Gently deflate the dough and roll it up so that it’s loaf-shaped, then nestle it into the prepared pan. Cover again with the plastic wrap and let it rise until the dough just peeks over the top of the pan, 30 to 40 minutes.
While the dough rises, preheat the oven to 425ºF/218ºC. Remove the plastic wrap, place the pan on the middle rack of the oven, and bake for 10 minutes. Then, lower the heat to 350ºF/180ºC and bake until the bottom of the loaf sounds hollow when tapped, an additional 25 to 30 minutes (if you greased your pan well, it should be easy to tip the loaf out to check). The bread is done when it reaches an internal temperature that reads about 190°F/88°C.
Turn bread out of the pan and let it cool on a wire rack.
Tightly wrapped, this loaf will keep on the counter for up to 5 days. For longer storage, refrigerate or freeze.
RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:
Chutneys made with apples, pears, peaches, or apricots work best. Avoid uncooked chutneys, as they don’t work as well.
FOCACCIA WITH PRESERVES
MAKES 1 LARGE FOCACCIA
Anyone who has done any home canning should have focaccia in their recipe file. It is easy to make, is incredibly flexible, and takes to nearly any preserve you heap on top. Whether you need something to take to a friend’s house or you just want a tasty batch of bread to serve with a pot of soup, this recipe can adapt to suit your needs.
5 cups/600 g all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 tablespoon fine sea salt
2¼ teaspoons instant yeast
1¾ cups/420 ml warm water (110°–115°F/43°–48°C)
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 cup/240 ml jam, chutney, or relish
Flaky finishing salt, for sprinkling
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, stir together the flour, sugar, salt, and yeast. Add the water and mix to combine. Once the water is integrated, switch to the dough hook and knead until the dough is stretchy, 4 to 5 minutes.
Remove the bowl from the mixer. Wet your hands and coax the dough into a ball. Coat it with a tablespoon of oil. Cover the bowl with a damp towel and let the dough rise until it has doubled in size, about an hour or so. Gently deflate the dough and fold it over itself a few times. Reshape it into a smooth ball and let it double in size a second time (this can be done overnight in the refrigerator. If you choose this route, let the dough return to room temperature for about 2 hours before proceeding with baking).
While the dough rises a second time, preheat the oven to 425°F/218°C. Grease an 18 × 13-inch/46 × 33 cm rimmed baking sheet with the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Once the dough is finished its second rise, turn it out onto the prepared pan. Using your hands, stretch it out to the corners of the pan, making small holes with your fingertips as you stretch the dough. The holes will close during baking, but if you don’t make holes through to the bottom of the pan, the bread won’t have its characteristic craggy, pockmarked surface. If the dough is bouncing back too much, let it rest a few minutes and resume your stretching and prodding.
Spread the focaccia dough with the jam. If you’re using a really strongly flavored preserve to top this focaccia, consider using a bit less than the full cup suggested in the ingredients. You can always add more, but it’s hard to back off once the bread is finished.
Sprinkle with the flaky finishing salt. Let it rise again for 10 minutes.
Bake until the top is nicely burnished and a peek at the bottom shows an even brown exterior, 22 to 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and let the focaccia cool in the pan. Do let it cool to room temperature before slicing, to prevent it from becoming gummy inside.
Note: For a thicker, doughier focaccia, bake in a 13 × 9 inch/33 × 23 cm pan. Just make sure to really increase the baking time by at least 5 minutes to ensure that the focaccia is fully baked.
RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:
Any not-too-sweet jam, chutney, or relish will work here. If you’re going in a savory direction, consider scattering some slivered onions or a handful of chopped fresh herbs on top of your preserve.
SWIRLED ROLLS
MAKES 12 ROLLS
These swirled rolls look like cinnamon rolls but have a whole lot more going on in the flavor department. Because the dough is barely sweetened, it is highly flexible and can be filled with either sweet or savory spreads. The dough recipe makes enough for 12 rolls, so if you want some sweet and some savory from a single batch, divide the dough in two, fill as you desire, and divide the finished rolls between a pair of pie plates.
DOUGH
3 cups/360 g all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2¼ teaspoons instant yeast
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
½ cup/120 ml whole milk
½ cup/120 ml water
1 large egg yolk
4 tablespoons/55 g unsalted butter, melted
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature
FILLING
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature
1½ cups/360 ml jam
2 cups/300 g raisins
Place the flour, sugar, instant yeast, and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Stir to combine.
In a spouted measuring cup, whisk together the milk, water, and the egg yolk.
With the mixer running on low speed, stream in the melted butter. Once it is fully incorporated, do the same with the milk mixture.
Once the liquids are fully incorporated, stop the mixer and switch to the dough hook and knead on medium speed for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the dough looks quite elastic.
Grease a large mixing bowl with the room-temperature butter. Working with damp hands to keep the dough from sticking to you, roughly shape the dough into a ball and tuck it into the prepared bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a damp kitchen towel and let it rise until the dough has roughly doubled, 1½ to 2 hours.
