I planned on spending three days in La Paz getting my bearings and acclimatising. I would do at least one altitude walk and come back down to La Paz to start kicking my red blood cells into action. I also wanted to do some networking around potential trekking companies that may be operating. I had made sure my Link Profile was up to date and all my badges were current. If I could prove I knew my stuff, both local area and mountain leadership and that I could get by with a couple of languages I may get some guiding work and be able to stay and explore a little more. Having said that I had earned more than I thought possible so maybe I could be a client for a change? That would be a change…
As we sat in the pub on Sunday evening nursing a drink, Chase said, “You know Prof Chavez who oversees my work?”
“Yes, she’s from South America originally isn’t she?”
“Yeah, Caracas and she also has connections in La Paz. I’ve been telling her about your trip and this morning she called as she thought of you when a colleague told her they’re starting a six month dig in La Paz on the 24th October; it’s an investigation in the Tiwanaku temple. They want to continue the subterranean exploration with a new radar that’s been developed.”
“That’s cool. But what does it have to do with me?”
“Well for one she’s offered to put you in contact with the team. An immediate networking opportunity. If you get on maybe you could get involved in some research, probably just as a grunt, but you’d be right there on the cutting edge. Put it this way, if you don’t take an op like that you’re not who I think you are!”
“You are joking right?”
“No, I do not joke about stuff like this. I would switch places with you in a heartbeat for this op.”
“Wow, thanks. It’s unexpected, but I have no academic training.”
“I’m also told they’re a person down, a German grad student can’t get there. They were mostly going to be used for labour and recording. The recording you can pick up quick. It’s pretty much photography and writing down what other people tell you. Look, unless you come up with some spectacular out of this world reason not to take this gig, for a short time at least, then well… they are not expecting you at all and certainly not for six months, the extra help you could offer would be a bonus to them it’s often the setting up of these investigations that is the toughest part. And you’d better take it or you’ll be getting a swift but hard kick right in the family makers the next time I see you!”
“No pressure then. And you wouldn’t dare.”
Without any notice, a significant warning shot of a foot appeared between my legs from under the table. It connected with the edge of the bench I was on and made a loud enough thud that Nick appeared to check all was okay.
“She means it, dude!” Barney laughed.
“I get that.” No connection with my family jewels had been made but I felt slightly winded and I think the colour had drained from my cheeks. I’m not sure Chase even knew the bench would protect me… Chase was not laughing but smiling sweetly. Sweetly… Every time I thought I knew this girl I found another twist. Not all good twists…
“It looks like everything's falling into place better than you could have imagined eight weeks ago,” said Barney. “Someone must really want you to go!”
“Not me,” said Chase. “I know what I’ve said to you. I want you to go for you, and I know for us. If there can ever be an us you need to go.”
“Shall I go?” Asked Barney looking a little uncomfortable.
“No,” Chase and I said.
No more was said on the subject that night and we moved on to more mundane topics and eventually said goodnight. I walked Chase home as had become a tradition. Not holding hands or touching that night was tough. I was determined not to ruin this and complicate my life again with what would only be a fling at this point. I had bought my flight quotas and so many people had gone out of their way to support me on this year-long escapade. I now actually felt pressure to go.
We got to Chase’s front door. She leant forward and pulled me close to hug me tight. “I’ll see you soon,” she said and went in. I turned around and left in a fog of thoughts and emotions.
I completed one more week of work but my mind was not exactly in the moment. It was already half way to South America with it’s promises of adventure, and now unexpected learning. I was increasingly apprenhentious and also increasingly scared of what could happen to Chase and myself. We’d made no commitment to each other but I’m sure she had emotional and physical needs. I’d certainly not been able to offer at least one of those yet, more’s the pity. I knew my history and I’d always enjoyed the chase. Uh oh; there’s the joke I had better NEVER make in her presence. I’d never had a success rate to be proud of, or even boast about but what can I say, I like female company. Even if it was a fleeting moment in a bar or on a train, anywhere where I could have a conversation with an attractive woman really. Yet I was about to go into the wilderness of temptation again, how would I emerge? It was only now I realised what was at risk here and the level of adventure I was about to embark on. Looking back I think I was the last to realise this.
I managed to maintain sales performance that week and scheduled a meeting with my boss for Friday afternoon. It did not go well. He was not happy about losing me. His team's figures had given him a shot at manager of the year. I was an important part of that team now. It came with a big bonus but he wanted me to stay for another three months. I ended up lying and saying I’d already booked my tickets, it was a sort of white lie as I had my quota.
That night I did book my tickets. The point of no return. A one-way ticket to La Paz. The flight for the 22nd was fully booked. That was unexpected. I would have to get a flight a day earlier or lose a week. The idea of not connecting with Professor Chavez’s contact filled me with dread on many levels. Iwould have one day less to get my stuff straight.
The 21st came faster than expected. I met up with Stu one last time, two days before I left, it was a Sunday. We met at Mum’s coffee shop and went into the small function room next to the kitchen so we could talk in private. It felt a bit odd as the room could easily cater for twenty people and there were just the two of us rattling around in there.
