by Nick Zukin
—MCZ
Matzo Ball Soup
Serves 4
With its claimed restorative powers, this timeless deli classic is frequently referred to—only half in jest—as “Jewish penicillin.” These matzo balls avoid the “sinkers versus floaters” debate and steer a safe middle course, benefiting from a little schmaltz, egg whites, and baking soda for a texture everyone can embrace.
1 cup matzo meal
¼ teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Kosher or sea salt
4 large eggs, separated
8¼ cups Homemade Chicken Broth or canned low-sodium chicken broth
¼ cup Chicken Schmaltz
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 medium carrots, thinly sliced (about 1 cup)
2 cups shredded poached or roasted chicken (about 8 ounces)
4 teaspoons chopped fresh dill
To make the matzo balls, in a small bowl, stir together the matzo meal, baking powder, pepper, and 1 teaspoon salt. In a medium bowl, whisk the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Gently fold the matzo meal mixture into the egg whites. In another small bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, ¼ cup of the chicken broth, the schmaltz, and parsley. Gently fold the egg yolk mixture into the egg white mixture until thoroughly combined. Cover the matzo ball dough tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate until the dough is firm enough to shape into balls, at least 1 hour or overnight.
Fill a large, wide pot with at least 3 inches of water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add ½ teaspoon salt for every 1 cup water. Adjust the heat so the water just simmers.
Meanwhile, remove the matzo ball dough from the refrigerator. Fill a small bowl half full of cool water and have ready for dipping your hands while making the matzo balls. (Wet hands will keep the dough from sticking to your fingers and palms.) To form the matzo balls, use a soupspoon to scoop up about 2 tablespoons of the dough. With wet hands, form the dough into a golf ball–size dumpling. Using a slotted spoon, gently place the ball into the simmering water. Continue to form additional balls with the remaining dough. There should be enough dough to form about 12 matzo balls total. Add the matzo balls to the simmering water as you form them. Cover the pot and simmer for 1 hour. The matzo balls can be served immediately. Alternatively, drain the matzo balls and place them on a rimmed baking sheet. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 2 days. Reheat the matzo balls by cooking them in a pot of simmering water until heated through, about 10 minutes.
While the matzo balls are cooking, make the soup. Bring the remaining 8 cups chicken broth to a simmer and add salt to taste. Add the carrots and cook until tender, about 10 minutes. Add the shredded chicken to the broth, heat through, and then remove from the heat. To serve, arrange 3 matzo balls in each warmed soup bowl. Ladle about 2 cups of hot broth over the top, and divide the carrots and chicken evenly among the bowls. Garnish each with 1 teaspoon dill and serve immediately.
Curried Lentil and Sweet Potato Soup
Serves 4
It’s nearly impossible to find a Jewish foods cookbook—or respectable deli—that doesn’t showcase a lentil soup. This version adds lemon juice for a bright note, and sweet potato for body and sweetness, plus curry powder for an extra kick. Though you might think of curry as an oddball addition to a Jewish dish, it is a recurring component in Jewish cooking, documented back at least to the mid-twentieth century. This recipe also echoes the legume-based soups from the Indian subcontinent, where curries are basic to the culinary culture.
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
½ large yellow onion, finely chopped
2 tablespoons curry powder
1 bay leaf
1¼ cups brown lentils, picked through, rinsed, and drained
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
2 dark-orange-fleshed sweet potatoes, peeled and finely chopped (4 cups)
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
2 teaspoons kosher salt
Juice of 1 lemon
Place a large Dutch oven or soup pot over medium heat and add the oil. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent, about 10 minutes. Stir in the curry powder and bay leaf, coating the onion evenly, and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the lentils and garlic, stirring to coat the lentils with the curry, about 30 seconds, and then add 5 cups water. Increase the heat to high and bring the mixture to a boil. Cover the pot, decrease the heat to low, and simmer for 25 minutes.
Add the sweet potatoes, sugar, and salt, stirring to combine, and then bring the soup back to a boil over medium-high heat. Decrease the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the sweet potatoes are tender but not falling apart, about 20 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve immediately.
Seasonal Borschts
With origins in the Ukraine and deep roots throughout Central and Eastern Europe, traditional borscht is readily identified as a tangy, deep purple-red beet soup that can be served hot or cold. Impoverished Ashkenazic Jews naturally adopted borscht as part of their basic diet since beets tended to be cheap and abundant. Variations on the basic beet-based broth typically picked up tartness from different souring agents—zoyers in Yiddish—and depth from whatever meat and bones might be available to enrich the soup. The four borscht versions included here find their respective directions from ingredients commonly available with the cycle of the seasons.
