available in the United States from tea specialists in stores and online (see “Buyer’s Resources” at the end of the book for a list of vendors).
CHINA’S BLACK TEAS (QIHONG OR RED TEAS)
China also produces many spectacular black teas, which are often overlooked by tea drinkers in favor of the green and oolong power players that dominate the spotlight in China’s tea arsenal. This is unfortunate, because Chinese black teas are superb and seductively delicious, and they are extremely different than the black teas from India or Sri Lanka. Production quantities of Chinese black teas pale in comparison to the green teas, but they are deliciously stylish and fragrant and the quality is high.
The highest grades of black teas are referred to as kung fu teas, a term that is meant to underscore a process or something that is well produced, carefully made, labor intensive, and well executed (see “Kung Fu Style of Pouring Tea,” earlier in this chapter). Kung fu teas require extraordinary skills in all steps of their manufacture—from the plucking to the initial sorting to the manufacture and final sorting. Similarly, gong fu refers to a style of tea service for oolong teas that originated in Fujian and Guangdong Provinces. This method of preparing and serving tea is labor intensive because of the many carefully orchestrated steps involved in rinsing, brewing, and serving this style of tea (see “Gong Fu Tea Service” in chapter 7 for a full explanation). In the West black tea is named for the color of the fired leaf, but in China these teas are called hongcha, or red tea, after the color of the infusion. Historically, Chinese people have preferred to drink green or oolong tea, so the bulk of these black teas have always been made for export to “satisfy Western barbarian tea tastes.” However, a new generation of young Chinese tea drinkers are incorporating Western ideology, culture, and style into their lives. Hence black tea drinking is on the rise in China, particularly the strong black tea from India that is used to make iced tea beverages.
JAPANESE-STYLE TEA PRODUCTION IN CHINA
In Zheijang Province we visited a Chinese tea factory that was producing Japanese-style tea from Chinese leaf. The tea factory manager had been trained in Japan, and the Japanese parent company had established this brand-new, state-of-the-art factory to produce tea using Japanese processing techniques. This modern tea factory was spotlessly clean and bright; the high humidity generated by the steaming process gave the workers a healthy, rosy-cheeked glow. These Chinese-produced teas are sold to Japan for use exclusively in such exported items as bottled tea drinks and nonpremium tea blends that ship to Europe and North America. Japanese-produced sencha and matcha (finely powdered steamed green tea) is too expensive to be used for anything other than sipping during moments of appreciative contemplation.
The Chinese use a lighter touch when withering and oxidizing their black teas, and thus coax elegant, fragrant, soft-style teas from their fresh leaves rather than the strong, fruity, and sometimes more astringent teas of the more major black tea–producing countries. Most Chinese tea drinkers prefer black teas that are unblended and unscented. Such sweet, petal-scented, and fragranced black teas as gardenia, lychee, rose, osmanthus, and plum—once the favorites of tea drinkers during the Ming dynasty—are today made in Guangdong Province in southeastern China, primarily for export to the West.
Anhui Province. This province produces the following black teas: Keemun Hao Ya, Keemun Hao Ya B, Keemun Hairpoint Mao Feng, and Keemun Congou. Keemun (spelled Qimen in the East), sometimes referred to as Keemun Congou or qihong tea, is a superb example of an elegant and alluringly fragrant Chinese black tea. The Keemun area is comprised of four growing areas—Dongzhi, Guichi, Shitai, and Yixian—which are located not far from HuangShan City and the famous Huang Shan Mountains. Also renowned for celebrated spring green teas, this stunning mountainous vicinity has a temperate climate and abundant rainfall. The microclimate creates moisture-laden blankets of swirling clouds and mist over the tea-producing areas.
ORIGIN-SPECIFIC TEA
In July 2005 the Hangzhou Tea Research Institute informed the World Trade Organization (W
TO) that the Chinese tea trade strongly supports a future global scheme for the protection of “high-quality origin teas.” Requirements for “origin denomination” teas would thus be: (1) a defined specific botanic species, (2) a delineated geographic area, (3) a traditional process and manufacturing method, and (4) a distinctive flavor. According to the Trademark Office of the State Administration of Industry and Commerce, China has established more than 110 applications for geographic indication status food products, including pears, oranges, fish, tea, vinegar, and wine, and more are in the works.
