Drain the potatoes in a colander into the sink and then return them to the hot pot. Return the pot to the stovetop. Let the potatoes steam, uncovered, over low heat for 1 to 2 minutes, then pour in the vinegar. Once all the visible vinegar has evaporated, drizzle with the olive oil and toss the potatoes to coat. Remove the pan from the heat and add the salt and pepper. Add the pickles, celery, parsley, and chives and stir to combine.
Taste the salad and adjust the seasonings as necessary. Sometimes you might need a splash more vinegar, pickle brine, or olive oil.
Serve warm or chilled.
RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:
Pickles—whatever you’ve got. Roughly chopped. The crunchier the better.
ANTIPASTO PASTA SALAD
SERVES 10 TO 12 AS A SIDE
Forget the bland pasta salads you’ve eaten in the past. This one is an intense medley of flavorful pickled veg, olives, and feta cheese, with the pasta serving as a welcome break from the sharp, rich flavors. Stir in the feta while the pasta is still slightly warm, which will soften it and add creaminess to the dressing. It’s a great one for summer parties and cookouts, because it can handle sitting out unrefrigerated for several hours without spoiling and is actually best at room temperature rather than straight from the fridge.
1 pound/450 g short-cut pasta (e.g., penne, fusilli, or cavatappi)
3 cups/420 g chopped mixed pickled vegetables, brine reserved
1 cup/135 g chopped olives (e.g., Kalamata or Nyon)
1 cup/175 g chopped roasted red peppers
⅓ cup/80 ml extra-virgin olive oil
4 ounces/110 g crumbled feta cheese
½ cup/30 g loosely packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, chopped
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Cook the pasta in salted water according to the package directions, aiming for an al dente finish. While the pasta cooks, place the chopped pickled vegetables, olives, roasted peppers, and olive oil in a large bowl and stir to combine.
Drain the pasta, shaking it vigorously to remove as much water as possible. Return the hot pasta to the pot and stir in the feta. Let cool for 2 to 3 minutes and then add the pasta and feta to the bowl. Stir to combine. Taste and add the reserved pickle brine as needed. When the pasta is at room temperature and there’s no risk that it will wilt on contact, stir in the parsley and black pepper. Taste and add more pickle brine, if necessary.
RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:
I use big jars of homemade mixed pickle (cauliflower, carrot, colorful peppers, and okra) when I make this salad, but if you don’t have something like that on your shelf, store-bought giardiniera is the next best thing.
HOMEMADE PIZZA
MAKES TWO 12-INCH/30 CM PIZZAS
We eat homemade pizza pretty regularly in my house. Sometimes, it is dressed in the traditional manner, with tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese, and cured meat. Other times, I skip the conventional toppings and choose instead to raid my stash of homemade preserves. Jams, chutneys and relishes are all fair game for these pizzalike creations. They’re good for dinner, make excellent small bites at parties, and the leftovers are always welcome for lunch.
PIZZA DOUGH
2½ cups/300 g all-purpose flour
1½ cups/180 g whole wheat flour
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 (¼-ounce/7 g) packet/2¼ teaspoons instant yeast
2 teaspoons fine sea salt
1½ cups/360 ml hot water (about 110°F/43°C)
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for bowl and pans
TOPPING
½ cup/120 ml jam or fruit butter
4 ounces/115 g cheese (choose something that complements the preserve)
2 handfuls greens
Place the flours, sugar, yeast, and salt in a large bowl and whisk to combine. Add the water and olive oil and work with your hands just until the dough comes together into a ball. Drizzle a bit of olive oil over the dough and smooth over the top.
Cover the bowl with a piece of plastic wrap or a damp kitchen towel and set in a warm, draft-free spot for 1 to 2 hours (the rising time will depend on the room temperature).
Once the dough has doubled in size, gently deflate it and divide into 2 equal-size pieces. At least half an hour before you’re ready to make pizza, preheat your oven to 475°F/246°C. If you have a pizza stone or steel, place it in the oven and bring it up to temperature with the oven.
