by Nick Zukin
Savory Buckwheat Blintzes
Makes 16 to 20 blintzes
The blintzes common on Jewish deli menus have a lightly sweet cheese filling and crepe-like shell made with white flour. Until the late 1800s, when wheat flour became more accessible, the standard blintz was made with a grayish, nutty-tasting buckwheat wrapper. Buckwheat was relatively cheap and abundant in northern Europe, and it happens to make a heaven-made match for a savory filling. It may take a few tries to get the hang of swirling the buckwheat crepes to a thin, even layer, and they should be quite thin. Keep at it until you’ve mastered the swirling and flipping, even if the first few have to be discarded. Our primary filling is made with potato, but we also offer an alternative in which smoked salmon takes center stage.
Crepes
2 cups milk
¾ cup all-purpose flour
½ cup buckwheat flour
3 large eggs
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, melted
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Potato filling
1 pound (2 medium) Russet potatoes
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
½ large yellow onion, finely diced
Kosher salt
1 cup farmer cheese
½ cup sour cream, plus more for topping the blintzes
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Unsalted butter, for frying
16 to 20 sprigs fresh dill
To make the crepes, combine the milk, all-purpose flour, buckwheat flour, eggs, melted butter, sugar, and salt in a blender. Blend until the mixture is very smooth and frothy, about 20 seconds, stopping once to scrape down the sides with a rubber spatula. The batter should be the consistency of heavy cream; if it is too thick, add 1 to 2 tablespoons water. Refrigerate the batter, covered, for at least 1 hour and up to 2 days before cooking the crepes.
To cook the crepes, heat an 8- to 10-inch nonstick omelet pan over medium heat. Swirl a small pat of butter around the pan to lightly coat, and then pour off the excess. (This only needs to be done before cooking the first crepe and should be enough for the entire batch.) With the handle of the pan in one hand, quickly pour a scant ¼ cup of the batter into the center of the pan, and then immediately tilt the pan in a circular motion, swirling the batter around the pan to coat it with a very thin, even layer. Once the crepe is formed, cook until it is set on one side and the edges easily pull away from the pan, 1 to 2 minutes. Using a combination of a heatproof rubber spatula and your fingertips, delicately lift and flip the crepe over in the pan. Cook until the second side is just set, 20 to 30 seconds. Be sure to pull the crepe from the pan while it is still tender and pliable; if it is crisp, it will crack and tear when it’s filled.
Repeat with the remaining batter. (If you found that the first crepe was too thick, decrease the amount of batter for subsequent crepes accordingly.) Stack the finished crepes between sheets of waxed paper to avoid sticking. Cool them to room temperature. The crepes can sit out at room temperature, covered, for up to 1 day before they are filled. They can also be stored in the refrigerator for several days or in the freezer for up to 1 month.
To make the potato filling, preheat the oven to 400°F. Pierce the potatoes in several places with the tines of a fork. Bake the potatoes directly on the oven rack until they are tender, 35 to 45 minutes.
While the potatoes are baking, heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is tender and lightly browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer the cooked onion to a large bowl and set aside.
When the potatoes are baked and cool to the touch, cut them in half lengthwise and scoop out the flesh. Using a food mill or ricer, puree the potatoes into the bowl with the onion. Let the mixture cool to room temperature, and then stir in the farmer cheese, sour cream, parsley, pepper, and 2 teaspoons salt. Taste and adjust the seasoning, if desired.
To assemble the blintzes, work with a single crepe at a time. Spread about ¼ cup of the filling (a little less if you are using the Smoked Salmon Filling) just below the center of the crepe, leaving about a 1½-inch border on the bottom and either side. Fold the bottom of the crepe over the filling, and then fold in the sides. Roll the blintz up as you would a burrito or other type of filled crepe. Place it on a large platter or baking sheet with the seam side down. Repeat until all of the crepes are filled. The blintzes can be wrapped tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 2 days before frying, or frozen for a few months.
To fry the blintzes, melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter is bubbling, add 4 to 6 of the blintzes, seam side down, and fry until they are golden brown and warmed through, about 2 minutes. Carefully turn the blintzes over and fry them on the other side. Transfer the fried blintzes to a large platter. Repeat with the remaining blintzes, adding more butter to the pan as needed. Serve the blintzes topped with a dollop of sour cream and a small sprig of fresh dill.
Smoked Salmon Filling
For smoked fish lovers and those who prefer a more assertively flavored savory blintz, this filling variation is a keeper. We know our smoked salmon, but any flaky smoked fish should be fine. Use a fork to flake 1 pound of smoked salmon into a small bowl. Add 3 cups farmer cheese, 1 cup sour cream, 3 tablespoons thinly sliced scallions, the finely grated zest of 1 lemon, 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice, 1 teaspoon kosher salt (or less to taste), and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Stir to combine. Use as instructed in the main recipe for the potato filling.
