We took the St. Gotthard railroad from Lugano to Lucerne, and found the ride wonderfully interesting. It conquers the Alps by winding in and out of the cliffs, tunneling hundreds of spurs and finally plunging straight through the heart of Mt. St. Gotthard. At times we could see a series of three tracks below us, over which we had come to reach our present point of observation. The scenery is gorgeous, many waterfalls lending their charm to the rugged, snow-capped mountains. Emerging from the great tunnel after our fast express train had rattled through it in eighteen minutes, we found ourselves literally among the clouds, and from there on we gazed spellbound at the glimpses of roaring rivers, dizzy precipices, pretty Swiss chalets perched here and there in seemingly inaccessible places, and everywhere the green firs lending their soft coloring to the landscape. I am helpless to describe the grandeur and beauty of this mountain scenery; unless one can see it and feel it in person it must remain only a vague impression.
Lucerne is fascinating, and its lake is a gem. The River Reuss, which runs through the town, has a beautiful green color and a very rapid current. Seven bridges, more or less ancient, cross the stream, the oldest two being covered. These last are constructed of wood and one has one-hundred fifty-four quaint paintings depicting scenes in the lives of St. Leodegar and St. Mauritius, while the other has a series called “The Dance of Death.”
The town is surrounded by walls, on which are nine watch towers. Its fine old cathedral, with two slender towers, was erected in 1506. The interior has some fine wood carvings and forged iron work. Thorwaldsen’s famous sculpture of “The Lion of Lucerne,” carved to commemorate the Swiss Guards who fell defending the Tuilleries on August 10, 1792, is a little way from town and cut in the side of a rock cliff. Underneath it are carved in the sandstone the names of the forty-two officers who fell. The surrounding scenery is rugged and picturesque, contrasting vividly with the artistic beauty of the sculpture. It is a fine tribute to those who, although mercenaries, were faithful unto death.
Taking a wheezy little steamer we made a lake trip to the place where William Tell shot the tyrant Gessler — only they say now he didn’t. A chapel marks the spot, and however much others may disbelieve the legend of William and his feats of archery the Swiss certainly maintain their steadfast faith in their hero.
This ride on Lake Lucerne is a unique and delightful experience. The shores are marvelously beautiful whichever way you turn, and you get a superb view of the town with its towers and battlements, the Rigo on one side and on the other Mt. Pilatus frowning down upon the ages from beneath his hood of perpetual snow. Mountains crowd and jostle one another all around Lucerne, but Pilatus dominates all the others. Around the lake, nestling at the foot of the mountains, are many small villages or beautiful villas with finely kept grounds. The greenery is simply gorgeous at this season, and the waters of the lake seem to borrow the same emerald hues. You almost feel that you are gazing at a finely executed picture, instead of upon a natural landscape.
In Lucerne is a grand Casino, with band concerts every day at 4:30 and 8:30. The music is exceptionally good; but we have noticed that nearly all European music is good. The masses understand music better than they do at home, and won’t stand for anything but a good performance. The Casino is subsidized by the town and the hotels, and the admission is only a franc.
At the edge of the lake is a broad promenade shaded by two rows of great horse-chestnut trees that entwine their branches overhead. Comfortable seats are supplied at intervals, and here is the fashionable promenade of the town.
We go directly from here to Paris. There are many more places we might visit, but we are both beginning to tire of sight-seeing and to long for home and a glimpse of our loved ones. It is true that one cannot see too much at a time and retain a clear recollection of it. We have not hurried, and have avoided fixing a time to leave a place until we felt we had exhausted its attractions; but nevertheless a constant succession of scenes grows bewildering, and we would like to rest up for a time and digest the experiences we have swallowed so hungrily.
LETTER XVIII. PARIS
Hotel Normandy, Paris
Our first sight of Paris is a distinct disappointment. If we were dropped into the center of any one of a dozen American cities I might mention, we would find practically the same surroundings. In other words, Paris is very modern and very commonplace — on the surface. It is only when you begin to dig under the crust that you come to a realization that this is really the Paris with a History, and one of the most fascinating histories that any city on earth can boast. Then the tangible and intangible evidences of by-gone ages which you unearth begin to reach out and grip you, and once in their grasp Paris has enslaved you, and you will never again escape its charms.