Butter a 13 × 9-inch/33 × 23 cm baking dish. Dust your work surface with flour and place the dough on the floury spot. Gently deflate the dough while pushing it into a rough rectangle.
Using a floured rolling pin, coax the dough into a 20 × 12-inch/50 × 30 cm rectangle. Pour the jam onto the dough and, using an offset spatula, spread it out to cover the dough, leaving a 1-inch/2.5 cm border of bare dough on the long edge farthest from you. Evenly distribute the raisins on top of the jam. Starting at the edge closest to you, begin to roll the dough toward the bare border. Wrap as tightly as you can without tearing the dough.
When you’ve reached the border of dough, dab it with water and roll to close. Position the dough log so that the seam is on the bottom. Using a serrated knife, cut the dough into 12 rolls about 1½ inches/4 cm in thick. The easiest way to do this is to cut the log in half first, then each half in half. Then, cut each of the 4 portions into 3. It’s easier to manage and eyeball when you’re working with smaller segments.
Arrange the rolls in the buttered baking dish so that they aren’t touching and the spirals face up. Cover the rolls with plastic wrap or a damp kitchen towel and let them rise until they’ve grown to touch one another, about an hour.
Ten to 15 minutes before you want to bake, preheat the oven to 350°F/177°C. When the rolls are fully risen, uncover and place the baking dish in the hot oven. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the rolls are golden on top and an instant-read thermometer reads at least 200°F/93°C when inserted into the middle of the center roll.
Remove the pan from the oven and let the rolls cool in the baking dish.
RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:
Any well set jam will work here. Apple and pumpkin butter are also delicious.
FILLED SWEET ROLLS
MAKES 12 ROLLS
These tasty rolls are filled with the jam, jelly, marmalade, or fruit butter of your choice. Most recently, I made a batch with Concord grape butter and a scattering of toasted peanuts in place of
the raisins written into the recipe.
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened
1 recipe Swirled Rolls dough (here), rolled and ready to fill
1½ cups/360 ml jam
2 cups/300 g golden raisins (these are optional if you hate them)
GLAZE
2 cups/227 g confectioners’ sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 to 4 tablespoons/30 to 60 ml milk, or as needed
Butter a 13 × 9-inch/33 × 23 cm baking dish. Roll out the dough as described here. Pour the jam onto the dough and, using an offset spatula, spread it out to cover the dough, leaving a 1-inch/2.5 cm border of bare dough on the long edge farthest from you. Evenly distribute the raisins on top of the jam. Starting at the edge closest to you, begin to roll the dough toward the bare border. Wrap as tightly as you can without tearing the dough.
When you’ve reached the unfilled edge of dough, dab it with water and roll to close. Position the dough log so that the seam is on the bottom. Using a serrated knife, cut the dough into 12 rolls about 1½ inches/4 cm thick. The easiest way to do this is to cut the log in half first, then each half in half. Then, cut each of the 4 portions into 3. It’s easier to manage and eyeball when you’re working with smaller segments.
Arrange the rolls in the buttered baking dish so that they aren’t touching and the spirals face up. Cover the rolls with plastic wrap or a damp kitchen towel and let them rise until they’ve grown to touch one another, about an hour.
Ten to 15 minutes before you want to bake, preheat the oven to 350°F/177°C. When the rolls are fully risen, uncover and place the baking dish in the hot oven. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until they are golden on top and an instant-read thermometer reads at least 200°F/93°C when inserted into the middle of the center roll.
Remove the pan from the oven and let the rolls cool in the baking dish.
Prepare the glaze: In a medium bowl, stir together the confectioners’ sugar, vanilla, and 2 tablespoons of milk with a fork or whisk, pressing out any lumps. If it seems too think to pour, add additional milk a splash at a time.
Once the rolls are nearly room temperature, drizzle the glaze across the top.
RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:
Any sweet spread will work well here.
CHEESE AND CHUTNEY ROLLS
MAKES 12 ROLLS
The idea of a savory rolled bun, filled with cheese and chutney, lived in my head long before I made them. I’m happy to say that they are even better in reality than they were in my imagination. The dough is tender and the cheese and chutney meld during baking to become a higher version of their individual selves. They elevate a bowl of soup and are a fun addition to a brunch gathering.
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature, divided
1 recipe Swirled Rolls dough (here), rolled and ready to fill
1½ cups/360 ml apple or pear chutney
2 cups/240 g grated Cheddar cheese
Butter a 13 × 9-inch/33 × 23 cm baking dish with 1 tablespoon of the butter. Roll out the dough as described here. Pour the chutney onto the dough and, using an offset spatula, spread it out to cover the dough, leaving a 1-inch/2.5 cm border on the long edge furthest from you. Distribute the cheese evenly across the chutney-covered territory. Starting at the edge closest to you, begin to roll the dough toward the border. Wrap as tightly as you can without tearing the dough.
