SANDY: From the summit, you walked the whole way from the summit to there with Scott?
LOPSANG: [UI]—so summit to I send Scott first.
SANDY: And you had Scott tied on a line because he was weak?
LOPSANG: After, so, last camp—[UI]—I have rope, many rope. He not walking, so—[UI]—to play ski, like this.
KLEV: He was going to glissade?
LOPSANG: Yeah, and go to other route.
LENE: Yeah. Going the wrong way.*
LOPSANG: People are going this way. Anybody this way. Easy down.
SANDY: But, was he playing when he said, “I’m going to go this way and ski”?
LOPSANG: Yeah. So, he going like this, so that time, so he think it’s easy go like this, walking—[UI].
KLEV: Tim, you saw Scott glissading somewhere. Where was that?
TIM: That was right—South Summit.
LOPSANG: South Summit, I see.
TIM: Yeah, from the top of the first fixed line, above the Southeast Ridge where it goes into rocks.
LOPSANG: He goes down and I play rope, rope him up and up and after so last camp go together many rope, many rope to come down I play down eight hour, but—
SANDY: Was he being funny? Did he think it was fun?
LOPSANG: He say, “Tell her I am very sick. I am—[UI] sick.” [UI]—not all gone. [UI]—I took out ice, and my glove took out—[UI]—make him hot, make him hot, but not—
INGRID: So after he ran out of oxygen, did he drop his oxygen bottle? He put it down?
LOPSANG: [UI]—maybe fifty pressure, have pressure oxygen. But he no use.
SANDY: He took it off?
LOPSANG: No. [Scott said,] “Lopsang, I am dead. I am jumping, going to Camp II, jumping; [UI]—please catch and quick rope to fix here.”
KLEV: And where was that when you tied a rope to him?
LOPSANG: Last camp.
KLEV: Last camp?
NEAL: Which is called the Southeast Ridge.
KLEV: Southeast Ridge?
LOPSANG: Yeah. So people coming this way, he going—[UI]—ski that way.
SANDY: But, was he laughing? Did he think this was funny?
LOPSANG: No laughing.
SANDY: He wasn’t laughing.
LOPSANG: No laughing.
SANDY: He knew he was sick?
LOPSANG: [Lopsang imitates Fischer groaning and saying,] “I’m sick.”
SANDY: Okay, so he wasn’t being crazy.
LOPSANG: That time I checking oxygen pressure, but he said—
KLEV: He had five pounds of pressure, but he took his mask off?
LOPSANG: Yeah, no use.
KLEV: He didn’t want it.
LOPSANG: And, I give to summit, so I give a tea, juice. I give juice. And, please, you go to pass. You are very tired, sick. I come to last, because—[UI]—maybe ten meters rope, so I—[UI]—my ice ax. And, so all people come down, and so Rob, also Doug [Hansen] also summit; after I come back and my ice ax take out, and so I am come quickly, and Rob guide tell me, “Please, Lopsang, you going to Hillary Step. I give to you five hundred dollars. You give to please oxygen. Take up, please,” he tell me.* But I tell you [Harris], “Sorry, my member Scott is sick. I have him. I am going to pass. I am not going to back. I come to pass.” After I come down, so Scott going this way, play ski wrong way, go down. All member going the other way. After I am going to pass, so I have rope take out—[UI]—Rob led down and take up. And, after, so, that time—[UI]—”Lopsang, I no need rope. I am never walking, so I am jumping,” he [Scott] tell me, “I am very sick. I am jumping, Lopsang.” [Lopsang imitates Fischer groaning in pain.] “I am jumping,” he tell me. I tell [Scott], “Please, no problem. I have you. I have rope, and I fix rope and have many rope and we together coming slow, slow, slow come down.” So, two minute come down; then another minute rest. Fifteen minute come down, and so ten-minute rest. After come down, down, so I have two battery, all battery please, and we don’t see—[UI]—and you stay and I’ll come down—[UI]—He [Fischer] say, “I never walking out.” [UI]—[I say,] “Please, we going to Camp IV. Now, Camp IV only twenty minute.” [Lopsang seems to suggest that Scott responded], “Because—maybe, one hour or more.” I tell to [Scott], “Maybe ten minute, twenty minute,” I tell him. But, he [said], “I not walking. I need helicopter.” But, night came, very windy and snow; we cannot see any way. This way—road—this way; this way we no see anything— yeah. And, so I tell [Scott], “Okay, please, you stay here; I make you little hole. You stay here. I send some Sherpa and oxygen and tea.” [Lopsang imitates quaking voice of Fischer.] “Okay, you go down. You go down. You go down. You go down.” I stay together for one hour together, and—[UI]—and to anything I do [Lopsang imitates Scott shivering as he speaks] “You go down. You go down,” he tell me. And after, so, I am also very cold, and I—[UI]—[say to Scott], “Okay, please, Scott, please you never walk anyway. You stay here. I send some Sherpa and Anatoli. I send up oxygen and tea.” But, morning, I send two Sherpa, oxygen and tea, soup, but he is already gone. What can do? I give to—[UI]—to Makalu and Scott only—[UI]—but Makalu not dead. Scott dead.
