by Deborah Ball
8 Gastel Il mito Versace, p. 18.
9 Interview with Anna Candela, September 16, 2008.
10 Lorella Capparucci, “Due rose rosse appoggiate accanto alle pozze di sangue,” Gazzetta del Sud, July 16, 1997.
11 Interview with Nora Macheda, March 18, 2008.
12 Secret Lives: Versace, original broadcast on December 23, 1997, NBC.
13 Interview with Donatella Benedetto, September 18, 2008.
14 Ingrid Sischy, “Style Is Not a Pain in the Neck,” Interview, June 1, 1995. p. 58.
15 Capparucci, “Due rose rosse appoggiate.”
16 “La Tragica Notizia di Miami,” Gente, July 1997, p. 30.
17 Interview with Anna Candela, September 16, 2008.
18 Roberto Alessi, Versace: Eleganza di vita (Milan: Rusconi, 1990), p. 35.
19 Secret Lives: Versace.
20 Ibid.
21 Interview with Tita Versace, September 17, 2008.
22 Donatella Versace, speech at the memorial for Gianni Versace at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, September 8, 1997.
23 Daniela Fedi, “Basta Pettegolezzi, Noi Non Molliamo,” Il Giornale, June 27, 2004.
24 Lee, “The Emperor of Dreams.”
25 Interview with Donatella Versace, April 7, 2008.
three: Breaking Free
1 Teri Agins, The End of Fashion: How Marketing Changed the Clothing Business Forever (New York: HarperCollins, 1999), p. 27.
2 Nicola White, Reconstructing Italian Fashion: America and the Development of the Italian Fashion Industry (New York: Berg, 2000), p. 82.
3 Marya Mannes, “Italian Fashion,” Vogue, January 1, 1947, p. 119.
4 Samantha Conti, “Fifty Years of Fashion: They Arrived Late to Fashion’s Table, but Have Been Feasting Ever Since,” Women’s Wear Daily, February 22, 2000.
5 White, Reconstructing Italian Fashion, p. 69.
6 Ibid., p. 40.
7 Agins, End of Fashion, p. 23.
8 Interview with Franco Lussana, March 4, 2008.
9 Interview with Santo Versace, June 28, 2008.
10 “La Tragica Notizia di Miami,” p. 28.
11 “Modenese: Che Ansia, Voleva Case in Ogni Angolo del Mondo,” Corriere della Sera, July 17, 1997.
12 Interview with Santo Versace, February 13, 2008.
13 Guarino, p. 52.
14 Interview with Santo Versace, June 28, 2008.
15 Michael Gross, Model: The Ugly Business of Beautiful Women (New York: Warner Books, 1996), p. 250.
16 Interview with Giuseppe Menta, May 16, 2008.
17 Gastel, Il mito Versace, p. 29.
18 Interview with Donatella Girombelli, La Stampa, July 16, 1997.
19 Gastel, Il mito Versace, p. 25.
20 Interview with Franco Lussana, February 20, 2008.
21 Lee, “The Emperor of Dreams,” p. 44.
22 Gigi Monti, interviewed in Secret Lives: Versace.
23 Interview with Franco Lussana, February 20, 2008.
24 Interview with Donatella Girombelli, La Stampa, July 16, 1997.
four: Sister, Playmate, Confidante
1 Fashion Week Daily e-newsletter, May 2008.
2 Daniela Fedi, “Basta Pettegolezzi, Noi Non Molliamo. Donatella Parla Del Futuro dell’Azienda,” Il Giornale, June 27, 2004.