“I wanted to see you properly before I left,” I said. “I have something for you. I want you to look after my beloved for me while I’m gone.”
“Chase? I’m not…”
“Not Chase you fool, well yes Chase, stop confusing me! I’m finding this tougher than I thought. I’ve left God knows how many times before, sorry, God. Look, you’ve even got me swearing. My van, you dullard.”
Stu was grinning at me, he was enjoying my discomfort, but as I said my van his expression changed to shock.
“You what! You always leave that with your folks all wrapped up like some kind of babe in swaddling clothes!”
“Yes but I get the feeling she wants to get out more. Go on adventures and I can’t think of anyone better to take her on those adventures while I’m away. I have conditions though.”
“No doubt!”
“They’re simple. Return as found. The only difference I expect is more miles on the clock. I expect to see at least ten thousand!” I said grinning at him. “I’ve had the van serviced and there are five litres of distilled water either in the tank or at my folks. Only distilled water though. That’s a must. I used bottled water once in the Alps to get me out of a jam. The engine overhaul cost a fortune. She runs on bottled water but not well at all.”
“I don’t know what to say!” he said.
“It’s nice to put the shoe on the other foot for a change. It’s just a shame I don’t have a van for everyone that’s been here for me over the past few months.” I meant that sincerely. “I have one other rule. No entertaining women in her. She’ll tell me and you don’t know where I’ve hidden the cameras”
Stu had the good grace to grin and look embarrassed.
“Done,” he said. “I have some news for you too. Mum and
I hoped we could go public before you left and we can. We found out last Friday that she does have full regrowth of her spinal cord.” I could see him welling up. We sat quietly for a minute or so while Stu composed himself. “The physio has been going well and the muscle tone is coming back to both legs, enough that I’m taking Mum to the limb centre in Exeter this Friday for a fitting for her first prosthesis.”
I’m not ashamed to say that we both hugged and cried a little at this news. It was almost seven years to the day since the accident that had killed his dad and paralysed his mum.
“Hey, if your mum doesn’t need a chair you can take her out in the van!” I said.
“Spot on!” Stu said grinning. “You know our mums are close?”
“Yes.”
“My mum’s kept your mum up to date and she’s offered mine a job, part-time, once she’s on her feet, literally. No strings or time limits. My mum is so excited to be able to start a new chapter.”
“That’s fantastic!”
Stu and I talked until Mum had to ask us to leave as she needed the room.
That night Barney, Amy, Chase and I met at the pub to say our goodbyes. It was actually a quiet night, which I preferred. We mainly just shot the breeze and discussed films. It was a good night. Amy drove Chase home and I walked back via Barney's place.
Monday I spent packing, ensuring I had my down jacket, wicking base layers, mid layers, down sleeping bag and one set of normal clothes. You can’t always look like you’re about to start trekking up the nearest mountain. Sometimes you need to blend in.
I was booked on the early train from Exeter. As Chase was working in Exeter she offered to give me a lift and arrived at my folks' place before sunrise to pick me up. I never liked early starts and with about thirty hours of travel ahead of me I was not in the best of moods.
Seeing Chase cheered me up though, especially when she smiled at me, which sent shivers down my spine. I got in the little two-seater pool car she’d borrowed from the Uni and we drove in silence towards the motorway and on to Exeter arriving at the station with about fifteen minutes to spare. That fifteen minutes was the longest and shortest fifteen minutes I have ever experienced. We got a coffe each and sat on bar stools over looking out over the platform. I did not know what to say and yet wanted to say so much and eventually opted for a side of cheesy with a topping of honesty.
“I want, no need you to know how much you’ve meant to me since we met. I don’t have the words to tell you what you’ve brought to my life. I don’t think I could ever forget you, I know I never want to. I hope to see you again sooner than you can imagine. I wish you were coming with me, I wish was staying. All at the same time.” I looked at her with what I hoped was an honest and sincere expression. In that moment I was not aware of anything or anyone else.
“I know…” she said. Her deep hazel eyes shining at me with the slightest glistening of a tear in them. “If you must know, and I want you to know too, the feeling is mutual. I know I was not looking for a relationship when we met. I know the timing was shit for both of us. I also know I’ve never felt closer to anyone. I have no crystal ball and I’ve never asked anything of you other than not to start anything between us. I couldn’t handle that, knowing you were going. You’ve become my best friend. I really hope you will stay in touch and not disappear into some void I cannot follow. I pray you come back and that the time will be right between us.”
I was close to tears myself.
“Five minutes to the 6 o’clock to London,” came an announcement over the loudspeaker.
All I could say was, “Thanks.” I had a lump in my throat. I reached out and held her hands.
“Do you mind if we say goodbye here?” she eventually asked smiling at me. “I want to remember this moment and just part having had a normal coffee. I don’t think I can watch you leave on a train. It seems too final. Coffee is much more every day.”