SANDY: When did Makalu* join?
LOPSANG: Makalu and he two Sherpa, I—
SANDY: When did Makalu come with you?
LOPSANG: Makalu, saw after, after—
SANDY: He saw you after you’d already—[UI]—the hole?
LOPSANG: After, so I bring Scott down, down, down. After, so, Makalu also coming—[UI].
KLEV: Makalu by himself?
LOPSANG: Yeah, he had two Sherpa.
KLEV: He has two Sherpas?
LOPSANG: He had two Sherpa, and after he also no can and two Sherpa gone—[UI]—And after, so I keep together.
LENE: Were Scott and Makalu in the hole together?
LOPSANG: Yeah. When Makalu gets me, his head put here. [UI]—So, I have so only Scott. And, after, so Makalu—[UI] —[I tell Scott and Makalu,] “Okay, you—[UI]—stay here; I send some Sherpa and Anatoli; I send oxygen and tea.” But, morning I send Sherpa and oxygen, tea—
LENE: Yeah.
LOPSANG:—but Makalu is not dead. Scott is dead. What can do? So— [UI]—He stay like this. [I had told Scott,] “You never walk anyway. You stay. No problem. I send strong Sherpa. My father send up, my father and Tashi.” But, he’s, Makalu—[UI]—Scott, all jacket take out and glove throw anyway, like this. And, after, then, two Sherpas use oxygen full pressure, three hour using, and—[UI]—but nothing. Gone. What? We try. So very bad weather that day.
ANATOLI: Very, very, very, very bad.
LOPSANG: That day, so there—[UI]—Many people dead. [UI].
KLEV: Did you and Anatoli talk on radio that night?
ANATOLI: I have not radio contact. I think Pemba and—
LOPSANG: Yeah, he had no radio, but I listen—
INGRID: But, you were in communication with Pemba who had a radio?
LOPSANG: I listen, so they are tell to Anatoli: three oxygen bottle and tea bring up, already gone. Pemba in the Base Camp [Camp IV] contact Camp II contact and I listen. So, but I have—[UI]—new radio— but this one—[UI]—not can, not can.*
LENE: Ah, you couldn’t change the battery.
LOPSANG: Not can, so I change battery.
INGRID: Well, the next communication I got was at one o’clock [1:00 A.M., May 11, 1996]. Yeah, I think I told you that at one o’clock Ngima spoke with Gyalzen, who reported speaking with Lopsang, who was in bad condition and coughing, and at 1:35 [A.M.] Ngima again speaks with Gyalzen, who has reported he has heard from Camp IV. Four members have arrived. Lene is one of them. They will get back with to us with other names—
[GAP ON RECORDING]
INGRID: —Camp IV at three o’clock [3:00 A.M.] we heard from Stuart [Dr. Stuart Hutchison, a climber-client] from the New Zealand team that he found two of our climbers, Anatoli, who was lying on the ground per Scott’s—and Lopsang and had returned them to our camp. At 5:00 A.M. New Zealand team heard from Rob Hall
on the South Summit.
SANDY: We should go back and say that 3:00 A.M. they heard that Anatoli and Lopsang were on the ground couldn’t possibly be factual because we know that they were in other places at the time.
INGRID: Okay. And from then to 7:15 [A.M.] numerous attempts to reach [by radio] Camp IV. At that time we had gotten the South African expedition, who did have contact with their Camp IV, to go and try to give their radios to one of you or to see what was up in our camp. Ian [Woodall]* made an attempt to find the camp, couldn’t, came back. We scoured the base camps here [Everest Base Camp] to see if any of the climbers or Sherpas had a more precise location for where our camp was in relation to other camps. We sort of found some information. We gave that back to the South African team just as they were about to send one of their climbers out to try to find our camp again. We heard from Camp II, that heard from Camp IV, that everyone was in Camp IV except for Scott.
SANDY: At 5:00 A.M.?
INGRID: No, at 8:00 A.M. That’s when we heard from Gyalzen. At 9:20 [A.M.] we heard—this is via again Rob Hall’s communication system. We learned that two Taiwanese Sherpa were leaving to find Makalu. [At] 9:50 A.M. we heard that three Sherpa from the New Zealand expedition were leaving to rescue Rob Hall. At that time Bruce [Herrod] from the South African team† and Neal‡ from the New Zealand team were making rounds at Camp IV to try to determine the extent of personal injury. The rest is just news on the descent, which is not that important right now.