3 Interview with Donatella Versace, April 7, 2008.
4 Interview with Nora Macheda, March 18, 2008.
5 Interview with Donatella Versace, April 7, 2008.
6 Lee, “The Emperor of Dreams,” pp. 51–52.
7 Interview with Donatella Versace, April 7, 2008.
8 Lauren Collins, “Mondo Donatella,” New Yorker, p. 158.
9 Ariel Levy, “Summer for the Sun Queen,” New York, August 20, 2006, p. 48.
10 Interview with Donatella Versace, April 7, 2008.
11 Ibid.
12 Interview with Santo Versace, June 28, 2008.
13 Enno Lagana, “Forse un Giorno Tornerò a Spiare il Sole,” Gazzetta del Sud, July 16, 1997.
14 Interview with Tita Versace, September 17, 2008.
five: A New Era
1 Interview with Santo Versace, June 28, 2008.
2 Ibid.
3 Ibid.
4 Ibid.
5 Interview with Roberto Devorik, April 18, 2008.
6 Interview with Santo Versace, January 26, 2009.
7 Interview with Anne Marie Paltsou, October 7, 2008.
8 Overall sales are a total of all the sales of Versace items made by the franchisees, department stores, and other outlets. Net sales include only the slice that retailers and licensees pay directly to the brand owner. Net sales is considered a more accurate measure of a house’s growth. Versace only began reporting consolidated net revenues in 1988.
9 Interview with Anna Cernuschi, April 2, 2008.
10 Interview with Donatella Versace, April 7, 2008.
six: Rivals and Lovers
1 Interview with Sergio Salerni, March 7, 2008.
2 Interview with Anna Zegna, December 11, 2007.
3 Molho, Essere Armani, p. 30.
4 Richard Buckley, “Since Dawn of Armani, Italian Tailoring a Touchstone for Quality,” International Herald Tribune, March 17, 1997.
5 Agins, End of Fashion, p. 132.
6 Interview with Ellin Saltzman, October 30, 2008.
7 Bridget Foley, “Master Armani,” W Magazine, October 2000, p. 385.
8 Molho, Essere Armani, p. 131.
9 Judy Bachrach, “Armani in Full,” Vanity Fair, October 2000, p. 190.
10 Lee, “The Emperor of Dreams,” New Yorker, p. 53.
11 Mirri, It’s Your Song, pp. 47–50.
12 Ibid., p. 104.
13 Interview with Antonio D’Amico, June 23, 2008.
14 Mirri, It’s Your Song, p. 76.
15 Interview with Antonio D’Amico, June 23, 2008.
seven: Inspiration and Muse
1 Interview with Angelo Azzena, April 8, 2008.
2 Secret Lives: Versace.
3 Interview with Donatella Versace, April 7, 2008.
4 Interview with Angelo Azzena, April 8, 2008.
5 Cathy Horyn, “La Bella Donatella,” Vanity Fair, June 1997, p. 162.
6 Ibid.
7 Interview with Andrea Gottleib, April 24, 2008.
8 Interview with Donatella Versace, April 7, 2008.
9 Interview with Enrico Genevois, March 27, 2008.
10 Interview with Franco Lussana, February 20, 2008.
11 Giusy Ferrè, “Sprazzi di Vita Meravigliosa,” Omaggio a Gianni Versace, Operare, March 22, 2001, p. 27.
12 Ibid.
13 Patrizia Cucco, “Avanti, Senza Sosta,” Omaggio a Gianni Versace, Operare, March 22, 2001, p. 41.
14 Interview with Carolyn Mahboubi, March 6, 2008.
15 Interview with Patrizia Cucco, March 12, 2008.
16 Interview with Nunzio Palamara, July 1, 2008.
17 Interview with Franco Lussana, February 20, 2008.
18 Interview with Dawn Mello, April 25, 2008.
19 Interview with Roberto Devorik, April 18, 2008.
20 Fashion Victim: The Killing of Gianni Versace, first broadcast on November 20, 2001.
21 Interview with Jurgen Oeltjenbruns, February 29, 2009.
22 Interview with Patrizia Cucco, March 12, 2008.
23 Interview with Carlo Casile, September 17, 2008.
eight: Rock and Royalty
1 Gastel, Il mito Versace, p. 99.
2 Philip Norman, Sir Elton: The Definitive Biography of Elton John (London: Pan Books, 2001), p. 7.
3 Graydon Carter, “Starface,” Vogue, October 1989, p. 419.
4 Bronwyn Cosgrave, Made for Each Other: Fashion and the Academy Awards (New York: Bloomsbury USA, 2006), p. 184.
5 Gastel, Il mito Versace. p. 145.
6 Ginia Bellafante, “La Dolce Vita: Gianni Versace Sold the World a Fantasy of Unrestrained Opulence,” Time, July 28, 1997, p. 36.