As for the life and gaiety of Paris of today, that must forever remain a disappointment, if you have believed the tales so persistently dinned in your ears. It is no more alluringly wicked than New York or Chicago, and exhibits no more of dissipation or reckless extravagance. There are more beautifully dressed women, more picturesque costumes, more life and gaiety, more jewels and champagne and music in Cairo in one day than you can find in Paris in a week. Indeed, we have discovered that Cairo is what we have always imagined Paris to be — and what it isn’t. In Paris they will acknowledge that Cairo is today the gayest capital in the world, and that Vienna comes next. But this is by the way — another illusion shattered, but pleasantly so, for we are not hunting for dissipation or even high-life.
Historic Paris is a land of marvels, with a fascinating history. Perhaps you will enjoy a rambling story of countless interesting things I have seen, so I’ll do my best to tell you all about them.
You can’t help admiring modern Paris for its wide, clean streets and its many large open squares. Fine examples of these are the Place de la Concorde and the Place de la Madelaine. These squares or “places” are usually named from some statue or building in or near them. The Place de la Concorde is considered one of the finest in the world. It lies between the Tuilleries Garden, where once stood the palace of the Tuilleries, burned and razed by the revolutionists, and the beautiful driveway known as the Champs-Elysee. In the center is the huge obelisk of Ramses II, brought from Luxor by Napoleon I. It occupies the exact spot where the guillotine stood during the Reign of Terror. On each side are two fine fountains that throw sprays to an immense height, and around the square are monuments representing the chief cities of France. That representing Strasbourg has always been covered with funeral wreaths since it was lost to France in the Franco-German war.
On the Champs-Elysee are situated the Grand et Petit Palais erected for the exhibition of 1900, now used as galleries for art treasures of all kinds. Nearby the magnificent bridge of Alexander III crosses the Seine, each end being flanked on either side with gilded bronze eagles. The entire bridge is decorated with fine bronze reliefs.
The Church de la Madelaine is the most beautiful in Paris, built in the form of a Corinthian temple with a fine colonnade around it. The south façade shows a superb group in sculpture representing Christ judging the world. The interior is rich in marbles and Corinthian columns and is all lighted from above, as there are no windows. The effect is very impressive. The paintings represent events in the life of Mary Magdalene.
There are two fine arches in Paris. The Arc de Triomphe was begun by Napoleon in 1805 to commemorate the victories of the French in the Austerlitz campaign. It is the largest triumphal arch in the world, and is covered with sculptures representing historical events from 1792 to 1815. There are six-hundred and fifty names of officers of Napoleon engraved upon it.
The other arch is called the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, and is modeled after that of Septimus Severus in Rome. The arch was at first surmounted by the famous quadriga stolen by Napoleon from St. Mark’s in Venice, but when forced to return that a copy was substituted. Nearby is a fine statue of Gambetta. In a small side square is a bronze equestrian statue of Joan d’Arc. From the Arc de Triomphe eighteen
avenues diverge, and cannons placed around the arch would sweep the entire city.
The Palais de Trocadero is an immense building filled with reproductions in miniature of all the cathedrals in France, which are both beautiful and curious. From here we obtained a fine view of the Champs de Mars and the Eiffel Tower.
The Tomb of Napoleon was formerly a church. It has a beautiful gilded dome that may be seen from all over Paris, and a marble mosaic pavement dating from Louis XV. The tomb is in an open crypt twenty feet deep and thirty-six feet in diameter. The sarcophagus is of red Finland granite, the gift of Emperor Nicholas of Russia. Twelve large figures, representing the chief victories of Napoleon, surround it, and between these figures are fifty-four flags taken at Austerlitz. The mosaics of the floor of the crypt represent a huge laurel wreath. The crypt is entered through two beautiful bronze doors cast from cannons captured by the emperor. It was Napoleon’s wish to be buried in Paris. He said: “I desire that my ashes repose on the banks of the Seine, in the midst of the French people whom I have loved so well.” This quotation is carved over the bronze entrance to the crypt.