Green Sorrel Spring Borscht
Serves 6
Borscht and beets may seem inseparable, but that has not always been the case. In early medieval times, even before beets were common in the more northerly climes of Eastern and Central Europe, the family soup pot would be filled with any root vegetables and greens that could be foraged close to home. The traditional Ukrainian green borscht evolved to rely on parsnips, potato, and sorrel, an herb that adds a delicate lemony flavor and greenish hue to the soup.
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large leek (white and light green parts), halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
1 medium yellow onion, finely diced
2 large cloves garlic, minced
2 large Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice
2 small carrots, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced into half-moons
1 medium parsnip, peeled, halved lengthwise, and thinly sliced into half-moons
4 cups Homemade Chicken Broth or canned low-sodium chicken broth
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme
¼ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
2 tablespoon minced fresh chives
8 ounces sorrel, trimmed, stems discarded, and leaves coarsely chopped (about 8 cups)
3 to 6 soft-boiled eggs (optional)
In a large soup pot, heat the oil over medium-low. Add the leek and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are very sweet and extremely soft but not brown, about 20 minutes. Decrease the heat to low after about 10 minutes of cooking to prevent browning. Stir in the garlic and cook for 1 minute longer. Add the potatoes, carrots, parsnip, chicken broth, salt, thyme, and pepper. Raise the heat to medium-high and bring the broth to a boil, and then lower the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are just tender, 10 to 12 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mix together the parsley, dill, and chives. Stir half of the herb mixture into the soup and all of the sorrel; the sorrel should wilt into the soup within a few seconds. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.
Cut the soft-boiled eggs, if using, in half lengthwise, and season each half with salt. Portion the soup into war
med bowls and add 1 or 2 egg halves to each bowl. Garnish with the remaining herb mixture and serve immediately.
Cold Beet and Raspberry Summer Borscht
Serves 4
This borscht variation exemplifies the melding of tradition and seasonality. The raspberries add a fruity roundness to the soup’s usual sweet-tart flavor. When they are available—typically peak summer in the Pacific Northwest—substitute supersized loganberries, tayberries, or any red cane berry in place of the raspberries.
6 medium beets, trimmed
1 pound fresh or frozen raspberries, plus 2 cups pristine fresh raspberries
4 allspice berries
2 whole cloves
2 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons kosher salt
Juice and finely grated zest of 2 lemons
1 large cucumber, ends trimmed, halved lengthwise, seeds removed, and finely chopped
½ cup sour cream
4 fresh baby dill fronds, torn into small pieces
Peel and coarsely grate 2 of the beets. Add them, along with 8 cups water and ½ pound of the fresh or frozen raspberries, to a large pot set over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, and then stir in the allspice, cloves, sugar, and salt. Decrease the heat to low, and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside, uncovered, to cool until still warm to the touch, about 30 minutes.
Add the remaining ½ pound fresh or frozen raspberries to the pot. Working in batches, puree the soup in a blender, being sure to include some of the solids along with plenty of liquid in each batch. Pour through a fine-mesh strainer set over a bowl. Discard the solids and transfer the soup to a container with a tight-fitting lid. Stir in the lemon juice. Refrigerate until cold, about 4 hours. (The soup can be made up to this point and refrigerated up to 2 days.)
While the soup is chilling, place the 4 remaining beets in a medium saucepan and add enough water to cover the beets by 2 inches. Put the pot over medium heat and slowly bring to a boil. Turn the heat to low and simmer until the point of a knife easily pierces the beets, about 1 hour. Drain off the hot water and run cold water over the beets until they are cool enough to handle. Peel the beets, and then thinly slice and chop them into bite-size pieces. Transfer to a covered container and refrigerate until ready to serve.
When ready to serve, ladle the soup into 4 chilled soup bowls. Evenly distribute the chopped beets, cucumber, and pristine whole raspberries over the top. Garnish each bowl with a large dollop of sour cream, a little lemon zest, and the fresh dill. Serve immediately.
Autumn Cabbage and Smoked Meat Borscht
Serves 10 to 12
That wild and crazy Zane Caplansky loves his Montreal smoked meat (even though his deli, Caplansky’s, is in Toronto—go figure). We have adapted one of his updated Jewish deli classics to suit our cycle of seasonal borschts. This beet-free version captures the spirit of autumn, since that’s when those giant heads of cabbage overflow the local markets. The smoked meat (or, outside Canada, nearly identical pastrami) is yummy and available anytime, of course. The quantities of vinegar and sugar called for in the recipe are not typos—don’t be alarmed. This is supposed to be a knock-your-socks-off sweet-and-sour stew that’s a party-size meal in a bowl.