7 Interview with Giuseppe Ment
a, May 16, 2008.
8 Fashion Victim.
9 James Servin, “Chic or Cruel?” New York Times, November 1, 1992.
10 Interview with Anna Wintour, October 22, 2008.
11 Ibid.
12 Ibid.
13 Interview with Donatella Versace, April 7, 2008.
14 Cathy Horyn, “The Murder on Ocean Drive,” New York Times, July 19, 2007.
15 Interview with Angelo Azzena, April 8, 2008.
16 Interview with Roberto Devorik, April 18, 2008.
17 Fashion Victim.
18 Interview with Franca Biagini, March 13, 2008.
19 Interview with Wayne Scot Lukas, April 25, 2008.
20 Victoria Beckham, That Extra Half an Inch (London: Michael Joseph Ltd, 2006), p. 125.
21 Interview with Donatella Versace, December 15, 2008.
22 Samantha Conti, “The Versace VIP: Celebrities Are an Integral Part of the Weave at the House of Donatella,” Women’s Wear Daily, February 7, 2003.
nine: Supermodels, Superstar
1 Gross, Model, p. 15.
2 Ibid., p. 479.
3 Ibid., p. 491.
4 Interview with Donatella Versace, April 7, 2008.
5 Interview with David Brown, November 22, 2007.
6 Interview with Nunzio Palamara, July 1, 2008.
7 Interview with Angelo Azzena, April 8, 2008.
8 Conti, “Versace VIP.”
9 Gastel, Il mito Versace, p. 207.
10 Interview with Riccardo Gay, May 29, 2007.
11 Gastel, Il mito Versace, p. 202.
12 Interview with Carole White, January 14, 2009.
13 Liz Jones, “Monsters … But,” Daily Mail, September 5, 2007.
14 Gross, Model, p. 492.
15 Interview with Wayne Scot Lukas, April 25, 2008.
16 Polly Vernon, “Naomi Campbell: Catwoman,” Observer, August 7, 2005.
17 Rachel Porter, “Naomi Campbell: After All the Tantrums, Drink and Drugs, I’ve Finally Grown Up,” Daily Express, March 3, 2007.