Wise Sons’ Corned Beef Hash
Serves 4
The word corned refers to the grains of salt used to cure beef. In former English usage, any grain (though most commonly cereal grain) was referred to as “corn.” Corning and other methods of salt-curing meat have ancient origins. Inexpensive, long-lasting corned beef brisket became a staple protein among Ashkenazic Jews living in late nineteenth-century New York City. Making hash from corned beef was the last-ditch way to avoid waste by mixing the last scraps of meat with potato, vegetables, and seasonings, then frying it all together. The owners of Wise Sons Deli in San Francisco supplied us with their take on corned beef hash that doesn’t stray too far from tradition. In Evan and Leo’s version, however, the potatoes are first boiled, then deep fried, so they stay super crispy on the outside and soft in the middle. Grilled peppers make a nice addition to the mix.
1½ pounds (3 medium) Russet potatoes
Kosher salt
Vegetable oil, for deep frying
2 tablespoons Schmaltz (see here) or unsalted butter
½ large yellow onion, diced
1 cup chopped green bell pepper
Freshly ground black pepper
12 ounces cooked corned beef, cut into ¼-inch cubes
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
4 to 8 over-easy eggs, for serving
Rye toast, for serving
Peel the potatoes and cut them into ¼-inch cubes. Place the potatoes in a large pot and fill it with water to cover them by 1 inch. Season the water generously with salt and bring it to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to medium-high and simmer until the potatoes are softened but still hold their shape, about 5 minutes. Drain the potatoes thoroughly, and spread them out on a rimmed baking sheet to cool and allow the remaining moisture to evaporate. (The potatoes can be boiled, drained, and cooled a day in advance and stored, covered, in the refrigerator.)
Fill a large, heavy-bottomed pot with 2 inches of oil. Heat the oil over high heat until it registers 360°F on a deep-fat thermometer. Adjust the heat as necessary to maintain the oil temperature. Working in two batches, deep-fry the potatoes until they are crisp and golden brown on the edges, 6 to 8 minutes p
er batch. Use a large slotted spoon or medium-mesh strainer to remove the potatoes from the oil, allowing the excess to drain over the pot, and transfer them to a large bowl. Season the potatoes with a generous pinch of salt while they are still hot.
In a large skillet, melt the schmaltz over medium-low heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the green pepper and season with salt and black pepper. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the onion and pepper are browned on the edges, about 10 minutes more. Increase the heat to medium-high and add the corned beef. Cook until heated through and beginning to crisp on the edges, about 3 minutes. Stir in the fried potatoes and parsley and cook until the mixture is heated through, about 1 minute. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Turn off the heat and cover to keep warm until ready to serve. Serve the hash with the over-easy eggs on top and rye toast on the side.
Stopsky’s Delicatessen:
Homemade Deli Food Away From Home
The Seattle bedroom community of Mercer Island has long been the center of the Jewish community and culture in the Pacific Northwest’s biggest city. It’s far from the trendy neighborhoods popular with many of Seattle’s budding entrepreneurs, but it’s where Stopsky’s Delicatessen owner Jeff Sanderson lives and where, in 2011, he chose to open his living tribute to a struggling but resilient culinary tradition. There’s no doubt when you walk into the small, 35-seat space that Stopsky’s was created to intertwine with the local Jewish community. It’s named for Sanderson’s grandfather, who emigrated here and changed his name “to something less ethnic.” Along one wall is a large and growing collection of photos showcasing generations of the Stopsky/Sanderson family and other Mercer Island locals.
The restaurant is otherwise decorated in muted earth tones with plenty of natural wood. Repurposed church pews share seating duty with a scattering of tables and chairs. An open kitchen is adjacent to the take-out counter. Above the counter, a blackboard announces Stopsky’s sandwich, starter, and beverage offerings. Next to the counter is the obligatory cold case full of deli specialties.
Of course it’s the range of house-made offerings that draws in the locals and distinguishes Stopsky’s from the degraded national deli standard. Breads are one source of pride: challah, plain and seeded; hearty rye; and an array of traditional bagel varieties, plus an updated chewy onion option that incorporates bits of caramelized onion right into the dough. The bagels are hand-rolled, boiled, and baked. There are sweets, too, including seasonal raspberry rugelach with a crispy pastry; hamantaschen in poppy, prune, and apricot flavors; and an impossible-to-resist chocolate babka. Overall, the baking program at Stopsky’s may be the most ambitious among all the revivalist Jewish delis in North America.
That’s not to downplay the other made-in-house offerings. Meats include pastrami, both standard and Wagyu beef versions along with a turkey variation, each long-smoked over alder and encrusted with a coriander and black pepper rub. Also on the house-prepared protein list: corned beef, salami, tongue, and steak’n—boneless beef short rib cured and smoked like bacon. Pork should be so lucky.
Sanderson’s priority is to use local products first, so he eschews the usual Great Lakes whitefish, instead smoking local firm-fleshed fish, such as cod, halibut, or sturgeon, to create a whitefish salad that combines the best of the modern and traditional. Likewise, Pacific salmon is simply smoked or becomes gravlax. And so it goes. Even the mustard is made on-site.
Sanderson has hired a young and eager staff to help build his deli dream as a long-term community contributor. The head baker brings years of experience to the job. The chef, who doubles as the general manager, is dedicated and confident. And the twentysomething floor manager, who’s also the main waitress, exhibits a youth-defying deftness at building rapport with customers young and old.