From the tomb you enter the Hotel des Invalides, founded by Louis XIV to shelter soldiers grown old or wounded in the service of the country. Part of this is occupied as a museum of arms, armor and artillery. There are suits of armor worn by the kings of France from Francis I to Louis XIV. In connection is the fine chapel of St. Louis in which many French generals are buried. It is liberally decorated with flags captured in war from other nations.
The Palais Royale was built by Louis XIII for Cardinal Richelieu, and many younger brothers of kings have had their residence there. It is built around a central garden. The palace is now let out in apartments for cheap stores and indifferent restaurants.
The Bourse is modeled after the Temple of Vespatian at Rome. It forms a parallelogram two-hundred twenty feet long, one-hundred thirty-five feet broad and one-hundred feet high, and has sixty-six Corinthian columns about it. It is a very beautiful building.
The Louvre was originally built for a fortress by Philip Augustus, who was contemporary with Richard Coeur de Leon, and has since been added to by many kings of France. From one of its windows Charles IX fired on the flying Huguenots during the Bartholomew massacre. It is an enormous building in the form of a hollow square, and represents the best French architecture of various epochs. In places you see the monograms of Henry II and Catherine de Medicis, of Louis XIII and Anne of Austria, of Louis XIV and Maria Therese, and of many others.
The Louvre is now the repository of one of the greatest if not the greatest collection of art treasures in existence. Here is the home of the Venus de Milo, acknowledged by critic and layman alike the greatest piece of sculpture the world has ever known — yes, or ever will know. The Milo is not only beautiful; it is winning, and compels both your admiration and your love. The expression of the face is wonderfully appealing and sympathetic, and one can gaze upon it for hours and never tire. When you leave this almost living and breathing bit of marble it is with real regret; whenever you are near the Louvre you hasten eagerly for another glimpse at the sweet face and the divine form. They have placed the priceless statue in a circular room, all by itself, and the walls are hung with heavy plush of a deep, dull red. Down the length of a long passage this silent, lovely triumph of art stands revealed to the eye long before you arrive at the shrine itself, and the effect of this arrangement is admirable. Soldiers guard the statue night and day, and it is so arranged that at any alarm of war, fire or pillage the figure is lowered by means of a windlass into an underground vault and automatically locked in. The Venus de Milo dates about 400 B.C. It was found in 1820 in the island of Melos.
The galleries of the Louvre contain many masterpieces by Van Dyck, Rubens, Titian, Delacroix, Guido-Reni, Madam Le Brun — the court painter of Marie Antoinette — Millet, David (who always painted his figures in the nude and dressed them afterward, to get the right proportions), and many other great painters. Months might be spent in these galleries without exhausting their interest. But there are other interesting treasures, too. We saw a sceptre and sword once belonging to Charlemagne, the famous Regent diamond, a beautiful ruby once belonging to Pompadour, and many other rare jewels. There is a great collection of tapestries and of Empire furniture, many Egyptian and Syrian sculptures, art fragments from the middle ages, and indeed enough that is rare and curious to keep one gazing open-mouthed for years.
We entered the room Henry IV died in, and did not wonder he died if it was always as stuffy. We touched (with awe, I admit) many things the historic great had handled in their lifetime. I suppose it’s human nature to be impressed by such things, although there is a great deal that is only saved from being rubbish by being historic.
Facing the Louvre is the church of St. Germain, dating from the twelfth century. From its tower was given the signal for the massacre of the Hugenots in 1572. The interior is subdued, rich and beautiful. We attended Vespers there and enjoyed some excellent music.
On the spot where the Bastille once stood is now the Colonne de Juillet, erected to commemorate the revolution of 1830. The Bastille was torn down in 1789. Only a few stones, piled together and fenced in with iron railings, remain of the original prison. A white marble line set in the pavement of the square marks the outlines of the famous building.
The house of Madame la Marquise de Sevigne is now turned into a museum of French war relics, principally those of the Revolution. It contains also the collections of the personal property of Napoleon, Louis XV and Marie Antoinette, a display of rare Sevres china, and the historic relics from the Conciergerie, the prison where the Queen and so many of the nobility were confined prior to their journey to the guillotine. The museum is very interesting. The house was built in the time of Louis XIV and in the courtyard is a fine bronze of that king on horseback. The Conciergerie is still used as a prison, but the cell where Marie Antoinette was Confined has been turned into a chapel.