18 Interview with Carole White, January 14, 2009.
19 Interview with Naomi Campbell, February 8, 2009.
20 Ibid.
21 Natasha Bita, “Model Citizen,” Australian Magazine, April 22, 2006, p. 16.
22 Interview with Phyllis Walters, September 10, 2008.
23 Interview with Angelo Azzena, April 8, 2008.
24 Agins, End of Fashion, p. 37.
25 Richard Martin, Gianni Versace (New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. 1997), p. 14.
26 Andrea Lee, “The Emperor of Dreams,” p. 46.
27 Interview with Anna Wintour, October 22, 2008.
28 Interview with Phyllis Walters, September 10, 2008.
29 Interview with Vicki Woods, September 15, 2008.
ten: Diva
1 Interview with Donatella Versace, April 7, 2008.
2 Interview with François Nars, October 28, 2008.
3 Interview with Norma Stevens, April 18, 2008.
4 Interview with Donatella Versace, April 7, 2008.
5 Interview with Donatella Versace, April 7, 2008.
6 Horyn, “La Bella Donatella,” p. 158.
7 Collins, “Mondo Donatella,” p. 161.
8 Ibid., p. 161.
9 Interview with Donatella Versace, April 7, 2008.
10 Interview with Joan Kaner, January 14, 2008.
11 Horyn, “La Bella Donatella,” p. 186.
12 Interview with Antonio D’Amico, June 23, 2008.
13 Sally Singer, “Coming Clean,” Vogue, May 2005, p. 256.
14 Guy Trebay, “Taking the Fall for Fashion,” New York Times, September 29, 2005.
15 Singer, “Coming Clean,” p. 256.
16 Ibid., p. 256.
17 Interview with Antonio D’Amico, June 23, 2008.
18 Singer, “Coming Clean,” p. 256.
19 Interview with Antonio D’Amico, June 23, 2008.
eleven: Spoiled by Success
1 Interview with Bruce Orosz, May 8, 2008.
2 Tom Austin, “Swelter,” Ocean Drive Magazine, January 8, 1992.
3 Bill Wisser, South Beach: America’s Riviera, Miami Beach, Florida (New York: Arcade Publishing, 1995), pp. 16–22.
4 Interview with Merle Weiss, May 7, 2008.
5 Ibid.
6 Interview with Enrico Fantini, January 10, 2008.
7 Interview with J. Wallace Tutt III, May 11, 2008.
8 Interview with J. Wallace Tutt III, January 2, 2008.
9 Interview with Donatella Versace, December 15, 2008.
10 Interview with Lee Schrager, May 10, 2008.
11 Horyn, “La Bella Donatella,” p. 188.
12 Austin, “Swelter.”
13 Interview with Kevin Crawford, May 21, 2008.
14 Lydia Martin, “In Two Decades, Miami Beach’s Southernmost Square Mile Has Become a Big Draw with Art, Cuisine, Architecture and Nightlife,” Miami Herald, July 15, 2007.
15 Interview with Louis Canales, May 11, 2008.
16 Miami Beach Police Department report, police interview, July 17, 1997.
17 Gastel, Il mito Versace, p. 245.
18 Interview with Kevin Crawford, May 21, 2008.
19 Ibid.
20 Ibid.
21 Merle Ginsberg, “Donatella & Allegra,” Harper’s Bazaar, March 2007, p. 456.
22 Levy, “Summer for the Sun Queen,” p. 48.
23 Daniela Fedi, “Basta Pettegolezzi, Noi Non Molliamo.”
24 Lee, “The Emperor of Dreams,” p. 51.
25 Agins, End of Fashion, p. 35.
26 Interview with Franca Biagini, March 13, 2008.
27 Interview with Ron Frasch, April 23, 2008.
28 Overall sales figures include the sales rung up by franchisees, only a portion of which flowed directly to the house. In 1991, Versace’s net sales were 270 billion lire ($150 million).
29 Amy M. Spindler, “Gianni Versace, 50, the Designer Who Infused Fashion with Life and Art,” New York Times, July 16, 1997.
twelve: Conflict
1 Gastel, Il mito Versace, p. 191.
2 Ibid., p. 140
3 Teri Agins, “How Fallen Gucci Got Its Glamour Back,” Wall Street Journal, January 27, 1999.
4 Mirri, It’s Your Song, p. 94.
5 Lee, “The Emperor of Dreams,” p. 42.
6 Interview with Nora Macheda, March 18, 2008.
7 Interview with Roberto Devorik, April 18, 2008.
8 Roshan, “Surviving at the Top,” p. 40.
9 Interview with Angelo Azzena, April 8, 2008.
10 Interview with Donatella Versace, December 15, 2008.
thirteen :Murder
1 Interview with Franco Lussana, March 4, 2008.
2 Mirri, It’s Your Song, pp. 109–10.
3 Gian Luigi Paracchini, “Faro’ Lo Stilista Senza Copiare Gianni. Era Unico,” Corriere della Sera, June 21, 1998.
4 Interview with Franco Lussana, March 4, 2008.
5 Maureen Orth, Vulgar Favors: Andrew Cunanan, Gianni Versace, and the Largest Failed Manhunt in U.S. History (New York: Dell, 1999), p. 416.