Keemun teas are produced from eight different types of tea bushes; locals say that the best Keemun comes from leaves that have a little red vein running down the backside of the leaf. Many small rivers and springs run through this area, creating soil conditions that feed the bushes with a unique combination of nutrients. Small, thin, slightly twisted leaves that are naturally sweet and refreshing characterize the style and flavor of the best Keemun tea. These tiny leaves are painstakingly hand-sorted both before and after processing. Hao Ya A and Hao Ya B are the two highest grades of these tiny leaves. Keemun Mao Feng is larger in size and is a special picking of two leaves and a bud, which yields a rich, full flavor. These elegant teas can range from very dark black to black that is tinged with a soft, matte gray. Keemun teas rarely, if ever, show any light-colored downy tip on the ends of the leaf. The greatest cropping season for high-grade Keemun tea is in spring; little is made from summer or fall pluckings.
Table 4.1. Production Numbers for Chinese Tea
Detailed list to follow
Class of Tea: Green tea
Percentage of Total Production: 70 percent
Class of Tea: Oolong Tea
Percentage of Total Production: 14 percent
Class of Tea: Black tea
Percentage of Total Production: 13 percent
Class of Tea: Pu-erh tea
Percentage of Total Production: 2 percent
Class of Tea: White
Percentage of Total Production: less than 1 percent
Fujian Province. This province produces the following black teas in the Panyang Congou family: Dan Gui, Golden Crab, Golden Monkey, King of Golden Needles, and Panyang Congou. Panyang Congou is little known in America, but it is one of the last of its type of the great historical teas that were produced in China during the days of the tea trade. Produced in the little village of Tan Yang on Taimu Mountain, located outside of Fu’an City, Panyang Congou is primarily sold today to England, the Middle East, and Russia.
CHINESE GREEN TEAS AVAILABLE IN THE UNITED STATES
Numerous Chinese teas are now available in this country. Look for these well-known favorites at your local teashop or favorite online specialty vendor.
Anhui Province
Buddha’s Peak (Jiu Hua Mao Feng)
Dragon Whiskers (Qi Mountain Mao Feng)
Emerald Green Spouting (Cui Ya)
Huang Shan Mao Feng
Huang Shan Mao Jian
Huo Mountain Yellow Spouting
Jade in the Clouds (Huang Hua Yun Jian)
Jin Shang Tian Hua (display tea with chrysanthemum)
Lu Mudan (display tea)
Lu’an Melon Seeds (Lu’an Guapian)
Tai Ping Hou Kui
Yong Xi Huo Qin
Fujian Province
After the Snow Sprouting
Dragon Pearl Jasmine (Fuding)
Fuding Dabei Cha (display tea)
Fujian Mountain Green (Chao Qing)
Jade Green Butterfly (display tea with rose)
Lotus Heart (Lian Xin Cha)
Phoenix Eyes or Phoenix Eyes Jasmine
Taishun Snow Dragon
Wu Yi Clam Shape (display tea with jasmine and chrysanthemum)
Jiangsu Province
Green Snail Spring (Bi Lo Chun)
Jiangxi Province
Da Zhang Mountain
Lu Shan Yun Wu
Ming Mei
Sichuan Province
Jasmine Snowflakes (Bi Tan Piao Xue)
Mengding Mountain Snow Buds (Mengding Huang Ya)
Prince of the Forest
Snow Orchid (Xue Lan)
Yunnan Province
Bamboo Shoots (display tea)
Bamboo Tips (Zhu Ye Qing)
Jade Rings
Nine Dragons Mao Feng
Sunshine (from ancient dayeh tea trees)
Zhejiang Province
Curled Dragon Silver Tips (Pan Long Yin Hao)
Green Peony Lu Mu Dan (display tea)
Green Spider Leg
Gunpowder (Ping Sui county)
Jiang Shan
Jiang Shan Tian Hua (display tea)
Jingangshan Hao Ya
Jingangshan Mao Jian
Lake of a Thousand Islands
Longjing from the following areas: Lion Peak, Longjing village, Man Jue Long, Shi Feng Longjing, Weng Jai Shan, Xihu Longjing, and Yang Mei Ling
Peach Balls (display tea)
Snow Dragon
Tianmu Shan Green Tips (Tianmu Qing Ding)
According to Mr. Liu Shi Bao, general manager of the Fujian Fu’An Agricultural Tea Company Limited, Panyang is known as Tan Yang Congou in China, and the tea gardens were first established more than three hundred years ago, in the early Qing dynasty (1644–1911). During the heyday of the tea trade with Europe, Panyang Congou, Paklum, and Chingwo were popular teas with the English. Today Paklum is no longer produced, and Chingwo is nearly out of production. Panyang comprises only 5 percent of the four hundred tons of tea produced each year in Tan Yong village; the remaining 95 percent is green tea.