1 small green cabbage (about 1½ pounds)
2 tablespoons canola or other neutral oil
1 large white onion, thinly sliced
4 large cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 pound pastrami (or smoked meat), diced
1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes, drained
1 cup distilled white vinegar
⅔ cup firmly packed light brown sugar
Cut the cabbage into quarters lengthwise through the core. Trim out and discard the core from each quarter. Cut the cabbage crosswise into thin slices.
Heat the oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the cabbage, onion, garlic, and salt and stir to coat the vegetables in the oil. Pour in ½ cup water and cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage and onion are tender, 12 to 15 minutes.
Stir in the pastrami, tomatoes, vinegar, and sugar. Pour in enough additional water to cover the mixture by about 1 inch and bring it to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to maintain a low simmer. Skim the foam that rises to the top of the borscht. Cook, uncovered, until the cabbage is very tender and the flavors come together, about 1 hour. Serve immediately, or refrigerate, covered, for up to 5 days.
Beet and Braised Beef Winter Borscht
Serves 6
When the days are short and cold, this winter elixir really hits the spot. The broth is bolstered by a bounty of shredded beef and red cabbage. A tart note comes from the addition of red wine vinegar. Try it as a “souper” starter or on its own as a light meal.
Broth
1 (2½- to 3-pound) 7-blade chuck roast
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
½ large yellow onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, peeled
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon dried dill
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ cup red wine vinegar
12 ounces beets (about 2 large), trimmed, peeled, and grated
Soup
1½ pounds beets (about 4 large), trimmed
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
½ large yellow onion, chopped
½ head red cabbage (about 1 pound), shredded
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 medium Russet potato (about 8 ounces), peeled, grated, and soaked in cold water to prevent browning
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 carrots, coarsely grated
¾ cup red wine vinegar
1 small handful fresh baby dill (3 or 4 sprigs), plus more for garnish
Sour cream, for garnish (optional)
To make the broth, rinse and pat the chuck roast dry with paper towels. Place a 6-quart Dutch oven over medium-high heat, add the oil, and swirl to coat the bottom of the pan. When the oil begins to smoke, add the chuck roast to the pan and brown on both sides, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer the chuck roast to a large plate. Decrease the heat to medium, and then add the onion, garlic, thyme, dill, and salt. Sauté, stirring constantly, until the garlic is fragrant, about 30 seconds. Immediately pour the vinegar into the pan, and use a wooden spoon to scrape up any browned bits clinging to the bottom of the pan. Add the chuck roast back to the pan along with 6 cups water and the grated beets. Bring to a boil, cover, decrease the heat to low, and simmer until the meat is tender but not falling apart, about 2 hours.
Transfer the meat to a cutting board. Pour the broth through a fine-mesh strainer set over a large, clean saucepan, and then set aside. Shred the beef, discarding any bones and gristle, and set aside for use in the soup. Discard any remaining vegetable pieces. Wipe out the Dutch oven to use for the soup.
To make the soup, put the beets in a medium saucepan, add enough water to cover the beets by 2 inches, and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat so the water just simmers, and cook the beets until tender when pierced with the tip of a knife, about 30 minutes. Drain off the water and set the beets aside until cool enough to handle, about 20 minutes. Slip the skins off the beets and grate them using the large holes on a box grater. Set aside.
Bring the strained broth to a low simmer over medium-low heat. Place the Dutch oven over medium heat and add the oil. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the onion. Sauté until it begins to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the cabbage and salt. Sauté the cabbage, stirring occasionally, until it begins to wilt, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, drain the water from the grated potato and squeeze dry.
Add the garlic to the pan with the cabbage and sauté, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the potato, along with the grated carrots, grated beets, and shredded meat. Pour the sim
mering broth over the top and bring to a boil. Cover, decrease the heat to low, and simmer for 20 minutes. Stir in the vinegar and dill. Turn off the heat and leave covered for 5 minutes before serving to allow all the flavors to meld. Garnish each bowl with sour cream, if desired, and a small sprig of dill.
Mushroom-Barley Soup
Serves 8
Modern science teaches that in addition to salty, sour, sweet, and bitter, there is a fifth taste: umami. That’s a Japanese term for a flavor that is sometimes described as “savory” or “meaty.” But meats aren’t the only food packed with umami savor. Mushrooms top the list of umami-intensive vegetables. This soup, richly textured with barley, will have carnivores swearing there’s meat in the pot, while vegans will celebrate that there isn’t.
2 tablespoons canola or other neutral oil
1½ pounds cremini or button mushrooms, stem ends trimmed and sliced
Kosher salt
1 medium white onion, finely diced
1 tablespoon dried thyme
1 bay leaf
3 tablespoons porcini mushroom powder (see Sources and Resources)
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 cup pearl barley
4 medium carrots, diced (about 3 cups)
½ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
