The 'Pamper' floor of swish shopping mall Starhill Gallery is dedicated to exclusive spa and beauty treatments. Among the less pricey options (ie treatments from around RM260) here are Asianel Reflexology Spa ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2142 1397; www.asianel.com; Pamper fl, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jln Bukit Bintang; 1½-hr treatments from RM250; h10am-10pm; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang) and the Balinese-style Donna Spa ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2141 8999; www.donnaspa.net; Pamper Fl, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jln Bukit Bintang; h10am-midnight; DAirAsia-Bukit Bintang). Another sybaritic possibility over at Berjaya Times Square is JoJoBa Spa ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2141 7766; www.jojoba.com.my; 15th fl, East Wing, Berjaya Times Square Hotel, 1 Jln Imbi; 1hr massages from RM98; h11am-midnight; DImbi), which claims to be Malaysia's largest tourist spa – come for seaweed wraps, coconut and green tea body scrubs and ginger tea.
If the top-end spas are beyond your budget, there are numerous Chinese massage and reflexology centres strung along Jln Bukit Bintang. Pricing is fairly consistent – around RM100 per hour for a full body massage and RM55 for 30 minutes of foot reflexology, though you can bargain down – but standards vary and some places are slightly seedy. Be prepared: a good foot massage can be rather painful, but the results will be remarkable.
Chinatown, Merdeka Square & Bukit Nanas
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Chinatown, Merdeka Square & Bukit Nanas
Neighborhood Top Five
1Menara KL Getting treetop views from the canopy walkway in KL Forest Eco Park and ascending the tower for a thrilling panoramic lookout from the open-air deck.
2Merdeka Square Standing at the city's colonial heart, surrounded by a handsome ensemble of heritage buildings.
3Kuala Lumpur Heritage Trail Exploring the newly signposted walks around Chinatown and Merdeka Sq.
4PS150 Sipping the creations of some of the city's top mixologists in retro surroundings.
5Central Market Shopping for souvenirs and viewing cultural performances.
Explore Chinatown, Merdeka Square & Bukit Nanas
If there's one part of Kuala Lumpur that's a microcosm of Malaysia's ethnic and historic mix, it's Chinatown. Jln Petaling is its central spine, hosting a bustling night market and bracketed by Chinese arch gates. Explore the surrounding streets and alleys and you’ll find all manner of businesses, from age-old medicine shops to barbers and songbird sellers, not to mention some of KL's best street eats. Alongside the traditional, the neighbourhood's hipper side can be seen in new street art, cafes and cocktail bars clustered around the southern end of Jln Petaling.
Ringed by impressive colonial-era buildings, Dataran Merdeka (Independence Square, but commonly called Merdeka Square) is a hugely symbolic location: this is where the British handed over control of Malaya to its citizens in 1957. Nearby, the graceful Masjid Jamek, the city's oldest surviving mosque, sits at the muddy confluence of the Klang and Gombak rivers, which bequeathed the city its name. The site of the mosque, the river banks and the surrounding streets have been revamped and made more pedestrian friendly with wider pavements, public art and heritage trails as part of the River of Life project.
East of here rise up the wooded slopes of Bukit Nanas (Pineapple Hill), the oldest protected piece of jungle in Malaysia, atop which stands Menara Kuala Lumpur. The tower's observation deck provides fabulous 360-degree views of the city; while at the base are a handful of other attractions including the canopy walkway of the KL Forest Eco Park.
Local Life
AMarket life Join locals shopping for fresh fish, meat, fruit and vegetables at the Chinatown Wet Market. From 4pm to midnight Petaling Street Market sells all manner of counterfeit goods.
ADaily worship Light joss sticks, have your fortune told and heed the call to prayer at the area's historic temples, shrines and mosques.
AHip hang-outs Head to the southern end of Chinatown to tap into the neighbourhood cafe culture at Merchant's Lane, Chocha Foodstore and Aku Cafe & Gallery.
Getting There & Away
ALRT Pasar Seni and Masjid Jamek LRT stations are the most convenient for the area. Plaza Rakyat station connects to Pudu Sentral bus terminal.
