by Andy Hall
nor Wally Cole: Cole interview, March 2013.
thirty tourists at Eielson Visitor Center: Wonder Lake logbook, July 24, 1967, entry, Denali National Park and Preserve Museum Collection, DENA26382.
temporarily cutting off road access to the park: Wonder Lake logbook, July 25, 1967, entry, Denali National Park and Preserve Museum Collection, DENA26382.
INDEX
The page numbers in this index refer to the printed version of this book. To find the corresponding locations in the text of this digital version, please use the “search” function on your e-reader. Note that not all terms may be searchable.
Air Force, U.S., 158–159, 180, 190
Alaska, European exploration of, 11
Alaska Highway, 39, 40, 51
Alaskan Natives, 9–10, 12–13, 21
Alaska Range, 10–11, 14, 16, 20, 128
Alaska Rescue Group (ARG)
Johnston-Genet-Davidson expedition rescue efforts, 97
National Park Service critique meeting participation, 190
rescue protocols, 99
Wilcox Expedition rescue arrangement, 33, 100–101
Wilson Expedition rescue efforts, 134–136, 146, 147, 173
Alpenstocks, 13, 15
Altitude sickness, 79, 83–85, 90–91, 113–117, 118, 140, 143
Anderson, Pete, 15, 87
Andrew, Alex, 21
Archdeacon’s Tower, 48, 111, 160, 170, 175, 182–183, 187, 205, 208
Aten, Arthur, 16
Athabaskan people, 9, 17
Avalanches, 20, 78
Babcock, Bill
MCA Expedition, 100–106, 127, 137–139
National Park Service critique meeting participation, 190–191
speculation about deaths of climbers, 181–182
Wilcox Expedition first group assistance, 144
Wilcox Expedition rescue efforts, 145, 147, 148, 152–154, 155, 157–158, 159, 160, 161, 163, 166–167, 173, 185
Babcock, Jeff, 101, 144, 148, 153, 159, 161, 190
Batkin, Jacques “Farine,” 22, 96, 97
Beaufort Sea, 2
Bellows, Helen, 177
Boulton, Edward, 174, 175
Brooks, Alfred, 9–10
Browne, Belmore, 15–17, 87
Browne Tower, 76, 81, 83, 129, 138
Cache Creek, 103, 167
Carlson Creek, 103
Carpe, Allen, 22
Chena River, 12, 217
Clark, Jerry
altitude sickness, 85
Camp II establishment, 60
Camp VII ascent and stay, 90
decision to stay behind first summit group, 108–109
descent from summit, 129
expedition membership, 24, 25, 32
expedition preparation, 52–53
friendship with McLaughlin, 80
mountaineering experience, 24, 42, 190
Mount Rainier training, 35–36, 37
physical characteristics, 24
radio communication, 85, 119, 121–123
road trip to Alaska, 39, 41
ski use, 60–62, 71
summit ascent, 118–126
on Wilcox’s leadership, 47
Clearwater River, 167–168
Climbing tools and gear, 13, 62–63, 77–78
Cole, Wally, 216
Colorado climbers, 32–33, 35–39. See also specific climbers
Cook, Frederick, 14–15
Cooley, Dave, 79
Coxcomb, 81, 86
Crenshaw, Charles, 174, 175
Crews, Paul, 98, 135–136, 154, 190
Davidson, Art, 95, 96, 98, 99, 190
Denali. See also Names of expeditions
atmospheric conditions, 18–19
climbing routes, 54–56
early summit ascents, 12–18
elevation, 10
fatalities, 22, 78, 96, 187
features and geology, 10–11, 18–20
female expeditions, 197
first successful summit attempt, 17–18
first summit in winter, 95–100
first woman to top, 27
first written reference to, 11
names for, 9, 11–12
snowfall, 14
storms on, 16–17, 203–213
temperature, average, 18
Washburn’s summit, 26–27
wind speed, 19–20