TIM: Lopsang, what time did you get to Camp IV?
LOPSANG: I don’t see, but people tell that three o’clock.
SANDY: You think you got to Camp IV at three o’clock?
LOPSANG: Yeah, the other people tell—[UI].
LENE: Yeah, because I remember Lopsang coming in. I think you brought something hot to drink.
LOPSANG: No.
LENE: No?
LOPSANG: No.
LENE: When you came in and then you—
LOPSANG: I coming—[UI]—your tent—
LENE: Exactly, and you told me that Scott was sleeping at Camp I, at the Southeast Ridge.
LOPSANG: Yeah.
LENE: Yeah, and it must have been around, I think, three o’clock—
LOPSANG: And, I tell to Anatoli also, “Please, Anatoli, you go up. Scott tell you, Anatoli, to come up.”* Yeah.
LENE: That’s right.
LOPSANG: You see my face. All ice.
LENE: I saw you Lopsang. I saw you.
TIM: So when you got to Camp IV, Anatoli was out—or was in the process of looking for the rest of us?
ANATOLI: What?
TIM: When Lopsang got to Camp IV, you had already started the process of looking for us—no? Yes?
ANATOLI: Yes.
SANDY: How did you learn that we were missing?
ANATOLI: What?
SANDY: How did you learn that we were missing? Or did you just see that we weren’t there?
ANATOLI: How I found you?
SANDY: No, how did you decide that we were missing? Did somebody tell you that we were out?
ANATOLI: Nobody. Not information. What I told: Between six and ten o’clock [6:00 P.M. and 10:00 P.M, May 10, 1996] I tried go up. It was stupid idea I understand, because no visibility, possible fall crevasse or get some wrong way and go [off the Kangshung Face], and difficult. I come back with oxygen. And then Martin come, maybe I think ten, ten-thirty he come. I was very glad. I ask him. He didn’t see never nobody. He didn’t see. And go up again. It was wrong. Much better wait and see light. I tried to see some light of headlamp. I was ready with crampon, with shoes with everything, with oxygen, three bottle of oxygen [in] our tent. And then, probably one o’clock [1:00 A.M., May 11, 1996], Neal, who was together with people, come with Klev, with Lene, and people say me, “Tolya, Sandy and Charlotte and Tim stayed and need helping. Maybe like for you, like fifteen minutes.” But, it was more longer way, go flat. First time I go I tried; I was very near. First time, [I missed finding them by] maybe like thirty meters, but I didn’t see nothing. Weather like began snowstorms, very strong wind, very cold and with snow. And, I tried to find them. I maybe go up, but Klev said [to] me, “You don’t need crampon.” And, I wasn’t; I hadn’t crampon, and I get decision came back ask Klev maybe he made a wrong decision. I need crampon. I need go up little bit. I come back again. It was like intuition, without eyes, to find [Camp IV]. Also, spend some time. I don’t know how long, maybe between two and three o’clock I was again in camp and ask people where I can to get you, our group. And people told me, “Tolya, flat, just flat, go China side. You will see.” And to this little tired; I didn’t sleep. I spend no rest because between my start to attempt of summit without rest. I need helping. And I tried to go to Sherpas again, Pemba. Pemba give me a little drink with tea. In this I talked with Lopsang about [and said], “We need to go to help for people, because people I understand very well. It is more than fifteen hours, three bottles [oxygen] finish. Without oxygen, people use oxygen, people cannot move; cannot struggle; hard for life.” It was exactly [as I remember it] for me. And I go inside of Himalayan Hotel [tent housing Sherpas]. I understand Sherpa very tired after attempt, but I understood some four people or five people climb summit, but somebody didn’t climb.* I like to find some fresh power to help myself to carry, because for me only carry somebody it is also difficult in South Col. And I saw Sherpa sleep and used oxygen, sleep, without power, because it is difficult, difficult for me, difficult for Sherpa. I understand it is very well. It is big risky also for life. Sherpa not responsible about this. Is guide responsible. But I saw also Neal; without fresh power it is impossible for him. He made very good job. Because I believe for Neal; Neal will come and I will know which way and I go to help for people. And Neal made this deal; it is very important. If Neal didn’t made this, impossible for me to help for people. Very important thing. And he was without power; he used oxygen; he get very cold, very long time I understand it is necessary. For me it is also. I have big experience for high altitude, but fifteen hours without rest or more than twenty-four hours we spent. In three o’clock it was more than twenty-four hours without rest. In high altitude it is somebody just can to survive this. And I understand also Sherpa cannot go up.