ABus Free GO-KL City Buses ease connections between Chinatown, Bukit Nanas and Bukit Bintang. Useful stops include Kota Raya and Muzium Telekom.
AWalking These compact areas are easy to explore on foot.
AMRT New stations Pasar Seni and Merdeka are set to open in 2017.
Lonely Planet's Top Tip
Gain access to the exclusive members-only Royal Selangor Club by joining a free two-and-a-half hour walking tour around Merdeka Sq, laid on by Visit KL every Monday, Wednesday and Saturday at 9am.
Best Eating
A Madras Lane Hawkers
A Merchant's Lane
A Bunn Choon
A Antara Restaurant
A LOKL Coffee Co
Best Drinking
A Omakase + Appreciate
A PS150
A Aku Cafe & Gallery
A Barlai
Best Shopping
A Central Market
A Petaling Street Market
A Museum of Ethnic Arts
A Gahara Galleria
TOP SIGHT
Menara KL
VICTOR MASCHEK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Located within the KL Forest Eco Park, this 421m telecommunications tower, the tallest in Southeast Asia and seventh tallest in the world, offers the city's best views. Come to appreciate the phenomenal growth of the city while enjoying a Malay banquet or afternoon tea at its sky-high revolving restaurant, or to explore the park's treetops on the canopy walkway.
Observation Deck
Although the Petronas Towers are taller structures, the Menara KL (KL Tower) provides a higher viewpoint as its base is already nearly 100m above sea level atop Bukit Nanas. A lift whisks you up 276m to the indoor observation deck in the bulb at the top of the tower, its shape inspired by a Malaysian spinning toy. More thrilling yet is the open air deck at 300m, access to which is weather dependent. Here you can take photos unencumbered by windows and step (if you dare) into the new sky box jutting out from the deck which puts nothing but glass between you and the ground below.
A free shuttle bus runs from the gate on Jln Punchak, or you can walk up through the KL Forest Eco Park and its canopy walkway.
Other Attractions
There's plenty of touristy hoopla at the tower base including a zoo, an F1 simulator and a small aquarium. Look out too for the 150-year-old Jelutong tree that was saved during the tower's construction – find it to the left of the tower lobby.
Don't Miss
AObservation deck
AOpen deck and sky box
ACanopy walkway in KL Forest Eco Park
Practicalities
AKL Tower
A MAP GOOGLE MAP
A%03-2020 5444
Awww.menarakl.com.my
A2 Jln Punchak
Aobservation deck adult/child RM52/31, open deck adults only RM105
Ahobservation deck 9am-10pm, last tickets 9.30pm
AgKL Tower
TOP SIGHT
Merdeka Square
GRACETHANG/GETTY IMAGES ©
The large, grassy square where Malaysian independence was declared in 1957 is ringed by heritage buildings and dominated by an enormous flagpole and fluttering Malaysian flag. Come here to learn about the city's history and to admire the grand colonial architecture.
History of the Square
Back at KL's founding in the mid-19th century, this patch of land west of the Gombak river was used by the tin prospectors and other settlers to grow fruit and vegetables. In 1884, after the founding of the Selangor Club, the land was transformed into a games pitch and was called the Padang (meaning field).
For the next 70-odd years the Padang remained the green nucleus of colonial power on the Malay peninsula, a place for cricket, parades and civic cel
ebrations. It became cemented in the national consciousness at midnight on 31 August 1957, when the Union flag was lowered and the Malayan States' flag hoisted on the Padang’s 95m flagpole.
In 1989, a year after the city took over the Padang from the Royal Selangor Club, the square was renamed Dataran Merdeka (Independence Square), although it's commonly called Merdeka Square.
Heritage Buildings
Many of the colonial buildings that ring the square were designed by AC Norman, who arrived in Kuala Lumpur from England in 1883 and was appointed the government's official architect in 1890.
The architect's masterpiece is the Sultan Abdul Samad Building ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Raja; LRT Masjid Jamek) gracing the east side of the square. This glorious brick building, with Moorish domes and a 41m clock tower, is dramatically illuminated at night. Constructed as the secretariat for the colonial administration in 1897, it is named after the Sultan of Selangor at the time. It now houses the national Ministry of Information, Communications and Culture.