Denali Highway, 47, 51
Denali Pass, 48, 96, 110–111, 113, 159, 160, 174, 192, 204, 205, 208
Densmore, Frank, 11
Dickey, William, 12
Don Sheldon Amphitheater, 14
Eielson Visitor Center
as communication hub, 52
memorial service for climbers, 174
storm stranding tourists at (July–August 1967), 216
Wilcox Expedition’s check-in, 52
Eskimo, 2
Everest, Mount, 10, 26, 198
Everett, Boyd, Jr., 129
Fairbanks, 17
Farthing Horn, 17
Fathauer, Ted, 93, 150–151
Football Field, 205, 208
Frederick A. Cook Society, 15
Freezing, death from, 156–157
Gay, Ward, 136
Genet, Ray, 95, 96, 98, 99, 174, 175, 197–198
Gordon, Captain, 172
Great Icefall, 74
Griffen, Kristen, 200
Haber, Gordon, 52, 112–113, 119–125
Hackney, Chet, 101, 102, 144, 148, 154, 155, 160–163, 167
Hafferman, Bob, 216
Haglund, Don, 101, 102–103, 105
Hall, George
absence during early days of Wilcox Expedition tragedy, 133
comforting families of victims, 172, 173
critique of Washburn’s letter to Wilcox, 30–31, 53
dinner with Wilcox, 164–165
expedition rescue planning, 100
MCA honorary membership, 198–201
National Park Service career, 20–22, 133
National Park Service critique meeting participation, 189, 192–193
relationship with Wilcox Expedition rescuers, 197–198, 215–216
Wilcox Expedition rescue efforts, 147, 169, 174
Wilcox Expedition tragedy impact, 3–7
Hannan, Leo, 101, 104
Hansen, Gary
Humanitarian Climb organization, 174, 190
on Johnston-Genet-Davidson expedition rescue efforts, 97, 98
National Park Service critique meeting participation, 193
Wilcox Expedition rescue efforts, 134, 135–137, 138, 154, 158, 159, 172, 173
Hansen, Julia Butler, 133
Harper, Walter, 17–18
Harper Glacier, 14, 16, 48, 83, 87–88, 90, 91, 131, 138, 154, 161, 175, 187
Harper Icefall, 76, 139
Hartzog, George, 22, 133
Hayes, Art
CB radio communication, 52
National Park Service critique meeting participation, 189, 192
Wilcox Expedition check-in, 48
Wilcox Expedition concerns, 32–33, 100, 133
Wilcox Expedition rescue efforts, 134, 135–136, 164, 169, 173
Hill of Cracks, 67, 73, 74
Hoeman, Grace Jansen, 101, 143–144, 145, 148, 167–169, 174, 175, 197
Hoeman, Vin, 168, 174, 175, 176, 178–179, 180–181, 183–184, 190, 197
Humanitarian Climb, 174–177, 189
Iditarod Trail, 16
Ireton, John, 101, 103, 144, 148, 154–156, 160–163, 190
Janes, Hank
> background of, 43
Camp III establishment, 71
Camp VI establishment, 83
Camp VII ascent and stay, 90, 110
descent from summit, 129
expedition membership, 32
father’s arrival in Anchorage to await search party, 172
friendship with Luchterhand, 80
Mount Rainier training, 33, 35–36, 37
Muldrow Glacier crevasse field passage, 73
road trip to Alaska, 39, 40, 41, 47
stove fire, 88–89
summit ascent, 118–126
Vietnam War deferment, 72
Janes, Paul, 172, 177
Japanese expeditions, 30
Jeffery Glacier, 13
Johnston, Dave, 95, 96, 98, 99, 159
Kahiltna Glacier, 14, 22, 99, 102, 111, 174
Kahiltna Pass, 10
Kantishna mining district, 17
Kantishna River, 12
Karstens, Harry, 17–18, 88
Karstens Notch, 76
Karstens Ridge, 16, 17, 22, 48, 56, 76, 78, 81, 83, 85, 127, 131, 137, 140, 152, 165
Knik, 15–16
Knik Arm, 11
Koven, Theodore, 22
LaVoy, Merl, 16
Lewis, Jerry
altitude sickness, 85, 113, 115, 140, 143
