A Capitalist in North Korea
Page 27
In the North Korean equivalent of a pilgrimage, most patriots visit the holy mountain, Paekdu, at some point during their lives. Historically, it was a sight of worship for all the surrounding peoples, like the Koreans and the Manchus to the north. All of them considered it the home of their ancestral origins.
On the road to Paekdu, most North Koreans make a pit stop at Samjiyon city. The town is one of the coldest places in the country, with an annual average temperature of about 1 degree below zero. Developers hoped to turn the area into a ski resort, putting up guest houses seen on the right-hand photograph, as well as second-hand ski lifts imported from Switzerland nearby. Even a new power station was built to ensure a smooth operation of the resort. It was a project started in the 2000s, when “sunshine” was at its height. The intention was to fly loads of South Korean tourists directly from Seoul to Samjiyon and to make it an important source of revenue. Indeed, much to their chagrin South Koreans have been able to visit the holy Paekdu mountain only on the Chinese side.
For the businesses endowed enough to send their employees on several-day vacations, the Songdowon beach in Wonsan, and the Myohyang Mountains, are common destinations. The trips usually end with a visit to the International Friendship Palace. It is a large museum collection of halls that harbor gifts presented to the leaders from foreign dignitaries as described further down.
The Songdowon beach is quaint and charming, although it strangely segregates Koreans from foreigners. Koreans pay a 100 won entrance fee, while foreigners pay the equivalent of about $2.50. When the “foreign”-designated beach is empty, Korean can loiter there.
In August 2008, the Pyongyang Times published a patriotic eulogy to the beach: “Holiday makers cultivate their body and mind there, hardening their resolve to work harder for the socialist country which provides every condition for them to lead a happy life.” That statement basically sums up how my colleagues approached the trip: a bid to relax and reflect, so their resolve was hardened when they returned to the workplace.
NORTH KOREAN HOLIDAYS
For more information, see the website of Koryo Tours at http://www.koryogroup.com.
January 1: New Year’s Day
January 8: Comrade Kim Jong Un’s birthday*
February 16: Comrade Kim Jong Il’s birthday (1942)
Day 1 of the first lunar month: Lunar New Year’s Day
April 15: President Kim Il Sung’s Birthday (1912)
May 1: May Day, International holiday of Workers
July 8, 1994: (Juche 83) Memorial day of the death of Kim Il Sung
July 27: Victory in the Fatherland Liberation War (Korean War 1950-1953)
August 15: National Liberation Day (1945)
September 9: Day of the Foundation of the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (1948)
September 12: Chuseok Day (Korean harvest festival and ancestor worshipping)
October 10: Day of the Foundation of the Workers Party of Korea (1945)
December 27: Day of the Promulgation of the Socialist Constitution of the DPRK (1972)
MAJOR NORTH KOREAN COMMEMORATION DAYS
February 20: Machine Workers’ Day
March 5: Farmers’ Day
March 8: International Women’s Day
March 22: Fishermen’s Day
April 5: Public Health Day
April 6: Reforestation Day
April 8: Communications Day
April 25: Korean People’s Army Day
May 11: Railway Day
May 15: Geological Survey Day
May 21: Builders’ Day
June 1: International Children’s Day
June 6: Day of the Foundation of Korean Children’s Union
June 7: Local Industry Day
July 1: Miners’ Day
July 7: Coal-Miners’ Day
August 10: Forestry Workers’ Day
August 20: Air Force Day
August 28: Navy Day and Youth Day
September 5: City Administration Day
September 15: Commerce Day
October 9: Metal Workers’ Day
October 14: Broadcasting Workers’ Day
October 15: Textile Industry Day
November 1: Press Day
November 16: Land and Marine Transport Day
December 6: Chemical Industry Day
*Kim Jong Un’s birthday comes from South Korean media and government sources, which have been picked up by the international press. However, at the time of writing, this date has not been officially confirmed by the North Korean government.