Norman's obsession with Indian architecture can be seen in the elegant Mogul-Islamic building on the square’s southeast corner, originally constructed for the railway works department. It now houses the excellent National Textiles Museum (Muzium Tekstil Negara; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2694 3457; www.muziumtekstilnegara.gov.my; Jln Sultan Hishamuddin; h9am-6pm; LRT Masjid Jamek). The lower floors cover the history of textiles, in particular Malaysian fabrics such as songket (silk or cotton with gold threading), and the traditional processes and machinery used in manufacturing. Gorgeous examples of clothing and fabric abound. The upper floors cover Malaysian fabrics and design motifs in greater detail, as well as items for personal adornment such as jewellery and headgear.
At the north end of Merdeka Sq is the striking former Standard Charter Bank building, built in 1891 and another Norman design. Now the Music Museum (Music Museum; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.jmm.gov.my; Jln Raja, Merdeka Sq; h9am-6pm; LRT Masjid Jamek), it has one floor of exhibits on the history and variety of traditional music from the region. Among the things you'll learn from the displays is that Orang Asli believe music can ward off evil spirits, and there's also a large display on the life of iconic Malaysian musician and film star P Ramlee.
When it came to St Mary’s Anglican Cathedral ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2692 8672; www.stmaryscathedral.org.my; Jln Raja; LRT Masjid Jamek), Norman ditched the Moorish and Mogul influences and stuck with the traditional blueprint of an English country church. Built in 1894, the Anglican cathedral has beautiful stained-glass windows and a fine pipe organ dedicated to Sir Henry Gurney, the British high commissioner to Malaya, assassinated in 1951 during the Emergency.
Built in mock Tudor style and founded in 1884, the exclusive Royal Selangor Club ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.rscweb.my; Jln Raja; LRT Masjid Jamek) remains a refuge for the KL elite. This is where the running-and-drinking club, the Hash House Harriers, kicked off in 1938. For many years women have been barred from its long bar, which has a view of the former playing fields
Sultan Abdul Samad Building | SIMONLONG/GETTY IMAGES ©
Raising the Flag
Apart from New Year’s Eve, National Day and occasional special events, such as the Colours of Malaysia parade, crowds rarely gather at Merdeka Square.
Don't miss the ceremonial flag-raising ceremony held 9.45am to 10am every Monday on the square. Around the base of the flagpole (at 102m, it's the tallest in the world) are mosaics depicting the famous scenes of independence from 1957.
Merdeka Square | FOTOVOYAGER/GETTY IMAGES ©
Top Tips
AJoin the free walking tour offered by Visit KL and you'll also gain access to the Royal Selangor Club, one of KL's most exclusive private member clubs.
AStart at the KL City Gallery ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2691 1382; www.klcitygallery.com; Merdeka Sq, 27 Jln Raja; RM5; h9am-6.30pm; LRT Masjid Jamek) to get a quick overview of the city's history and see the huge scale model of the city created by Arch Kuala Lumpur.
Mosaic portraits of all of Malaysia's prime ministers line a wall next to the 1904 Victorian Fountain ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Merdeka Sq; LRT Masjid Jamek), said to be have been built in memory of an inspector of the Selangor Military; at one time horses would have lapped water here.
Refuel with a plate of nasi lemak or some cake at ARCH Cafe ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.klcitygallery.com; KL City Gallery, 27 Jln Raja, Merdeka Sq; mains RM10-18; h9am-6.30pm; W; LRT Masjid Jamek) at the KL City Gallery.
Stop for healthy salads, Malaysian dishes and tempting desserts at the Canteen by Chef Adu on the ground floor of the National Textiles Museum.
Don't Miss/Did You Know?