I smiled back. “That works.” I looked at my watch, 5.58 am. “I need to go now anyway.” I moved around the table to hug her and I planned on kissing her like that night in the beer garden. Chase had the same idea. I ended up running for my train as the loudspeaker called, “Last call for the 6 o’clock to London.”
As I ran for the train I could just hear Chase laughing and shouting, “Bye, tschüss, au revoir and hasta luego.”
That made me smile. I waved over my shoulder and was gone. I’ve always wondered what Chase did next. I hoped she was okay.
The next twenty-nine hours were spent on autopilot. Once you’d worked out stations and international airports they were all very similar. It was best not to overthink them. Work out where you needed to be and get there on time. Accept this was about the only thing you had any chance of controlling. Once you enter the system of ID controlled borders, that is international travel, very little of your destiny is in your own direct control. The sooner you accept this the happier you will be in the artificial and artificially lit reality that exists in the weird 24 hour time zone that is completely separated from the rest of the world. It’s only once you re-enter truly public space outside the border control system that liberty returns. And that can depend on the country you are in! I always look forward to stepping outside the arrivals building to the smells and sounds of the country I’ve arrived in. Granted, you’re rarely met with garlands of flowers and beautiful people draping them around your neck. More often than not you’re surrounded by smog and the very loud hustle and bustle of an over populated city, with all the smells that go along with that.
Luckily Bolivia and La Paz were relatively liberal and, similarly to the UK, they had a high proportion of immigrant residents creating a diverse and vibrant mix of cultures, mainly of South American, but increasingly North American US citizens were coming south looking for a more tolerant culture. The pendulum was truly swinging.
8.4Shock to the senses
The approach flight to La Paz airport warned me of the size and sprawling nature of the city as we circled into the valley. The buildings appeared to cascade down the slopes towards the valley floor and were built so close together it was almost impossible to see any spaces between them. I could see smoke and steam rising in little spirals from all areas. Presumably cooking fires and heating. It still got down to around 6°C at night even in the early Bolivian summer and was about 6am local time on the 22nd October as I landed. Twenty-nine hours since I had said goodbye to Chase. This was my opportunity for my ultimate adventure, to go to the places I’d only dreamed of going in the last nine years. Yet now it seemed like every day was a day away from Chase or a day closer to seeing her again. I had to get some perspective or I was not going to make the most of this opportunity. As Barnacle had said, ‘Everything has fallen into place, someone must want you to go…’ I was determined to make the most of this for me and for everyone who’d made it possible.
As it turns out stepping out of the arrivals building was no disappointment. The smells and noise instantly surrounded me like a familiar blanket. Not a warm blanket though. More a cool one that has not been washed in a while. The smell of human life and the noise of human interaction was everywhere. I reached for my sunglasses as the light, although not bright and not artificial glare of LED, was intense. Altitude offered other challenges apart from reduced oxygen.
I slowly walked into the street outside the airport trying to feel the beat and pulse of the area. There were the cabs that are found outside arrivals worldwide.
“English, I take you… Cheap,” came the call, or at least similar calls from several cabbies. I’d never worked out what marked me as an English speaker. It could be that most cabbies hedged their bets or that most travellers spoke some English at the very least.
I wanted to start acclimatising immediately so I downloaded a local map and found the two-star hotel I’d chosen for the first week. It was only a short walk so I chose to stretch my legs and explore. I’d always found this, in safer cities, a good way to get a lay of the land and the people when first arriv
ing in a new place. Get away from the tourists and business travellers as fast as possible. Do your research and avoid the likely trouble spots. Much like Mum's flowers. No point in stupid risks like getting stung by the local bees.
The cheaper hotels and hostels in the better areas often opened more metaphorical doors than the expensive posh establishments. Yes, the three, four and five-star places were more comfortable but they wanted you to stay in their thrall and spend money on their attractions and services. The smaller places with little or no resources could offer honest feedback on where to go, or not go. You still needed to be careful not to be taken for a fool and often this also meant that friends and family were recommended as your local guide, food provider or taxi. However, play your cards right and you could quickly work your way into local networks and start to get involved in the local area in a much better way than the veneer that most tourists saw. I had high hopes for the hotel I was heading for.
I chose a route through the old Witch Market. Guide blogs were split over whether it was worth a visit or not. I certainly was not interested in buying any of the stone carved knick-knacks or petrified llama carcases. But I felt I should start exploring somewhere and the witch market seemed as good as anywhere. At least I could then make my own mind up about it.
The market was done in five minutes and it was much the same as tourist bazaars the world over. Even with some of the same trinkets you can buy in bazaars from Kathmandu to Nairobi. At least the pan pipes seemed a bit more at home than they did in Kathmandu or Exeter!
I reached my hotel in about four hours having had an odd snack from a street vendor. I was dog tired and a little breathless as I uploaded some pics to my private SM for my folks, friends and Chase so they would then know I was safe and at my hotel. Instantly a ping came back from Chase. A simple xXx.
Disconnected (Connected series Book 1) Page 12