While the Sariwon beach is among the country’s most beautiful, Nampo (pictured) offers a shorter and more convenient trip from Pyongyang. Traveling there also does not require the usual permit by the authorities for leaving Pyongyang. Foreigners and North Koreans were not separated as strictly as in Wonsan, and sometimes the locals even shared their soju, colas and food with foreigners. Here, I take a swim with the management team at Nosotek software JV.
Once per year, co-workers got together to visit Mangyongdae, the birth place of Kim Il Sung. As a child, he was believed to have lived in this modest family home, pictured behind our office workers.
In the Myohyang Mountains, the International Friendship Exhibition is the country’s elite showcase. It’s a large museum with 150 rooms, covering an exhibition area of around 70,000 square meters, almost the size of the legendary Greek city-state, Troy. The curators proudly display hundreds of thousands of gifts from all kinds of global leaders, and especially prime ministers and presidents from countries of the former Soviet and non-aligned countries.
Some of the most entertaining objects? Josef Stalin donated his bullet-proof limousine, Mao Zedong handed over his armored train car, and the U.S. secretary of state Madeleine Albright offered a basketball signed by Michael Jordan. Of course, the museum skews the diplomatic custom of exchanging, rather than only receiving, gifts. The official explanation reads that the lavish souvenirs are “proof of the endless love and respect toward the leaders Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il.”
Enjoying the expat life
At the end of 19th century, Pyongyang with its many churches and believers was nicknamed Jerusalem of the Far East. Even though the North Korean state, on paper, espouses atheism, the authorities have put up Protestant, Catholic and orthodox churches over the past decade for the spiritual needs of expatriates. North Koreans aren’t supposed to attend, although they can be spotted there as well.
However, a true Christian believer in today’s North Korea would be branded a traitor of the worst kind. During the century before the DPRK was founded, white American Protestants from the Bible Belt promoted Christianity as the religion of a superior foreign race, making it today antithetical to the revolution.
The Pyongyang Golf Course is large enough to host an international golf tournament, and will probably do so sometime in the future. With 18 holes at par 72, it covers 120 hectares with 45 hectares of green—double the size of the typical Western fare. It can service up to 100 competitors at a time, and is home to all sorts of shops, restaurants, conference rooms and even a sauna—in short, the course looks like an exceptionally large Western country club. When players take breaks, they can peruse the angling and boating facilities.
In 1987, the ribbon on the course was cut in celebration of Kim Il Sung’s 75th birthday, by the pro-DPRK association of Korean residents in Japan known as Chongryon. Tourists could also check out a few mini-courses, such as Yangakdo golf course (recently turned into a new health complex), the Pyongyang golf practice range, the Mount Kumgang course, and the Nampo Wawoodo golf course with 9 holes. In the photo, amiable and attractive caddies help out my game.
Resident foreigners also make use of the services the leading hotels have to offer. The Koryo, Yangak, Changwangsan and Sosan hotels are all home to indoor swimming pools, and some of them even offer massages. The Koryo Hotel, in particular, is known for brewing beer on site and, along with the Yangak, is home to a revolving restau
rant at the top—offering a good view of the Pyongyang skyline.
Since less than a third of hotel rooms are occupied during most weeks, foreigners don’t need to worry about the hassles of booking a room. In The Guardian, a journalist wrote on her 2010 visit that the British Lawnmower Museum has several thousand more visitors than the country of North Korea, which brings in an average of 1,500 Western tourists and up to 10,000 Asian tourists each year.
The Moranbong Hotel, pictured, is Pyongyang’s only boutique hotel. The room rates for both a double and a single premier “first class” room hover around $140 a night, while a budget third class room goes for $80. The cheapest single room costs $65 a night and includes breakfast. This is a centrally located and a quiet alternative to Pyongyang’s top hotels, which cost about 80% more per night but offer all sorts of amenities. Still, even with 12 rooms, the Moranbong was one of my favorite hang-outs for its quality sushi, and its sauna, pool and fitness center. Karaoke rooms are built into a cave. Western diplomats and NGO staff based in Pyongyang also can be seen lounging around at this charming little spot.