AKL City Gallery
ANational Textiles Museum
ASultan Abdul Samad Building
ASt Mary's Anglican Cathedral
Practicalities
ADataran Merdeka
A MAP GOOGLE MAP
A LRT Masjid Jamek
1Sights
1Chinatown
oSri Mahamariamman TempleHINDU TEMPLE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 163 Jln Tun HS Lee; h6am-8.30pm; LRT Pasar Seni)F
This lively Hindu temple – the oldest in Malaysia – was founded in 1873. Mariamman is the South Indian mother goddess, also known as Parvati. Her shrine is at the back of the complex. On the left sits a shrine to the elephant-headed deity Ganesh, and on the right one to Lord Murugan.
During the Thaipusam festival, Lord Murugan is transported from the temple to Batu Caves on a silver chariot.
oSin Sze Si Ya TempleTEMPLE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Tun HS Lee; h7am-5pm; LRT Pasar Seni)F
Kuala Lumpur's oldest Chinese temple was built on the instructions of Kapitan Yap Ah Loy and is dedicated to Sin Sze Ya and Si Sze Ya, two Chinese immigrants instrumental in Yap's ascension to Kapitan status. Several beautiful objects decorate the temple, including two hanging carved panels, but the best feature is the almost frontier-like atmosphere. This is still an important temple for the community, much as it was in 1883 when 10,000 people turned out for opening day.
Fortune-telling sticks are provided for devotees; just rattle the pot until a stick falls out, then find the paper slip corresponding to the number on the stick. Staff will translate the fortune on the slip for RM1. On your way out, note the two old wooden sedan chairs used to carry the deity statues during religious processions.
Guandi TempleTEMPLE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Tun HS Lee; h7am-5pm; LRT Pasar Seni)F
Founded in 1886, this atmospheric temple is dedicated to Guandi, a historical Chinese general known as the Taoist god of war, but more commonly worshipped as the patron of righteous brotherhoods: he is in fact patron of both police forces and triad gangs.
The temple's high ceilings, red walls, tiled eaves and pointy gable ends give it a distinctive look that's great for photos.
Guandi Temple | ALAN COPSON/GETTY IMAGES ©
Stadium MerdekaHISTORIC BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Stadium; DMaharajalela)
Built for the declaration of independence in 1957, this open-air stadium is where Malaysia’s first prime minister, Tunku Abdul Rahman, famously punched his fist in the air seven times shouting ‘Merdeka!’ (Independence!). Other big events during its history include a boxing match between Muhammad Ali and Joe Bugner, and a concert by Michael Jackson. There are panoramic views of the city from the grandstands and a couple of evocative photographic murals in the entrance hall.
The stadium isn't open outside event times but you can take a peek through the gates and there's a decent view from the monorail train as it passes. Land around the stadium is being developed as part of the construction of the 118-storey KL118 tower (due to be completed by 2020) as well as a new MRT station.
Stadium NegaraHISTORIC BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Hang Jebat; LRT Hang Tuah, DHang Tuah)
Officially opened in 1962, this was Malaysia’s first indoor stadium and is one of many heritage buildings that have been recently given a facelift. Concert
s and events are occasionally held here. Murals in the entrance lobby depict the cultural dances of Malaysia's different ethnic groups and the country's main industries back in the 1960s. It's not officially open outside event times but between 9am and 5pm the guards will likely let you look inside.
Chan She Shu Yuen Clan Association TempleTEMPLE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %03-2078 1461; Jln Petaling; h9am-6pm; DMaharajalela)F
Opened in 1906 to serve immigrants with the surname Chan, this Cantonese-style temple is a beauty. Decorative panels of 100-year-old Shek Wan pottery adorn the facade and eaves, while side gables swirl like giant waves. Inside, an altar enshrines the three ancestors of the Chan clan. At research time the temple was closed due to an ongoing restoration project to replace the distinctive green roof tiles with grey ones in deference to the original model temple in Guangzhou, China.
Guan Yin TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jln Stadium & Jln Maharajalela; h7am-5pm; DMaharajalela)
Dedicated to the Bodhisattva of compassion, this cement temple was originally built by Hokkien Chinese in the 1890s and served as a place to say prayers for those buried in the graveyard that was once located on the hill. On the first and 15th day of the month in the Chinese calendar, a free vegetarian meal is served here.
Lonely Planet Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang Page 10