attempt to rescue second group, 131–133
Camp I hike, 58
Camp VI after summit ascent, 117–118, 130, 140
Camp VII ascent and stay, 90
descent from summit, 167–169
life after tragedy, 197
Muldrow Glacier crevasse field passage, 68, 69–71
road trip to Alaska, 38–39
summit ascent, 110–113
summit ascent preparation, 108
Vietnam War deferment, 72
Wilson Expedition merger, 32, 37
Lewis, Steve, 32, 33
Lower Icefall, 60, 62, 69, 87, 104, 105
Luchterhand, Dennis
altitude sickness, 115
background of, 42–43
Camp II establishment, 60
Camp III establishment, 71
Camp VI establishment, 83
Camp VII ascent and stay, 90, 107, 110
descent from summit, 129
early concerns about exhibition, 36
expedition membership, 32
family’s arrival in Anchorage to await search party, 171–173
friendships with other climbers, 80
group photo, 75
identification of dead body as, 172
Mount Rainier training, 33
road trip to Alaska, 39–40, 41, 51–52
stove fire, 88–89
summit ascent, 118–126
summit ascent planning, 86
Luchterhand, Elmer, 171–173, 178–179, 183–184
Luchterhand, Erika, 171
McGonagall, Charlie, 87
McGonagall Pass, 17, 40–41, 48, 57, 58, 62, 74–75, 90, 103–104, 105
McKinley, Mount. See Denali
McKinley River, 102, 168
McLaughlin, Mark
background of, 41–42
Camp VI establishment, 83
Camp VII ascent and stay, 90, 110
death of, 177
descent from summit, 129
expedition membership, 24, 32
friendship with Clark, 80
Mount Rainier training, 33
Muldrow Glacier crevasse field passage, 68, 70–71
radio contact, 124–125
road trip to Alaska, 40, 41
ski use, 60–62, 71
summit ascent, 118–126
summit ascent planning, 86
Vietnam War deferment, 72
McLaughlin, S. P., 177
McMahan, Dave, 186, 187
Mercer, Baxter, 56–57
Mercer, Berle, 40–41, 54, 56–57
Mercer, Kirk, 56–57
Merry, Wayne
on ARG’s rescue protocol, 99–100
on author’s childhood encounter with mystery climber, 216
National Park Service critique meeting participation, 189, 190
radio contact, 112
speculation about deaths of climbers, 186
Wilcox Expedition rescue efforts, 135, 145, 146, 147, 163–164, 191–192
on Wilcox Expedition’s preparation, 53–54
on Wilcox’s leadership, 37
Miller, Daryl, 212–213
Millett, Marion, 27
Minchumina, Lake, 11
Mountaineering
climbing tools, 13, 62–63, 77–78
as rarity in 1960s, 6
trail marking, 110, 111
weight loss, 80
Mountaineering Club of Alaska (MCA), Hall’s honorary membership in, 198–201
Mountaineering Club of Alaska (MCA) Expedition
description of events and conditions during, 102–106, 127, 131, 137–139
Humanitarian Climb participation, 190
training, 100–102
Wilcox Expedition first group assistance, 143–144
Wilcox Expedition rescue efforts, 147–148, 151–163, 165–169, 173
Mount McKinley National Park, 3, 22, 25, 48, 100, 134
Muldrow Glacier, 15, 16, 17, 22, 24, 28, 40, 48, 54–56, 58–59, 67–71, 76, 102, 127
Muldrow River, 14
National Geographic, 26
National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), 149–151, 214
National Park Service
climbing rangers on mountain during 1997 storm, 212
critique meeting, 189–193
flight rules, 28
Hall’s career with, 20–22, 133
rescue support, 134
Wilcox Expedition application approval, 32–33
and Wilcox Expedition-Colorado team merger, 37
