by Susie Hodge
pleats, tucks, folds or gathers were restricted drastically
no turn-ups on trousers
no lace or embroidery trimmings
similarly, no velvet, fur or leather trimmings
ladies’ skirts to be no longer than knee-length and straight
no elastic waistbands or fancy belts on any ladies’ clothes
heels on ladies’shoes had to be less than two inches high
no double-breasted men’s jackets
a maximum of three pockets were allowed on men’s jackets
a maximum of two pockets were allowed on men’s trousers
a maximum of three buttons were allowed on ladies’jackets
Even the fabrics had to conform to certain regulations. Cheaper wool mixtures, man-made rayon and cotton were all used for civilian clothes, leaving better quality cloth for uniforms. Clothing coupons were still required for Utility clothes; there was simply nothing else to buy unless it was second-hand. Successful and established designers such as Hardy Amies, Norman Hartnell, Berketex and Digby Morton were among those who designed ranges of Utility clothes, and so like Utility furniture, good design was not dispensed with. (Although some who wore the clothes would disagree with that.) Each designer produced designs for four simple outfits, including coats, suits and dresses and 32 of these were shown in London in September 1942, going on sale to the general public the following spring. All clothing carried the Utility mark: CC41, meaning Civilian Clothing 1941. In an attempt to rouse a sense of pride and patriotism despite these new restrictions, Harper’s Bazaar noted that: “the backbone of morale is smartness; smartness and fashion are no longer synonymous.” Similarly, in October 1942, Vogue wrote:
“All women have a chance to buy beautifully designed clothes suitable to their lives and incomes. It [the Utility Scheme] is a revolutionary scheme and a heartening thought. It is, in fact, an outstanding example of applied democracy.”
Although fabric was rationed and relatively basic (with the utility mark stamped on the edge), making clothes was cheaper than buying and the styles could be individually designed. But all clothes had to follow government patterns; even home-made clothing had to follow the Utility Scheme’s strict rules of being plain and practical and not using up too much fabric, following the restrictions above.
Although not happy about the Utility Scheme or clothes rationing, in general, women did not complain as much as possibly expected. They tended to accept it as another challenge to their resourcefulness. The most surprising reaction was that many men complained profusely – and generally only over one main issue! In July 1943, the Board of Trade noted and commented publicly that men’s tailors were frequently being pressed by their customers to evade Utility restrictions, specifically with regard to the ban on turn-ups. It became such an issue that angry debates were held in Parliament and letters of outrage were written to newspaper and magazine editors. Hugh Dalton refused to give way. Scathingly, in 1943, he declared: “There can be no equality of sacrifice in this war. Some must lose lives and limbs; others only the turn-ups on their trousers.” In the same year, The Times printed a “Warning to Tailors”. It began:
“Offences against the Making of Civilian Clothing (Restrictions) Orders are so rife that the Board of Trade has decided that offenders will be summoned…”
The article went on to describe a tailor who had been prosecuted and who, in a statement to a Board of Trade inspector, had said: “I admit I have made about 45 to 50 suits in a non-austerity style during the past ten months, but if I had not done so my business would have ended. I only made these suits to oblige my customers.” The tailor was not alone; it was found that many others were profiting by illicitly making trouser legs a few inches too long, so that purchasers could make their own turn-ups from the extra cloth.
Mrs Sew and Sew
Following on from the success of cartoon characters such as Potato Pete, the Board of Trade began using a little cartoon woman they called “Mrs Sew and Sew” to promote the Make Do and Mend campaign. Mrs Sew and Sew had a cotton reel body and clothes-peg legs. She explained such things as: “How to patch a shirt”, “Keep them tidy underneath”, “Smarten up your men” and “What Mother can do to save buying new”. In conjunction with advertisements, leaflets, classes and demonstrations, short films were made by the Board of Trade and shown at the cinema before feature-length films.
In several leaflets, Mrs Sew and Sew reassuringly introduced topics that were often imperative, but that were not always understood. The little lady would appear on the front of the leaflets, so that readers were uplifted by her supportive face – knowing that if she was on the cover, the contents would be reliable and sensible. Inside the instructions were usually written in clear, step-by-step fashion. In one of her leaflets, called “Deft Darns”, there were some “dos and don’ts” for “repairs that pay”, such as:
• Do darn on the wrong side directly a thin place appears
• Do darn well beyond the weak place
• Don’t wait for a hole to develop
• Don’t make straight edges for your darns; a little irregularity distributes the strain
Save your shoes
One of the many leaflets produced by the Board of Trade featuring Mrs Sew and Sew was Mrs Sew and Sew on Steps you can take to save your shoes. This is an excerpt:
• Buy shoes wisely; remember that fit is more important than appearance
• New shoes will last longer if worn first on a dry day
• Give your shoes a rest; don’t wear the same pair two days running if you can help it
• When you take off your shoes use shoe trees or stuff them with paper to keep the shape
• Damp shoes should be dried out slowly, never near strong heat
• Clean regularly; a little polish every time is better than a lot now and then
• See to repairs promptly, heels especially
• Rubber studs, rubber soles and iron tips will help shoes to wear longer
Sharing, swapping and second-hand
Selling rationed items for money was categorised as black market, for which there could be a prison sentence, but swapping, sharing or buying second-hand goods were all legal. Most newsagents and Post Offices had postcards displayed in their windows saying things like:
Boy’s shoes, black, size 5, hardly worn, swap for large tablecloth Baby’s cot, swap for men’s trousers Floral tea set, four cups and saucers, swap for woman’s raincoat
Many shopkeepers began a sideline in selling second-hand clothes – and several enterprising and practical women made businesses out of their creative abilities. Jean Turner’s mum made a living “turning coats”. Jean explained:
“My mum was very clever at making do and mending and she became well known for this in our neighbourhood. With all her alterations and clever mending, she was running a business from our front room. People brought her their old coats, which she paid for, then she turned the coats inside out and using the inside (the parts that had been protected by lining) as the outside, she cut out and made new coats for children, which she then sold.”