Drizzle a large rimmed baking sheet with olive oil and place one of the dough balls on it. Using damp hands, work out the dough into a flat oval. The secret is to stretch it a little and then let it rest for a minute or two. Eventually, it will relax and stay put. Each dough ball should stretch to mostly cover a baking sheet, with a small margin of bare pan around the edges of the pizza.
Spread half of the jam out evenly across the stretched dough and top with half of the cheese. Place the pan on the preheated stone and bake for 8 to 12 minutes, or until the jam and cheese and are browned and bubbling and the crust is firm. Repeat to assemble and bake the second pizza.
Remove the pizzas from the oven and let cool for 2 to 3 minutes. Top generously with the greens. Cut into slices and eat while still warm.
Note: If you’re looking for ideas to use this dough with the contents of your pantry, know you will typically need less jam, jelly, or fruit butter for your pizza than you would if you were using tomato sauce. The idea is to keep these sweet spreads in balance with the other toppings, rather than have them dominate the experience. You’ll also see a formula emerge as you read through. I typically pair ½ cup/120 ml of a sweet preserve with 4 to 5 ounces/110 to 140 g of cheese, and finish it off after baking with a generous shower of young salad greens or a flurry of chopped fresh herbs. As you move forward, keep that template in mind and you’ll be hard-pressed to go wrong.
PEACH JAM, ONION, AND GOAT CHEESE PIZZA
MAKES ONE 12-INCH/30 CM PIZZA
The summer I turned twenty-six, my friend Roz lived in an apartment that opened onto a cozy, brick patio. At least once a week, our group of friends would gather in this space to cook dinner together on her inherited charcoal grill. Once the main meal was finished, we’d cut two or three peaches in half and set them, flesh-side down, over the cooling coals. Once they were warmed through and nicely charred, we’d eat them topped with small scoops of yogurt, fresh ricotta, or ice cream. This pizza reminds me of those nights.
½ recipe Pizza Dough (here)
½ cup/120 ml peach jam
5 ounces/140 g goat cheese
½ red onion, thinly sliced
2 handfuls spring mix salad
Prepare your dough and preheat the oven as described here. Thinly spread the peach jam over the dough. Crumble the goat cheese evenly over the jam. Arrange the thin half-moons of onion on top of the cheese.
Place the pan on the preheated stone and bake for 8 to 12 minutes, or until the cheese bubbles, the jam darkens, the onions frizzle, and the edges of the crust have browned.
Remove the pizza from the oven and let cool for 2 to 3 minutes. Top generously with the spring mix. Cut into slices and eat while still warm.
RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:
Peach jam is best, but any mellow stone fruit jam will work in a pinch.
CONCORD GRAPE BUTTER AND CAMEMBERT PIZZA
MAKES ONE 12-INCH/30 CM PIZZA
This pizza is like a melty, sophisticated version of the cream cheese and jelly sandwiches my mom used to make for me when I was young. Good hot or at room temperature, small squares of this one are great for parties.
½ recipe Pizza Dough (here)
½ cup/120 ml Concord grape butter
4 ounces/115 g Camembert cheese, thinly sliced
2 handfuls baby arugula
Prepare your dough and preheat your oven as described here. Thinly spread the grape butter over the dough. Arrange the slices of cheese evenly over the jam.
Place the pan on the preheated stone and bake for 8 to 12 minutes, or until the cheese bubbles
, the jam darkens, and the edges of the crust have browned.
Remove the pizza from the oven and let it cool for 2 to 3 minutes. Top generously with the baby arugula. Cut into slices and eat while still warm.
RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:
Concord grape butter is the best option, but if you don’t have any and can’t find any commercially produced versions, low-sugar plum jams and butters will also work well here. Commercial grape jelly is not a good substitute here.