National Weather Service, 93
Nelson, Jim, 214
The New York Sun, 11–12
Nienhueser, Gayle
on finding dead climber, 156, 167
on MCA Expedition events and conditions, 104
MCA Expedition membership, 101
Wilcox Expedition first group assistance, 144
Wilcox Expedition rescue efforts, 148, 152–153, 154, 159, 160, 161, 166
on Wilcox-Schiff argument over rescue call, 146
Nisqually Glacier, 36
Northwest Buttress, 15
Nosek, Frank, 88–89, 93–94, 99–100, 146, 147, 190, 199, 200
Okonek, Brian, 187
Orient Express, 208, 214
Papineau, John, 149–151
Parker, Herschel, 15, 16
Parker Pass, 83, 152
Park Road, 51, 216
Peabody, Willy, 204–205, 208, 210, 211, 213, 214
Perkins, George, 52
Peters Basin, 14
Peters Glacier, 13, 14
Pig Hill, 205
Prusik hitches, 36
Radio communication, 52
Rainier, Mount, 25, 33, 35–37
Reichardt, Louis, 128, 130–131, 137, 141–142, 149
Rescue Coordination Center (RCC), 97, 98, 99, 134, 146, 158, 172
Riley Creek, 216
Russell, Jane, 45–46
Russell, John
altitude sickness, 79, 85, 113, 114, 116
background of, 45–46
bamboo summit pole found by MCA expedition search party, 155
Browne Tower leg lead, 81
Camp II establishment, 60
; Camp III establishment, 71
Camp V establishment, 76–77
Camp VII ascent and stay, 110, 113–115
conflicts with expedition members, 60–63
criticism of Schiff, 78–80
expedition membership, 32
flag carried by and found by Humanitarian Climb expedition, 113–114, 174–175, 184–185
group photo, 75–76
July 4 firecracker, 75
missing from second group’s summit ascent, 126, 129, 184
Mount Rainier training, 33, 36
personality of, 80
radio contact, 91–92
road trip to Alaska, 39, 40
speculation about death of, 184–186
stove fire, 74, 88–89
summit ascent plans, 86
Vietnam War deferment, 72
Russians, 11
Ruth Gap, 10
Ruth Glacier, 14
Rutter, John, 199–200
Sassara, Chuck, 147
Schiff, Anshel
altitude sickness, 84, 85, 115, 116, 143
attempt to rescue second group, 131–133
background of, 44–45
Camp VI after summit ascent, 117–118, 129–130, 139
Camp VII ascent and stay, 110, 113–115
descent from summit, 117–118, 143–144
expedition membership, 32
life after tragedy, 197
mountaineering experience, 69
Muldrow Glacier crevasse field passage, 73
physical condition, 68–69, 74, 78–79
road trip to Alaska, 39
summit ascent plans, 86
Schlichter, Paul
attempt to rescue second group, 131–133
Camp I hike, 57–58
Camp VI after summit ascent, 117–118, 130, 140, 143
Camp VI establishment, 83
Camp VII ascent and stay, 90
conflict with expedition members, 64, 65
descent from summit, 117–118, 143–144, 167–169
life after tragedy, 196–197
Muldrow Glacier crevasse field passage, 73
road trip to Alaska, 38–39
second thoughts about climb, 47
on Snyder’s decision to stay behind, 109
summit ascent, 110–113
summit ascent preparation, 108
Vietnam War deferment, 72
Wilson Expedition merger, 32, 37
Seiler, Barney, 101, 102–103, 105
Sfraga, Mike, 49, 196
Sheldon, Don
death of, 198
Johnston-Genet-Davidson expedition rescue efforts, 97–99
National Park Service critique meeting participation, 190–191, 193
Wilcox Expedition rescue efforts, 135, 136, 137, 138, 147, 148, 152–153, 154, 160, 174, 175, 179–180
Sheldon, Robert, 97–98
Sitka National Historic Park, 20–21