SANDY: Yeah.
ANATOLI: “Maybe somebody?” I ask Pemba. Pemba said, “I try to find fresh power.” I ask everybody.†
SANDY: But, Pemba said no?
ANATOLI: Pemba didn’t said nothing. I think I ask; he didn’t answer. I ask Lopsang—maybe Lopsang strong, but he said he get sickness. He told me, “You need go to Scott, directly up.” But, for me, I understand Scott need helping, but I believe he is strong; he can— Many people survive one night without camp and near of summit of Everest. I know this. And, I believe for people need helping much more than Scott. It is my experience. And I told Lopsang about. Maybe somebody can to help me go for people, but because I afraid about people very much. Somebody, like Lene, told me Sandy died, near to died without moving, without everything, without—also go up to Scott, spend some power. I have some Sherpas from last year expedition who have power like Lhakpa [Galgen Sherpa] from Himalayan Guides and spent to go up.* It is impossible. Sherpa, if you have dangerous, Sherpa don’t like go up. It is exactly. It is normal in the Himalaya. It is work for guides. And, this my decision: go to help for peopled.† Second time also I have tea. I have oxygen and without—I try to find, I understand maybe you have a regulator mask or you have not, and I took. I tried to find extra; it is also time. I spend some time to this. But I was hurry. I try to find mask, regulator, and complete—go to give for you. [I] ask Lopsang. I found this mask, regulator, and fresh new bottle of oxygen and go along. I tried also to [recruit] somebody from another camp, like from Rob Hall, maybe some Sherpas, but nobody. And then, I go directly again this way I made and I saw this light from Tim maybe, somebody voice, saw my light, maybe Tim. Tim felt much better than Charlotte and you [Sandy Hill (Pittman)]. And, I saw like four people, this woman, Japa
nese woman also together with you.‡ And, I found you. And I saw like four people, this woman, Japanese woman [Yasuko Namba]. Maybe it is—I don’t—3:30 [A.M.] probably. I am not sure. Maybe three o’clock. I didn’t see. It is not so important for me. I give oxygen for you. Charlotte took and carry for camp, for our tent. Also, I spent some time. I spend Charlotte, put in the tent. Neal began work with Charlotte, help for Charlotte, get oxygen, get warm, gave warm. I also—Lopsang, Pemba also. Pemba prepare just tea. Because it [the storm] was strong, not visibility, and I saw the situation. Tim told me about this one from Rob Hall expedition, one member [Yasuko Namba] from Rob Hall expedition. I try to find some Sherpa from Rob Hall. I found some Sherpa, Lhakpa [Chhiri Sherpa], from Rob Hall expedition. I told [him] about Japanese woman need help. It is possible to helping? Spend like one hour, give some oxygen, tea and possible to help for this member. I didn’t know about this woman. I think maybe member, and so our camp it is very close. Everybody [members of Rob Hall’s expedition] I understand heard about this [Yasuko Namba’s situation]. I tried also found some Sherpas [Mountain Madness or Taiwanese] who can help me again, but again I tried ask Lopsang about to help. Nobody go. I took again tea, again oxygen, and made this way. I found you [Sandy Hill (Pittman)] and get another bottle oxygen for Tim. Tim was enough strong to go without me and we got with you, Sandy, and we get to camp, maybe near of five o’clock, maybe few minutes past of five, I think, and begin visibility. Just between four and five [o’clock] snowstorm go down. Begin visibility. I spend you to Neal again; Neal began work with you in tent. And this I told [talked] again with Sherpa, with Pemba. We need because Pemba didn’t sleep. Pemba work very hard, but just in camp. He afraid about his life. I understand. It is exactly. And, I ask [said to] Pemba, “Pemba, now I empty. I cannot go with oxygen, without oxygen. I didn’t sleep two night. It is impossible for me. But now it possible. Five o’clock; we need to send two Sherpa with oxygen for Scott. Pemba, please tell somebody; ask.” He said— he was quiet. He didn’t answer, because he understood maybe nobody can. Is hard work, after summit of Everest, again go up. And then, I tried to get some warm for myself. I go directly for Lene. [Participants laugh and Boukreev joins in.] Not for Lene, but near of Lene sleeping bag, and I slept like two hours again. And before I also send Pemba with tea near tent. And I slept like maybe two hours. In two hours, I again ask Pemba about, “Did [you send] some Sherpas for Scott with oxygen?” He said, “No, nobody cannot.” And maybe just nine or ten o’clock, somebody go up with oxygen, your [Lopsang’s] father and Tashi. But I was—
The Climb Page 35