STRAWBERRY BASIL PIZZA
MAKES ONE 12-INCH/30 CM PIZZA
I was eight years old when I was exposed to the concept of dessert pizza. My family had just moved to Portland, Oregon, and some friends brought a few pies over to our new house to celebrate. Included in the stack was a sweet strawberry-topped pizza, finished with a balsamic reduction and a flurry of chopped mint. I’ve loved the concept ever since.
½ recipe Pizza Dough (here)
½ cup/120 ml strawberry jam
1 cup/170 g diced strawberries
4 ounces/115 g crème fraîche
2 tablespoons thinly sliced fresh basil
Flaky sea salt, for topping
Prepare your dough and preheat the oven as described here. Thinly spread the strawberry jam over the dough. Scatter the diced strawberries on top. Place the pan on the preheated stone and bake for 8 to 12 minutes, or until the jam darkens, the berries soften, and the edges of the crust have browned.
Remove the pizza from the oven and let cool for 2 to 3 minutes. Dollop the crème fraîche evenly over the pizza and distribute the basil confetti over the top. Finish with a pinch of the flaky sea salt. Cut into slices and eat while still warm.
RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:
Smooth berry jams are the ticket here.
MARMALADE, OLIVE, AND FETA PIZZA
MAKES ONE 12-INCH/30 CM PIZZA
My extended family gets together for dinner once a month. When it’s our turn to host, I will often plan a homemade pizza bar. I make several batches of dough and we all make pizzas together. My cousin Sabrina loves bold flavors and this one has become one of her favorites.
½ recipe Pizza Dough (here)
½ cup/120 ml Seville orange marmalade
½ red onion, thinly sliced
4 ounces/115 g crumbled feta cheese
2 tablespoons pitted, chopped Kalamata olives
Prepare your dough and preheat the oven as described here. Thinly spread the marmalade over the dough. Arrange the thin half-moons of onion on top of the marmalade. Spread the crumbled feta evenly and follow it with the chopped olives.
Place the pan on the preheated stone and bake for 8 to 12 minutes, or until the cheese bubbles, the jam darkens, the onions frizzle, and the edges of the crust have browned.
Cut into slices and eat while still warm.
RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:
I like this pizza best with classic orange marmalade, but any citrus preserve is good.
Simple Green Salads
I am known in some circles as a salad whisperer. As a result, when dishes are assigned for potlucks and collaborative meals, I am often asked to bring a big green salad. There’s no black magic or unique skill involved in my salad construction. Instead, I rely on a simple formula that nearly always leads to success.
It all starts with the salad base. Tender or sturdy, greens are the foundation of a salad and need to be flavorful and in bite-size pieces. Baby arugula is a favorite, but I also often use spring mix, torn red leaf lettuce, shredded cabbage, finely chopped romaine hearts, or young spinach.
Once I know what my starting place is going to be, I pick a collection of toppings, choosing carefully so that there’s something crunchy, something creamy, and, if I think the audience will approve, something sweet. Dressings are variations of the vinaigrettes in the Sauces and Condiments section of this book (see here).
Here are some of the elements I like to use in salads, and of course, what I use changes seasonally. Your favorite ingredients will likely be different from mine. Consider building your own list so that on nights when you’re short on inspiration you can refer to it and be reminded of the things you like.