When you’ve reached the outer edge, dab the dough with water and roll to close. Position the dough log so that the seam is on the bottom so that it stays closed during slicing. Using a serrated knife, cut the dough into 12 rolls about 1½ inches/4 cm thick. The easiest way to do this is to cut the log in half first, then each half in half. Then, cut each of the 4 portions into 3. It’s easier to manage and eyeball when you’re working with smaller segments.
Arrange the rolls in the buttered baking dish so that they aren’t touching and the spirals face up. Cover the rolls with plastic wrap or a damp kitchen towel and let them rise until they’ve grown to touch one another, about an hour.
Ten to 15 minutes before you want to bake, preheat the oven to 350°F/177°C. When the rolls are fully risen, uncover and place the baking dish in the hot oven. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until they are golden on top, the cheese is melted, and an instant-read thermometer reads at least 200°F/93°C when inserted into the middle of the center roll.
Remove the baking dish from the oven. Rub the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter over the tops of the hot rolls. Serve warm.
RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:
The most important thing to do when tackling this recipe is to make sure that the pairing of cheese and chutney is harmonious. If they go well together, everything else will fall into place.
COOKIES AND BARS
When most people think of incorporating jam into a cookie, the first thing that springs to mind is the classic thumbprint cookie. Traditionally made with tender, butter-rich dough and finished with a pool of sweet jam, it is an outstanding cookie. However, the jammy cookie train doesn’t stop there. I like to stir jam into billowy meringue cookies, spread it out into bars, fold it into triangular Hamantaschen, and roll it into sliceable cookies. You can spread it into rugelach dough or make a savory blue cheese shortbread to serve at a cocktail party. What all these cookies have in common is that they use a consequential amount of jam, are relatively easy to make, and are downright delicious. What are you waiting for? It’s time to start baking!
Classic Buttery Thumbprints
Peanut Butter and Oatmeal Thumbprints
Vegan Jammy Oatmeal Pecan Bar Cookies
Blue Cheese Jam Squares
Shortbread Bars
Jam-Swirled Brownies
Pumpkin Butter Cheesecake Bars
Swirled Meringue Cookies
Quick Strudel
Linzer Bar Cookies
Hamantaschen
Rugelach
Apricot Jam and Walnut Rugelach
Tomato Jam and Goat Cheese Rugelach
Grape Jam and Peanut Rugelach
CLASSIC BUTTERY THUMBPRINTS
MAKES 4 DOZEN COOKIES
In search of a rich, buttery, classic thumbprint cookie? Look no further than this recipe. It is quick, can be made with kids, and never fails to delight. It also uses a dough that does not need to be chilled before baking, which means you can go from craving to cookie in less than an hour.
1 cup/225 g unsalted butter, at room temperature
⅔ cup/135 g granulated sugar
2 large egg yolks
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 cups/240 g all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
Preheat the oven to 350°F/177°C. Line a pair of rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats.
In a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar together. Add the egg yolks and vanilla and beat until combined.
Place the flour and salt in a medium mixing bowl and whisk to combine. Add the flour mixture to the mixer bowl and run on low speed, just until the dough comes together.
Using a 1-tablespoon cookie scoop or a pair of soup spoons, portion the dough into balls of about 1 tablespoon each. Roll the portioned dough into smooth balls, arrange them on the prepared baking pans (I find that 12 cookies per sheet works best), and press a hollow into the center of each cookie with your thumb. Dip your thumb into a dish of water every third or fourth cookie, to keep the dough from sticking.
Dollop about ½ teaspoon of jam into each cookie. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, or until the cookies are just barely browned. Let the cookies cool on the baking sheets for 2 to 3 minutes, just until they have enough structure to be carefully moved to a wire rack. Repeat the process with the remaining dough.
Once baked, these cookies will keep for 3 to 4 days at room temperature in an airtight container. For longer-term storage, wrap well and freeze.
RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:
I like chunky jams in my thumbprints, beca
use they give added interest and texture to a simple cookie. Whatever you choose, opt for something with a strong set, as really syrupy jams often dribble out of the cookie during baking.
PEANUT BUTTER AND OATMEAL THUMBPRINTS
MAKES 3 TO 4 DOZEN COOKIES
These cookies marry the best of a peanut butter cookie with the hearty goodness of an oatmeal cookie and then finish it off with a tasty pool of jam. While I love the classic version of the thumbprint cookie, this one is a close second in my heart. For those who need to avoid peanuts due to allergies, I’ve made this same cookie with sunflower seed butter with delicious, if slightly more crumbly, results.
1 cup/260 ml smooth natural peanut butter
½ cup/110 g packed light brown sugar
¼ cup/60 g unsalted butter, at room temperature
¼ cup/60 ml applesauce
The Food in Jars Kitchen Page 11