Stopsky’s, along with Kenny & Zuke’s in Portland, is a mandatory Pacific Northwest stop on any revivalist Jewish deli tour. And it’s true to its motto encapsulating the revivalist ethic: “Tradition, Updated.”
Pastrami Benedict
Serves 4
Eggs Benedict is a luxurious breakfast dish rumored to have originated in New York City as a luncheon offering at the legendary Delmonico’s restaurant. This twisted modern Jewish deli version was adopted at Stopsky’s in Seattle. While the hollandaise and poached eggs are the same as in the original, latkes substitute for bread and pastrami for Canadian bacon. This recipe takes a little extra effort to put together. However, if you have made ahead and frozen some of our Crispy Potato Latkes, the preparation time can be cut in half. Any premium-quality pastrami will suffice in this dish, though naturally we think our Home-Oven Pastrami works best.
Hollandaise sauce
5 large egg yolks
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
Juice of 1 lemon
½ teaspoon kosher salt
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted and kept hot
8 Crispy Potato Latkes
1¼ pounds pastrami, sliced or coarsely chopped
8 large eggs
2 teaspoons distilled white vinegar or freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Preheat the oven to 200°F. Line two large rimmed baking sheets with paper towels.
To make the sauce, place the egg yolks, mustard, lemon juice, salt, and cayenne in a blender and blend on medium speed until frothy. With the blender running, pour in the hot melted butter in a slow, steady stream. Be sure not to add the butter too fast or the sauce will break. If needed, add warm water, 1 tablespoon at a time, to thin the sauce to a consistency that will coat the back of a spoon. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Cover the sauce to keep warm.
Place the latkes on one of the lined baking sheets and put them in the oven to warm up.
In a large skillet over medium heat, and working in two batches, fry the pastrami, turning once or twice, until it is hot, about 5 minutes. Transfer the pastrami to the other lined baking sheet and put it in the oven to stay warm.
To poach the eggs, bring about 2 inches of water to a boil in a large skillet. When the water boils, add the white vinegar. Decrease the heat so the water is just below a simmer. One at a time, crack the eggs into a small bowl and slip them into the water. After about 3 minutes, use a slotted spoon to lift the first egg to see whether the white has completely set. When the whites are set, remove the eggs with a slotted spoon and gently blot the excess water with a clean kitchen towel. Transfer the eggs to a large plate and, if desired, use a paring knife to trim any ragged edges from the whites. Cover the eggs to keep them warm.
To serve, warm the serving plates. With the sauce nearby, remove the latkes and pastrami from the oven. Place 2 latkes on each plate. Pile some of the pastrami on top of each latke. Place a poached egg on top of each stack, and then spoon a generous amount of hollandaise sauce over the top. Garnish with the parsley and serve immediately.
Frittata-Style Salami and Eggs
Makes 4 to 8 servings
In this deli breakfast standard, premium-quality beef salami is the star and coarse mustard adds a complementary but not too powerful kick. Though the recipe calls for kosher salami, you may substitute other good-quality all-beef varieties, such as summer sausage. Or search out a local Russian market for evreyskaya, which is a dry, all-beef salami sometimes sold as “Jewish salami,” with an intense, sharp flavor. Accompaniments might include latkes, rye toast, or even corned beef hash. For ketchup lovers, try our Ajvar as a condiment instead.
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
½ medium yellow onion, finely chopped
8 ounces kosher salami, thinly sliced and quartered
8 large eggs
2 tablespoons whole-grain or stone-ground mustard
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground b
lack pepper
Place a large skillet over medium heat and add the oil. When the oil is hot and begins to shimmer, add the onion. Cook the onion, stirring occasionally, until just beginning to soften, 2 minutes. Add the salami and cook until the onion is translucent and the salami begins to brown, about 8 minutes.
While the onion and salami are cooking, in a large bowl whisk together the eggs, mustard, salt, and pepper. Pour the mixture into the pan along with the onion and salami. Continually stir the mixture until the eggs are opaque throughout and beginning to solidify. Decrease the heat to low and cover the pan. Cook for 3 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and let sit for another 3 to 5 minutes, covered, until the eggs are fully set. Using a thin spatula, loosen the frittata from the bottom of the pan. Place a plate face down over the pan and, holding the bottom of the plate, securely flip the skillet and plate over, turning out the salami and eggs onto the plate in one piece. Cut the frittata in quarters or eighths and serve immediately.
Gravlax
Makes 2 pounds
Cured salmon has long been associated with the Jewish delicatessen. Everyone knows about lox, but for a simple-to-make home-cured salmon, gravlax is the way to go. For many, this mild dill-flavored cure is preferable to the saltier, smokier flavor of lox. Gravlax means “buried salmon,” from the ancient Scandinavian practice of burying salmon in dry sand to preserve it. Fortunately, this method has been refined over the centuries, and making gravlax now is a single-step process requiring only a few inexpensive, readily available ingredients and a few days’ time. We recommend sushi-grade salmon for its premium quality. Serve on bagels, bagel chips, or squares of rye bread with cream cheese, crudités, and pickled veggies.