What visiting foreigners and tourists may see in North Korea
For more information, see Lonely Planet Korea by Martin Robinson, et al., published in 2010.
Mansudae Grand Monument, usually the first monument a foreigner must visit. Tourists are expected to bow for the 20 meter tall bronze statue of the eternal president, Kim Il Sung and the late leader Kim Jong Il. Tens of thousands of North Koreans visit the statues on special occasions to pay their respects
Mangyongdae, the birthplace of Kim Il-Sung. It is a central pilgrimage site for North Koreans.
The Arch of Triumph, which is 10 meters higher than the Arch of Triumph in Paris. This is where Kim Il Sung addressed the Koreans for the first time in 1945 after the liberation from the Japanese occupation.
Kumsusan Memorial Palace, the former official residence and office of Kim Il Sung. It was transformed into a mausoleum where the embalmed bodies of Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il are lying viewable inside a clear glass sarcophagus. The mausoleum is much larger than those of Lenin, Mao Zedong and Ho Chi Minh. Unlike the other mausoleums it can be visited only with an invitation.
Fountain Park
Mass games (Arirang)
Local park (Moranbong)
Amusement park
Grand People’s Study House
Korean Central Art Gallery
Pyongyang Metro
Three Revolution Exhibition
Historic Pyongyang
Drive to Kaesong, visit Koryo Museum and Panmunjom/DMZ
Monument to Party Foundation, which consists of a Hammer, a Sickle, and Writing Brush representing workers, farmers and intellectuals. It is 50 meters high, symbolic of its purpose when it was built to mark the 50thanniversary of the founding of the ruling Korean Workers Party.
Juche Tower
Pyongyang Film Studios
Pyongyang Zoo
Book shop
Stamp shop
Kim Il Sung Square
Tomb of King Kongmin
Rotating restaurants on top of Yangak or Koryo hotel
Bar/restaurant on top of TV tower
Korean War Museum and the USS Pueblo, the captured U.S. spy ship
Pyongyang Golden Lane Bowling Alley
Revolutionary Martyrs’ Cemetery (where more than 100 revolutionary martyrs are buried here in graves topped by their busts).
Drive to Myohyangsan, literally meaning “mountain of mysterious fragrance.” The pristine surrounding area of hills, mountain trails and waterfalls is untouched by mass tourism, and offers light hiking and barbecue.
International Friendship Exhibition
Tour with old steam train
Kumgang (Diamond) Mountain at the border with South Korea
The Chilbosan (“seven treasures”) mountain, located in North Hamgyong province and popular for its scenic views. One attraction is the Kaesim Temple, dating from 9th century. Tourists may wander freely in the hills without the tour guides as there is nobody else there.
Paekdu Mountain, the sacred site for all Koreans. The “Son of the Lord of Heaven” descended to earth and the first Korean kingdom was planted, according to Korean mythology.
Swimming at the beach of Wonsan or Nampo
Visit to the West Sea barrage in Nampo, a huge eight-kilometer-long dam with three lock chambers and 36 sluices, allowing the passage of ships up to 50,000 tons. North Korea considers this a major accomplishment.
Chollima Steelworks, the country’s major heavy industry site where the “Juche steel” is made. It was the birthplace of the Chollima movement that still continues to drive the economy.
Tae’an Heavy Machine Tool Complex, another showcase heavy industry complex where workers can be seen manufacturing shaped steel, turbine components, and other products
Tae’an Glass Factory, a state-of-the-art factory set up with Chinese help that produces windows and other glass products for the domestic market. The factory was opened in 2005 in presence of China’s president and North Korea’s leader.
Ryonggang Hot Spa Guesthouse, 10 kilometers from the port city of Nampo. One big main house with restaurant and various rooms and bathroom with large spa bath with very hot salt water gushing out.
School or kindergarten
Cooperative farm
Martial arts school (Taekwon-do, Korea’s traditional martial art)
Some foreigners may also see cities like Hamhung and Chongjin, the second and third largest cities of North Korea. Visits to Sinuju, Taehungdan county and Samjiyon, Musan and Rajin-Songbong may also be arranged if the visitors have a professional reason to go there.