We spent an interesting afternoon in the house of Victor Hugo, the place where all his important books were writen. The author was also something of an artist, and a wood carver and cabinetmaker. He had a fancy for painting queer characters upon the walls of his rooms — both imaginary and those he met in life. The carved wood in the dining-room is all his own handiwork, and it is not bad, either. He built a tall desk on which to work, for he preferred to stand when he wrote, and there are many tables and chairs of his own design and workmanship. When he died he lived in a single room in another house, but they brought his bedroom furniture back to this house, as well as all his other belongings, for this was his home during most of his lifetime. Here are all his personal belongings and the gifts from his friends and admirers. The Victor Hugo Society has placed everything just as he used it in his lifetime. It is interesting to examine his pictures, his favorite books, and to see his velvet coat hanging on a peg beside his desk and his pipes lying on a shelf.
I’d mention the Opera House, except that you know I couldn’t go to Paris without seeing it. So many streets branch off from the square in which it stands that one stumbles upon the Opera House at all times, and uses it as a sort of land-mark to guide his straying steps.
The Place Vendome dates from Louis XIV’s time, and is marked by a column made from cannon captured from the enemy. It is an imitation of Trajan’s Column in Rome, and has a statue of Napoleon on its top.
We visited one of the French Markets early in the morning. Here you see women of many classes buying their daily supplies and carrying them away in baskets. The fish market is interesting, for you see live fish in tanks, snails in baskets, and other fish dressed, cooked and ready for the table. All over Paris are women pushing two-wheeled carts filled with vegetables, fruit or flowers — or all three combined, and many people buy one or two cents’ worth of a thing. There is very little fruit, except oranges, to be found in Italy or Switzerland, but a good variety may be had in Paris. On the other hand, there is no candy fit to eat in Pari
s, but excellent chocolates may be obtained in Switzerland and fair bonbons in Naples. America excels them all in confectionery and fruits.
The fine Gothic Tower of St. Jacques is all that remains of the church of that name which the revolutionists destroyed, and they let it stand so they could use it as a watch tower. It was erected in the 16th century.
The justly famed Cathedral of Notre Dame is beautiful both inside and out. Erected in 1163, it is medieval Gothic, with flying buttresses and gargoyles, two huge towers and a magnificent entrance. The interior has a principal nave and double aisles, with thirty-seven chapels around the walls. The kings of France were always married in this cathedral, and in niches over the entrance doors are twenty-eight statues of French kings. The royal program was to be baptized in the chapel of the palace, crowned at Rheims, married in Notre Dame and buried from St. Denis.
The Palais de Luxembourg was built in 1620 for the mother of Louis XIII and used by members of the royal family until the revolution, when it was converted into a prison. It is now a gallery for the works of modern artists. Nearby is the statue of Marshal Ney, Napoleon’s most famous general, killed upon this spot in 1815.
The boulevards of Paris are carefully tended and furnish delightful drives, the most popular being the Bois de Boulogne. Along the boulevards are many restaurants which serve refreshments at tables in pretty gardens and groves.
The restaurants of Paris are not what they are cracked up to be. Parisians deplore the fact that their best chefs have all gone to America. Some are employed in the private homes of our millionaires, the others in our restaurants. We ate in various places and found the best to be Durand’s, the Café de Paris, the Amenonville and the Café Pousse. Paillard’s and Voisin’s are expensive and elegant but no place for hungry people, while the after-theatre resorts of Maxime’s and the Café Americaine are not worth while under any circumstances. In the Quartier Latin the Café d’Harcourt is a popular Bohemienne resort, while near the Moulin Rouge is the famous Dead Rat restaurant, the first allowed to serve rats at the time of the siege. We had an excellent luncheon there. The Café de la Paix is a famous after-theatre resort, and one may see real Parisian life there better than almost anyplace else.
Complete Works of L. Frank Baum Page 905