The village makes a handful of other black teas that fall under the Panyang umbrella, and each has a different processing style. Despite its small production, Panyang Congou is given a fine plucking of one bud and one leaf (hence the designation Congou, a spelling variation of Kung Fu meaning “skillfully made”) and is sorted into four grades of quality. Of these black teas King of Golden Needle is the finest leaf with the largest amount of tip, Golden Monkey is a slightly larger leaf with less tip, and Golden Crab is larger again. Panyang Congou is the largest leaf with the least amount of tip but the most concentrated flavor.
Wuyi Shan. This region produces the smoky black tea known as Lapsang Souchong. In the nineteenth century this inky black, tarry, smoky tea became popular in England. Still today, Lapsang Souchong is a Continental favorite, and some English companies add a dash of Lapsang Souchong tea to their Earl Grey and Russian Caravan tea blends. Historically, this tea was created by accident, not by careful intention. The Wuyi Mountains have always specialized in exquisite, fragrant, large-leaf oolong teas, but starting in 1646 a change came about that would have a permanent effect on the Wuyi tea industry.
During the reign of the young Qing emperor Shunzhi (r. 1644–1661), the affairs of state were controlled by his uncle, Dorghon. Dorghon wanted to consolidate the provinces of Zheijang, Fujian, and Canton (now Guangdong) under Manchu rule. In 1646 the Qing army invaded the Wuyi Shan in northwest Fujian and the villagers fled. Those with advance warning hid their tea from the soldiers. For safekeeping, they buried it in the mountains. But before doing so, it was necessary for them to first quickly dry the tea to keep it from rotting. Having no choice in this dire situation, they dried the tea over what they had at hand—boughs of freshly cut pinewood culled from the forests surrounding the village.
THE HUANG SHAN
The pointy, barren, and rocky peaks of the Huang Shan have been depicted and romanticized in Chinese brush paintings for centuries. These otherworldly mountains are capped with rocky pinnacles and isolated pines that invoke China’s past when aesthetics, scholars, artists, and monks roamed these mountains in search of inspiration, enlightenment, and solitude. Near the Keemun tea-growing region, the well-preserved village of Tunxi contains public buildings and houses built in the southern Anhui Huizhou vernacular style that date from the Ming dynasty (1368–1644). One of these original houses from this area has been
dismantled and is now on public display at the Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, Massachusetts.
Porters carry all of the goods that are needed in the hotels and restaurants atop the Huang Shan up the mountain. These athletic men and women drape long bamboo poles across their shoulders and hang their cargo by ropes from the ends of the pole. The goods sway gently as the porters scamper up the stone steps of the steep trails. The porters haul sinks, potted plants, laundry, and sometimes fatigued tourists (not us) all the way to the top.
Later, when they returned and dug up the tea, they considered it ruined. It was dark, it was smoky from the pine-firing, and it was not at all to their liking. All was not lost, however. Dutch traders had been purchasing tea from the Chinese in Canton and bringing it back to Europe for several years. As most of the tea sold in Canton was probably an early version of wulong or oolong tea that came down the river from the Wuyi Shan in Fujian, the Chinese offered this “new” tea to the Dutch. To their surprise, the Dutch traders loved it, purchased it, and returned the following year looking to buy more. In fact, it is said that the Dutch liked it so much, they offered the Chinese twice as much money for it as for the other teas on offer. As the process was easy to replicate, a new tea was born: bohea.
The term bohea became synonymous for all of the high-quality dark, leafy teas coming from the Wyui Shan at that time. The term black tea was not yet in use. This smoky tea eventually became known in local Fuzhou dialect as La (“pine”) Sang (“wood”) or Lapsang. As the term bohea began to be used for more and more types of dark tea, it began to carry a generic meaning. Many of the finer teas from Fujian were renamed. Souchong was the term coined for quality large-leaf black teas from this region, and the name Lapsang Souchong became the trade name for this tea. Locals, however, have always called it Ooda or Da. Lapsang Souchong is also manufactured in Taiwan. During various times in the history of China and Taiwan, Mainland Chinese citizens have left China to live across the straits in Taiwan. Many of these people were involved with the tea industry in Fujian, and they brought tea-making skills with them to Taiwan and seeded a thriving tea industry there.
The Story of Tea Page 16