BASE GREENS
Baby arugula
Butter lettuce (torn)
Cabbage (finely shaved)
Escarole
Kale (stemmed, finely chopped, and massaged with a little olive oil to tenderize)
Red leaf lettuce (torn)
Romaine lettuce (chopped fine)
Spinach (young and tender, please)
Spring mix
Swiss chard (stemmed and cut into ribbons)
SOMETHING CRUNCHY
Celery
Crispy tortilla strips
Cucumbers
Finely chopped pickles (I sometimes also use these as a sweet element)
Homemade croutons (cube bread, toss with olive oil and salt, toast until crisp)
Pickled red onions
Toasted breadcrumbs
Toasted nuts and seeds
SOMETHING CREAMY
Avocado
Blue cheese
Goat cheese
Hummus
Pesto
Queso fresco
Russian dressing
SOMETHING SWEET
Apples (slivered)
Dried fruit (e.g., cherries, cranberries, currants, raisins, or homemade dried grape tomatoes)
Halved grapes
Pickled fruit
Pomegranate seeds (these can also do the work of a crunchy element)
Segmented citrus or canned mandarin oranges
The Basic Salad Technique
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE OR 2 AS A MAIN COURSE
This approach to making salads has never let me down. It works equally well for a lunchtime salad for one as it does for a giant salad scaled to feed 25 at a potluck. Just know that if you’re traveling far with this salad, it’s best to keep the wet components separated from the greens until just before serving.
3 to 4 cups/75 to 100 g base greens
2 to 4 ounces/55 to 115 g something crunchy
2 to 4 ounces/55 to 115 g something creamy
1 to 4 ounces/30 to 115 g something sweet
1 to 3 tablespoons Jam Vinaigrette (here)
Combine the ingredients in a large bowl and toss thoroughly to combine. Dress with vinaigrette as desired and serve.
BABY ARUGULA WITH GOAT CHEESE AND PICKLED ONIONS
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE OR 2 AS A MAIN COURSE
4 cups/100 g baby arugula (roughly chopped if it’s leggy)
¼ cup/55 g toasted and chopped almonds
4 ounces/115 g crumbled goat cheese
⅓ cup/55 g well-drained pickled onions
1 to 3 tablespoons Jam Vinaigrette (here)
SPRING MIX WITH AVOCADO AND POMEGRANATE SEEDS
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE OR 2 AS A MAIN COURSE
4 cups/100 g spring mix salad
1 cup/110 g homemade croutons
1 avocado, pitted, peeled, and cubed
1 cup/225 g pomegranate seeds
1 to 3 tablespoons Jam Vinaigrette (here)
BUTTER LETTUCE WITH WALNUTS AND GOAT CHEESE
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE OR 2 AS A MAIN COURSE
4 cups/220 g torn butter lettuce
¼ cup/30 g walnuts, toasted and chopped
2 ounces/55 g crumbled blue cheese
1 cup/110 g slivered apple
1 to 3 tablespoons Jam Vinaigrette (here)
BRAISES, SOUPS, AND ROASTS
Last December, I managed to wow my mom and sister with a jar of salsa, some chicken thighs, and a slow cooker. We were gathered at my sister’s house in Austin and it was my turn to make dinner. When you’re trying to feed six adults and two picky kids, flexibility and customization is the key to a peaceful mealtime, so I decided to put together a taco bar.
Early in the day, I heaped a couple of packages of boneless, skinless chicken thighs in my sister’s slow cooker and covered them with salsa. As the dinner hour approached, I took the lid o
ff the cooker, worked the meat into shreds with a pair of tongs, and increased the heat so that the juices would thicken a little. A few toppings and a stack of fresh corn tortillas later, we gathered around the table and the comfortable quiet of happy eaters fell around us. Later, both my sister and my mom cornered me to ask what I had done to the chicken to make it so good and couldn’t quite believe it was just salsa and chicken. They’ve both made it repeatedly since then. My mom often adds a can of tomatoes, some chopped kale, and a bag of frozen corn and turns it into soup. My sister makes a giant batch and freezes it in resealable plastic sandwich bags for nights when a homemade dinner would otherwise be impossible.
My hope is that this chapter does similar things for your home cooking that the Salsa-Braised Chicken (here) did for my own family. And that you look at these recipes and say, “Can something be both so good and so easy?” I think that you’ll find that the answer is yes.
Salsa-Braised Chicken
Sweet-and-Sour Beef Short Ribs
Jam and Vinegar Braises
The Food in Jars Kitchen Page 7