Visitors who would like to change their program by adding, for example, a dog meat restaurant or a school, should ask the Korean tour guides immediately upon arrival in Pyongyang so that they can arrange for that with the authorities.
Don’t forget…
… to bring your medicine with you, as well as basic items such as tampons, condoms, batteries and memory sticks for your camera.
Popular shopping spots:
Stamp Shops near Koryo Hotel in Pyongyang and at the Koryo Museum in Kaesong. Prices range from Euro 0.5 – Euro 10 for a collection.
Postcards can also be bought at the Stamp Shops. Most book shops also have postcards on sale. Some have a large collection of interesting postcards. A postcard costs 0.5 Euro and postage costs from 1 Euro, although stores take all major worldwide currency. The cards can be sent all over the world where they arrive for sure! 3D postcards are particularly popular.
Posters: some hotels sell posters and the Foreign Language Bookstore has one of the best selection of posters. Paekho Art Studio also has an excellent selection of posters.
Artwork can be bought at the Mansudae Art Studio or the Handicraft Exhibition (Min Ye Exhibition Center) and the Paekho Art Studio.
T-shirts with “Welcome to Pyongyang” etc. can be bought at the Wol Hyang Exhibition Center near the Arch of Triumph and the gift shop at the Grand People’s Study House for about Euro 15.
Books: The Foreign Languages Bookstore in Pyongyang has the best and most wide-ranging selection of books. Hotels may have a small choice of books as well.
Films: The Foreign Languages Bookstore is also selling a selection of DPRK movies.
Ceramics: Mansudae Art Studio and Paekho Art Studio have the best selection of beautiful Korean celadon. Quality pieces are signed by the artist. Handicraft can also be found at the Kumgangsan Exhibition Center (near Arch of Triumph) which is also selling traditional Korean food.
Ginseng: Kaesong is famous for growing the country’s best ginseng (insam). Ginseng in various forms including in cosmetics can be bought in Kaesong and in souvenir shops in Pyongyang. The best choice can be found at the Daesong Exhibition Hall run by the company that is the largest Ginseng manufacturer.
Pictured on display is the USS Pueblo, a lightly armed American spy ship that was captured in 1968 for, as North
Korea claimed, spying in North Korean territorial waters, though others argued the ship was on the high seas. President Lyndon B. Johnson, already up to his knees in the Vietnam War debacle, immediately denied the charge. After his administration apologized, and then admitted in writing that the Pueblo had been spying, Pyongyang released the crew of 82 sailors. It was a major propaganda victory for Kim Il Sung: the North Koreans proudly display what they consider a symbol of Yankee aggression, and a proof of the hostile attitude of the U.S. against them.
Today, though, North Korea remains one of the most heavily spied upon countries. Most of the operations are led by the Pentagon and CIA, which send reconnaissance satellites and aircraft over the country every day. Bruce Cumings’ Korea’s Place in the Sun contains a detailed chronology of the “Second Korean War” during the late 1960s, when both sides had frequent skirmishes.
Another sight is the gigantic mausoleum built for Tangun, the mythical king of the first Kingdom of Korea during the the Gojeseon Dynasty from c. 2333 - 237 BCE. It’s located in a convenient location near Pyongyang at the foot of Mount Taebak, where his remains were supposedly found by archaeologists in 1993.
Politics and nationalism may overshadow the truth, and as long as no independent scientists can analyze the evidence, we may never know. Koreans believe that the “grandson of heaven,” as Tangun is referred to in their mythology, founded the kingdom in 2333 BC, and that all Koreans can point to their direct lineage to him. In North Korea, the communist regime at first considered Tangun to be a superstition but later promulgated his story as a historical fact.
Visiting the beautiful Myohyang Mountains, pictured, can be combined with a trip to the International Friendship Exhibition, the world’s largest museum of diplomatic gifts or “dubbed the world’s biggest treasure house” according to Wikipedia on August 19, 2012.3 It’s also good for a nice outing with…