Voluntary organisations such as the Women’s Institute and the WVS gave classes and demonstrations in towns and villages across the country. These gatherings were focal points for many and served as excellent forums for sharing ideas. Pat Fox remembers:
“I used to go to the Women’s Institute meeting once a fortnight with my mother in a church hall. One of the ladies usually gave a demonstration on making or repairing something. I particularly remember how to knit a soft toy or – this must sound a bit strange – how to knit pretend ‘icing’ for a cake! Afterwards, the women used to discuss what they could do with threadbare coats, worn shoes or fraying cardigans.”
The Board of Trade leaflet, A Guide to Woollies, included a lot of extremely useful tips, including a section on “Special Tips for Home Knitters”. Some of the advice in that section included:
“A one plain, one purl single rib i
s better for boys’ wear than stocking stitch.
If possible, use new wool for the welt, when you are re-knitting old wool for the body of the garment. Old wool hasn’t enough elasticity for a firm welt.
When casting on, put the needle behind instead of through stitches. This makes a firm edge, so there is no need to knit into back of stitches in first row.”
Most towns had WVS shoe and clothing exchanges too. These were set up by members of the WVS wherever they could, in outhouses, Town Halls, community centres, empty shops or offices – anywhere they could put a rack of clothes and people could come in and try on the clothes. It proved to be an invaluable service, especially for mothers with children who were outgrowing their clothes before the garments were worn out. WVS clothing exchanges worked on a points system; mothers brought in clothes they could not use and items were awarded a certain number of points, which could be used to “purchase” more suitable items of clothing. Many women got together anyway, meeting in each other’s homes and swapping clothes and other household items, or renovating things that were becoming worn or outgrown.
Wedding dresses were one item of clothing that became scarce early on. Old wedding dresses were usually swapped, (often at the WVS clothing exchanges), and worn several times, borrowed by sisters and friends. At first, white weddings were considered by many to be inappropriate extravagances and even rather distasteful in the circumstances. Then later in the war, more brides aimed to make their weddings as close to peacetime occasions as possible to boost morale and make things feel more “normal”. (In 1938, 409,000 people were married in Britain. By 1940 the number had risen to 495,000, as couples made their relationships more permanent in such an uncertain world.) Yet of course, organising weddings was incredibly difficult, so unless they were in uniform, wartime brides usually wore a simple suit or dress and a plain hat. Many added a small corsage of white flowers pinned to the lapel.
Stockings, shoes and siren suits
From 1940 the production of silk and nylon stockings stopped in Britain as they were both needed for parachutes. Unless they were brought into the country by returning or visiting members of the armed forces, silk stockings were simply no longer available. It is quite legendary that this small luxury was generally the one that women missed the most. The densely knitted lisle stockings that were intended to replace them were universally disliked and many women wore ankle socks instead. Stockings were one item that if they became available on the black market, were highly sought after and are one of the reasons that the American soldiers were so popular with British women. (But only one; with their flattering uniforms, glamorous Hollywood-sounding accents, and supplies of other goods, including branded cosmetics, gum, sweets and money, they seemed like romantic heroes to many local girls.) Young British women who befriended American soldiers often received nylon stockings as gifts from them, which being unavailable in British shops were considered precious commodities. Pretty underwear was not available either, and the only way that feminine lingerie or nightwear could be obtained was for women to make it for themselves. If parachute silk or nylon could not be found, enterprising females used anything from pillowcases or sheets to muslin, eiderdowns, old wedding dresses or pre-war corsets. One of the biggest problems was the lack of elastic; along with silk and nylon, it was extremely difficult to find. Additionally, fewer colours were used for dyeing wartime clothing, as many of the chemicals needed for dyeing were also used in explosives and other indispensable resources needed for the war.
The government tried to promote the idea of wearing clogs as hardwearing, sturdy shoes with wooden soles that did not require much leather, but these were never popular. Unexpectedly, wedge shoes with cork soles caught on. Cork was light, slightly springy, available, long-lasting, fairly cheap and comfortable to wear. Because the wedge softened the effects of walking on hard surfaces, they allowed women to walk for miles. A tip for making shoes last longer was to paint the soles with varnish. Another rather unexpected fashion that emerged was the siren suit. These were all-in-one jumpsuits, similar to boiler suits and they became popular attire for all to wear during air raids. Perfect for speed dressing and for keeping warm, they could be put on over children’s pyjamas and rapidly zipped up at the sound of a siren. Adults and children wore them; even the Princesses Elizabeth and Margaret and Winston Churchill. Yvonne Gilan remembers:
“My grandmother made my siren suit. Siren suits were given their name because when a siren sounded, mothers could quickly put their children into them over whatever we were wearing that day. Just a quick zip up and off we went.”
Over the siren suit some people wore a Kangaroo cloak. Not as popular as the siren suit, this was a warm cloak made of one or two pieces of material – often old blankets – with huge, roomy pockets, which were extremely practical for keeping all sorts of things in to be taken into air raid shelters.
The Make Do and Mend leaflet No. 4, “What Mothers can do to Save Buying New” showed how to reinforce children’s clothes; how to let out and lengthen children’s clothes, hints on cutting new clothes for children and cutting down grown-ups’ clothes for children. In “How to Let Out and Lengthen Children’s Clothes”, ideas included: “As a general rule…the outgrown article should be completely unpicked from hem to underarm each side, and then along the sleeve seam, until the whole garment can be opened out flat in one piece.”
In 1943, Hugh Dalton – who was never as popular as Lord Woolton – wrote to the public in a press advertisement. Entitled “To All of You”, the letter began:
“Two years of clothes rationing have come and gone. There are 600,000 fewer workers making civilian clothes than before the war. That is a saving of man-power of which we can all be proud. To all of you who have so cheerfully made-do, who have mended and managed and got months of extra wear out of your own, your husband’s and your children’s clothes, I say thank you.”
He wrote further messages in more leaflets that same year, including:
“Remember that every coupon unspent means less strain on the country’s resources. To wear clothes that have been patched and darned – perhaps many times – is to show oneself a true patriot….Making-do may at times seem a little dreary. Nearly every woman, and some men, would like something new to wear. But, even when old clothes aren’t exciting, they are a war-winning fashion, to follow which will speed the day of victory.”
In yet another leaflet, also from 1943, Hugh Dalton wrote: “We want to help you get the last possible ounce of wear out of your clothes and household things.” The hints and tips included were practical and useful, and are still valuable for today. Such as:
Tips on taking care of clothes
1. Mend clothes before washing them as a tear or hole may become unmanageable. Keep a look out for loose buttons and other fastenings, frayed buttonholes and split seams, and mend them at once. Save all tapes, ribbons, buttons, hooks and eyes and keep a well-stocked work basket.
2. Cover all shoulders of clothes on hangers with a collar of newspaper to make them last longer. Shut wardrobe doors firmly to keep moths out.
3. Repair shoes as soon as they need it and never walk down the heels. Never dry shoes near heat as it will ruin the leather.
4. Change into old clothes when you’re at home, and give the clothes you have just taken off an airing before putting them away.
5. Don’t throw your things down in a heap when you take them off. While they are still warm, the material will crease. Brush them with a short-haired brush…and shake them well. Then hang them on hangers, making sure that the hangers are wide enough…Do up all fastenings before hanging clothes. This helps them to keep their shape.
6. Remove all stains at once as they usually come out fairly easily before they are set. For grease, use a hot iron on a piece of clean white blotting paper placed over the stain. For all other stains, try plain tepid water first, and then soap and water.
7. Don’t wear clothes and shoes day after day, as a rest does them good.
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8. Never let clothes get really dirty. Dirt injures fabric, so clean or wash clothes when slightly soiled.
Tips to save you time and trouble
In one of the leaflets called “Turn out and Renovate”, further useful tips were suggested in a section called “Tips to save you time and trouble”.These included:
If you particularly like any part of a garment such as the sleeves or neckline, make a paper pattern of it for future use;
Unless you are an expert, never attempt to cut out without using a paper pattern;
When you choose a pattern, be sure the size conforms to your up-to-date measurements;
Be very careful about mixing materials… don’t mix together materials that require different washing treatment.
Bundles for Britain
The British War Relief Society (BWRS) was a US-based charitable organisation that arranged the supply of non-military aid such as food, clothes, medical supplies and financial aid to people in Britain during the conflict. One charity that did not come under the administration of the BWRS however, was “Bundles for Britain”. It began in December 1941, when a Californian philanthropist, Marion Jorgensen, asked her friends to knit garments for British sailors who sailed back and forth across the Atlantic on war missions. The knitting was such a success that Jorgensen began to send further medical supplies and other necessary items to refugees and victims of bombing when the Blitz started. The “Bundles for Britain” scheme as it became known was exceptionally helpful in raising morale in Britain. A Pathé news bulletin of March 1941, showing various closeups of people trying on clothes ran:
